In reply to Skip:
> I was once in Delhi's main station when the stilted automated tannoy thing announced: "The Trivandrum Express is currently running... nine... hours late."
>> This is why, frightening as Indian roads can be, I often use buses, taxis or Jeeps.
Our record for a train was a delay of 39 hours. Not what you want at the start of a journey that was already expected to take 37 hours.
Buses can be just as bad. We spent 16 hours on what was supposed to be a 3 hour journey. The reason? There was a single-track river crossing. Our bus driver and another bus driver traveling in the opposite direction both decided to try and cross at the same time. They ended up in a standoff half way across the 300m bridge with neither of them willing to back down despite being asked nicely (and then not so nicely) by their passengers and other drivers. All the other drivers filled in the gaps behind them, causing a 10 mile tail back in either direction which meant it took another 2 hours after one of them had given in before we could start moving again. We ended up walking to the next town to get some food and waited in comfort for the bus to catch us up.
We also waited for over week for transport to Leh. Got up at 3am every morning, packed our bags and waited for the Jeeps to arrive. Some nights, someone got a phonecall to say that avalanches had prevented the Jeeps from making it. Some nights, Jeeps arrived with passengers from Leh, we got in, only to be told there had been another avalanche, the pass was blocked again and we weren't going anywhere. Eventually, we gave up and changed our travel plans. Still, better than getting caught up in one of the landslides.