/ Unusual moves on real climbs

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deacondeacon - on 11 Nov 2017

After the two threads discussing if the new-school style bouldering problems are 'real' climbing, whatever that is, let's have a thread on routes that have unusual moves.
Baws crawl with its feet first shuffle stands out as a goodun.
Wings of unreason with the dyno.
That boulder problem at The Roaches (might be 'Mushin' but someone correct me if I'm wrong) where the original beta used a double toe hook traverse.
Edit- remembered it's called Thud.

Grand Design at Stanage Plantation- padding up a wall with a run up, then a bellyflop mantle.
Big Air- Plantation again where you've got to jump over a 12 foot void to a single perfect pocket on a blank wall (then top out).
I definitely did a dyno at Almscliffe that had a running jump but have never found it again in any guidebook.

There must be loads of these unusual routes all over so let's here them
Post edited at 08:31
HeMa on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

Feet first toehooking really isn’t that uncommon on harder roof problems or roof to lip traverse things.

A tad peculiar move is the so called ninja kick to gain more momentum on dynos. E.g demonstrated here. https://www.vimeo.com/8374073
TobyA on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

I did a Scottish winter route back in the 90s where I heel hooked before M routes made it fashionable!
Bulls Crack - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

Wuthering's move out of the bridge is unusual I'd say.
nokishatov - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:
There's the run and jump start (that's how I do it anyway) the boulder problem Sean's Slab aka Myles Slab aka Directissima on the Mole at Wimberry, don't miss the single left foot hold, your face will be cheese grated!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=217050
Post edited at 08:56
Sam Beaton on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

Crease Direct - Route (f6A+) is still probably my favourite boulder problem, and I wouldn't have had a clue how to do it without the photo in the 1989 guide
Mick Ward - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to Sam Beaton:

Agree - a lovely little problem. Grovelled up it long before the advent of the '89 guide (yes, illuminating photo) only to be mercilessly burnt off by a mate renowned more for his drinking than his climbing. Fag in mouth. EBs like carpet slippers. Cruised it like it was a Diff. All he needed was a flat cap to complete the Whillensian image.

Still, the whole point of going up to Yorkshire was to get burned off by the locals.

Happy days.

Mick
petegunn on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

This one is in keeping with the indoor action
Read the route description!

It used to be the Direct start to Verbal Abuse and given the trad grade of E2 7b!


Lupino Lane (f8A)
Steve Perry - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

Getting onto the block and then the slab.

Tody's Wall (HVS 5a)
Sam Beaton on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to Mick Ward:

Have you done Enigma (E1 5b)? Very similar move but much higher up!
Sam Beaton on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

The Corner (HVS 5b) has fantastic full body bridging if you're a short arse like me
HeMa on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

Here’s a nice feet first problem at a mellow grade.

And indeed, you and climb it with non feet first, but the grade ain’t 6A.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmy9WgWIFcA
Iain Thow - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

Surprised nobody has mentioned the "Fall over and grab the hold on the other side of the zawn" move at the start of Kinky Boots at Baggy Point. Thoroughly scary if you're short. As for heel hooks, Tower Ridge on Beinn Lair might be the only Diff with one. And Pingers at Scugdale surely has to be the only VS with a one finger pull up.
deacondeacon - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

I had that Kinky Boots one in my head but couldn't think of the name
ian Ll-J - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

A cool jump for a rusty ladder in Twll Mawr...

Black Holes and Revelations - The Wobbly Ladder Pitch (6b)

Quite a few unusual moves on slate
Blue Straggler - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

my answer to this is "everything I do on rock"
tripehound - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

Coe Coenut on Coe Crag in Northumberland.
Climb up to the overhang, and work round so you are lieing on your back on a narrow ledge on the edge of the overhang with your feet into the crag and your head at the edge of the overhang. Then stick a jam in above the overhang and pull round so you are standing vertical above the overhang. All very weird but fun.
It may not be doable now due to vegetation and lichen which is a shame, as it was always memorable.
mountain.martin - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

The bit on stalagasurus on tonsai. Where you find yourself looking at a overhanging and seemingly blank wall, then realise that there is a stalagtite hanging down behind you that you can bridge out to and continue your upward journey. There is a similar move on the 4 pitch humimality on the same wall. Both wild climbs for routes in the low 6's.
Mick Ward - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to Sam Beaton:

> Have you done Enigma (E1 5b)? Very similar move but much higher up!

Nope, pretty sure not. Would surely have remembered.

Yorkshire, Enigma, FA Ken Wood - hmm... pass the smelling salts. These days, I'm of a decidedly nervous disposition!

Mick

P.S. Re the OP. The crucial udge on Post Mortem. Then repeat, repeat, repeat...
TobyA on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:
> And Pingers at Scugdale surely has to be the only VS with a one finger pull up.

Failed on that recently. (Despite my partner giving me helpful beta such as his teenage daughter who doesn't really climb had shot up it back in the winter, and that my feet were only about 70 cms off the floor as whimpered and said it was way to hard to be VS...)
Post edited at 12:02
The Ivanator - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

The steps from Tree to rock on Petros (VS 4c) and That Historic Reach (4a) come to mind.
geordiepie - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:
Lupino Lane (f8A)


"Ungradeable run and jump but one of the finest and most fun and unique problems in the UK. run over 2 boulders, and take 2 steps up the wall then fly out rightwards 2 handed hoping to collide with some opposing holds. Utter genius"
Post edited at 14:04
nniff - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

There's a route at Freyr with an in situ trapeze, which makes the swing across a blank slab into a hoot of a V Diff. Most of the rest of is bucket jugs up a slab
oldie - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:
Many years ago soloed Great Gully, Craig yr Ysfa (V Diff).
Guidebook quoted Archer Thompson's original description for great cave pitch near top: "A novel expedient is to lay the palm of the right hand on the block and, using the arm as a pivot, perform a pirouette to the south; the climber thus lands in a sitting position, with one leg thrust upwards to the roof to maintain the equilibrium…any Gallio however, will complacently demand a shoulder."
This seemed ridiculous....however moved onto the block and automatically rolled into the position described.
oldie - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to Iain Thow:

> Surprised nobody has mentioned the "Fall over and grab the hold on the other side of the zawn" move at the start of Kinky Boots at Baggy Point. Thoroughly scary if you're short. <

IMHO the fall across the zawn on Traverse of the Gods, Swanage is even more intimidating. Onto rather rounded holds. (However there is often an in situ sling which makes it seem easy.) As further unusual moves the route also has a pendulum and a swim across a zawn wearing only rock shoes and the rope (followed by climbing up and hauling across dry gear and clothes.....the second could do a tyrolean traverse).

Trangia on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:
The "Harrisons' move" said to be peculiar to Southern Sandstone - sort of cross between a layback and a mantleshelf. There is a superb example about half way up The Niblick" 5b
Post edited at 14:51
Fredt on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:
The step across the void on Pulpit Groove at Lawrencefield.
For someone operating at that grade, it’s a big step.
Funnily enough, as the decades have passed, the step across has got easier, but the first move to get off the ground has got harder.
Alex@home - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

The bridging on P1 of An Bealach Rúnda (E1 5b).
It's bridging so not weird per se. The weirdness is that it's bridging between the crag and a detached pillar. About 20m of it
Iain Thow - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to Alex@home:

sounds a bit like Spantastic at Flodigarry.
Flodigarry#photos
Gordon Stainforth - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to Trangia:

> The "Harrisons' move" said to be peculiar to Southern Sandstone - sort of cross between a layback and a mantleshelf. There is a superb example about half way up The Niblick" 5b

I think this may be the move you're referring to:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=11014
Trangia on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
> I think this may be the move you're referring to:


No, it's the move up to the break just below the climber's feet. The move you show is generally done by bridging out to the first to the right, then to the left to get up the recess before laybacking from tiny holds reachable above where the climber is.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=545pb8-yX0s
Post edited at 17:11
petegunn on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:
Not really a particular move but more a style maybe.
Anything at Brimham!
Jabberwok, Tube Break, Closet Crack, Lilo, Constrictor Chimney, The Brutaliser etc.
All sorts of body positions and all body parts used and not a crimp insight for all those wall monkeys to pull on ; )

Just watched the latest UKC Fri film, superb : )
Post edited at 17:49
Gordon Stainforth - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to Trangia:

Ah, yes, I remember now. Goodness knows how many times I did it between about 1968 and 84, but it's still a long time ago ... I never had the guts to solo it because of that appalling sharp-edged boulder at the bottom that could break your back if you came off.
alan moore - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

There's a VS at Bowles Rocks where you go through a big roof by slithering up inside a narrow, circular hole: hands down by your sides, you just shove yourself up through with your feet.
biscuit - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

Chipper's Wall (f7A+)

Never got anywhere near it....
Deadeye - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to HeMa:

F*ck me. That has the worst soundtrack...
profitofdoom on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

Pink Wall Traverse (HVS 5a) at Avon is a bit unusual, and fun, climbing up the 3 iron spikes to the Aerodrome
paul__in_sheffield - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

I remember Vaya Con Dios E2 5C at Gardoms was an entertaining lead, don’t wear your best coat...

Gritstone weirdness at its best. Climb the crack in the south face to a horizontal break then squirm along this, passing the arete precariously. Stand up (hard!) and then finish easily. © Rockfax


The Ivanator - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to alan moore:

Various other slithers through holes come to mind Shelob (HS 4b) is quite a distinct "move" or two rather than a longer sequence like Sea Tube (VD) Benny (A1) Under Milk Wood (VS 4a)Pequeño saltamontes (5a) etc.
Gordon Stainforth - on 11 Nov 2017
In reply to alan moore:

> There's a VS at Bowles Rocks where you go through a big roof by slithering up inside a narrow, circular hole: hands down by your sides, you just shove yourself up through with your feet.

Ah, yes, the splendid 'Sapper'. Great fun. Very unusual. That was one I have soloed ... even more 'fun'
Post edited at 23:38
Caroline_Schofield - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:
I definitely did some very unusual moves getting onto the block on
Tody's Wall (HVS 5a)!
Motown - on 12 Nov 2017
Stuart S - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

There's a sequence on the boulder problem Lydia's Mouth at the Buttermilks which is easier to climb facing out, despite it essentially being a gently overhanging face climb - http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a9XjbkfG6M0/T3PPYKYAIjI/AAAAAAAADSs/nT_QYp0WEuc/s1600/2012-03-26+085.jpg

Trangia on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to alan moore:

> There's a VS at Bowles Rocks where you go through a big roof by slithering up inside a narrow, circular hole: hands down by your sides, you just shove yourself up through with your feet.

That's Sapper 4c, as you say it's very difficult to get your hands past your body just when you need them and it can turn into an ungainly upwards wriggle. The thinner you are, the better. Fat people really struggle. Once well into it, it's almost impossible to fall out

Gordon Stainforth - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to Trangia:

I imagine it's a bit of a nightmare if you're fat. If you're quite small as I was/am, it's really very easy.
Trangia on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Same for me, I'm fairly thin. Whenever I suggest we do Sapper, some of my larger friends groan!
jcw on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to The Ivanator:

And of course NCE
Andy Peak 1 - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:
A Day at the Prom (E4 6b)
Post edited at 10:06
MischaHY - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

Whenever I see the aforementioned threads I'm always certain that these people have never been to Fontainebleau. Look at Rainbow Rocket (f7C+) as an example of where the crazy dynos indoors come from.
Graeme Hammond - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

The Shiznit (f7A) the double dyno method shown at the start of this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10D_EeXvSYI
deacondeacon - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Have you done it Graeme? If not let's go and do it one night this week
Nigel Coe - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:
Two odd sequences at Swanage.
On Graduation Day I'd recommend a helmet for the lean back from undercuts on one wall of a cave to get your head on the other wall. Graduation Day (E2 5c)
And on Sons of Pioneers I had to traverse a horizontal undercut chimney thingy (a long bottomless slot under an overhang) facing out to sea. When I reached my leader's runners, which were by my feet, I had to turn round, drop down and extract said runners before yarding upwards onto vertical rock. Unfortunately the runners proved too much for me! Sons of Pioneers (E6 6b)
overdrawnboy - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

Not sure if its really a climb but The Monkey Jump at Wharncliffe is pretty wierd, potential fractured skull among other possibilities of damage to the person.
Allovesclimbin - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

Fosbury' Crack E2 6a , Selby's Cove , Northumberland.
Look up the Fosbury Flop . Superb .
Ian Parsons - on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

Long before everybody got strong enough to simply campus this sort of thing - and sightly more involved than HeMa's "feet first toehooking" - the cave pitch on Castellan springs to mind. One could, as I recall - having clipped the odd old peg and got some gear in a vague crackline - reach out to the middle of the roof and grasp a couple of pockets; three or four fingers, I grant you - but not buckets. One could then dangle from these, rotate clockwise [viewed from above], invert [good word, "invert"], and get a foot jammed in whatever crack was out of sight over the lip. Now comes the novel bit. Lacking any other means of ascent one had no option but to shin up one's own leg in order to regain rock. [It would be nice to think that therein lay the derivation of the word "shin" - but probably not.] Sadly, that was as far as I ever got; just when my lodgement in the continuing groove seemed assured, a surfeit of bodily appendages - in this instance mostly my head, and possibly right shoulder - dictated otherwise. I just didn't fit. Gravity was fortunately at hand to get me back to base.
cb294 - on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:


Schusterweg on Falkenstein (an easy five pitch route in the Elbe sandstone) has belly crawls along a horizontal crack, unprotected padding up a sloping face, downclimbs through a tunnel, safe but undignified au cheval thrutching over the top of a split off flake (you can also walk, but the fall is quite long and factor 2 onto the belay if you mess it up!)

Several routes in the Alps famously also have bits done au cheval, e.g. Zinalrothorn North Ridge,

My favourite esoteric move is improvising hands off rests under roofs by head jamming, an essential skill for by lazy but pain tolerant climbers.


CB
Gordon Stainforth - on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

I couldn't resist posting this picture that I came across (god knows how or why) on Pinterest. Certainly an 'unusual' move:

https://i.pinimg.com/564x/e5/3a/12/e53a1215183addf866fa04602ec8ef33.jpg
paul mitchell - on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Cressbrook,Speckled Egg,mighty jump for crimps on roof,from the deck.
Rob Morgan on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to The Ivanator:

Yes wanted to mention Petros, great fun and safe as you can get a high runner. Been ages since I did that route, need to get on it again.
Nigel Coe - on 16 Nov 2017
In reply to Ian Parsons:
It's the same tactic on Tape and Ape, Cormorant Ledge, Swanage. Luckily I never got that far on my attempts! https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=280593
Post edited at 18:25
snoop6060 - on 17 Nov 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

There is a whole circuit of this sorts stuff at dame Jouanne in font. Think it's about 60 problems where you don't touch the floor. Lots of weird stuff and quite scary in places. None more so than the grand finale which basically involves jumping off the crag onto a tower to catch 2 massive jugs at about 8m. It's a bloody great leap as well, defo needs a full on run up. Gonna be messy if you drop it, didn't have the balls me. The sketchy mantle onto a mossy shelf 3m above a broken fence was enough harassment for the day. Anyone done the jump at the end? Brave shit that.

Supposed to be a rest day activity but like everything in font, it was bloody hard!

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