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guy127917 - on 12 Nov 2017
Evening, hope you all had a great training week. A new gauntlet has been set by Dandan82 to establish the weirdest exercise of the year. As impressive as a wife pull-up is (and I must stress that I say that without any knowledge of the wife in particular) I think TheFasting is currently leading with feline pistol squats…

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html

Last week’s thread can be found here:  https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=673804

Ally Smith: Sounds like a solid plan. Is Spain your next planned trip?
AJM: Congrats on the tick and thanks for the inspiring video. My advice for skiing training is to mix drinking jaegerbombs with balance drills. Goals sounds good to me!
Tyler: Sorry to hear that diagnosis. Are there things that can be done to manage that?
guy127917: good luck!
snoop6060: Great to hear you are on the rock and having a good time!
Tom Green: It may well make sense for you, but what’s your rationale setting your new STG rock goal as E2 (given the previous E1 goal)?
TheFasting: You don’t have to set goals here- it sounds like you generally know what you are trying to achieve and don’t have a problem motivating yourself to do the training for it. I think different people get different things out of it- some people are externally motivated and like sharing goals and achievements, other people literally just need to write down step by step actions to work out what to do, other people just like to keep track of what they thought they would achieve at points in the past.
hms: Enjoy your trip!
Dandan82: The chin up exercise sounds like a novel approach- definitely interested to hear how that pans out. Fingers crossed!
Si dH: Keep on causally bashing out 7A boulders
mattrm: Being forced to change up your routine isn’t always the worst. You could make your own rainbow eliminates?
Bobling: Permission granted, hope to see you back here at some point.
Laura Morrissey: How was Brooyar? With the crossfit-y stuff, this is through your climbing gym right? Do they fit it into any kind of periodisation plan for you (like.. build base/core strength+fitness for 6 weeks, then build sport specific strength for 6 weeks etc)?
mrchewy: Great to hear you’re making it work.
hokkyokusei: It amazes me that even in some training books it just says “don’t be afraid to take a week or two off after your marathon”. It can take quite a long time
the sheep: Nice progression incorporating the brick session, that should force some adaptation nicely.
AlanLittle: Thanks for the trip report and reflections/conclusions, sounds like you have some stoke for the next trip!
Jen Jones: Nice balanced gym workout! Get on it in Spain
Just Tintin: Congratulations on running WCS and glad you enjoyed it!

AWOL: planetmarshall
AlanLittle - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Well, on the wife pull-up theme: I tried to make AJM's wife lighter by hiding her lunch in my rucksack, but I got found out.

Anyway ...

STG: The plan was either: (a) immediately take a couple of weeks break from climbing to recover from shoulder & elbow niggles before pitching in to a boulder training programme for Font at Easter, or (b) use Kaly fitness to get a decent redpoint or two in on local crags and then take the break. Given that the medium term forecast over here is drizzle & sleet turning gradually into full-on snow, Option A has chosen itself. But I suspect resisting the call of the wall for the entire rest of the month is going to be a challenge
And here's another STG: left leg pistol. Haven't been able to do one for several years due to an aging arthritic knee but bugger that. Rage against dying of light etc.

MTG: decide on a goal for Font at Easter & plan late spring Kalymnos trip
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: "Rest" day - travel home from Kalymnos via Athens. Not particularly restful.
T: Proper rest day.
W: Bike 1½ hours
T: Stair climbing at work 3 x 40 floors. 28:30 at bodyweight. About the same as I used to do with a 10kg rucksack when I was training for alpine stuff. But I'm not training for alpine stuff any more so [grits teeth] that's alright then.
F: Boulderwelt with my son. No bouldering for me: shoulder, elbow, core, pistol progressions in the weights room.
S: Rest day.
S: Boulderwelt weights room. Shoulder & elbow rehab stuff, kettlebells swings & TGUs, core & pistol progressions. Could perfectly well have done this at home, but wanted a change of scene from the living room & I have a season ticket so it costs nowt extra.
Si dH - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks for the stats Guy. Got a bit more done this week.

2017:
- Fix my finger injury
- Shoulder/core training: 3 sessions per week while I'm unable to pull at max power on my fingers (and while I'm heavy!)

January-March 2018:
- do a grit 7B or two over the winter
- weight down to 11 stone 4

April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse

M: rest
T: bouldering at the Climbing Unit. Felt pretty weak, trying a bunch of the orange circuit but some of them spanked me pretty badly. Was nice to go there and get a decent amount of moves done though.
W: rest
T: shoulder workout (usual TRX exercises).
F: rest
S: rest
S: got out for 3 hours bouldering at Gardoms. Managed to do Soft on the G (f7B). Pleased with this as I've failed on it in two previous bouldering seasons. Some new beta and really good connies helped today.

Finger recovery going well: I think it's pretty much there now. No significant pain in the last fortnight. If I try a 2-arm max hang session on the aa edges at some point soon, that will be the final test...
Failed the shoulder training goal again this week but hoping things are settling down again now after a few mad weeks at work. Maybe.
Really lucky with weekend grit conditions, today was about perfect

Si
Jen-a-Thor - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Hi Guy,

Yes it was a good workout, I wonder who complied it ;p

I have left my notepad in the UK with all my notes in for last week but from memory here it is:

Monday: Short boulder session. Really wasn't feeling it and called an early night. Was there around 1.5hrs.

Tuesday: Lead climb session. This was great got on a bunch of 6a-7a+ climbs. Did all the moves on a 7a+ in the wells on lead. I want to say I had only one rest and as I can't quite remember but I think it may have been more like three.

Wednesday: Another boulder session. This time much more successful. The challenge was to climb in each boulder section of the castle (7, I think) doing a little bit on each. This was a really good way to work hard to get routes sent in a short length of time and not spend to long on the same move. I managed to send things much quicker than normal with maximum effort. Felt much stronger on the wave too.

Thursday: rest

Friday: rest and travel to COSTA BLANCA!

Saturday: 7 climbs (one, twice) at Sella in Costa Blanca. Lead 3, the rest on top rope. Getting back into it.

Sunday: Lead three climbs 5+ - 6a+ and worked pretty hard top-roping a powery, overhanging 7a+ (Basket Case). Quite sustained climbing up to a big hole and then some nuts, hard moves! One day! Felt really good leading today. Focussed and tuned in.

No weird exercises last week. Will try harder this week.
guy127917 - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Pretty bad pre-trip prep week for me really.
Monday: binge ate and felt terrible for bouldering session
Tuesday: binge ate again and skipped last training/benchmark session
Wednesday: Rest, nutrition good
Thursday: Rest, overate and drank because I was taken for a meal at Goodman
Friday: Travel
Saturday: half day at Sella getting head in the game, O/S upto 6b.

Sunday: L'Oclaive to try Basket Case (7a+). Conclusion..... absolutely nails.

The steepness of the route is way beyond anything I've been on before outside the gym. I was pretty intimidated by it which stopped me really going for it 100%. I tried to do it on top rope to sort my head out but it's just incredibly awkward, especially on the crux move, didn't really help at all and I powered out before the top.

That said I forced myself to do all the moves bolt to bolt, and surprisingly I could do all of them except the last one (which I'm sure I will be able do). The crux sequence out of the hands off rest hole off right feels absolutely wild, with more tough moves above it! One of the points of getting on hard stuff this trip is to find out what I need to work... turns out it's head game on steep ground! Hoping to start feeling a bit more comfortable on this type of things over the next 12 days.
Post edited at 19:27
mrchewy - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Evening Guy, thanks as usual.

BHAG - Salbit West Ridge
LTG - Font 7A

Mon - Rest day. Physio. Cuisiniere. Hard not to join in but super sore. Bumped into Sophie, Caff's Mrs and Pete Robins etc, so heard a little English for a change. Massive beer session after.
Tue - Cuisiniere after physio, shoulder tendon painful. Maybe 8 problems and tried a few 6s. Nice day with Polish mates, then left alone and got lost... big beer session to make up for it.
Wed - Buthiers after physio. Shoulder felt okay warming up. Flashed a red slab, 5A, in bad conditions. Shutdown by 6B slab. Spent a while on a shouldery overhanging 6A on slopers - no biscuit but a great workout. Smashed after.
Thu - Woke up properly kaput but did physio and stretching. Roche au Sabot, no people!!! Three of us went around the orange circuit. I did 29/30 problems, bailing on left shoulder intensive problems or greasy highball slabs. Flashed most and on a fair few we eliminated big obvious holds. Flipping ace day.
Fri - Rest day. Rain. Went shopping, few beers and early night.
Sat - Raining. Walked to all the hidden caves but everything was wet.
Sun - Rain. Walked around the small sectors to the back of Elefant and looked around Damme Juanne.

Rain bought needed rest days. I was proper pooped after Sabot. Physio goes okay, stretching too but need to get the tightness out of the aductors, it's affecting the bad knee.

Font is pretty amazing.
Post edited at 19:49
Si dH - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Working steep things on TR is really hard, you waste loadd of energy trying to get back in to the rock. You're much better doing it on lead, especially if you have a clipstick.
AJM - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to Si dH:

> Working steep things on TR is really hard, you waste loadd of energy trying to get back in to the rock. You're much better doing it on lead, especially if you have a clipstick.

+1

AJM - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to AlanLittle:

> Well, on the wife pull-up theme: I tried to make AJM's wife lighter by hiding her lunch in my rucksack, but I got found out

She enjoyed the trip to the car and back really

Stg: get more sleep
Mtg by Easter
- 7B pyramid (1-2-4-some) with the Font 7s being from at least 3 different areas including Font.
- some trad?
- some sport maybe from - RR, FT, HoM, NS, BHB, LAT
- >90% bw on the lattice rung and some improvements in other PBs. Improvements in shoulder strength/on shouldery problems too.
Ltg 2018, a bit early to say:
- solid dws season
- good autumn trip
- build a base for long term progress - keep getting stronger
Bhag as ever - E5s, Tom et je Ris, ~7c-8a onsight/flash, big adventures that these bring.

Monday - back sore from bouldering and baby wrangling. Stretching rather than weights
Tuesday - wall. Started well, faded fast. Pacing going to be Key especially if overall energy levels low
Wednesday - some stretching, 3 sets of 8 @32kg overhead press
Thursday - nothing in the end. Meant to do fingerboard but sat down and failed to get back up
Friday - fingerboard. Lattice edge to ~64-65kg - pb ~67kg so not bad for first time back
Saturday - nothing
Sunday - fingerboard. Bm2k, crimp rails and slopers both to ~90kg for ~10s - pbs on both nearer 95kg for about 13s?

A fair few sessions on paper but a lot of this week was easing back into the idea of training strength.

It’s been an exhausting week. Sickly child means I’ve not slept well all week. Missed out on a perfect climbing today thanks to a 3hr awake stint last night. Been feeling drained and a bit low. Need to sleep better this week as I think that’s a key driver of my mood.
guy127917 - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to Si dH:

Thanks. We do have a clip stick and yes I do just need to get my act together
Tom Green on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Hi Guy,

Thanks as ever for the stats.

Good point about the rock STGs... funnily enough my other half was questioning my wisdom on this too! My rationale was that I SHOULD be able to achieve it(!) -however, as weather/daylight hours and moving priorities (leg work for winter) are likely to be reducing the hours I put in to rock climbing, maybe I should roll-over my previous STGs of E1 on grit and limestone. With that in mind...

SHORT TERM GOALS (BY 31 DEC 17)
Walk (or skin) 1200m height gain, with 18kg, in <4hrs
E1 on Grit
E1 or F6b on Limestone
M8 Redpoint
'El Cap Nose Day' (880m climbing in one day)

MEDIUM TERM GOALS (BY 30 APR 18)
Scottish VII
5 routes of ED1 or above
5 Black Runs
Haute Route

MID-LONG TERM GOALS (BY 31 JUL 18)
E2 on 5 different rock types
F7a Redpoint
Sandstone Trail <10hrs
Font 6B

LONG TERM GOALS (BY 31 OCT 18)
E3 on Grit & Limestone
Font 6C
Classic Alpine Route (Cassin, Westgrat, etc)
Half Marathon <1h 30m

This week was a funny week as it marked the end of employment and the start of my new life of freelancing. This is a lifestyle based decision (aiming to work a three day week, without too much sacrifice of income) -we'll see how well it works out over the next few months! The plan is to up the ante with climbing big time, so watch this space!

M: long day at work.
T: last day at work; drank to excess.
W: 6km run, didn't time it.
T: hill circuit based around an incline of 105m vertical in 275m horizontal (bodyweight only)
F: Chee Tor Girdle (great route, rescued a showery morning on the grit)
S: raving
S: shoulder rehab (bands)

Si dH - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to Tom Green:

Love how you've got 5 winter alpine ED1s as a shorter term goal than a Font 6B. It's amazing the variety of skills people have
Tom Green on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to Si dH:

Haha! Bouldering is much harder... it needs strength and technique.

In part, it’s less to do with my ‘skills’ (or lack of!) and more to do with different priorities at different times of year. Maybe it’s wrong to call them STG, MTG, etc... perhaps they’re more seasonal goals? Though some of them do sort of lead up to the next lot!
Just Tintin - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to Si dH:

Apologies if you were in range of my falling off Mark's girly noise this afternoon!

Ps. The oranges definitely feel mean

Just Tintin - on 12 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

In Dorset this weekend coming if anyone wants an impromptu FC meet (weather permitting)? Any discipline attempted ;)

AJM - what's our best bet for trad this time of year?

LauraMorrissey - on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy!!

Brooyar was great/hot. Despite the heat I climbed my goal, a 17 on lead (with rests) in the sun. Only managed one long (45m) on Sunday before the sky opened and we called it.

Learnings from the weekend:
– climbing with 11 people is TOO MANY
– borrow sister’s Subaru so you aren’t reliant on others to get to the crag
– cooking 2 dozen eggs on a shitty camp stove is the worst

My training sessions on Monday/Wednesday are semi-private sessions (max 6 people) and the trainers set progressive plans. Not 100% sure what the current period is as the main two trainers are in Nepal for a month climbing 3 peaks. Their clientele is a mixture of climbers and hikers so not all sessions are geared towards climbing. The MetCon class I go to is a separate free fitness session run by the climbing gym and is run by the same instructors which is handy.

I’ve updated my goals to include some cycling ones too.
STG:
- 2 pull ups
- lead a 18 (5c) at Kangaroo Point
MTG:
- Lead "Zeitgeist" at Mt Tibrogargan in March-ish time when it’s cooler. Route is 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c) - need to work on my lead head/route finding
- do 5 pull ups by 31/01/2018
- Uni loop on bike (approx. 25km/16miles)
LTG:
- Cycle to Nudgee beach (50km/32miles) by 31/03/2018
- climb a big wall before I'm 40

Monday
AM Training
6 Rounds:
- 6x deadlifts (40kg), tried 1 round with 50kg but dropped to focus on technique
- 4x each leg assisted single leg squats
- 4x each leg jump lunges
3 rounds: 20sec on/10 sec rest circuits of
- bar row
- ball slams (12kg)
- plank should taps
- shuttle runs

PM Indoor Gym - all top rope
- sent project (23/6c+)
- worked a few climbs 20-22 (6a+/6c) range. Still working on completing an overhung 21 route. Need to work on endurance.

Tuesday
PM commute home on bike

Wednesday
AM Training
- push jerks x3 sets 25kg, x1 set 30kg
- x3 sets, 8 bar pulls / J-curls 12kg kettlebell
3 Rounds:
- 20 squats
- 20 lunges
- 20 jump lunges
- 20 jump squats

Thursday
- Rest Day

Friday
MetCon Class
15mins circuit:
- x10 jump squats to bar / swing and then squat
- Side crabs
- Extended arm lunges
- Driveway sprints x3
- bear crawls
2 songs - core exercises with 5 kg plate
- Russian twist
- overhead sit up
- twists

Weekend - Brooyar
Saturday - Black Stump Buttresses
16/5a Lead (clean), 15/4c T/R (clean) x 2, 17/5b Lead (two rests)
Sunday - Eagles Nest
16/5a T/R (clean)

Feel like my lead head is coming back! Yey
Si dH - on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to Just Tintin:

> Apologies if you were in range of my falling off Mark's girly noise this afternoon!

Haha no I didn't, we were there in the morning and I left the crag before 2. Any success?

AJM - on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to Just Tintin:
> AJM - what's our best bet for trad this time of year?

So.....
- http://www.ukho.gov.uk/easytide/EasyTide/ShowPrediction.aspx?PortID=0035&PredictionLength=7 Says the tide is quite high for most of the day on both days {edit - for info despite being fairly close together Swanage, Portland and Lulworth often have surprising variation in high tide times so do use the one you want and don’t just assume that one can serve as a proxy for all}
- https://magicseaweed.com/Kimmeridge-Surf-Report/11/ Says basically flat water Saturday but swell coming on Sunday
- Weather forecast is northwesterlies on Saturday tilting a bit more westerly Sunday (hence the bigger swell)
- The weather hasn’t been that wet recently and is forecast to be mainly dry this week so the cliff topouts shouldn’t be in terrible condition. If when you get there the ground is minging then quarried topouts such as at Guillemot East are your friend. Either that or preplaced ropes!

So on Saturday you should be sheltered from the wind with high but flat water, so basically you can do anything that’s non tidal. On Sunday, you might especially as the day goes on want to be somewhere with a decent sized boulder field at the base (Guillemot, Ocean Boulevard, decent chunks of the Ruckle although not the corner going west from Marmolada or the right hand end of the wall with Elysian on it or Golden Fleece etc) as high water plus swell could get a bit splashy.

We have visiting parents for a bit of the weekend but it would be good to catch up if opportunity allows. If nothing else I owe you a guidebook and a drink!
Post edited at 07:38
Ally Smith on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks for the stats Guy - and retrospective thanks for collating the 555 stats for the past weeks.

The formative plan got slightly waylaid by more opportunity to climb than anticipated - still felt great to be back climbing and upping the training volume after a few lazy weeks.

Week 46
S - Not reported last week – 22km flat road biking at a too-slow-to-stay-warm pace
M - Prehab session #1. Hammer curls x20, 1-arm hanging trap engagements (x6, with rubber band assist), 7/3/6/3 middle-2 (deep BM2K) OHP 10kg x25, TheraBand trap engagements x20, all x3.
T - 22km lunchtime biking – much faster/warmer than the Sunday fugue.
W - Raven Tor lantern session. Climbing at 4C felt so cold after >35C in Myanmar! Tried Sympathy in Choice (f8A) but still couldn’t get the middle move to work. 3 goes on Shades of Grey (f7C) (eliminate finish to Cave Problem) – got it on the last go https://www.instagram.com/p/BbUOdGvByMR/
T - AWS. 10min warm-up. 50min bouldering - they’ve got the grades straight and V5/6 actually feels hard now. 30min continuity on auto-belays at f6a-c (good set of Margalef style 2-finger pockets on these). 3x8 dips – hard.
F - Nowt – felt knackered.
S - Informal coaching of the lady’s brother & partner at AWS. The reset is baby soft again. All the V6-7 set, mostly flashed (nothing harder than V4?) Gluttonous and boozy meal
S - “Jaded” – country walk around industrial heritage site - lots of stretching & foam rollering.

3 climbing sessions planned again this week - hopefully find time for biking and maybe a gym session too?
Post edited at 09:11
the sheep - on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> the sheep: Nice progression incorporating the brick session, that should force some adaptation nicely.

Cheers, not able to continue the good work quite as well last week, horrible snotty cold early in the week got rid of my get up and go. Any exercise felt like hard work but not unwell enough to take time off work. Week went as follows;

Monday, 1km swim

Tuesday, 1km swim and 16km cycle

Wednesday , nothing. Busy day at work, joyous days training on compressed and cryogenic gas safety!

Thursday, 5km run

Friday, 1km swim and 16km cycle

Saturday, 10km run out on the muddy trails, really enjoyable

Sunday, youngest two started gymnastics club so some free time to explore the woods and commons somewhere new. 5km run but lots of potential for some lovely new trails to run along.



Tyler - on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> Sorry to hear that diagnosis. Are there things that can be done to manage that?
Thanks guy, I'm currently manning it by whinging a lot and making sure everyone knows I have this injury and that is the reason I'm shit! In future I'll just need stronger and stronger pain killers.

M and T: Walking around Berlin, can't recommend this enough, excellent city (grizzly history aside). Don't go for traditional the cuisine though.
W: BUK -
T: BUK - was knackered, didn't do FO campusing but managed the green warm up traverse for the first time.
F: Rest
S: Depot comp, my performance could be interpreted in two ways; on the one hand I got as many top outs as much stronger people but on the other there was a big step up at problem 15 and I barely got off the ground on any whilst the stronger people got multiple bonuses. I was also disappointed that I didn't flash more. The comp itself was good as not too crowded.
S: BUK - Met up with the Fox and Strong Ru which was good, had a psychosomatic reaction to seeing the Fox and felt a shoulder twinge. I climbed poorly, but at least managed to complete all the warm up traverses in a session for the first time ever and completed two FO campus sets (60, 40, 30, 25; 45, 30, 20, 5!)

Took a hit on my weight after Brelin and, to be honest, I've only compounded that since.
Tyler - on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> L'Oclaive to try Basket Case (7a+). Conclusion..... absolutely nails.
This used to be 7b and I certainly don't remember it being an obvious candidate for a down grade. There are better and easier low sevens (Gandia)

AJM - on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to Tyler:

> There are better and easier low sevens (Gandia)

+1

That wall of 7a and 7a+ tufa-y routes at gandia is excellent.
Dandan82 - on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy!

> A new gauntlet has been set by Dandan82 to establish the weirdest exercise of the year. As impressive as a wife pull-up is (and I must stress that I say that without any knowledge of the wife in particular) I think TheFasting is currently leading with feline pistol squats…

*places order for antique wrought-iron gate, 5 cans of silly string and 1/2lb of halibut...*

> Dandan82: The chin up exercise sounds like a novel approach- definitely interested to hear how that pans out. Fingers crossed!

I did this exercise as prescribed on Sunday and then climbed Monday, I was absolutely astounded at the change in the elbow. Zero discomfort during warming up and then little or no pain on moves that I know would have hurt the previous week. The difference was really pronounced. Of course I got a bit giddy and probably climbed a few more routes than I should have, and a few harder ones too, but I didn't feel any soreness until the next day.

I can't immediately attribute this improvement to the chin ups, as I went on to repeat this process twice on Wednesday and Saturday, with much more mixed results, in fact I don't feel like there has been any net gain in the elbow from the end of last week up to today.
Perhaps the dramatic improvement last Monday was a combination of factors, perhaps the less good results Weds and Sat were a combination of other factors, maybe I pushed too hard Monday and set myself back, it's difficult to pick through all the variables and find the cause(s).
The positive part is that I somehow made a huge recovery in just a couple of days, the trick is going to be figuring out exactly what it was that I did, and repeating it.

I also did some intense calf massage this week, as after a bit of investigating, I think my inability to touch my toes is mainly due to a nerve block in the lower part of the sciatic nerve rather than just tight legs. The worst thing you can do with a blocked nerve is try to stretch past it, which goes to show why my continued efforts at stretching yielded very little progress. 10 minutes of torturing myself resulted in a significant increase in ROM when sat on the floor with leg straight, I was able to lean forward quite a large amount with no pain, whereas I'm usually lucky to manage to sit upright, so i'll continue with that to see how far I can go.

In other news, i'm 60 pages into Jerry's new Mastermind book and thoroughly disappointed, it's so far just feels like a random stream of thought, giving mostly anecdotal advice. I'm hoping it gains traction at some point and actually becomes useful, also the diary-style of the book seems to have no significant purpose, it's just different for the sake of being different.

This week coming is just more easy climbing, chin up rehab, handstands and calf pummeling, then we are off to Sheffield at the weekend and hoping to get out for a bit of bouldering if the weather is good, unbelievably it will be my first time on grit!

hokkyokusei - on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> hokkyokusei: It amazes me that even in some training books it just says “don’t be afraid to take a week or two off after your marathon”. It can take quite a long time



Didn't do much this week either. Started well, but faded fast...

m - 2hrs gym, stretches, drills, plyo, core, circuits
t - track 1200 warm up, 6x200 (100 recovery), 1x400 (200 recovery), 3x100 (100 recovery), 1x400 (200 recovery), 6x200 (100 recovery), 800 cool down.
w - rest
t - had to work late
f - on the piss
s - driving to Cannock ...
s - ... and back

Just Tintin - on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to AJM:
Wow thorough thank you! Haven't done any trad down south since I was a VS climber so looking forward to finding it all nails!

Will keep you posted on our plans and you're welcome to join any time. Suspect Ben will want to boulder on the Sunday as he's got plenty of cuttings unfinished business. You are on the list for RR so perhaps see you then if not before.
Post edited at 15:24
Ally Smith on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to hokkyokusei:

> hokkyokusei: It amazes me that even in some training books it just says “don’t be afraid to take a week or two off after your marathon”. It can take quite a long time

I did a marathon in 2011 - i've not returned to running since...
mrchewy - on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to Ally Smith:

> I did a marathon in 2011 - i've not returned to running since...

I did the 112km ultra in 2012 and haven't ran much since...
Si dH - on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to mrchewy:
That's far too much effort. I did a 10k in 2010...
Post edited at 19:17
AJM - on 13 Nov 2017
In reply to Just Tintin:

> Wow thorough thank you! Haven't done any trad down south since I was a VS climber so looking forward to finding it all nails!

No problem anything in your sights?

> Will keep you posted on our plans and you're welcome to join any time. Suspect Ben will want to boulder on the Sunday as he's got plenty of cuttings unfinished business. You are on the list for RR so perhaps see you then if not before.

Yes, fingers crossed.

Climbthatpitch - on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Hi all

Used to post on here as Leeboy1985. I have been off for a while with DIY club but that is mostly finished now. Hope it is ok to jump back in

Guy looks like you have still been doing an amazing job with the stats

I have had to re-join as posting weekly last time helped me lose some weight and get fit for the alps. Now I have put all the weight back on plus more . Too many take aways, alcohol and lack of exercise (I blame moving and DIY it was not laziness )

Now I need to get fit for an ice climbing trip in Febuary and another alpine trip next year some time - still in the planning phase for this though so not sure when or where yet.

Suppose I better post some goals

Current weight 84kg - Target 78kg

STG-Next week
3 x climb (1 on indoor tools 20 pitches)
1 x Mountain Walk - 6 hours
1 x run - Short <20 min fast pace
Make sure I do press ups, dips and core before all climbing sessions
1x leg strength session

MTG - Next march

2 trips to Scotland - want to climb up to grade 3

Alpine combine from training for the new alpinism
Box steps - 5 min -12 kg pack
45 sit ups in 60
8 pull ups in 60 sec
45 box jumps in 60 sec
25 push ups in 60 sec

Climb 2 more e1 on limestone
HVS on 2 other rock types than limestone
Sport 6c

BHAG

The 1938 Route (ED2)
Anything on El Cap

Last weeks training

M - Bouldering at Boulders Cardiff - V3 -V4 circuit some of there are quite easy ad some are bloody nails - Aim to complete them all before it gets re set
T - Rest
W - Some easy bouldering to start then 10 routes on the indoor tools
T - Route climbing all on top rope up to 6b+
F - Rest
S - In a bit of a dream world as I had to work Friday night and then had the kids all day so just drifted by trying to stay awake.
S - Alpine combine test
Box steps 730 steps (305 meters) in 39 min 42 sec
35 sit ups 60 sec
6.5 pull ups in 60 sec
35 box jumps in 60 sec
18 push ups in 60 sec



hms - on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

In sunny Spain. Don't think I can do a proper report on my phone so will do a double update next week. We've found an incredible steep anti style 7b so will be returning for another play after the rest day today.
Dandan82 - on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to Climbthatpitch:

Welcome back Lee!
Ally Smith on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to hms:

> In sunny Spain. Don't think I can do a proper report on my phone so will do a double update next week. We've found an incredible steep anti style 7b so will be returning for a successful redpoint after the rest day today.

Fixed that for you
Tom Green on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to Climbthatpitch:

Hi mate

Good work with the alpine combine.
What’s the Steve House book like? I’ve been tempted to invest in a copy. Do you rate it as an aid to getting mountain fit?

Tom
TheFasting on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Yeah that's true. I think goals are good, but they don't motivate me in themselves, the progress does. Eventually if my progress starts slowing enough, then I'll have to focus on the goals to keep motivated maybe.

EDIT: No that's not right. It's common for me to picture being on the summit slopes of K2 or Everest when trying to push through the suck on a stair climb/hill workout

The tendon strain I was worried about disappeared by monday and never reappeared, so apparently a false alarm.

M - I was dead after the 5 hour stair climb.

T - Still resting, didn't have time to go climbing.

W - Ran 5 km to the gym in a new PR time of 29 minutes (below aerobic threshold, nose breathing tempo). Then did a bunch of limit bouldering. Got to within the second to last move on a 6B but fell off it lots of times.

Then ran 5 km back in 30 min or so, can't quite remember.

T - Ran 2.5 km to get to the car mechanic.

Also did some bodyweight fitness where I did 5 half one arm push-ups on each arm, 6 uneven pull-ups with supporting hand halfway down forearm on each arm, and 5 one arm chin-up negatives on each arm. That I can even do a negative is a PR.

Did some weighted pistol squats with 1.5 kg and think I did 6 or 7 on each leg, but no improvement from last time.

F - Went to a bouldering gym I haven't been to in a while, focused on volume. Did all the f5s in the gym, and then 4-5 f5+ to f6A+, most onsight. That was fun because last time I was there I worked an hour on a single problem on that grade and was really excited when I got it. That was this June.

Also did some bodyweight strength but mostly dicking around.

Did my first lever one arm chin-up (https://www.instagram.com/p/BbZSqWnDMrp/?taken-by=thefasting).

Then did hangboarding. This time 4 sets of 3-6-9 for open hand, crimp, half-crimp. Used the 29mm edge for open hand and 19mm for the rest because they didn't have 30 and 20mm. So... 1mm PR?

Sunday:

Bodyweight strength session again. This time I went for the full one arm push-up and I got 3! First time!

For fun after I tried using my cat for weight for the pistol squat and I did that too! No other Google result for cat pistol squat so I'm claiming the world's first (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7bmghjNdfo)

Then 2.5 hour stair climb, taking elevator down. Got 200m more elevation gain this time with 1325m.
Post edited at 13:49
TheFasting on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to AlanLittle:

Btw after last week I think you're right about the weight helping the pistol squat. Last week I held the water bottle on the side of the leg I wasn't using, because I had tried the other side and felt off balance. This week I held it (cat named Molly) on the side of the active leg, and I did feel it helped me balance a bit. Just have to hold the added weight the right way, I think.
Ally Smith on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to TheFasting:

1.5kg is a tiny cat - my moglet "Fatty" weighs 6.5kg...

...even his brother "stupid" weighs 4.5kg
TheFasting on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to Ally Smith:

Oh the 1.5 kg is a water bottle. The cat Molly weighs 4 kg. But I have a heavier 5.8 kg cat I can use to progress with.
Climbthatpitch - on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

Thanks
Climbthatpitch - on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to Tom Green:

Hi Tom

Thanks, the box steps were brutal

Yeah I do really rate it. They seam to back up everything they are saying with some sound data backed up by top alpinists.
I also Like the idea of the alpine combine just to keep re-measuring to see if the training is working.

There are some very good body weight exercises in there that can be completed almost anywhere or with things you can find quite easy and the periodization theory looks sound.

I'm still not convinced by the really going slow (zone 1) for someone with my fitness level. People with a lot higher fitness would probably benefit more from this as I find it too hard to stay at them levels while ascending. On the flat it is no problem but that defeats the purpose.

Lee

Ally Smith on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to TheFasting:

> Oh the 1.5 kg is a water bottle. The cat Molly weighs 4 kg. But I have a heavier 5.8 kg cat I can use to progress with.

Purr-fect
Dandan82 - on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to Ally Smith:

> Purr-fect

That very nearly earned you a dislike... ;)
Tom Green on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to Climbthatpitch:
Thanks Lee, good to know.

Like you, I really like the idea of having a reasonably objective way of measuring progress. ‘Hill fitness’ is so hard to actually judge otherwise.

Also, i hope you don’t mind me questioning it, but are you being hard enough on yourself with a winter target of Scottish 3?! Looking at your recent rock ticks (combined with your AC test results) I bet, with good conditions and a partner that you trust, you could get a 4 done!! ;-)
Post edited at 15:38
guy127917 - on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to Ally Smith:

Which one is Rupert?
Si dH - on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

I decided he deserved one!! ;)
Just Tintin - on 14 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

I've just bought a large bargain basement pumpkin so thinking about an appropriate exercise use now...

M: coaching and fingerboard
T-T sweet FA
F: climbing unit WBL arrived with 40 mins to go so smashed out 180 before hand in, then worked some of the later ones off the record. I am a weak trad climber at the moment. Need to get back on the bouldering.
S: Gardoms to V5 (maybe not as weak as I thought? including some unconventional top out skills) then fell off lots on Marks
S: early AM WBL round at Wirksworth (173) then Gardoms remembering the moves on Apple Arête Direct (E4 5c) then back to Mark's for more falling off. Lovely conditions for grit = poor conditions for my circulation! I am definitely weak.
Jen-a-Thor - on 15 Nov 2017
In reply to hms:

Hi, I hear you did the Provence workshop this year with Adrian Berry? Thinking of doing it next Easter and wondered what you thought? Also, I'm a big scaredy cat when it comes to falling so wondered if this might be a problem progressing through the week?
Climbthatpitch - on 15 Nov 2017
In reply to Tom Green:

No its always good to question

I only managed a weekend up Scotland this year and I had big aspirations but due to conditions (read experience) I never achieved none of them so I thought if I aim smaller this year then I wont be as disappointed if I can't get up there.

Looks like you have just set me a challenge now to aim a bit higher when I do get to Scotland

Partner wise it has just been me and a mate both with little experience in winter but he has held a few of my falls in summer so the trust is there.
Ally Smith on 15 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Rupert = Fatty.
Pluto = Stupid

Only Fatty is more stupid than Stupid...
snoop6060 - on 15 Nov 2017
In reply to Jen Jones:

I think you would probably get more out of it than someone who is not scared of falling to be honest. Overcoming (to some extent) the fear of falling in a positive enviroment is achievable in a week, alot more so than actually getting better at climbing. Not been on this trip specifically but heard some good feedback from someone I know who has (who was also really scared of falling).
Just Tintin - on 15 Nov 2017
In reply to AJM:

Cool - not been anywhere so the Ruckle sounds good, and by looking purely at stars I guess a few of Behemoth, Jo, Lightning Wall, (avoiding Thunderball as rubbish at routefinding), Elysium, Ximenes, Gypsy, Buccaneer, Ocean Boulevard and eyeing up Barracuda in case it might be my kind of thing on a warm day next year? Anything else in that kind of grade range that should be on the list?
AJM - on 15 Nov 2017
In reply to Just Tintin:

> Cool - not been anywhere so the Ruckle sounds good, and by looking purely at stars I guess a few of Behemoth, Jo, Lightning Wall, (avoiding Thunderball as rubbish at routefinding), Elysium, Ximenes, Gypsy, Buccaneer, Ocean Boulevard and eyeing up Barracuda in case it might be my kind of thing on a warm day next year? Anything else in that kind of grade range that should be on the list?

Barracuda is apparently very good but the bottom is very steep. If you abseil down ocean boulevard (which is easily approached from free parking) you'll get some idea.

The other obvious things I would recommend are over on Guillemot, but you're unlikely to want to switch between two venues at opposite ends of the crag on a fairly short day.
Just Tintin - on 15 Nov 2017
In reply to AJM:

Great thanks ;)
Jen-a-Thor - on 15 Nov 2017
In reply to snoop6060:

Well that sounds ideal. It puts me off so many things that I know I can do and other things that maybe I can't but I want to try anyway.
snoop6060 - on 15 Nov 2017
In reply to Jen Jones:
You should go, you have nothing to lose (well apart from 600 quid!). I have been on a few of these type of trips in my time. Apart from anything else you tend to get really keen people on them regardless of grade and that lends itself to a good vibe which will certainly mean you push yourself. In any case, I would not be too hung up on being scared of falling off or failing on harder routes. Every single climber I have ever met, even e6 climbers, or people climbing in the 8s can be scared of falling off. I have probably taken over 1000 falls outside and can still occasionally lose the plot completely even at the prospect of the safest fall on the planet . It is like a little goblin that you need to occasionally punch hard in the face so it pipes down for a bit (a bit like me some would say).

Edit; sat at my desk thinking about it, over 1000 falls is alot Haha, might only be a couple of hundred if you discount slumps whilst working and digging routes!
Post edited at 16:58
Jen-a-Thor - on 16 Nov 2017
In reply to snoop6060:

Yeah, I reckon I have been convinced. Worst case, week of climbing in an awesome place!

Also, thanks for the confidence boost on the falling. Think I may place too much emphasis on it. Always good to be reminded that most people feel like that sometimes.

p.s. I think I have taken approximately 3 falls, only 1 of which I remember so maybe only 1.
planetmarshall on 16 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:
> AWOL: planetmarshall

Two week update from Red Rock
Mon - Flight.
Tue - Dark Shadows (5.8). Established that RR 5.8 is about VS - ish, and multipitches go about twice as quickly when you don't have to create your own belays.
Wed -
Thu - Willow Springs. Mostly single or short multipitches with short walkins Karate Crack (5.9) - basically a grit HVS 5b complete with overhanging hand crack. Ragged Edges (5.8). Peaches (5.7)
Fri - Crimson Chrysalis (5.8). 9 pitches of possibly some of the best VS climbing in the world. Established that the classics in Red Rocks are extremely popular, but the two parties ahead climbed pretty quickly. Fairly tired of 5.8 now and want to climb a bit harder.
Sat - Walked in to do Triassic Sands (5.10c) but far too busy. Sacked it off and went pottering at Kraft Boulders.
Sun - Y2K (5.10b). A bit of esoterica on a weekend, but even this was popular.

At some point here I consumed about 20oz of rare prime rib (Unlike Simon I also tackled the chips) and my memory was a bit hazy. I do know that I barely ate for about 2 days, which may seem like a useful situation for a climber, but I don't recommend it as a strategy.

Mon - Some sport climbing I think. I'm pretty indifferent about the sport climbing at RR.
Tue - Walked in to climb The Nightcrawler (5.10c), but was seriously sandbagged by the walk in ( a good 2 hours, vs the guidebook's 1hr 15mins ), unless you happen to be the American WADs who passed us on the way to the Juniper Canyon. Sacked it off and climbed Unimpeachable Groping (5.10b) instead. A good backup option.
Wed - Planned to do Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a), my main aim of the trip but was far too busy. Climbed the alternative start, The Gobbler (5.10a), in an attempt to get ahead of the party in front but was a bit of a sandbag. Great route in its own right, though. Climbed pitches 3 and 4 of Turkeys before sacking it off. Good day out despite not completing the route.
Thu - Headed into Calico Basin, Red Springs to climb some cracks with Eszter. Attempted The Fox (5.10d), a stunning line and far and away the hardest climb I've tried to lead. Fell off the initial layback and left it to Eszter. Seconded it with one rest - E2/3 maybe? Hard to tell without much experience at the grade, though safe as houses. Belayed Eszter up "Tooth Decay", a fun but fairly sandy offwidth roof. Managed to retrieve a bit of the gear but completing it was a bit beyond me. Good day out.
Fri - By now fingers fairly knackered after lots of crimpy face climbing.
Sat - Had a go at the unfortunately named High Class Hoe (5.10a) but was mystified by the crux roof. Seconded it clean, slightly annoyed at not leading it.
Sun - Flight home - delayed by six hours.

Overall a great couple of weeks, would have liked to complete Turkeys but the classics are so busy. Keen to go back and do The Nightcrawler (5.10c), possibly in combination with a trip to Indian Creek.

Some photos of the trip here -

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jl9gh1rte1gnm7s/AAD9UsFrLrLE4Xgz7bPbrYCna?dl=0

STG
-----

Back on the training bandwagon. Start an 8 week strength plan for Mixed and Ice climbing assuming I get the chance to do any - if not, well, you can never be too strong.
Post edited at 18:31
biscuit - on 18 Nov 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy.

El Chorro trip was really good. Just so nice to be climbing regularly with good people.

Overcooked it on the first day attempting Arabesque retro flash with a hangover. Ended up sat on my own foot above a bolt and rather than risking the move I grabbed a draw. Head not in the game. Got to the top in a oner after that. Had an unscheduled rainy rest day but got back into it on day 3 with a very close 7a+onsight (went 2nd go easily enough) where I went to a well chalked up hold that turned out to be rubbish (and subsequently not needed).

Then the weather changed and a strong pure Northerly wind meant all the Frontales crags had no breeze and were baking and the Northerly crags were freezing, really freezing. Managed to salvage a mileage holiday out of it with lots of great routes in the 6's done, some unexpected failures, a couple of 7a retro flashes and I learnt I can't get much psyche on an airport day. All good and I did as well as I thought I would off the back of very little actual training.

Had man flu since I got back and into essay writing for the next couple of weeks. So a couple of easy sessions to get back into it will be all I probably manage this next week.


AlanLittle - on 18 Nov 2017
In reply to biscuit:

Sounds a bit like my recent Kalymnos trip - a good climbing holiday but not quite the cruise to glory one was hoping for.
biscuit - on 18 Nov 2017
In reply to AlanLittle:

Ha ha! Your trip had a lot of positives from what I saw - and a discovery of what does/doesn't work for yourself on a trip. That's invaluable for the next one.

I had no hopes/expectations before I went as i'd only done a few sporadic circuit sessions and not much climbing.

It would have been interesting to see what would have happened if the weather had stayed perfect but nothing I can do about that. I surprised myself a couple of times and disappointed myself a couple of times. Story of my life!
hms - on 18 Nov 2017
In reply to Jen Jones:

sorry for the slow reply - I was in Spain and not looking at UKC as such as it's dreadful on my phone! Yes the course was very good. Adrian is not a technique coach but rather more focused on getting you up stuff whilst keeping your head straight. He would certainly help with fear of falling. The location is very good, the grading and bolting at some of the crags somewhat old school! Trois Rivieres was an exception - happy grades and a lovely little crag.
AJM - on 18 Nov 2017
In reply to hms:

> Adrian is not a technique coach

I have never done a coaching course with him, but I did a few hours of technique coaching with him in London many years ago and it was very useful.
guy127917 - on 19 Nov 2017
In reply to AJM:

Same, I did a couple of hours with him at the castle a few years ago. I found him to be a very thoughtful and analytical coach. hms- could you elaborate on that comment? Was it that you have great technique already and didn't need too much advice there?
Jen-a-Thor - on 19 Nov 2017
In reply to hms:

No worries. Hope you had a great time in Spain.
Thanks for the information. Provence sounds like a pretty good trip. I think I might give it a go although I'm hoping to get some help with my technique too. Not sure what is my main weakness, probably a bit of both.
As Guy said above, I wonder if you didn't need much technique help or if the course was not aimed at giving technique coaching?
mattrm - on 21:48 Wed
In reply to guy127917:

STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st

M - T - Rest
W - 25 routes at wall
T - S - Rest

Better late than never. Actually despite my complaining, the reset has been good. I was forced to do the harder routes and managed them ok. So that wasn't as bad as I made out.

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