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This might sound bizarre but I'm seeking out some awkward, physical crack climbs, the sort that people shy away from.
Ideally complete sandbags, routes that leave you collapsed in a heap at the top/dangling off your gear halfway up.
Grade seems pretty irrelevant with these types of routes, found the Grond on the Cromlech way way harder than stuff with much higher E grades. To narrow it down say HVS - E3.
Recommendations welcome!
Ideally complete sandbags, routes that leave you collapsed in a heap at the top/dangling off your gear halfway up.
Grade seems pretty irrelevant with these types of routes, found the Grond on the Cromlech way way harder than stuff with much higher E grades. To narrow it down say HVS - E3.
Recommendations welcome!
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In reply to JackM92:
Anything at Wimberry. Particularly Freddie's Finale (HVS 5b), The Trident (E1 5b) and Blue Light's Crack (E1 5b). Those should keep you busy!
Anything at Wimberry. Particularly Freddie's Finale (HVS 5b), The Trident (E1 5b) and Blue Light's Crack (E1 5b). Those should keep you busy!
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In reply to JackM92:
Tremadog: strapiombo. This couldn't fit your description more if it tried, especially the total sandbag part. The description fits your wishes as I believe it is something along the lines of "somewhere between hvs and e3". And oh yes, it's physical.
Tremadog: strapiombo. This couldn't fit your description more if it tried, especially the total sandbag part. The description fits your wishes as I believe it is something along the lines of "somewhere between hvs and e3". And oh yes, it's physical.
Post edited at 21:55
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In reply to JackM92:
Lots to choose from in the Forest of Dean. This for example:
Picket Line (HVS 5b)
Lots to choose from in the Forest of Dean. This for example:
Picket Line (HVS 5b)
In reply to JackM92:
Minus 10 at Stoney. VS 4c. Enjoy! Well worth the visit! There are some other 'nice' cracks on the crag.
Minus 10 at Stoney. VS 4c. Enjoy! Well worth the visit! There are some other 'nice' cracks on the crag.
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In reply to JackM92:
The Camel, Gogarth main cliff. Has a couple of pretty brutal crack pitches, the first of which is very exciting.
The Camel, Gogarth main cliff. Has a couple of pretty brutal crack pitches, the first of which is very exciting.
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In reply to JackM92:
Delilah at Pule Hill gives you a full body workout.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=126592
Don't wear a helmet because otherwise you can't turn your head round once you're wedged in there and rack all your gear on your right hip because you can't get at your left.
Delilah at Pule Hill gives you a full body workout.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=126592
Don't wear a helmet because otherwise you can't turn your head round once you're wedged in there and rack all your gear on your right hip because you can't get at your left.
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In reply to JackM92:
Trungel Crack at Shining Clough. Not that brutal, but weirdly ungradeable (well, it's somewhere VS-E1, nominally HVS.....but but but but)
It's just awful - a shite route. There is an HS "escape route" that is even worse. And take warthogs for the belay as there is nothing up there (I backed off leading it, sent a more competent friend up, he took about two hours including investigating the HS escape, and the belay ended up being a rope around a grough, Tall Clare bedded down in a ditch, and the leader taking a sensible hard sitting stance)
The crack bit is only about 3 metres though....
Trungel Crack at Shining Clough. Not that brutal, but weirdly ungradeable (well, it's somewhere VS-E1, nominally HVS.....but but but but)
It's just awful - a shite route. There is an HS "escape route" that is even worse. And take warthogs for the belay as there is nothing up there (I backed off leading it, sent a more competent friend up, he took about two hours including investigating the HS escape, and the belay ended up being a rope around a grough, Tall Clare bedded down in a ditch, and the leader taking a sensible hard sitting stance)
The crack bit is only about 3 metres though....
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In reply to JackM92:
Bloodshot (E1 5b)
only given HVS even in the new guide but appears to only been led by E5 climbers?
Would love to know how it compares to other crack test pieces.
Chris
Bloodshot (E1 5b)
only given HVS even in the new guide but appears to only been led by E5 climbers?
Would love to know how it compares to other crack test pieces.
Chris
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In reply to JackM92:
A few from down west.
Seahorse at Chair Ladder HVS but seems to repel many comfortably climbing the grade.
Immaculate crack at Carn Boel- e4 safe but hard.
Genges Groove at Sennen - e1 but certainly brutal and incredible for it’s era.
Oesophagus at Chudleigh- slippery little number this.
There are loads in the lands end area and around West Penwith generally. Also Tom Last’s singularity which I think is luxylan somewhere. Not seen this in the flesh but the photos look horrific.
James
A few from down west.
Seahorse at Chair Ladder HVS but seems to repel many comfortably climbing the grade.
Immaculate crack at Carn Boel- e4 safe but hard.
Genges Groove at Sennen - e1 but certainly brutal and incredible for it’s era.
Oesophagus at Chudleigh- slippery little number this.
There are loads in the lands end area and around West Penwith generally. Also Tom Last’s singularity which I think is luxylan somewhere. Not seen this in the flesh but the photos look horrific.
James
In reply to mrphilipoldham:
Perhaps I was going well but I found the first two you mention fine for the grade.
Another vote for Sentinel Crack. Right Eliminate (not done it) and Chequers Crack must be on the list.
> Anything at Wimberry. Particularly Freddie's Finale (HVS 5b), The Trident (E1 5b) and Blue Light's Crack (E1 5b). Those should keep you busy!
Perhaps I was going well but I found the first two you mention fine for the grade.
Another vote for Sentinel Crack. Right Eliminate (not done it) and Chequers Crack must be on the list.
In reply to JackM92:
Medusa (HVS/E1) at Stoney Middleton. I knew someone who failed miserably on it and then led Wee Doris (E4) the following day.
Medusa (HVS/E1) at Stoney Middleton. I knew someone who failed miserably on it and then led Wee Doris (E4) the following day.
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In reply to JackM92:
Pod Crack (E1 6a)
Makes the Vice feel like face climbing.
Elastic Arm (E1 5b)
Looks easy, but isn't. Very wide.
The Fox (E2 5b)
No idea how hard this is, I've never been able to get established in it
Pod Crack (E1 6a)
Makes the Vice feel like face climbing.
Elastic Arm (E1 5b)
Looks easy, but isn't. Very wide.
The Fox (E2 5b)
No idea how hard this is, I've never been able to get established in it
In reply to JackM92:
If you're ever in the vicinity, there are some great 25 - 30m vertical crack lines on the main wall of Trowbarrow. Hollow Earth (HVS 5a - but sustained!) and Cracked Actor (E2 5c) are fantastic hand and finger jamming lines. I've never done it, but 'A Touch of Class' (E2 5c) might also be up your street, given the logbook write-ups: "Took me a while to comprehend the level of thrutch required to get through the roof crack" and "definitely did not feel classy. painful jams. burly."
If you're ever in the vicinity, there are some great 25 - 30m vertical crack lines on the main wall of Trowbarrow. Hollow Earth (HVS 5a - but sustained!) and Cracked Actor (E2 5c) are fantastic hand and finger jamming lines. I've never done it, but 'A Touch of Class' (E2 5c) might also be up your street, given the logbook write-ups: "Took me a while to comprehend the level of thrutch required to get through the roof crack" and "definitely did not feel classy. painful jams. burly."
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In reply to JackM92:
Baluster Crack (HVS 5b) and The Trouser Legs (E2 5c) contrasting styles, but both should give you what you're looking for...
Baluster Crack (HVS 5b) and The Trouser Legs (E2 5c) contrasting styles, but both should give you what you're looking for...
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In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:
The Trident was listed as HVS 5a when I did it.. I got quite a surprise as a relatively new HVS leader at the time!
The Trident was listed as HVS 5a when I did it.. I got quite a surprise as a relatively new HVS leader at the time!
In reply to JackM92:
In Devon I'd have to agree with Oesophagus at Chudleigh (similar to Medusa at Stoney). Man Bites Dog (E2) at Durl Head is even gnarlier - especially for the second who could be in groundfall territory. The Hood (E3) Berry Head has it's moments too.
In Devon I'd have to agree with Oesophagus at Chudleigh (similar to Medusa at Stoney). Man Bites Dog (E2) at Durl Head is even gnarlier - especially for the second who could be in groundfall territory. The Hood (E3) Berry Head has it's moments too.
In reply to mrphilipoldham:
It was when I did it and I thought it comparable to something like Saul's Crack but as I say I was going well at the time.
> The Trident was listed as HVS 5a when I did it.. I got quite a surprise as a relatively new HVS leader at the time!
It was when I did it and I thought it comparable to something like Saul's Crack but as I say I was going well at the time.
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In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:
That's The Vice (E1 5b) and Saul's Crack (HVS 5a) both mentioned now, by way of comparison to other things. Bit obvious maybe, but they both belong on the list in their own right.
While I'm at it I'll chuck another couple of grit routes into the pot (at the easy end of the OP's scale, because it's the top end of mine): Sorrell's Sorrow (HVS 5a) and Nowanda (HVS 5a) (all a bit flared and slippy that one).
Oh, and I just remembered - my profile pic is a Northumberland contender: Slab Crack (E1 5b)
> It was when I did it and I thought it comparable to something like Saul's Crack but as I say I was going well at the time.
That's The Vice (E1 5b) and Saul's Crack (HVS 5a) both mentioned now, by way of comparison to other things. Bit obvious maybe, but they both belong on the list in their own right.
While I'm at it I'll chuck another couple of grit routes into the pot (at the easy end of the OP's scale, because it's the top end of mine): Sorrell's Sorrow (HVS 5a) and Nowanda (HVS 5a) (all a bit flared and slippy that one).
Oh, and I just remembered - my profile pic is a Northumberland contender: Slab Crack (E1 5b)
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In reply to Ben_Climber:
If he wants 'awkward' better to go to Cratcliffe and get on Reticent Mass Murderer.
> Take some pads and play on Ray's Roof?
If he wants 'awkward' better to go to Cratcliffe and get on Reticent Mass Murderer.
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In reply to Anti-faff:
An absolute classic.
> Oh God yes, The Doffer. The best route I never want to do again.
An absolute classic.
In reply to deepsoup:
Tried Nowanda earlier this year... had a torrid time on it.
> That's The Vice (E1 5b) and Saul's Crack (HVS 5a) both mentioned now, by way of comparison to other things. Bit obvious maybe, but they both belong on the list in their own right.
> While I'm at it I'll chuck another couple of grit routes into the pot (at the easy end of the OP's scale, because it's the top end of mine): Sorrell's Sorrow (HVS 5a) and Nowanda (HVS 5a) (all a bit flared and slippy that one).
> Oh, and I just remembered - my profile pic is a Northumberland contender: Slab Crack (E1 5b)
Tried Nowanda earlier this year... had a torrid time on it.
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In reply to deepsoup:
Another that's often used as a benchmark of awkwardness: Roof Route (VS 4c)
Apparently OK if you have big feet, which I haven't. I genuinely assumed this would be about VDiff until I actually got on it.
> That's The Vice (E1 5b) and Saul's Crack (HVS 5a) both mentioned now, by way of comparison to other things. Bit obvious maybe, but they both belong on the list in their own right.
Another that's often used as a benchmark of awkwardness: Roof Route (VS 4c)
Apparently OK if you have big feet, which I haven't. I genuinely assumed this would be about VDiff until I actually got on it.
In reply to Ben_Climber:
Not HVS-E3. Maybe if it had been at Ramshaw.
> Take some pads and play on Ray's Roof?
Not HVS-E3. Maybe if it had been at Ramshaw.
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In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:
I had a torrid time too, which it why it immediately sprang to mind if the OP is looking for sandbags - did Moyer's Buttress (with the rocking block in place) the same day and it felt much easier.
I had a torrid time too, which it why it immediately sprang to mind if the OP is looking for sandbags - did Moyer's Buttress (with the rocking block in place) the same day and it felt much easier.
In reply to Dave Garnett:
Oh yes. Not all that hard (I probably have bigger feet than you though), but I'll certainly give you 'awkward'. I giggled the whole way up it, brilliantly undignified thrashing about! If VS's with undignified thrashing are in, we should mention Every Man's Misery too.
Its namesake over the way at Rivelin probably deserves a place on the list too: Roof Route (HVS 5b)
> Another that's often used as a benchmark of awkwardness: Roof Route (VS 4c)
Oh yes. Not all that hard (I probably have bigger feet than you though), but I'll certainly give you 'awkward'. I giggled the whole way up it, brilliantly undignified thrashing about! If VS's with undignified thrashing are in, we should mention Every Man's Misery too.
Its namesake over the way at Rivelin probably deserves a place on the list too: Roof Route (HVS 5b)
In reply to Dave Garnett:
I think it was me and Andi who took the chock out of the fox at newstones.
Head to ramshaw and you can make a day of cracks starting with green crack. You have to pull for a v.s
On the lower tier is an e2 with a tricky too section and an e1 next to tierdrop also another e1 just left of that. All typical ramshaw climbs
If your ego is still intact have a go at ramshaw crack. Don't even Think of trying to miss the flat hold out like p.w does in the vid with shauna.
I think it was me and Andi who took the chock out of the fox at newstones.
Head to ramshaw and you can make a day of cracks starting with green crack. You have to pull for a v.s
On the lower tier is an e2 with a tricky too section and an e1 next to tierdrop also another e1 just left of that. All typical ramshaw climbs
If your ego is still intact have a go at ramshaw crack. Don't even Think of trying to miss the flat hold out like p.w does in the vid with shauna.
Post edited at 14:28
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In reply to deepsoup:
Not to mention Roof Route (E1 5b) - desperate!
>
> Its namesake over the way at Rivelin probably deserves a place on the list too: Roof Route (HVS 5b)
> Its namesake over the way at Rivelin probably deserves a place on the list too: Roof Route (HVS 5b)
Not to mention Roof Route (E1 5b) - desperate!
In reply to JackM92:
Battlecat at Brandrith. Brutal E3 roof crack. F6c+ as a high ball boulder. However legend has it that it was also given the grade HVS 5c "if you can really climb".
Hidden gem. worth the visit.
Battlecat at Brandrith. Brutal E3 roof crack. F6c+ as a high ball boulder. However legend has it that it was also given the grade HVS 5c "if you can really climb".
Hidden gem. worth the visit.
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In reply to pec:
I found Delilah quite easy for the grade, was certainly expecting more of a tussle. There's even a handy crack to wedge your helmet in while you squirm!
I found Delilah quite easy for the grade, was certainly expecting more of a tussle. There's even a handy crack to wedge your helmet in while you squirm!
In reply to Kafoozalem:
I've climed easier E4s - brutal but brilliant.
> Man Bites Dog (E2) at Durl Head is even gnarlier
I've climed easier E4s - brutal but brilliant.
In reply to JackM92:
Brimham: Brutalizer and Charming Crack and if you breeze up these have a grapple with Giggling Crack next door.
Brimham: Brutalizer and Charming Crack and if you breeze up these have a grapple with Giggling Crack next door.
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In reply to JackM92:
Have you ever made a trip to Fair Head in Northern Ireland? Route after another of crack climbing in all grades. Single to multipitch.
Have you ever made a trip to Fair Head in Northern Ireland? Route after another of crack climbing in all grades. Single to multipitch.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
A good number of years ago, we went to Ramshaw, to "do" the crack school after 20 minutes we left and went to Stanage
> Just go to Ramshaw and get 'stuck in'.
A good number of years ago, we went to Ramshaw, to "do" the crack school after 20 minutes we left and went to Stanage
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In reply to deepsoup:
And one that theme, Roof Route (E1 5b) at Back Bowden is a short brutal sandbag, and much more awkward and physical than Overhanging Crack imho
Also springing to mind is Marjory Razorblade at Dunkeld, the most fallen-off E2-3 in Scotland?
> Another that's often used as a benchmark of awkwardness: Roof Route (VS 4c)
> Its namesake over the way at Rivelin probably deserves a place on the list too: Roof Route (HVS 5b)
And one that theme, Roof Route (E1 5b) at Back Bowden is a short brutal sandbag, and much more awkward and physical than Overhanging Crack imho
Also springing to mind is Marjory Razorblade at Dunkeld, the most fallen-off E2-3 in Scotland?
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In reply to JackM92:
Meat Cleaver (6c+)
Thought of this one from Southern Sandstone, brutal fits well.
Chris
Meat Cleaver (6c+)
Thought of this one from Southern Sandstone, brutal fits well.
Chris
In reply to Dr Toph:
Agreed, from distant memory.
Also the most painful.
> And one that theme, Roof Route (E1 5b) at Back Bowden is a short brutal sandbag, and much more awkward and physical than Overhanging Crack imho
Agreed, from distant memory.
> Also springing to mind is Marjory Razorblade at Dunkeld, the most fallen-off E2-3 in Scotland?
Also the most painful.
Bloodlust, Haytor, used to be E3? though looks like it now gets E4. It's like fist jamming a cheese grater! Brilliant route.
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In reply to John Stainforth:
Terry Hirst did solo Giggling Crack in shorts and a t-shirt back in the old times, not sure it was quite a "breeze" but impressive nevertheless.
> If you breeze up these, you're another Syrett!
Terry Hirst did solo Giggling Crack in shorts and a t-shirt back in the old times, not sure it was quite a "breeze" but impressive nevertheless.
In reply to JackM92:
An awful lot of really quite straightforward and pleasant crack climbing is being recommended here.
Those recommending Ramshaw have it right but even there most routes are fine. If you want brutal you need to get on Masochism (E1 5b).
Ps Grond would be HVS in the peak, it's a path!
An awful lot of really quite straightforward and pleasant crack climbing is being recommended here.
Those recommending Ramshaw have it right but even there most routes are fine. If you want brutal you need to get on Masochism (E1 5b).
Ps Grond would be HVS in the peak, it's a path!
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In reply to JackM92:
i would give another vote for forked lightening crack at heptonstall, also Rat Race at Dunkeld and Club Crack on The Cobbler
i would give another vote for forked lightening crack at heptonstall, also Rat Race at Dunkeld and Club Crack on The Cobbler
In reply to JackM92:
I thought Broadsword (E4 6a) at Trevallen was quite brutal (hence the name, sort of).
I thought Broadsword (E4 6a) at Trevallen was quite brutal (hence the name, sort of).
In reply to mark hounslea:
Crumpet Crack. A beast.
Crumpet Crack. A beast.
In reply to JackM92:
I was thinking of Post Mortem on Eagle Crag Langstrath and stumbled across the following gem courtesy of Franco Cookson:
A dangerous scramble up to the bottom of the route, claimed my rucksack- down, off the cliff. We then set out on the '3 starred line'. Dooge ran out a fair few metres over classic 5a rock- covered in ferns, grass, mud, general grease. He nearly lost it, especially when the 'eagles' swooped in, but he got to the ledge and brought me up to the ledge. I geared up and slithered up- ramming a leg jam in the overhanging crack. This is how i attacked it- one leg in the crack, one off-width and the other limbs trying to get something on the grease. We had forgotten the large friend, so the only gear was one in-situ wire. The only problem was one of it's wires had rusted through so only friction was keeping the nut head on. I led on scarred and knackered- made my own fist jam out of a pile of chockstones and led up the green crux. I was slipping and the holds were buried. I eventually had to down climb the whole route- It was too steep to ab for the gear. A failure, but an experience. We abed off a suspect in-situ green sling and went for some food and a 'look' at Bleak How. We later looked through a more modern guide, that said a bird ban had been in place for 6 years- explained a lot about the filth. The 'Eagles' were probably peregrines. We didn't know though so shouldn't feel too guilty.
Check out the photos of John Syrett after doing battle with the route that are in the gallery section.
I was thinking of Post Mortem on Eagle Crag Langstrath and stumbled across the following gem courtesy of Franco Cookson:
A dangerous scramble up to the bottom of the route, claimed my rucksack- down, off the cliff. We then set out on the '3 starred line'. Dooge ran out a fair few metres over classic 5a rock- covered in ferns, grass, mud, general grease. He nearly lost it, especially when the 'eagles' swooped in, but he got to the ledge and brought me up to the ledge. I geared up and slithered up- ramming a leg jam in the overhanging crack. This is how i attacked it- one leg in the crack, one off-width and the other limbs trying to get something on the grease. We had forgotten the large friend, so the only gear was one in-situ wire. The only problem was one of it's wires had rusted through so only friction was keeping the nut head on. I led on scarred and knackered- made my own fist jam out of a pile of chockstones and led up the green crux. I was slipping and the holds were buried. I eventually had to down climb the whole route- It was too steep to ab for the gear. A failure, but an experience. We abed off a suspect in-situ green sling and went for some food and a 'look' at Bleak How. We later looked through a more modern guide, that said a bird ban had been in place for 6 years- explained a lot about the filth. The 'Eagles' were probably peregrines. We didn't know though so shouldn't feel too guilty.
Check out the photos of John Syrett after doing battle with the route that are in the gallery section.
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In reply to steveb2006:
I always thought Sentinel Crack was a bit of let down and relatively straight forward. I found Emerald Crack much more of a struggle.
> Sentinel Crack at Chatsworth ought to fullfill those requirements
I always thought Sentinel Crack was a bit of let down and relatively straight forward. I found Emerald Crack much more of a struggle.
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In reply to Si dH:
Charming Crack and Brutaliser straightforward and pleasant? Grond a path? You must be a very strong crack climber! (I found the Grond very strenuous, because I misjudged the angle.)
Charming Crack and Brutaliser straightforward and pleasant? Grond a path? You must be a very strong crack climber! (I found the Grond very strenuous, because I misjudged the angle.)
In reply to JackM92:
E4 but safe, Cream.
There’s a brutal E1 crack pod in that sector of Tremadoc, the name escapes me. I think I have blocked it from memory.
E4 but safe, Cream.
There’s a brutal E1 crack pod in that sector of Tremadoc, the name escapes me. I think I have blocked it from memory.
In reply to John Stainforth:
I wasn't referring to those as I haven't done them, but to a lot of others in the thread. I definitely stand by what I said about Grond though. There are a good few gritstone E1 and even HVS cracks that are harder. It's really straightforward.
> Charming Crack and Brutaliser straightforward and pleasant? Grond a path? You must be a very strong crack climber! (I found the Grond very strenuous, because I misjudged the angle.)
I wasn't referring to those as I haven't done them, but to a lot of others in the thread. I definitely stand by what I said about Grond though. There are a good few gritstone E1 and even HVS cracks that are harder. It's really straightforward.
In reply to Si dH:
I wonder how much a difference cams have made on Grond (haven't yet done it myself)? It was rated by pretty much everybody of my generation (same generation as John's), including some very strong climbers indeed. This was pre-cams. I think there was supposed to be a chockstone, high in the crack, which was awkward to thread. So maybe it was a race to get out of a groundfall situation (I know, seems bizarre in a crack, doesn't it!) Perhaps with the ability to slot gear in pretty much at will, a more considered approach may be made? Pure speculation, on my part, of course. One day I'll find out, that's for sure.
Jim Erickson once tried to entice me to lead it. I protested that my biggest gear was a MOAC. His reply was classic: "Don't worry, you'll be OK - I soloed it!"
Mick
I wonder how much a difference cams have made on Grond (haven't yet done it myself)? It was rated by pretty much everybody of my generation (same generation as John's), including some very strong climbers indeed. This was pre-cams. I think there was supposed to be a chockstone, high in the crack, which was awkward to thread. So maybe it was a race to get out of a groundfall situation (I know, seems bizarre in a crack, doesn't it!) Perhaps with the ability to slot gear in pretty much at will, a more considered approach may be made? Pure speculation, on my part, of course. One day I'll find out, that's for sure.
Jim Erickson once tried to entice me to lead it. I protested that my biggest gear was a MOAC. His reply was classic: "Don't worry, you'll be OK - I soloed it!"
Mick
In reply to Mick Ward:
I think cams would make a massive difference. IIRC there were two or three chockstones in the crack (in 1970), which were awkward and tiring to thread. Modern footgear (rather than EBs) might makes some difference. Still, the modern UKC consensus is E2.
I think cams would make a massive difference. IIRC there were two or three chockstones in the crack (in 1970), which were awkward and tiring to thread. Modern footgear (rather than EBs) might makes some difference. Still, the modern UKC consensus is E2.
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In reply to JackM92:
My recommendation would be a week in the Czech Republic! Saxon sandstone already has excellent crack climbing, but Adrspach simply is crack climbing paradise.
Just for a few tasters, have a look at those clips:
youtube.com/watch?v=RwUeU-oFB1Q&
youtube.com/watch?v=gLQtytqJ_KM& (check out the routes starting around 9:55 and 15:30 mins)
CB
My recommendation would be a week in the Czech Republic! Saxon sandstone already has excellent crack climbing, but Adrspach simply is crack climbing paradise.
Just for a few tasters, have a look at those clips:
youtube.com/watch?v=RwUeU-oFB1Q&
youtube.com/watch?v=gLQtytqJ_KM& (check out the routes starting around 9:55 and 15:30 mins)
CB
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In reply to JackM92:
Has anybody mentioned High Rocks, especially after a wet winter when it can be very green. Lots of off-width to suit everybody!
Has anybody mentioned High Rocks, especially after a wet winter when it can be very green. Lots of off-width to suit everybody!
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In reply to JackM92:
I am amazed no one has suggested King Kong. There are also masses of limestone horrors if anyone climbs them nowadays (Fee Fi Fo Fum if I remember aright) and even such straightforward (?) routes such as Original Route on High Tor. Cloggy Corner is pretty strenuous too. Abroad numerous suggestions but the one that takes the bag of buttered buns is Fissura della Desperanza at Val D'Orco one pitch of which was enough to make us back off!
I am amazed no one has suggested King Kong. There are also masses of limestone horrors if anyone climbs them nowadays (Fee Fi Fo Fum if I remember aright) and even such straightforward (?) routes such as Original Route on High Tor. Cloggy Corner is pretty strenuous too. Abroad numerous suggestions but the one that takes the bag of buttered buns is Fissura della Desperanza at Val D'Orco one pitch of which was enough to make us back off!
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In reply to jcw:
All of those fall firmly in the straightforward bracket.
> I am amazed no one has suggested King Kong. There are also masses of limestone horrors if anyone climbs them nowadays (Fee Fi Fo Fum if I remember aright) and even such straightforward (?) routes such as Original Route on High Tor.
All of those fall firmly in the straightforward bracket.
Post edited at 06:31
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In reply to Si dH:
Hmm... I certainly don't mind admitting that I found King Kong decidedly awkward, despite decades of crack climbing. Would agree with John about many limestone cracks, grim when done yesteryear and almost certain to stop many contemporary climbers in their tracks. (Top tip: get grovelling!)
Post Mortem must have been mentioned somewhere. A stout lead from Paul Ross (our very own USBRIT), in 1956, on a route from which Whillans had to be rescued.
Mick
Hmm... I certainly don't mind admitting that I found King Kong decidedly awkward, despite decades of crack climbing. Would agree with John about many limestone cracks, grim when done yesteryear and almost certain to stop many contemporary climbers in their tracks. (Top tip: get grovelling!)
Post Mortem must have been mentioned somewhere. A stout lead from Paul Ross (our very own USBRIT), in 1956, on a route from which Whillans had to be rescued.
Mick
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