/ Arapiles for mortals

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Patrick Clissold - on 11 Nov 2017
Finally got out the Arapiles, one of the best trad crags I've been to. Here is a quick snippet of what is out there, and this is at the S-VS grades. Go as high or as low as you like! Never went lower than a 2 star route.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mWh_vfy-NKo&t=1s
jon on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to Patrick Clissold:

Well done!
Rog Wilko on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to Patrick Clissold:

Only "one of the best trad crags I've been to"? Tell me the ones which come anywhere near for easier trad and I'll be booking my ticket.
Brings back some good memories for me. Hoping to be there again in 2018 for a sixth trip. Bet you'll be back too!
JJ Krammerhead III - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to Patrick Clissold:

Have been once but when we got there the infection on my leg had grown to grapefruit sized abscess (whcih nearly cost me the leg). Managed to hop up one route whcih has none of the best easy routes I've ever climbed. Came away thinking it must be the world's best crag!
Fraser on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to Patrick Clissold:

Good effort - looks decent.
Rog Wilko on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to Patrick Clissold:

> Never went lower than a 2 star route.

Most of the 1* routes would be 3* classics in UK.
Andy Hemsted - on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to Patrick Clissold:

Definitely top of the trad crags that I've enjoyed over the years. The camp atmosphere was superb, the middle-grade routes were brilliant, and my wife is still asking me to find her more outings as pleasurable as Tiptoe Ridge.

Sixth visit, Rog ? I'm only a tiny bit envious.....
Rog Wilko on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to Andy Hemsted:

Hi Andy,
Still haven't done Tiptoe Ridge! I'm trying to pretend it's still too easy for me.
Arapiles is the consolation prize for losing a daughter to Oz. Sixty routes so far. Will we make three figures? Rather doubt it.
John Clinch (Ampthill) - on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to Patrick Clissold:

Yep I think its the best crag that I've been to.....
Tobes on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to Patrick Clissold:

Just another big + 1 from me for this place!

Have definitely been 3 times (possibly 4!?) I can’t remember.

Wintered there once (how very withnail and I) when there were only 4 or 5 of us in the pines. That season open fires were allowed on camp which made for beautiful evenings under the stars.

Luckily about a third of my family live in Oz so I think another visit is on the cards.

Thanks for reminding me how awesome this place is again!
Patrick Clissold - on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to Patrick Clissold:

Obviously it's nothing compared to the Ogwen valley! I now live in New Zealand and the joke down here is that the Arapiles is NZ's best crag.
turtlespit - on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to Rog Wilko:

> Most of the 1* routes would be 3* classics in UK.

The Arapiles Selected Climbs guidebook has a funny line similar to this in one of the route descriptions. Something like "This route would get 3 stars on grit, but at Arapiles it gets none".

Classic Aussie humour.
Martin Hore - on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to Patrick Clissold:

> Obviously it's nothing compared to the Ogwen valley! I now live in New Zealand and the joke down here is that the Arapiles is NZ's best crag.

Well, it's certainly the best crag on the "West Island".
Rog Wilko on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to Martin Hore:

Puts me in mind of the Tasmanians who often refer to the rest of Australia as North Island.
Rog Wilko on 15 Nov 2017
In reply to Rog Wilko:

This thread got me thinking about what are my most memorable routes at Arapiles. I thought I'd allow myself 6. Here they are in grade order:
Beau Geste (9)
The Bard (12)
Muldoon (13)
Lamplighter (14)
Watchtower Crack (16)
Skink (18)

Maybe this has the makings of a ticklist such as 20 best Arapiles routes below grade 20. Sure I could suggest some more and they wouldn't all be 3*.
mchardski - on 05:10 Thu
In reply to Patrick Clissold:

Thx for nice vid. Hopefully it's not rude to hijack this thread. Am considering trying to integrate an Arapalis trip into a (possible) ski trip in NZ in 2018 and have a couple uncertainties.

1. Would I be ok with my single 50m rope? I have 2x60m halfs but I'd never be able to take them due to luggage considerations. Any other specific gear advice?
2. What do folk think for finding climbing partners? Ive read its quite social and good for that. Facebook groups or old fashioned interpersonal interactions?
Thanks a lot.
climber34neil - on 06:31 Thu
In reply to Rog Wilko:

I would add to that list
Agamemnon
Surface to air
D minor
Thor
Could go on and on , so many good routes.
Tobes on 08:14 Thu
In reply to mchardski:


> 1. Would I be ok with my single 50m rope? I have 2x60m halfs but I'd never be able to take them due to luggage considerations. Any other specific gear advice?

Yeah probably, a lot of gear on most routes so with the odd extender drag shouldn’t be an issue. Most multi pitch routes have walk offs so abbing can be avoided, however...see point 2

> 2. What do folk think for finding climbing partners? Ive read its quite social and good for that. Facebook groups or old fashioned interpersonal interactions?

Easy, arrive at pines, put tent up, go for a wander and get chatting to folk. Likely to find many partners. I’m still friends with folk I met and climbed with from years back. With this in mind, it’s likely you’ll meet folk who have ropes, gear etc so shouldn’t need much extra.

Such a great place!

Damo on 08:16 Thu
In reply to mchardski:

1. Generally you'd be fine. Depends on the routes you do. Many of the easier climbs you can walk off the top and down gullies etc, so raps are not always necessary, though there are some routes you need to rap off (on the Pharos etc).

2. It's pretty easy to find partners at/for Araps compared to most crags in Australia, especially if you're camping there. But other than Facebook groups, also try http://www.chockstone.org/
mchardski - on 11:31 Fri
In reply to Damo:
Tobes and Damo; Thanks for that, sounds like it could be on (if I make it to NZ).

Post edited at 11:38
RawPowa! - on 05:35 Sat
In reply to mchardski:

You'll have no problems finding partners except maybe in June, although sometimes it pays not to be too fussy A 60 metre is definitely better, there are a few climbs listed on this thread that need a 60 metre to rap off, although there is usually a longer walk off and most people you'll meet will have a 60 metre rope anyway so I wouldn't worry too much about it.

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