UKC

Beaten Up: a bumbly mantel list

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 Offwidth 07 Nov 2017
Inspited by Steve Halfpenny I though a list of easier but still infamous mantels upto f6A+/V3 was worth collecting. I'd noted a few for eventual inclusion on our Offwidth pages but thought I'd open a thread for others' favourites ... Having worked problems that seemed impossibke for the grade like Nose Mantel on The Kidney, realisation and success felt so sweet. Nose Mantel (f6A)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=672648&v=1

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1975
 Chris the Tall 07 Nov 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

When does a rockover become a mantel ? Todys Wall? Nuke the Midges ?

The only easy mantels that I can think of generally come a the top of routes

Remember trying to coax a mate at the top of Gingerbread slab

Me "It's just like getting out of a swimming pool"
Him "I always use the steps"
 Fredt 07 Nov 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

My favourite mantel was about halfway up Jitter Face on Stanage, easy but unprotected.

I also recall one after the crux reach on Queersville, but can't recall if it was a true mantel.

 Dave Garnett 07 Nov 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

The top of this one's interesting, but safe:

Devotoed (VS 5a)
 Jon Greengrass 07 Nov 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

I have a clear memory of mantelling onto a large loose block about half way up a route at Stanage, possibly Queersville?

the Mantel shelf top out on The Right Unconquerable is the crux for many.

 Danm79 07 Nov 2017
In reply to Dave Garnett:

> The top of this one's interesting, but safe:

> Devotoed (VS 5a)

Out of interest, is the top out the 5a move on this one?
Removed User 07 Nov 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

Where's Bob's Bastard at Caley?
 Dave Garnett 07 Nov 2017
In reply to Danm79:

> Out of interest, is the top out the 5a move on this one?

Yes. If you are short it's not trivial because even stood in the break it's horribly sloping and wall is slightly overhanging...

Getting there is pretty straightforward (and short) and the gear is good.
 Danm79 07 Nov 2017
In reply to Dave Garnett:

Cheers Dave. Yes, I did do it a while ago - it remains the highest grade I've done, but thought I may have cheated getting into the crack using a foothold behind. (I didn't know if that was the crux or the top out)

Anyway, that was what I wanted to hear - thank you
 steveriley 07 Nov 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

Bouldering, yes? Greener Mantel (f6A), Roaches Lower Tier boulder. Tiny but brill two move problem
 johnjohn 07 Nov 2017
In reply to Removed User:

Bob's Bastard 1 (f5+)

what a bastard! Not necessarily a mantel though
 crimpsoplenty 07 Nov 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

Grapple with flake f5+ at burbage south valley boulders (sorry I don't know how to link it)
 Iain Thow 07 Nov 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

The Mantelshelf and The Shelf at Scugdale surely qualify.

The Mantelshelf (S 4c)
The Shelf (E2 5c)
 Dave Garnett 07 Nov 2017
In reply to steveriley:

> Bouldering, yes? Greener Mantel (f6A), Roaches Lower Tier boulder. Tiny but brill two move problem

More than two moves if you do the full traverse, and then ideally reverse the entire problem too!
 steveriley 07 Nov 2017
In reply to Dave Garnett:

Liking the sound of the unmantel, reverse traverse option. Sounds daft
 petegunn 07 Nov 2017
In reply to Offwidth:
Another good roof with tricky mantels to finish

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=22991
Post edited at 23:31
 Jon Stewart 07 Nov 2017
In reply to petegunn:
Ooh ta! Didn't know about that place. Any other Cumbrian bouldering gems (or just OK crags) that are unknown to the hoi polloi?
Post edited at 00:13
OP Offwidth 08 Nov 2017
In reply to all:

Thanks everyone., I'd have preferred a few more boulder problems (especially classic brutal stuff not on gritstone) as I was going to try and construct a bouldering list to fit under Steve's list, but I guess the routes might be useful as well.
In reply to kevin stephens:

I fell off right there when i was 13, it was right at my limit at the time and i was totally knackered and didn't have the strength left in my arms to push.
 MeMeMe 08 Nov 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

Also the Shelf at Crookrise -
The Shelf (E2 5b)

Bit of a soft touch for E2, well worth doing!
 Bulls Crack 08 Nov 2017
In reply to MeMeMe:

Carnage (E2 5b) has a famous 'mantel'
 Iain Thow 08 Nov 2017
In reply to MeMeMe:

Well over a decade since i last got up an E2, so even a soft touch one is probably beyond me. Like the ye olde pic of Mr Fawcett though.
 petegunn 08 Nov 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Hey Jon
Have you been up to Jopplety How near Watendlath?
A standout Lakeland classic

Jopplety How

If your gonna have a visit to Coombs Cave there's another horrendous mantel problem on the split boulder at Armathwaite

https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=195147

Post edited at 12:21
 Lemony 08 Nov 2017
In reply to Offwidth:
Back Bowden
Mantel Misery (f6A) - proper mantel onto slopey arete thing
Sharp Arete (f6A+) - easy arete into bellyflop and grovel
Mantel Masterclass (f6C) - bit harder and right next door
 petegunn 09 Nov 2017
In reply to Lemony:
Also quite a few at shaftoe,
many of the roof problems finish with tricky rounded mantels. I.e The Neb Roof 6c

Sloper Masterclass (f5+)

Hound Dog (f7A+)

Killer Queen (f6C)

Suprising Solution (f7A)
Post edited at 12:11
OP Offwidth 09 Nov 2017
In reply to petegunn and Lemony:

Cheers. Keep them coming.....
 Lemony 09 Nov 2017
In reply to petegunn:
Oh,Botterill's Mantel (f5+) at Queens and Mantel Madness (f5+), Smooth Operator (f6C+) (more like 6A+) and the other easy ones on that wall at Kyloe Out.
 Jon Stewart 09 Nov 2017
In reply to petegunn:

Jopplety How

Legend! I'd seen the Secret Garden on Lakesbloc years ago and knew it was somewhere on the hill above Borrowdale but had no idea where. Got to give it a go, looks beautiful. And what a setting. Great name for a crag too!
 petegunn 09 Nov 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

Must be some good ones on the Moors
Heres some to add to:

Skin Graft (f5+)
Bump and Grind (f5)
Peeping Tom (f7C)
No match for climb id:260584No match for climb id:472842
 Graeme Hammond 09 Nov 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

Sick (f6B) if you mantle it.
 Tom Last 09 Nov 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

A good one from the southwest.

Mentalshelf (VS 4c)
 Jon Stewart 09 Nov 2017
In reply to Graeme Hammond:
> Sick (f6B) if you mantle it.

I suggested that for the hard list
Post edited at 22:17
OP Offwidth 10 Nov 2017
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Like Jon I'm not convinced that's a f6A mantel but it will obviously be on any list.
 kingholmesy 10 Nov 2017
In reply to Offwidth:
Skin Graft at Hound Tor is a cracker. Gradewise it's definitive "Plymouth 5c".

Skin Graft (f5+)#overview


Edit - just spotted this has already been mentioned, but I'll second it as a recommendation.
Post edited at 21:44
In reply to Offwidth:

Nice this is like the introductory course haha
great stuff ill get on them too
In reply to Chris the Tall:

good point, its a very grey area

haha look how cool we are debating mantels
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