/ Classic Northumberland Problems

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Jon Stewart - on 10 Nov 2017
Looking for any ideas for must-do problems in Northumberland. I've got the guidebook, but it's pretty old school and doesn't do a great job highlighting highlights.

The stuff I go for is up-problems, without sit-starts (although Sloper Masterclass was great), climbing aesthetic bits of rock by a sensible line. Like an arete, or a wall, or whatever. Minature climbs, like the sort of stuff you get at Slipstones. Love highballs but obviously prefer good landings!

I won't get up anything harder than 7a, but feel free to add classics all the way up the grades - could make a ticklist.

Cheers,
Jon


petegunn on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Shaftoe:
The Neb Roof
Incipient Crack
Buford T Justice
The Long Reach
Sloper Masterclass
Magic Fluting ( mini route/highball)

Rothley:
Hanging Arete
Faint Edge

Queens Crag:
The Magician's Nephew E1 or 6b+
Rabbit Stone Crack HVS 5b or 6a

Hepburn:
Photo Opportunity Arete
Fine Arete
Another Flake
A Northern Soul, Old E5 now 7a+ superb

Back Bowden:
Mantel Masterclass

Loads of quality short routes at Bowden
Russet Groove VD
Castle Crack VD
Lorraine VS
Scorpion VS
Canada Crack HVS
Child's Play E1 or 6b

Callerhues is good for highballs/soloing and if soloing at E1/2 East Woodburn is good value at the grade being 10m high.

Enjoy : )
Post edited at 17:36
Jon Stewart - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to petegunn:

A good man. And thorough.



(sorry if you think this reply is weird. It's a quote from my favourite film...)
Unemployment. Rickets. Stereotyping. Not quite being Scotland.

Dave Kerr - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> A good man. And thorough.

> (sorry if you think this reply is weird. It's a quote from my favourite film...)

Obviously you're not a golfer.
Fergal - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Shaftoe:-
Font classic (font boulder) aesthetic gem.
Classic arete (exquisite)
Magic flute +1

Rothley:-
Yorkshire 8a ( beautiful 26 move lip traverse on slopers) perpetual motion.

Doveholes:-
Fungatatus Ejaculatus (gain the smooth groove) best font 6c you will do, have done this at least once a year for last ten years it is that good!

Ravenshuegh:-
Little idi (font 6a, E1 in old money) bit of a walk in for some perfectly formed micro routes, in fact the left wall is a little similiar to Slipstones. Near by Dulcinea 7a+ is a perfectly formed proud line (old stell crag)

Back Bowden:-
Hazelrig wall direct & pinup are both great highballs/solos.

Got to admit i love a list, well enough to be getting on with.
Post edited at 19:46
Jon Stewart - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to The Pulsing Motorik of Neu!:

> Unemployment. Rickets. Stereotyping. Not quite being Scotland.

Ha. I couldn't fine those on the logbook database...
Jon Stewart - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to Fergal:

Great stuff, thanks. Will check out all the south facing stuff over the winter hopefully. The chillier stuff will be good for those days/weeks/months over the summer when everything over here on the west is piss wet.
mark20 - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:

For some nice highballs I think you'd enjoy at Callerhues, though probably not the best bet mid-winter. That perfect balance of good landing, quite high, not too hard but hard enough, and a big boggy walk in to remind you it isn't "just bouldering", top stuff
Bulls Crack - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Y front Bowden

Y-Front (f6A+)#photos
Jon Stewart - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to mark20:

Next on the list is Rothley as it's an easy enough day trip, as with Callerhues. The former sounds friendly, but Callerhues has got a bit of reputation. Will make sure I've got some mates with decent pads for that one, but it does sound good.
JLS on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to petegunn:

>"A Northern Soul, Old E5 now 7a+ superb"

County bouldering grades are weird sometimes.
I can't get my head around how this can be any harder than 6C on the basis that anything harder than 6A in Fontainbleu is a real struggle for me.

OP: You should take the 7A+ grade with a pinch of salt and get on this. It really is very good.

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