UKC

FRI NIGHT VID: Shauna Coxsey and Pete Whittaker go crack climbing

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 UKC News 10 Nov 2017
Shauna and Pete go Crack Climbing, 3 kbShauna Coxsey had a remarkable season on the World Cup circuit. Obviously, you would be excused for thinking that Shauna does not have any weaknesses, although it is not quite true...

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1
xyz 10 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC News:

LOVED IT !!

Best climbing film I've seen for ages, fun, comedic, no daft music, no egos just brilliant
1
 Alex Riley 10 Nov 2017
In reply to xyz:

Like Kfc?

....no
1
 John Ww 10 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Top stuff, well done to all involved

JW
 skellymax 10 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Fan-tas-tic, really enjoyed this, more of these nice young folks please, also - did I detect some chemistry.
9
 mal_meech 10 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Always love penalty slack...
1
 fuzzysheep01 10 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Absolute class. Great choice.
1
 AP Melbourne 10 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Pure class! Can't wait for part 2.
1
 Xavierpercy 10 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC News:
Is Shauna contractually obliged to wear something bearing the name of that disgusting energy drink every time she is in the media?


30
 TobyA 10 Nov 2017
In reply to Xavierpercy:

> Is Shauna contractually obliged to wear something bearing the name of that disgusting energy drink every time she is in the media?

That's sort of the whole point of sponsorship isn't it? It's like Gadd is never without his Red Bull helmet.
1
 planetmarshall 10 Nov 2017
In reply to Xavierpercy:
> Is Shauna contractually obliged to wear something bearing the name of that disgusting energy drink every time she is in the media?

Well, obviously. Show me an example where Randall is without a Rab t-shirt, Megos without a Patagonia cap, Bullock without an ME t-shirt and Boswell/MacInnes without a Suunto watch. I can't say it's something I'm personally offended by.
Post edited at 22:48
1
 Robert Durran 10 Nov 2017
In reply to planetmarshall:
> Well, obviously. Show me an example where Randall is without a Rab t-shirt, Megos without a Patagonia cap, Bullock without an ME t-shirt and Boswell/MacInnes without a Suunto watch.

Yes, but none of those are disgusting "energy" drinks. They're all things that people might wear on merit.

Cool film though.
Post edited at 22:59
20
 Rob Parsons 10 Nov 2017
In reply to TobyA:

I'm not sure what 'the whole point of sponsorship' is.

I get that the person wearing the hat (or whatever) is a willing participant in the advertising, and that they're getting paid for doing so. But are they personally endorsing whatever it is they're advertising?

There was a bit of a shitfight here recently about a young female climber being sponsored by Coke. Is Red Bull any better? Who's the 'Official UK Arbiter' regarding which brands are acceptable, and which are not?
Post edited at 23:06
8
 alan moore 11 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Excellent.
Although I think she pretended to find The Crank hard just to make us feel better...
 Si dH 11 Nov 2017
In reply to Rob Parsons:

There is no UK arbiter. It is up to the participant. If I was Shauna I would definitely take the money. And while Red Bull isn't exactly a health drink, well done to them for being willing to put some cash into sponsorship of minority sports.

Is it just me or has there been no snow in the peak recently? I assume this video is from a couple of years ago?
3
 Wft 11 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Very good

 TobyA 11 Nov 2017
In reply to Robert Durran:
I thought Megos was surgically attached to a Red Bull cap these days like Ms Coxey? And you're going soft in your dotage Robert. No mention of the fact that we have to refer to Mr Whittaker as Your Excellency these days, as after all he is a Patagonia ambassador...
Post edited at 08:45
1
 Robert Durran 11 Nov 2017
In reply to TobyA:
> I thought Megos was surgically attached to a Red Bull cap these days like Ms Coxey? And you're going soft in your dotage Robert. No mention of the fact that we have to refer to Mr Whittaker as Your Excellency these days, as after all he is a Patagonia ambassador...

Ok, I'll mention it then: Patagonia ambassador, Red Bull athlete....... both absurd terms. But at least I think we can agree that they are both excellent climbers; great little film Your Excellencies.
Post edited at 09:17
 Mick Ward 11 Nov 2017
In reply to alan moore:

> Although I think she pretended to find The Crank hard just to make us feel better...

I think, overall, she made us all feel a bit better with her good-humoured approach. Much appreciated.

Mick

 Wimlands 11 Nov 2017
In reply to Robert Durran:
Loved it.
I think Red Bull and Patagonia are lucky to have them...

Pete made it seem so easy didn't he.
In reply to UKC News:

Lovely, lovely film. Entertaining, informative, encouraging.
 deepsoup 11 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC News:
What a fantastic little film!

It's quite inspiring. I can't wait to get down to the Works and have a go at the offwidth there...
Oh.
 Greasy Prusiks 11 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Great little video.

Perfectly illustrates how diverse climbing is. You can literally be world champion in one discipline but as soon as you try something different you've got a whole new set of skills to learn.
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

Yes, she certainly did a good job of looking like a complete beginner on the VS hand-jamming crack!
In reply to John Stainforth:

That's 'The Crank', John, (I think)! VS 5a. ... I once had 'a rather famous mountaineer' point me at it – I suspect, in retrospect, that he was wanting to burn me off – and I got up it in good style and then had the rather dubious pleasure of him needing a very tight rope when it came to him seconding it ...
 planetmarshall 11 Nov 2017
In reply to TobyA:

> I thought Megos was surgically attached to a Red Bull cap these days like Ms Coxey?

Somewhat amusingly, Alex is wearing his Red Bull cap in his Patagonia mugshot. Maybe he just likes it?

http://www.patagonia.com/ambassadors/climbing/alexander-megos.html
1
 Ollie Keynes 11 Nov 2017
In reply to Robert Durran:

I love the unrealised & ironic implication in all this wearing of redbull. Ie. all that logo promotion but for some reason you never see anyone actually drinking the stuff. Why is that?? It's almost like the athletes are trying to tell the rest of us something
 TobyA 11 Nov 2017
In reply to planetmarshall:

Presumably he's only an ambassador from the neck down, his head belongs purely to the sticky energy drink people. I remember Gadd claiming he always takes some ice climbing with him in some of his writing, but I don't think I've ever actually seen Shauna or Alex actually drinking the stuff. Funny if their sponsorship deal actually excludes them needing to consume it!
Lusk 11 Nov 2017
In reply to Ollie Keynes:

If some corporation is paying for your 365 day a year holiday and all you have to do is wear an item of clothing with their name on it, I doubt there would be many who would resist. You're not obliged to consume the shit that they're paying you to advertise.
1
 Ollie Keynes 11 Nov 2017
In reply to Lusk:

I would think that's the point of sponsorship isn't it.. to promote the product your associated with? Because if you don't actually agree with a product then why would you want to promote it & why would that product want to be associated with you
 ianstevens 11 Nov 2017
In reply to Ollie Keynes:

Because, as Lusk said, you get to do what you like 365 days a year.
 Michael Gordon 12 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Great, fun wee film. Though I do wonder if she's become overly adept at upside down climbing? As long as the crack is horizontal she'll be OK...
 Kiell 12 Nov 2017
In reply to Ollie Keynes:

Very few Red Bull athletes actually drink the stuff. There are plenty of rumours floating about that even when they are filmed taking a sip, it has been swapped out for water.
 Mr Lopez 12 Nov 2017
In reply to Ollie Keynes:

> I would think that's the point of sponsorship isn't it.. to promote the product your associated with? Because if you don't actually agree with a product then why would you want to promote it & why would that product want to be associated with you

Luckily there's always one or 2 sponsors we can happily get behind and promote honestly while being hands on https://www.menshealth.com/guy-wisdom/pornhub-sponsored-extreme-sports-pro-...
 Wimlands 12 Nov 2017
In reply to Kiell:
It has its uses...I completely bonked on my cycle commute home one night, simply hadn't eaten enough...Made it to a corner shop and a can of the stuff got me home.

 Mark Collins 13 Nov 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Anyway, thanks very much for this. Remember seeing it a BMC Kendal Breakfast Club last year I think and was wondering when I might see it again.
 john arran 13 Nov 2017
In reply to Mark Collins:

Ah, that explains why I've seen this before but for most people here it seemed to be new, although in my case I now remember it was at SHAFF that I saw it.
 Mark Collins 13 Nov 2017
In reply to all:

Anyone know what the upside down boulder problem at the end is please? Fancy a half-hearted go at that next time I'm down there.
 deepsoup 13 Nov 2017
In reply to john arran:
It popped up online briefly around the same time, but then it was yanked again. Not sure why.
I just missed it then, nice to finally see it now - it's lovely.
 Graeme Hammond 13 Nov 2017
In reply to Mark Collins:

I think it is

Melvyn Bragg (f7B)

Personally loved the credit, "thanks to wild country for supplying Pete Whittaker"
 Mark Collins 13 Nov 2017
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

> I think it is


Thanks for replying Graeme, I originally thought that as well, but have since concluded that they're simply not having to try hard enough for that to be correct. I know these guys are at the top but even so.
 Alan Blakeman 13 Nov 2017
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Methinks it has to have been Bovril boy Bonnington John?
In reply to UKC News:

"See I'm a widegirl!".

*silence...*

Classic xD
In reply to Alan Blakeman:

If you're talking about my twin brother, John, which I was, I have no knowledge that he has ever been called that
 Mark Collins 15 Nov 2017
In reply to Mark Collins:

> Anyone know what the upside down boulder problem at the end is please? Fancy a half-hearted go at that next time I'm down there.

Come on, any other ideas apart from MB? I don't want to have to go ask UKB.
 Reach>Talent 15 Nov 2017
In reply to Mark Collins:
Definitely looks like Melvyn Bragg although possibly using some easier beta, all my failed attempts I was facing the other way for the top section
 Michael Gordon 15 Nov 2017
In reply to Mark Collins:

Yes it's Melvyn Bragg (V8)
 Mark Collins 15 Nov 2017
In reply to All:

Apologies for my doubts surrounding Melvyn Bragg, now accepted as fact

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