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A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=674169
AlanLittle: Sounds like a good plan to prioritise your rehab. A month sounds like quite a long time, how much reversal of finger strength do you anticipate in that period.
Si dH: Congrats on the 7B tick,
JenBones: How is your trip going so far?
guy127917: You’re a basket case
mrchewy: Glad you’re having a good time. Sounds like some rest days were thoroughly deserved.
AJM: Which fingerboard strength protocol are you going with?
Tom Green: I’m looking forward to see what you get up to over winter/spring!
Laura Morrissey: On the pullup thing- can you do chin ups? (i.e. with the grip the other way around and grip closer together?
Ally Smith: Always nice to see the positive effects of rest! Congrats on the 7C tick. When you’re bouldering at those temperatures do you have to jump about a lot to avoid getting cold between burns?
the sheep: From your last post I take it you are planning on sticking with the running through winter weather?
Tyler: I would recommend Berlin solely for the currywurst..
Dandan82: Agree with your analysis of the start of mastermind- but I wasn’t disappointed (mainly because Jen bought it). I think it’s just supposed to be a set of cues to get you thinking rather than a Rock Warriors Way style thesis/framework?
hokkyokusei: Sounds like motivation/planning fade rather than physical! Have you got a training plan for the next few months?
Climbthatpitch: Welcome back Lee. Great to see you’re starting your plan with a combine and a solid plan!!
hms: Looking forward to your trip summary…
The Fasting: Amazing video, your cat seemed to really enjoy that (or was really hungry!)
Just Tintin: Pumpkin turkish getups… I’m not surprised you feel weak if you go trad climbing after doing a boulder comp in the morning!!
planetmarshall: Thanks for the trip report. Sounds like a great trip- not many rest days!!!
biscuit: Glad to hear you had a good trip and got some ticks you are happy with.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=674169
AlanLittle: Sounds like a good plan to prioritise your rehab. A month sounds like quite a long time, how much reversal of finger strength do you anticipate in that period.
Si dH: Congrats on the 7B tick,
JenBones: How is your trip going so far?
guy127917: You’re a basket case
mrchewy: Glad you’re having a good time. Sounds like some rest days were thoroughly deserved.
AJM: Which fingerboard strength protocol are you going with?
Tom Green: I’m looking forward to see what you get up to over winter/spring!
Laura Morrissey: On the pullup thing- can you do chin ups? (i.e. with the grip the other way around and grip closer together?
Ally Smith: Always nice to see the positive effects of rest! Congrats on the 7C tick. When you’re bouldering at those temperatures do you have to jump about a lot to avoid getting cold between burns?
the sheep: From your last post I take it you are planning on sticking with the running through winter weather?
Tyler: I would recommend Berlin solely for the currywurst..
Dandan82: Agree with your analysis of the start of mastermind- but I wasn’t disappointed (mainly because Jen bought it). I think it’s just supposed to be a set of cues to get you thinking rather than a Rock Warriors Way style thesis/framework?
hokkyokusei: Sounds like motivation/planning fade rather than physical! Have you got a training plan for the next few months?
Climbthatpitch: Welcome back Lee. Great to see you’re starting your plan with a combine and a solid plan!!
hms: Looking forward to your trip summary…
The Fasting: Amazing video, your cat seemed to really enjoy that (or was really hungry!)
Just Tintin: Pumpkin turkish getups… I’m not surprised you feel weak if you go trad climbing after doing a boulder comp in the morning!!
planetmarshall: Thanks for the trip report. Sounds like a great trip- not many rest days!!!
biscuit: Glad to hear you had a good trip and got some ticks you are happy with.
2
In reply to guy127917:
I am getting it on in Spain big time BOOM!
Mon: rest day - did an excellent classic multi-pitch climb, Parle. The abseil in is down through a large hole into mid air looking out to the sea. I lead the first and third pitch. Although there were a couple of bits where I paused for thought all in all I felt good leading.
Tues: Went to Sella and spent a lot of time trying to second an over-hanging 7a. Found it pretty hard going but a fun challenge. Should probably just lead this kind of climb, trying to unclip on an overhang and then coming off, swinging out and not being able to get back on is hard work! Had a go at leading La Cosa (7a) which I top-roped last year. Got chicken and ditched after the third clip. Would quite like to have another go if we go back there although I have said that about every climb that I haven’t done clean this trip.
Weds: Rest
Thurs: Gandia. This place is great. We worked a 7a and 7a+ which were next to each other. The 7a was nails, found the overhanging, powery beginning very hard so I had to get my superhero cape out. The 7a+ seemed more inline with my strengths although haven’t managed the crux yet which is right up near the anchor. Will be going back to these this week.
Fri: Trad, 5 pitch climb in Vall de Guadar. Pretty frustrating first pitch as I got stuck on one bit and got quite annoyed. I think I started swearing at the rock and then just jumped off. Although that pitch was in my bad books I got my positivity back for the rest of the climb and had a good day out. Was a little disappointed that I didn’t try harder but will remember and improve next time. I think my on sighting skills could be improved ;p
Sat: Such a good day for me at Guadalest. I led 6 climbs, two were red-points and one was dogged, all felt great. I enjoyed the climbs and the struggle up some of them. The best was a powerful, short 6b which took me a few goes. Small fall today when a hold broke off but I wasn’t particularly fussed. I am particularly grateful for all the support and advice people have given me about all aspects of climbing but especially the head stuff as it is coming together bit by bit. My climbing and life partner has been especially wise and patient and for this I am very, very grateful. He is awesome. We are now decorated in gold tattoos ready for Monday’s send-fest.
Sun: rest in Benidorm, the place of dreams.
I am getting it on in Spain big time BOOM!
Mon: rest day - did an excellent classic multi-pitch climb, Parle. The abseil in is down through a large hole into mid air looking out to the sea. I lead the first and third pitch. Although there were a couple of bits where I paused for thought all in all I felt good leading.
Tues: Went to Sella and spent a lot of time trying to second an over-hanging 7a. Found it pretty hard going but a fun challenge. Should probably just lead this kind of climb, trying to unclip on an overhang and then coming off, swinging out and not being able to get back on is hard work! Had a go at leading La Cosa (7a) which I top-roped last year. Got chicken and ditched after the third clip. Would quite like to have another go if we go back there although I have said that about every climb that I haven’t done clean this trip.
Weds: Rest
Thurs: Gandia. This place is great. We worked a 7a and 7a+ which were next to each other. The 7a was nails, found the overhanging, powery beginning very hard so I had to get my superhero cape out. The 7a+ seemed more inline with my strengths although haven’t managed the crux yet which is right up near the anchor. Will be going back to these this week.
Fri: Trad, 5 pitch climb in Vall de Guadar. Pretty frustrating first pitch as I got stuck on one bit and got quite annoyed. I think I started swearing at the rock and then just jumped off. Although that pitch was in my bad books I got my positivity back for the rest of the climb and had a good day out. Was a little disappointed that I didn’t try harder but will remember and improve next time. I think my on sighting skills could be improved ;p
Sat: Such a good day for me at Guadalest. I led 6 climbs, two were red-points and one was dogged, all felt great. I enjoyed the climbs and the struggle up some of them. The best was a powerful, short 6b which took me a few goes. Small fall today when a hold broke off but I wasn’t particularly fussed. I am particularly grateful for all the support and advice people have given me about all aspects of climbing but especially the head stuff as it is coming together bit by bit. My climbing and life partner has been especially wise and patient and for this I am very, very grateful. He is awesome. We are now decorated in gold tattoos ready for Monday’s send-fest.
Sun: rest in Benidorm, the place of dreams.
4
In reply to guy127917:
I probably don't really follow any single one. I tend to do either lattice rung one hand 5sec tests or "count of ten" (~13s?) two handed hangs on things (rails and 35 degree slopers currently, although I might mix in some pockets some point) on the bm2k. I think I'll try some longer hangs on the lattice edge this winter as it's a bit less aggressive than the bm2k rails in finger position, and maybe try to drop to actual 10s for the longer hangs. I start off at an easy weight and just keep going upwards really, with big long rests, and if last times PB becomes a sub max hang this time that's great and if not it's consolidation. I always measure the total weight to strip out bodyweight variance.
Last week's stg was to catch up on sleep. So Monday and Tuesday I did nothing.
Wednesday - fingerboard. 35s just weren't happening. Little rails were good though - about 1kg and 1sec short of my best score from my last strength phase, maybe 6 months ago. Psyched by that. Tendon felt a bit achey afterwards, although definitely not in a pulley way, but a sign I should tilt the balance to some open hand stuff and maybe some of those weights I keep skipping. Back at near pb already is good so best not to get greedy.
Thursday - rest.
Friday - day off work so off to Portland. Solid session on Force Majeure (f7B). Best effort as seen here https://www.instagram.com/p/BbmN4Q6HtL5/ . The match on which I fell is the last really hard move, there's a pop up to the next holds but it rapidly eases after that.
Saturday/Sunday - social weekend so rest although some regression against stg due to being away and being up later than usual and things.
Away again next weekend then 3 in a row at home which will be good. Try to do structure this week a bit more and find a way to squeeze some training in around a weekend at home. Unlikely to get outside.
> AJM: Which fingerboard strength protocol are you going with?
I probably don't really follow any single one. I tend to do either lattice rung one hand 5sec tests or "count of ten" (~13s?) two handed hangs on things (rails and 35 degree slopers currently, although I might mix in some pockets some point) on the bm2k. I think I'll try some longer hangs on the lattice edge this winter as it's a bit less aggressive than the bm2k rails in finger position, and maybe try to drop to actual 10s for the longer hangs. I start off at an easy weight and just keep going upwards really, with big long rests, and if last times PB becomes a sub max hang this time that's great and if not it's consolidation. I always measure the total weight to strip out bodyweight variance.
Last week's stg was to catch up on sleep. So Monday and Tuesday I did nothing.
Wednesday - fingerboard. 35s just weren't happening. Little rails were good though - about 1kg and 1sec short of my best score from my last strength phase, maybe 6 months ago. Psyched by that. Tendon felt a bit achey afterwards, although definitely not in a pulley way, but a sign I should tilt the balance to some open hand stuff and maybe some of those weights I keep skipping. Back at near pb already is good so best not to get greedy.
Thursday - rest.
Friday - day off work so off to Portland. Solid session on Force Majeure (f7B). Best effort as seen here https://www.instagram.com/p/BbmN4Q6HtL5/ . The match on which I fell is the last really hard move, there's a pop up to the next holds but it rapidly eases after that.
Saturday/Sunday - social weekend so rest although some regression against stg due to being away and being up later than usual and things.
Away again next weekend then 3 in a row at home which will be good. Try to do structure this week a bit more and find a way to squeeze some training in around a weekend at home. Unlikely to get outside.
1
In reply to guy127917:
Monday: Parle - 3 pitch 6a+ with mega abseil as a sort of rest day. Not sure it had desired effect.
Tuesday: Sella. Failed to retro flash Si te dicen que caí (7a) and then failed on attempts 2 and 3. Gave up and did a couple of easier pitches O/S including Tú dirás (6b) which I enjoyed.
Wednesday: Proper rest day hanging out in Benidorm.
Thursday: Gandia by Tyler/AJM recommendation. Got on L'os (7a) which is great. Did all the moves bolt to bolt putting the draws in and felt pretty good about it. I then completely forgot how to do the steep start moves which I didn't find that hard the first time- I got really confused and annoyed at myself over a few tie ins but eventually worked it out again. Watched an older chap rock up and flash it, so decided I'd better buck my idea's up and send it. Got through the steep section ok, but fairly pumped, and failed to recover at the rest enough to stick the middle section. I'd also not paid enough attention to the beta for the middle moves. I'm fairly confident I can finish this off tomorrow. I was fairly bummed not to send it that day though.
Friday: 5 pitch E1 Echo Valley Through the Looking Glass (6a), just for fun, and I did really enjoy it. Felt pretty cruiser.
Saturday: Guadalest- failed to onsight two 6bs and failed to tick a 6c after three attempts. Not a good day, majorly bummed at how this trip is going. Fingers shredded. Only silver lining was forcing myself to actually take a couple of lead falls.
Sunday: Rest day. Much needed, mentally as much as anything. I haven't ticked anything of note (to me) yet, and what's worse is I don't feel like I've given my all to the redpoint attempts I've had. Excuses in my head have ranged from 'I can come back next week', 'the bolts are too far apart to prevent a ground fall' to 'this isn't a specific goal anyway'. To be honest I'm struggling on the steep stuff- not because of strength, but because of mental stuff. I have to think faster than on the more relaxed gradients and be more committed. I think the answer on this trip is visualising routes before the RP and really committing. When back I need to train more regularly on steeper routes!
My goals for the remainder of the trip (ie 5 days) are to rp L'os (7a) and Si te dicen que caí (7a). Assuming we have time spare my next goal would be to o/s 6c.
One other area I think has gone well so far is nutrition- I've replaced my normal highly refined carbs crag food with boiled eggs, cottage cheese, rice cakes, avocado, and bananas and it's working well to keep hunger and energy levels nice and steady.
Monday: Parle - 3 pitch 6a+ with mega abseil as a sort of rest day. Not sure it had desired effect.
Tuesday: Sella. Failed to retro flash Si te dicen que caí (7a) and then failed on attempts 2 and 3. Gave up and did a couple of easier pitches O/S including Tú dirás (6b) which I enjoyed.
Wednesday: Proper rest day hanging out in Benidorm.
Thursday: Gandia by Tyler/AJM recommendation. Got on L'os (7a) which is great. Did all the moves bolt to bolt putting the draws in and felt pretty good about it. I then completely forgot how to do the steep start moves which I didn't find that hard the first time- I got really confused and annoyed at myself over a few tie ins but eventually worked it out again. Watched an older chap rock up and flash it, so decided I'd better buck my idea's up and send it. Got through the steep section ok, but fairly pumped, and failed to recover at the rest enough to stick the middle section. I'd also not paid enough attention to the beta for the middle moves. I'm fairly confident I can finish this off tomorrow. I was fairly bummed not to send it that day though.
Friday: 5 pitch E1 Echo Valley Through the Looking Glass (6a), just for fun, and I did really enjoy it. Felt pretty cruiser.
Saturday: Guadalest- failed to onsight two 6bs and failed to tick a 6c after three attempts. Not a good day, majorly bummed at how this trip is going. Fingers shredded. Only silver lining was forcing myself to actually take a couple of lead falls.
Sunday: Rest day. Much needed, mentally as much as anything. I haven't ticked anything of note (to me) yet, and what's worse is I don't feel like I've given my all to the redpoint attempts I've had. Excuses in my head have ranged from 'I can come back next week', 'the bolts are too far apart to prevent a ground fall' to 'this isn't a specific goal anyway'. To be honest I'm struggling on the steep stuff- not because of strength, but because of mental stuff. I have to think faster than on the more relaxed gradients and be more committed. I think the answer on this trip is visualising routes before the RP and really committing. When back I need to train more regularly on steeper routes!
My goals for the remainder of the trip (ie 5 days) are to rp L'os (7a) and Si te dicen que caí (7a). Assuming we have time spare my next goal would be to o/s 6c.
One other area I think has gone well so far is nutrition- I've replaced my normal highly refined carbs crag food with boiled eggs, cottage cheese, rice cakes, avocado, and bananas and it's working well to keep hunger and energy levels nice and steady.
4
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. Another day of perfect grit conditions again today, but unfortunately I didn't quite take advantage like last week.
2017:
- Fix my finger injury
- Shoulder/core training: 3 sessions per week while I'm unable to pull at max power on my fingers (and while I'm heavy!)
January-March 2018:
- do a grit 7B or two over the winter
- weight down to 11 stone 4
April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse
M: Fingerboard max hangs and shoulder exercises. Not a huge session but hung up to bw + 27 kg on the 18mm edge. My pb is bw + 34 kg but I think I was probably about 5 kg lighter then, so this is pretty good - finger almost fully better as long as I warm up well.
T: rest
W: rest
T: half a shoulder workout (usual TRX exercises).
F: rest
S: rest
S: got out for 3 hours bouldering at Stanage. Mostly trying Zippy's Traverse (f7B), quite close but no cigar.
Midweek lack of effort down to feeling ropey from lack of sleep.
Si
> Si dH: Congrats on the 7B tick,
Thanks Guy. Another day of perfect grit conditions again today, but unfortunately I didn't quite take advantage like last week.
2017:
- Fix my finger injury
- Shoulder/core training: 3 sessions per week while I'm unable to pull at max power on my fingers (and while I'm heavy!)
January-March 2018:
- do a grit 7B or two over the winter
- weight down to 11 stone 4
April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse
M: Fingerboard max hangs and shoulder exercises. Not a huge session but hung up to bw + 27 kg on the 18mm edge. My pb is bw + 34 kg but I think I was probably about 5 kg lighter then, so this is pretty good - finger almost fully better as long as I warm up well.
T: rest
W: rest
T: half a shoulder workout (usual TRX exercises).
F: rest
S: rest
S: got out for 3 hours bouldering at Stanage. Mostly trying Zippy's Traverse (f7B), quite close but no cigar.
Midweek lack of effort down to feeling ropey from lack of sleep.
Si
Post edited at 17:07
1
In reply to guy127917:
thanks Guy. I'll do a very brief summary of the previous week first:
T - FB
W - session with Tom Powell, the specialist head games coach. Got some excellent tips for reducing anxiety
T - TCA boulder session, but nothing too extreme just before a trip
Then trip itself. Fair to say it was mixed, with team psyche somewhat affected by some external factors plus we didn't always make the best decisions on crag choice, as judged with 20:20 hindsight!
S - very early start to fly to spain. Crag was hot but not ridiculously so. Lower grade bimbling to 6c.
S - went to a shaded crag which to our surprise was concretion and seriously weird. 6c+ OS. Tried a 7a which turned out to be nothing like the rockfax description (no way had they climbed it!), dangerously crumbly on the arete and a total sandbag. Not the 2* route I had been promised in the slightest.
M - Mula, a fantastic crag. Started working a super steep 7b.
T - rest day
W - back to Mula. Clip to clip to refine the sequence then 3 blasts on the 7b, got the tick. 1st time a small bit of my sequence turned out to not be practical in the flow (too powerful) so worked out a far better way. 2nd time duffed up the final move by deciding to ignore a hold. 3rd time it flowed beautifully, was hardly having to think, glorious.
T - back to crag from the 1st day, hoping to try another 7b. Don't know what was different but today it was so hot as to be almost unclimbable. Had a TR play on a '7a+' which the sign-board said was 7c. Really badly bolted and we couldn't work out any viable sequence for the middle section. Panicked on a 6c which was slippery holds and super polished feet with ground-fall potential at the 3rd bolt. Not a great day.
F - different crag which was a pig to find but had shade at the bottom. Struggled up 2 indecently hard and very long 6b+ routes, then DNFed a 6c+. Went to get an icecream. Flew home.
S - rest
S - rest
So a mixed bag. I would recommend Mula as a great venue (esp for anyone climbing in the 7s), the other crags far less so. The grading seemed very tough, the route quality highly variable and some of the bolting was atrocious. Quite a few of the routes would have been good 30 years ago but the extreme polish and hot conditions ruined them. However I am coming round to the concept of ultra steep, esp if I can get the start of the route totally dialled - on the 7b I had to use 3 heel hooks in a row but they worked like a dream so what had felt super-dicey first go was smooth and safe.
thanks Guy. I'll do a very brief summary of the previous week first:
T - FB
W - session with Tom Powell, the specialist head games coach. Got some excellent tips for reducing anxiety
T - TCA boulder session, but nothing too extreme just before a trip
Then trip itself. Fair to say it was mixed, with team psyche somewhat affected by some external factors plus we didn't always make the best decisions on crag choice, as judged with 20:20 hindsight!
S - very early start to fly to spain. Crag was hot but not ridiculously so. Lower grade bimbling to 6c.
S - went to a shaded crag which to our surprise was concretion and seriously weird. 6c+ OS. Tried a 7a which turned out to be nothing like the rockfax description (no way had they climbed it!), dangerously crumbly on the arete and a total sandbag. Not the 2* route I had been promised in the slightest.
M - Mula, a fantastic crag. Started working a super steep 7b.
T - rest day
W - back to Mula. Clip to clip to refine the sequence then 3 blasts on the 7b, got the tick. 1st time a small bit of my sequence turned out to not be practical in the flow (too powerful) so worked out a far better way. 2nd time duffed up the final move by deciding to ignore a hold. 3rd time it flowed beautifully, was hardly having to think, glorious.
T - back to crag from the 1st day, hoping to try another 7b. Don't know what was different but today it was so hot as to be almost unclimbable. Had a TR play on a '7a+' which the sign-board said was 7c. Really badly bolted and we couldn't work out any viable sequence for the middle section. Panicked on a 6c which was slippery holds and super polished feet with ground-fall potential at the 3rd bolt. Not a great day.
F - different crag which was a pig to find but had shade at the bottom. Struggled up 2 indecently hard and very long 6b+ routes, then DNFed a 6c+. Went to get an icecream. Flew home.
S - rest
S - rest
So a mixed bag. I would recommend Mula as a great venue (esp for anyone climbing in the 7s), the other crags far less so. The grading seemed very tough, the route quality highly variable and some of the bolting was atrocious. Quite a few of the routes would have been good 30 years ago but the extreme polish and hot conditions ruined them. However I am coming round to the concept of ultra steep, esp if I can get the start of the route totally dialled - on the 7b I had to use 3 heel hooks in a row but they worked like a dream so what had felt super-dicey first go was smooth and safe.
Post edited at 17:18
3
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers guy, nice to see you having fun abroad too - hope the project goes.
So -a really difficult week body wise but today ticked the only problem I really wanted here in Bleau, a high 5C slab that I tried three years ago in the summer. I'm happy.
Decided on a complete change of tack of training here, the physio goes really well but it's obvious I can't pull hard with the shoulder and the knee is a loose balloon - Salbit training then. Volume. Big multipitch don't climb themselves and cracking on when you're tired, sore and knackered does.
Physio goes well, rolling, stretching and mobility everyday.
Mon - Bois Rond. 6½hr no rests or food. Some oranges, flashed some blues and then tried blues and reds I knew I probably couldn't do. Just kept going and going. Longest I've ever bouldered I think.
Tue - Cuvier & Bellevue. Pull on, body screamed no - rest day. Learning to listen Coach Kettle's traffic light warning system. Red today.
Wed - Touched my toes with locked knees for the first time ever! Couldn't do this when I was a youth. Apremont Desert. 4hrs solid. Did maybe 20 yellows, this is a stupid graded yellow circuit. Really bad conditions too. Lapped one of them 10 times as the top out was hard for me. Ticked a couple of orange, spanked on blues and gave max effort on overhanging 6B & C. Apart from the 112km ultra, never been so broken after sport. Even after hard rugby matches. Completely mullered. Salbit Salbit Salbit. Knee like a huge balloon.
Thu - Franchard Haute Plaenes. Two yellows, tried three orange and then the arms, both, from shoulder to fingers had full blown cramp. Totally tw*tted for an hour. Couldn't even open my water bottle. Rest day. In reflection, should have known to rest.
Fri - Slight rain, much fog, so rest. Had a great physio session, explored Font, felt strong but then a stomach virus hit two of us. Guts still falling out at 5am and no sleep.
Sat - Rocher du Duc. Felt like the proverbial after a night of the proverbial. Got on a blue, feet have improved. Tried a couple of 6As but I was kaput really.
Sun - JAMartin. A dash for the bushes within minutes of getting there, weak as sin and only two blue problems done. Happily one was a project from three years ago - a high slab I tried in the summer sunshine on the way to Swizzy. Took two big falls due to the bad knee not being stable, with one a good bash to the back of the head on a rock. Saved by the dread bun, put on the articulated knee brace and went to get my friends to spot - ticked. Friends, commitment and conditions. Two guides say 5C, online 5B, one guide says 5A I've just realised and I'll take that happily - Bleau slabs make their own sense.
Kelvin v body. I think I won in the end. Mon and Wed were brutal, instead of resting between goes I went and found oranges to flash
My thinking behind this - all the good climbers I know have huge amounts of volume under their belts. Sure, not resting meant I didn't tick things I could have but I climbed, climbed a lot and it was tough, which the mountains always are. I've honestly never, apart from the ultra, been so battered after sport as I was on Wednesday. We went shopping after and I sat on a bench in ATAC behind the tills unable to move, just wanting to be teleported to Larchant. It was beautiful, the best pain you can feel.
Just enjoyed meat and three veg, cake and beer - hopefully tomorrow I'll feel stronger.
BHAG - Salbit West Ridge
Cheers guy, nice to see you having fun abroad too - hope the project goes.
So -a really difficult week body wise but today ticked the only problem I really wanted here in Bleau, a high 5C slab that I tried three years ago in the summer. I'm happy.
Decided on a complete change of tack of training here, the physio goes really well but it's obvious I can't pull hard with the shoulder and the knee is a loose balloon - Salbit training then. Volume. Big multipitch don't climb themselves and cracking on when you're tired, sore and knackered does.
Physio goes well, rolling, stretching and mobility everyday.
Mon - Bois Rond. 6½hr no rests or food. Some oranges, flashed some blues and then tried blues and reds I knew I probably couldn't do. Just kept going and going. Longest I've ever bouldered I think.
Tue - Cuvier & Bellevue. Pull on, body screamed no - rest day. Learning to listen Coach Kettle's traffic light warning system. Red today.
Wed - Touched my toes with locked knees for the first time ever! Couldn't do this when I was a youth. Apremont Desert. 4hrs solid. Did maybe 20 yellows, this is a stupid graded yellow circuit. Really bad conditions too. Lapped one of them 10 times as the top out was hard for me. Ticked a couple of orange, spanked on blues and gave max effort on overhanging 6B & C. Apart from the 112km ultra, never been so broken after sport. Even after hard rugby matches. Completely mullered. Salbit Salbit Salbit. Knee like a huge balloon.
Thu - Franchard Haute Plaenes. Two yellows, tried three orange and then the arms, both, from shoulder to fingers had full blown cramp. Totally tw*tted for an hour. Couldn't even open my water bottle. Rest day. In reflection, should have known to rest.
Fri - Slight rain, much fog, so rest. Had a great physio session, explored Font, felt strong but then a stomach virus hit two of us. Guts still falling out at 5am and no sleep.
Sat - Rocher du Duc. Felt like the proverbial after a night of the proverbial. Got on a blue, feet have improved. Tried a couple of 6As but I was kaput really.
Sun - JAMartin. A dash for the bushes within minutes of getting there, weak as sin and only two blue problems done. Happily one was a project from three years ago - a high slab I tried in the summer sunshine on the way to Swizzy. Took two big falls due to the bad knee not being stable, with one a good bash to the back of the head on a rock. Saved by the dread bun, put on the articulated knee brace and went to get my friends to spot - ticked. Friends, commitment and conditions. Two guides say 5C, online 5B, one guide says 5A I've just realised and I'll take that happily - Bleau slabs make their own sense.
Kelvin v body. I think I won in the end. Mon and Wed were brutal, instead of resting between goes I went and found oranges to flash
My thinking behind this - all the good climbers I know have huge amounts of volume under their belts. Sure, not resting meant I didn't tick things I could have but I climbed, climbed a lot and it was tough, which the mountains always are. I've honestly never, apart from the ultra, been so battered after sport as I was on Wednesday. We went shopping after and I sat on a bench in ATAC behind the tills unable to move, just wanting to be teleported to Larchant. It was beautiful, the best pain you can feel.
Just enjoyed meat and three veg, cake and beer - hopefully tomorrow I'll feel stronger.
BHAG - Salbit West Ridge
Post edited at 20:25
4
In reply to AJM:
And just watched the reel rock tour hit Poole which was excellent, some cool films with good footage and some excellent inspiration.
> Saturday/Sunday - social weekend so rest although some regression against stg due to being away and being up later than usual and things
And just watched the reel rock tour hit Poole which was excellent, some cool films with good footage and some excellent inspiration.
In reply to guy127917:
M: Rest
T: BUK did some problems.
W: BUK with the Best Climber in the Village and bumped into Nomics, both formerly of this parish. I tried to persuade them both to rejoin fit club but they weren't having it. I felt knackered and didn't do any FO campusing.
T: Couldn't face BUK so went to the house of pain, more social than anything
F: Kendal Mountain Festival
S: KMF
S: Boulder UK, enjoyed it. Managed 3 V5s I couldn't do earlier in the week, still some holding out. Good FO campusing - 1:25, 55, 35, 25 then a not so good set....
M: Rest
T: BUK did some problems.
W: BUK with the Best Climber in the Village and bumped into Nomics, both formerly of this parish. I tried to persuade them both to rejoin fit club but they weren't having it. I felt knackered and didn't do any FO campusing.
T: Couldn't face BUK so went to the house of pain, more social than anything
F: Kendal Mountain Festival
S: KMF
S: Boulder UK, enjoyed it. Managed 3 V5s I couldn't do earlier in the week, still some holding out. Good FO campusing - 1:25, 55, 35, 25 then a not so good set....
In reply to guy127917:
As it turns out I'm not going to find out. Was at Boulderwelt with the lad yesterday, and failed on the walk past the bouldering upstairs to the weights room. Also the weather forecast for next weekend looks ok.
STG (a): Rest from climbing specific activity for the rest of November. Failed see above
STG (b): Shoulder & elbow rehab exercises at least 3x per week. Only twice this week: must do better.
STG (c): regain the ability to do a left leg pistol. Ongoing.
MTG: decide on a goal for Font at Easter & plan late spring Kalymnos trip
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: Rest day.
T: Two rest days. Really pushing the boat out now. (Was going to bike to work but freezing fog; did a modest amount of massage, foam rolling & stretching for shoulders & elbows)
W: Bike one hour. Hotaches ouch ouch ouch - need to dig the warmer gloves out of the bottom of the cupboard.
Boulderwelt with my son. No bouldering: shoulder, elbow, core, pistol progressions in the weights room.
T: Stair climbing at work. 3x40 stories, 27:34. Nearly a minute faster than last week, hurrah.
F: Bike 1½ hours. Thicker gloves: better.
S: Rest day.
S: Boulderwelt with my son. Weakened in the face of the tedium of the weights room; bouldered. A bit.
> AlanLittle: Sounds like a good plan to prioritise your rehab. A month sounds like quite a long time, how much reversal of finger strength do you anticipate in that period.
As it turns out I'm not going to find out. Was at Boulderwelt with the lad yesterday, and failed on the walk past the bouldering upstairs to the weights room. Also the weather forecast for next weekend looks ok.
STG (a): Rest from climbing specific activity for the rest of November. Failed see above
STG (b): Shoulder & elbow rehab exercises at least 3x per week. Only twice this week: must do better.
STG (c): regain the ability to do a left leg pistol. Ongoing.
MTG: decide on a goal for Font at Easter & plan late spring Kalymnos trip
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: Rest day.
T: Two rest days. Really pushing the boat out now. (Was going to bike to work but freezing fog; did a modest amount of massage, foam rolling & stretching for shoulders & elbows)
W: Bike one hour. Hotaches ouch ouch ouch - need to dig the warmer gloves out of the bottom of the cupboard.
Boulderwelt with my son. No bouldering: shoulder, elbow, core, pistol progressions in the weights room.
T: Stair climbing at work. 3x40 stories, 27:34. Nearly a minute faster than last week, hurrah.
F: Bike 1½ hours. Thicker gloves: better.
S: Rest day.
S: Boulderwelt with my son. Weakened in the face of the tedium of the weights room; bouldered. A bit.
In reply to mrchewy:
Volume?
Follow the wise words of jwi...
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,28009.0.html
Volume?
Follow the wise words of jwi...
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,28009.0.html
1
In reply to AlanLittle:
Hmmmm.
Usual caveats apply!
(My elbow is also a bit dicky.)
Hmmmm.
Usual caveats apply!
(My elbow is also a bit dicky.)
Post edited at 09:15
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy, yeah perhaps I was expecting something that had never really been promised by the book, however that doesn't excuse the almost unreadable sentence structure which would ruin even the best of books. Jerry had help with Revelations from Grimer and it's a fantastically readable book, I think he took on the whole job himself on Mastermind and it's just not his forte.
A pretty decent week overall, I'd say there has been a net gain in elbow recovery since last week, although the inexplicable nature of what helps and what doesn't remains as shrouded in mystery and randomness as ever!
The intense chin-up lock offs seem to have lost their efficacy at improving the elbow massively overnight, although they feel less painful to do in general which is still a positive step. Pacing myself when climbing doesn't seem to bear any correlation to elbow improvement, although perhaps i'm being a pansy as twice this week I felt I pushed things a bit hard and both occasions resulted in improvement the following day...
M: Handstands - getting back into these and the balance element feels pretty good considering it's been 6 months or more since I did one. Shoulders get tired very fast though, lots of improvement be had here.
T: Lock-offs
W: Indoor Boulder comp - 25 problems aimed more at improvers than pros so lots of mid range problems to enjoy. Did my best to leave my ego at home and favour my elbow, I did try a couple of harder problems but bailed at the first sign of any effort required. It was a hard set though with a big step between do-able and not do-able problems for me, I think if I had been fully fit i'd not have scored much more! Somehow managed 6th or 7th which I thought was pretty good going. Elbow felt worked but seemed happy the next day.
T: Indoor boulder - Took a noob from work and pretty much just watched him climb and demo'd some easy problems for him. I did have a random, barely warmed up pull on the lattice edge and was very pleased to still be able to comfortably do a 5sec bodyweight hang, still a bit of strength in there!
F: Went to see Huffy the Physio for a free ultrasound as part of his masters degree, we got a whole hour to explore the insides of my elbows which was equal parts gross and fascinating. Seeing my bones move against each other as I rotate my wrist was bizarre, as was seeing an artery pulsing in cross-section, eww.
We found a small tear in the tendon, about 3mm in length, but with healthy tissue either side of it, so Huffy is happy that my current rehab activities are on the money.
Drove up to Sheffield in the evening.
S: We went to Cratcliffe, the weather was pretty decent, if a little fresh in the more exposed areas. Pootled around on various slabs learning how my feet work, then managed to find elbow-friendly beta for Razor Roof (f6C) which was good fun. We then did every variation we could think of for Egg Arête (f6B) which was interesting. Jason had unfinished business with T Crack 7B (which I can't seem to link to) which he polished off easily in 2 goes, with a big campus lunge in the middle. We then worked out very different beta with more heel hooking to favour my elbow which meant I was able to actually put in some effort and very nearly got the tick!
It seemed so unlikely to find such a hard problem that I could really go full-bore at, but it was great to be able to try hard on something.
I ached all over the following day, so what i've taken from this is that whilst I might be conditioned to hard training sessions in the gym, i'm not well prepared for repeatedly working the same hard moves on natural, not perfectly aligned holds. My indoor sessions are basically designed to spread the load over my whole body, and it's done on holds specifically placed for the job so this was a real shock, the difference between fitness and 'rock fitness' perhaps?
I also eyed up Jerry's Traverse (f7B) which looks like a lot of fun, one to come back to when I have working elbows perhaps...
S: Nothing, drive home.
More of the same this week coming, keep things steady and hope for elbow improvement. It feels super good today so i'll do chin-up lock-offs tonight and do my best not to go overboard on Tuesday at the wall.
> Dandan82: Agree with your analysis of the start of mastermind- but I wasn’t disappointed (mainly because Jen bought it). I think it’s just supposed to be a set of cues to get you thinking rather than a Rock Warriors Way style thesis/framework?
Cheers Guy, yeah perhaps I was expecting something that had never really been promised by the book, however that doesn't excuse the almost unreadable sentence structure which would ruin even the best of books. Jerry had help with Revelations from Grimer and it's a fantastically readable book, I think he took on the whole job himself on Mastermind and it's just not his forte.
A pretty decent week overall, I'd say there has been a net gain in elbow recovery since last week, although the inexplicable nature of what helps and what doesn't remains as shrouded in mystery and randomness as ever!
The intense chin-up lock offs seem to have lost their efficacy at improving the elbow massively overnight, although they feel less painful to do in general which is still a positive step. Pacing myself when climbing doesn't seem to bear any correlation to elbow improvement, although perhaps i'm being a pansy as twice this week I felt I pushed things a bit hard and both occasions resulted in improvement the following day...
M: Handstands - getting back into these and the balance element feels pretty good considering it's been 6 months or more since I did one. Shoulders get tired very fast though, lots of improvement be had here.
T: Lock-offs
W: Indoor Boulder comp - 25 problems aimed more at improvers than pros so lots of mid range problems to enjoy. Did my best to leave my ego at home and favour my elbow, I did try a couple of harder problems but bailed at the first sign of any effort required. It was a hard set though with a big step between do-able and not do-able problems for me, I think if I had been fully fit i'd not have scored much more! Somehow managed 6th or 7th which I thought was pretty good going. Elbow felt worked but seemed happy the next day.
T: Indoor boulder - Took a noob from work and pretty much just watched him climb and demo'd some easy problems for him. I did have a random, barely warmed up pull on the lattice edge and was very pleased to still be able to comfortably do a 5sec bodyweight hang, still a bit of strength in there!
F: Went to see Huffy the Physio for a free ultrasound as part of his masters degree, we got a whole hour to explore the insides of my elbows which was equal parts gross and fascinating. Seeing my bones move against each other as I rotate my wrist was bizarre, as was seeing an artery pulsing in cross-section, eww.
We found a small tear in the tendon, about 3mm in length, but with healthy tissue either side of it, so Huffy is happy that my current rehab activities are on the money.
Drove up to Sheffield in the evening.
S: We went to Cratcliffe, the weather was pretty decent, if a little fresh in the more exposed areas. Pootled around on various slabs learning how my feet work, then managed to find elbow-friendly beta for Razor Roof (f6C) which was good fun. We then did every variation we could think of for Egg Arête (f6B) which was interesting. Jason had unfinished business with T Crack 7B (which I can't seem to link to) which he polished off easily in 2 goes, with a big campus lunge in the middle. We then worked out very different beta with more heel hooking to favour my elbow which meant I was able to actually put in some effort and very nearly got the tick!
It seemed so unlikely to find such a hard problem that I could really go full-bore at, but it was great to be able to try hard on something.
I ached all over the following day, so what i've taken from this is that whilst I might be conditioned to hard training sessions in the gym, i'm not well prepared for repeatedly working the same hard moves on natural, not perfectly aligned holds. My indoor sessions are basically designed to spread the load over my whole body, and it's done on holds specifically placed for the job so this was a real shock, the difference between fitness and 'rock fitness' perhaps?
I also eyed up Jerry's Traverse (f7B) which looks like a lot of fun, one to come back to when I have working elbows perhaps...
S: Nothing, drive home.
More of the same this week coming, keep things steady and hope for elbow improvement. It feels super good today so i'll do chin-up lock-offs tonight and do my best not to go overboard on Tuesday at the wall.
4
In reply to Tyler:
Good FO campusing - 1:25, 55, 35, 25 then a not so good set....
I have found that the numbers can crash out at the very end of a FOC session if psyche and associated pain tolerance disappears - have you thought about doing this at the start of a session to get some numbers from fresh arms/pain free skin?
Good FO campusing - 1:25, 55, 35, 25 then a not so good set....
I have found that the numbers can crash out at the very end of a FOC session if psyche and associated pain tolerance disappears - have you thought about doing this at the start of a session to get some numbers from fresh arms/pain free skin?
In reply to guy127917:
Bouldering at <5C is all about quick efforts interspersed with huddling in downie and rockboots tucked in arm-pits to keep everything warm. A thermos/jet-boil/hot-water bottle all help too - like a lot of climbing, learning the right tactics is half the battle.
The lady has had a nasty cold all week, which somehow i've managed to avoid getting; very glad, as this has allowed me to continue to up the climbing and training volume, and despite some shoulder and finger aches, everything feels under control.
Week 47
M - Tor after dark. Not as cold as last week, but left middle finger went white, then purple – I must have burst a blood vessel. ? This explains the tenderness I’d experienced since Saturday, and very thankful it's not a repeat of Easter '17 pulley issue. Tried Killerweed a couple of times – real nemesis considering how hard I find Weedkiller and it’s shallow slots (fat fingers – cry me a river). I will need some specific cave fitness/power and up the core strength/stamina for this and other cave link-ups I want to do...
T - Prehab session #2. Warm-up, then 5 rounds barbell complex with 25kg; 10x sumo-deadlift, 10x squat, 10x OHP (hard), 15 sit-ups, 10x reverse flys. Very hot and sweaty! Second circuit of 32kg x10 1-arm lat row, 7/3/6/3 repeater (BM2K-AA or middle-2), 15 press-ups, external rotator cuff x15, x6 = shoulders like jelly. 40s on/20s off x6 high/low dish, 3x100 crucnhies.
W - Rest. Pec, lat & hamstring DOMS getting worse throughout the day.
T - AWS. Warm-up, an-cap triples (working from memory I cocked up the timings and got far more pumped than I should have) 2x 10min aero-cap continuity blocks on auto-belays – need some harder/longer routes. Drove home then 3x20 squats and 3x30 press-ups to try and burn off caffeine at 10pm.
F - Foam roller & stretching
S - Cave session #1. Wetter than expected. Repeats up to 7A+ whilst warming up. Then worked The Wire (like Dan, can't link). Found some good beta for the transition from Lou to Broken Heart and did my biggest ever link on this section. Lap of LW and kneebar sit-ups to finish. Then Jerry Moffatt lecture in the Beacon and late night drive home.
S - Most of the day taken up by DIY club and grandparent pub lunch. Prehab session #2.5 @8pm. 30x theraband reverse flys, 15x TRX flys, 20x TRX ab roll-outs, 20x TRX low-rows (to waist), 15x TRX press-ups; all x3. 40/20/6 low/hi dish. 40/20/6 calf raises. Stretching.
Keen to up the an-cap training this week whilst the weather look poo; time to get involved with the Depot 45 and Boardroom Mon board...?
Bouldering at <5C is all about quick efforts interspersed with huddling in downie and rockboots tucked in arm-pits to keep everything warm. A thermos/jet-boil/hot-water bottle all help too - like a lot of climbing, learning the right tactics is half the battle.
The lady has had a nasty cold all week, which somehow i've managed to avoid getting; very glad, as this has allowed me to continue to up the climbing and training volume, and despite some shoulder and finger aches, everything feels under control.
Week 47
M - Tor after dark. Not as cold as last week, but left middle finger went white, then purple – I must have burst a blood vessel. ? This explains the tenderness I’d experienced since Saturday, and very thankful it's not a repeat of Easter '17 pulley issue. Tried Killerweed a couple of times – real nemesis considering how hard I find Weedkiller and it’s shallow slots (fat fingers – cry me a river). I will need some specific cave fitness/power and up the core strength/stamina for this and other cave link-ups I want to do...
T - Prehab session #2. Warm-up, then 5 rounds barbell complex with 25kg; 10x sumo-deadlift, 10x squat, 10x OHP (hard), 15 sit-ups, 10x reverse flys. Very hot and sweaty! Second circuit of 32kg x10 1-arm lat row, 7/3/6/3 repeater (BM2K-AA or middle-2), 15 press-ups, external rotator cuff x15, x6 = shoulders like jelly. 40s on/20s off x6 high/low dish, 3x100 crucnhies.
W - Rest. Pec, lat & hamstring DOMS getting worse throughout the day.
T - AWS. Warm-up, an-cap triples (working from memory I cocked up the timings and got far more pumped than I should have) 2x 10min aero-cap continuity blocks on auto-belays – need some harder/longer routes. Drove home then 3x20 squats and 3x30 press-ups to try and burn off caffeine at 10pm.
F - Foam roller & stretching
S - Cave session #1. Wetter than expected. Repeats up to 7A+ whilst warming up. Then worked The Wire (like Dan, can't link). Found some good beta for the transition from Lou to Broken Heart and did my biggest ever link on this section. Lap of LW and kneebar sit-ups to finish. Then Jerry Moffatt lecture in the Beacon and late night drive home.
S - Most of the day taken up by DIY club and grandparent pub lunch. Prehab session #2.5 @8pm. 30x theraband reverse flys, 15x TRX flys, 20x TRX ab roll-outs, 20x TRX low-rows (to waist), 15x TRX press-ups; all x3. 40/20/6 low/hi dish. 40/20/6 calf raises. Stretching.
Keen to up the an-cap training this week whilst the weather look poo; time to get involved with the Depot 45 and Boardroom Mon board...?
In reply to Ally Smith:
As it happens I do have some questions regarding the FO campusing.
I've never thought about doing it early in a session as it would leave me too boxed to do anything else. One of the main reasons for doing it is so I can get some volume into a session and also it's the only measurable thing I do. My questions are really should I make it easier (i.e. do 1-2-3-4-5-6-5-4-3-2-1 rather than 1-3-6-3-1)and potentially go for longer? I've chosen the bigger moves as these are a weakness. I guess what I'm really after is avoiding wasted miles, at the moment I struggle to hit a minute on any of my reps and worried this leaves me in some sort of no mans land.
As it happens I do have some questions regarding the FO campusing.
I've never thought about doing it early in a session as it would leave me too boxed to do anything else. One of the main reasons for doing it is so I can get some volume into a session and also it's the only measurable thing I do. My questions are really should I make it easier (i.e. do 1-2-3-4-5-6-5-4-3-2-1 rather than 1-3-6-3-1)and potentially go for longer? I've chosen the bigger moves as these are a weakness. I guess what I'm really after is avoiding wasted miles, at the moment I struggle to hit a minute on any of my reps and worried this leaves me in some sort of no mans land.
In reply to Tyler:
The sequence I've always used for FOC is 1-3-5-5-3-2-1 which then means the next iteration leads with the other hand. I was moving my feet up too but Ally tutted at that!
The sequence I've always used for FOC is 1-3-5-5-3-2-1 which then means the next iteration leads with the other hand. I was moving my feet up too but Ally tutted at that!
1
In reply to hms:
Fortunately I don't need to move my feet but if it adds time for little extra effort maybe it's a way of gerrymandering my numbers to look better! Did you look at the science of any of this? I.e. is there a minimum amount of time a rep should last for it to be useful? I had considered smaller ladders on the way down to preserve my elbows.
Just realised I said 1-3-6 above, that's a mistake, I'm doing 1-3-5
Fortunately I don't need to move my feet but if it adds time for little extra effort maybe it's a way of gerrymandering my numbers to look better! Did you look at the science of any of this? I.e. is there a minimum amount of time a rep should last for it to be useful? I had considered smaller ladders on the way down to preserve my elbows.
Just realised I said 1-3-6 above, that's a mistake, I'm doing 1-3-5
Post edited at 11:27
1
In reply to Tyler:
Lattice have a specific 'ideal' rep time on their board, but that obviously does involve footwork too; 1.6s rings a bell so perhaps slightly less than that for FOC?
Lattice have a specific 'ideal' rep time on their board, but that obviously does involve footwork too; 1.6s rings a bell so perhaps slightly less than that for FOC?
1
In reply to seankenny:
Crocked shoulder tendon and skin used to outdoors (I've climbed maybe 20/30 times indoors in over two years) means I'd be lucky to get a 2hr session on a circuit board 5+.
Bleau and it's 25,000 problems, it's mountain circuits with mountain grades, all the colours of autumn - I'm more than happy here flapping around on oranges, blues and reds for a month.
I'm sure jwi would be too.
> Volume?
> Follow the wise words of jwi...
Crocked shoulder tendon and skin used to outdoors (I've climbed maybe 20/30 times indoors in over two years) means I'd be lucky to get a 2hr session on a circuit board 5+.
Bleau and it's 25,000 problems, it's mountain circuits with mountain grades, all the colours of autumn - I'm more than happy here flapping around on oranges, blues and reds for a month.
I'm sure jwi would be too.
In reply to guy127917:
Since I just had to google turkish getup, and also fear that it may result in pumpkin in face injury, that might be a no...
This week I have learnt that I need to adjust my attitude to sport climbing. I don't really do much as I prefer the thrill of trad/pushing myself on hard moves bouldering so it feels a little in between. But I tend to get 7a/7a+ onsight or within a few tie ins when I do try, and there are clearly some gains to be made. So maybe I can do 7b/7b+ if I accept that I will need to try something several times and should think about a goal for that over the winter....maybe...not sure I have the mentality for redpointing...
M: fingerboard and coaching
T: Rest (aka work)
W: Lead on new set at Brookes. Seem to be a good set so will hopefully get some mileage psych over the next couple of months.
T: lazy
F: boulder
S: Not much time and very cold wind but Buoys will be Buoys (6b+) probably the highlight. Man I'm bad at climbing when cold.
S: Blacknor in some warmer conditions (though still cold at the top) Sacred Angel (7a) probably the highlight. So close to the o/s but got slightly waylaid by chalk and got sucked into the longer arm beta, when I should have stuck to my guns and known that I needed to invent T-Rex beta. Lesson hopefully learned! First UK 7a - on softer side I think as only one/two moves - will return for Pining for Glossop and The Unreachable and Victims of Fashion at some point. Helped at Reel Rock in Poole. Found the Margo Hayes one quite emotional.
Since I just had to google turkish getup, and also fear that it may result in pumpkin in face injury, that might be a no...
This week I have learnt that I need to adjust my attitude to sport climbing. I don't really do much as I prefer the thrill of trad/pushing myself on hard moves bouldering so it feels a little in between. But I tend to get 7a/7a+ onsight or within a few tie ins when I do try, and there are clearly some gains to be made. So maybe I can do 7b/7b+ if I accept that I will need to try something several times and should think about a goal for that over the winter....maybe...not sure I have the mentality for redpointing...
M: fingerboard and coaching
T: Rest (aka work)
W: Lead on new set at Brookes. Seem to be a good set so will hopefully get some mileage psych over the next couple of months.
T: lazy
F: boulder
S: Not much time and very cold wind but Buoys will be Buoys (6b+) probably the highlight. Man I'm bad at climbing when cold.
S: Blacknor in some warmer conditions (though still cold at the top) Sacred Angel (7a) probably the highlight. So close to the o/s but got slightly waylaid by chalk and got sucked into the longer arm beta, when I should have stuck to my guns and known that I needed to invent T-Rex beta. Lesson hopefully learned! First UK 7a - on softer side I think as only one/two moves - will return for Pining for Glossop and The Unreachable and Victims of Fashion at some point. Helped at Reel Rock in Poole. Found the Margo Hayes one quite emotional.
1
In reply to mrchewy:
As would I! I think what was an eye-opener for me was the volume of moves required, not the medium. Font is just perfect for this, and I'd much much rather do this sort of training in Font than on the climbing wall at home, but alas, I live where I live and it isn't Paris...
> Crocked shoulder tendon and skin used to outdoors (I've climbed maybe 20/30 times indoors in over two years) means I'd be lucky to get a 2hr session on a circuit board 5+.
> Bleau and it's 25,000 problems, it's mountain circuits with mountain grades, all the colours of autumn - I'm more than happy here flapping around on oranges, blues and reds for a month.
> I'm sure jwi would be too.
As would I! I think what was an eye-opener for me was the volume of moves required, not the medium. Font is just perfect for this, and I'd much much rather do this sort of training in Font than on the climbing wall at home, but alas, I live where I live and it isn't Paris...
1
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy, yup running and cycling all through winter, cant stand the static bike or treadmill so would rather have some slight discomfort on the grim wet days and enjoy the sheer bliss of being out on a cold clear crisp winters morning
As an aside does anyone ever feel like kind of an impostor on these threads? I look at others posting and there are lots of folk with really good training plans, who climb lots and genuinely seem to be proper athletes. Conversely I just try to fit in as much swimming as lunch time will allow, cycling is mainly commuting and running is squeezed in and around the family, just getting out when and where possible. Climbing is also very limited. Anyway perhaps too much navel gazing, last week went as follows;
Monday, not feeling great, slow 1km swim. Went home early and straight to bed, frozen solid and shivering like mad.
Tuesday, managed to sweat out the crappiness overnight and laboured another 1km swim.
Wednesday, had the afternoon off to take the eldest daughter to a free swim stroke analysis session organised through her club. Managed a gentle 5km run before hand.
Thursday, feeling much better, 2km swim and a 10km run in the evening whilst the litle ones were at Brownies
Friday, 30km ride home
Saturday, 10km trail run, nice cool morning and was able to keep up a good pace
Sunday, lovely frosty clear morning so did the same run again, bit slower this time and paused to take a few pics to go on Strava
> the sheep: From your last post I take it you are planning on sticking with the running through winter weather?
Cheers Guy, yup running and cycling all through winter, cant stand the static bike or treadmill so would rather have some slight discomfort on the grim wet days and enjoy the sheer bliss of being out on a cold clear crisp winters morning
As an aside does anyone ever feel like kind of an impostor on these threads? I look at others posting and there are lots of folk with really good training plans, who climb lots and genuinely seem to be proper athletes. Conversely I just try to fit in as much swimming as lunch time will allow, cycling is mainly commuting and running is squeezed in and around the family, just getting out when and where possible. Climbing is also very limited. Anyway perhaps too much navel gazing, last week went as follows;
Monday, not feeling great, slow 1km swim. Went home early and straight to bed, frozen solid and shivering like mad.
Tuesday, managed to sweat out the crappiness overnight and laboured another 1km swim.
Wednesday, had the afternoon off to take the eldest daughter to a free swim stroke analysis session organised through her club. Managed a gentle 5km run before hand.
Thursday, feeling much better, 2km swim and a 10km run in the evening whilst the litle ones were at Brownies
Friday, 30km ride home
Saturday, 10km trail run, nice cool morning and was able to keep up a good pace
Sunday, lovely frosty clear morning so did the same run again, bit slower this time and paused to take a few pics to go on Strava
Post edited at 12:44
In reply to Tyler:
Can you make the session a little easier, and then do some fixed intervals instead of going to failure?
One of my favourite hi-impact sessions (as it fits a lot of volume in to a short period, rather than being really high intensity) is:
Using a 1-3-5-5-3-2-1 sequence on the big rungs and with a decent foot hold (for reference, my board is 25 degrees overhanging) climb for 60seconds (this is a about 4-6 repetitions of the circuit, depending on pace)
Rest 60s
Repeat!
10 reps doesn't get me too boxed, and depending on what else i've done in the session, between 12-15 and i'm starting to fight for the last few seconds of the circuit. I still don't go to failure though - i save that for aero-power training, when using the same holds/sequence my PB is in the realms of >6min continuous campussing (good psyche music is essential!)
With regards to "empty miles" you're probably over doing it if going to failure, unless trying to peak for a imminent trip. Aero-cap should be done at a lower intensity, so try bigger rungs, smaller moves, better foothold, etc to make it easier - you should be hot, sweaty and breathing hard, but not so pumped you can't hold on
Can you make the session a little easier, and then do some fixed intervals instead of going to failure?
One of my favourite hi-impact sessions (as it fits a lot of volume in to a short period, rather than being really high intensity) is:
Using a 1-3-5-5-3-2-1 sequence on the big rungs and with a decent foot hold (for reference, my board is 25 degrees overhanging) climb for 60seconds (this is a about 4-6 repetitions of the circuit, depending on pace)
Rest 60s
Repeat!
10 reps doesn't get me too boxed, and depending on what else i've done in the session, between 12-15 and i'm starting to fight for the last few seconds of the circuit. I still don't go to failure though - i save that for aero-power training, when using the same holds/sequence my PB is in the realms of >6min continuous campussing (good psyche music is essential!)
With regards to "empty miles" you're probably over doing it if going to failure, unless trying to peak for a imminent trip. Aero-cap should be done at a lower intensity, so try bigger rungs, smaller moves, better foothold, etc to make it easier - you should be hot, sweaty and breathing hard, but not so pumped you can't hold on
In reply to Ally Smith:
That seems very slow, I deliberately slowed up yesterday but still did 22 reps (132 hand moves) in 1:35. What you've described there (if I've understood correctly) is 28 to 42 hand movements in a minute, do you shake out as 2 secs per hand move seems a bit arduous!
> Using a 1-3-5-5-3-2-1 sequence on the big rungs and with a decent foot hold (for reference, my board is 25 degrees overhanging) climb for 60seconds (this is a about 4-6 repetitions of the circuit, depending on pace)
That seems very slow, I deliberately slowed up yesterday but still did 22 reps (132 hand moves) in 1:35. What you've described there (if I've understood correctly) is 28 to 42 hand movements in a minute, do you shake out as 2 secs per hand move seems a bit arduous!
Post edited at 13:21
In reply to Just Tintin:
I think that was probably my favourite, although I think I laughed most at the last one.
She's a good reminder that coming in from a strong background in another sport can be a massive advantage because you know how to train, that being really driven can get you a long way, and that there's a fine line between being really driven and being a bit crazy!
> Helped at Reel Rock in Poole. Found the Margo Hayes one quite emotional.
I think that was probably my favourite, although I think I laughed most at the last one.
She's a good reminder that coming in from a strong background in another sport can be a massive advantage because you know how to train, that being really driven can get you a long way, and that there's a fine line between being really driven and being a bit crazy!
1
In reply to Just Tintin:
One of my early attempts ended with a semi-controlled kettlebell drop onto my ribs. Semi-controlled so I didn't break anything, fortunately, but it was painful for weeks. Don't try to save a failed attempt, just get out from under it.
> Since I just had to google turkish getup, and also fear that it may result in pumpkin in face injury
One of my early attempts ended with a semi-controlled kettlebell drop onto my ribs. Semi-controlled so I didn't break anything, fortunately, but it was painful for weeks. Don't try to save a failed attempt, just get out from under it.
In reply to the sheep:
Yes, currently sitting at a crag in Spain having failed on my red points all day, very much feeling like an imposter right now!!
Yes, currently sitting at a crag in Spain having failed on my red points all day, very much feeling like an imposter right now!!
2
In reply to Tyler:
On UKB, I was told to try 4 sec a move when I was FOCing regularly. It did seem to make it a lot harder if I'm honest. I was managing near 5min on the small rail going rapid but nowhere near that at 4sec a move.
On UKB, I was told to try 4 sec a move when I was FOCing regularly. It did seem to make it a lot harder if I'm honest. I was managing near 5min on the small rail going rapid but nowhere near that at 4sec a move.
In reply to Tyler:
Yep, 1.5 to 2 sec per move seems about right.
That's still very fast paced for real climbing, unless you're Ondra or have a redpoint project totally wired for the hyper sprint
Yep, 1.5 to 2 sec per move seems about right.
That's still very fast paced for real climbing, unless you're Ondra or have a redpoint project totally wired for the hyper sprint
In reply to mrchewy:
Do you have link to the thread as 4 secs seems crazy. Incidentally how long did it take to get to 5 mins as that seems really high and I'm wondering how come I'm so behind (given I'm using med/large rungs).
> On UKB, I was told to try 4 sec a move when I was FOCing regularly. It did seem to make it a lot harder if I'm honest. I was managing near 5min on the small rail going rapid but nowhere near that at 4sec a move.
Do you have link to the thread as 4 secs seems crazy. Incidentally how long did it take to get to 5 mins as that seems really high and I'm wondering how come I'm so behind (given I'm using med/large rungs).
In reply to Ally Smith:
It is but that's because you are paused looking for holds, moving feet or readjusting on the hold none of which apply so do you move then pause or just move in super slow motion?
> Yep, 1.5 to 2 sec per move seems about right.
> That's still very fast paced for real climbing, unless you're Ondra or have a redpoint project totally wired for the hyper sprint
It is but that's because you are paused looking for holds, moving feet or readjusting on the hold none of which apply so do you move then pause or just move in super slow motion?
In reply to Tyler:
This is sped up x4 footage: https://www.instagram.com/p/BWImELjhBNy
I do sometimes have a foot fidget/do some reps 1 footed, but that's just for boredom's sake, not to deliberately slow things down.
And i'm the opposite to Chewy - when i sprint i get more tired - a bit more systemic than just forearm pump though - certainly panting harder
This is sped up x4 footage: https://www.instagram.com/p/BWImELjhBNy
I do sometimes have a foot fidget/do some reps 1 footed, but that's just for boredom's sake, not to deliberately slow things down.
And i'm the opposite to Chewy - when i sprint i get more tired - a bit more systemic than just forearm pump though - certainly panting harder
1
In reply to Tyler:
I don't - just had a look but Nibs and Sasquatch were the two who told me to slow down and I found the adjustment really difficult, I think because I don't have strong fingers and getting off the rail quickly was important.
At the time, Ally was going for it and always ahead of me, so I had something to aim for and that little spark of competitiveness in my head allowed the mindnumbing repetition to not get to me. I can't remember how long it took but certainly it was no more than 6 months - started on the big rail, doing my max and resting for the same, up to 4x to start with. Also shaking it up with 1min on 1min off till failure.
I don't climb hard, I've onsighted 20 or so 6b/+ routes but I can honestly say I never got pumped once during the first four months of a road in winter 15/16. I lack power which is why I'm bouldering more this winter.
I don't - just had a look but Nibs and Sasquatch were the two who told me to slow down and I found the adjustment really difficult, I think because I don't have strong fingers and getting off the rail quickly was important.
At the time, Ally was going for it and always ahead of me, so I had something to aim for and that little spark of competitiveness in my head allowed the mindnumbing repetition to not get to me. I can't remember how long it took but certainly it was no more than 6 months - started on the big rail, doing my max and resting for the same, up to 4x to start with. Also shaking it up with 1min on 1min off till failure.
I don't climb hard, I've onsighted 20 or so 6b/+ routes but I can honestly say I never got pumped once during the first four months of a road in winter 15/16. I lack power which is why I'm bouldering more this winter.
In reply to Tyler:
Nibs mentioned moving the hand to the next rail but not taking it for four seconds, which is why I think I found it brutal.
> so do you move then pause or just move in super slow motion?
Nibs mentioned moving the hand to the next rail but not taking it for four seconds, which is why I think I found it brutal.
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
In contrast I did all mine one footed and it certainly helped my core strength
> I do sometimes have a foot fidget/do some reps 1 footed
In contrast I did all mine one footed and it certainly helped my core strength
In reply to Ally Smith:
A follow-on thought - seeing the Jerry Moffatt lecture also inspired me to do some old school routes, notably:
Masterclass (8a)
and
Oyster (8a)
A follow-on thought - seeing the Jerry Moffatt lecture also inspired me to do some old school routes, notably:
Masterclass (8a)
and
Oyster (8a)
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
I just watched that fro about 5 mins before realising it was a 3 second clip on loop! I have a lot to learn about Instagram as well as FOC! I must say that's about the speed I normally go until that last few moves. Looks like I need to slow down and possibly do shorter moves on the way down as at the moment my figures are way down on Mr Chewy and HMS
I just watched that fro about 5 mins before realising it was a 3 second clip on loop! I have a lot to learn about Instagram as well as FOC! I must say that's about the speed I normally go until that last few moves. Looks like I need to slow down and possibly do shorter moves on the way down as at the moment my figures are way down on Mr Chewy and HMS
1
In reply to mrchewy:
> I don't climb hard, I've onsighted 20 or so 6b/+ routes
I'm more baffled than ever!In reply to mrchewy:
It gets worse!
> In contrast I did all mine one footed and it certainly helped my core strength
It gets worse!
1
In reply to Tyler:
Don't be - I have some old injuries that make climbing for me a complete nightmare at times but the worst being a badly broken wrist (26 bones) with 40% movement in most directions, lots of nerve damage and slightly shortened tendons in the thumb and forefinger.
FOC was one of the things that was fine to do.
Don't be - I have some old injuries that make climbing for me a complete nightmare at times but the worst being a badly broken wrist (26 bones) with 40% movement in most directions, lots of nerve damage and slightly shortened tendons in the thumb and forefinger.
FOC was one of the things that was fine to do.
In reply to Tyler:
Anecdotally and completely personal but when I did FoC I only had a fingerboard so I was effectively just doing 1-2-2-1-1-2-2-1-1...etc and it worked wonders.
The harder the individual moves, the less pumped you will be when you fall off.
Edit;: this was for aeropower purposes
Anecdotally and completely personal but when I did FoC I only had a fingerboard so I was effectively just doing 1-2-2-1-1-2-2-1-1...etc and it worked wonders.
The harder the individual moves, the less pumped you will be when you fall off.
Edit;: this was for aeropower purposes
Post edited at 18:22
In reply to Si dH:
Is aeropower power-endurance
in layman terms. What sort of time were you aiming for to make it aeropower?
Is aeropower power-endurance
in layman terms. What sort of time were you aiming for to make it aeropower?
Post edited at 18:35
In reply to Tyler:
I think different people mean different things by power endurance but yes, probably. The point is to be able to climb harder stuff for longer without available rests (ie, intense and cpntinous) before you fail through pump. The other thing that I think of as power endurance, which is the ability to do multiple hard moves in a row before failing through power-out, is ancap. For me (not necessarily everyone) I think of ancap as a typical boulder traverse and aeropower being a short route. If they were sections of something longer than you need some aerocap too in order to take beat advantage of rests and to get through easy sections with minimum bother.
(Edit: this is my interpretation, but as I have never managed to work out what anpow is, I might be wrong.)
I was doing aeropow FoC to failure every rep, then resting the same period on a stopwatch, then repeating until I plateaued. Performance varied a lot with conditions but generally i would manage about 150 seconds first rep, 110 second rep, 80 third rep, 70 4th rep, 65 5th rep...and the whole thing took about 25 minutes.
Any increase in rest times due to cocking up the stopwatch makes a big difference.
This helped me loads with Arch Enemies and Free Monster (ie 15-20m, classic short/steep peak limestone stuff).
> Is aeropower power-endurance
> in layman terms. What sort of time were you aiming for to make it aeropower?
I think different people mean different things by power endurance but yes, probably. The point is to be able to climb harder stuff for longer without available rests (ie, intense and cpntinous) before you fail through pump. The other thing that I think of as power endurance, which is the ability to do multiple hard moves in a row before failing through power-out, is ancap. For me (not necessarily everyone) I think of ancap as a typical boulder traverse and aeropower being a short route. If they were sections of something longer than you need some aerocap too in order to take beat advantage of rests and to get through easy sections with minimum bother.
(Edit: this is my interpretation, but as I have never managed to work out what anpow is, I might be wrong.)
I was doing aeropow FoC to failure every rep, then resting the same period on a stopwatch, then repeating until I plateaued. Performance varied a lot with conditions but generally i would manage about 150 seconds first rep, 110 second rep, 80 third rep, 70 4th rep, 65 5th rep...and the whole thing took about 25 minutes.
Any increase in rest times due to cocking up the stopwatch makes a big difference.
This helped me loads with Arch Enemies and Free Monster (ie 15-20m, classic short/steep peak limestone stuff).
Post edited at 19:10
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy!
Sounds like you and Bones are having a smashing time in Spain, not jealous at all. Loving the body stickers.
I have done some assisted chin ups (with a resistance band), but I will have a go. My main trainer is back this week so I’m going to ask him for some things I can do to help build my pull up strength on my own.
STG:
*2 pull ups
*lead a 18 (5c) at Kangaroo Point
MTG:
*Lead "Zeitgeist" at Mt Tibrogargan in March-ish time when it’s cooler. Route is 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c) - need to work on my lead head/route finding
*do 5 pull ups by 31/01/2018
*Uni loop on bike (approx. 25km/16miles)
LTG:
*Cycle to Nudgee beach (50km/32miles) by June 2018
*climb a big wall before I'm 40
Monday
AM Training
4 sets with 15kg sandbag
x4 dead lifts (each arm)
x4 squats
x20 lunges
3 sets
x 8 push-up and row (8kg dumbbells)
x10 shuttle runs
Wall sits (45sec, 75sec, 105sec)
PM Indoor Climbing
Was feeling tired so we climbing for 1.5hours, doing all the 'greens' in the gym - so climbs between 18-20 (5c/6a+), also jumped on the 25 I completed a few weeks ago. Can still do it.
Tuesday - rest day
Wednesday
AM Training
4 sets
x5 each leg lunges with bar (20kg, 25kg, 30kg, 35kg)
x10 good mornings (9kg dumbbell)
x8 j-curls
8 sets
20sec core flutters
10sec rest
20sec up/down plank
PM - physio session on knee. He has said no running and to stick to cycling instead.
Thursday - rest day, sore from physio
Friday
Flow & Deep Yoga
Saturday
Moving day
Sunday
More moving/unpacking/Niece's birthday party
Will be a bit out of routine for a bit, but very much looking forward to being a 3 min walk from the climbing gym.
Thanks Guy!
Sounds like you and Bones are having a smashing time in Spain, not jealous at all. Loving the body stickers.
I have done some assisted chin ups (with a resistance band), but I will have a go. My main trainer is back this week so I’m going to ask him for some things I can do to help build my pull up strength on my own.
STG:
*2 pull ups
*lead a 18 (5c) at Kangaroo Point
MTG:
*Lead "Zeitgeist" at Mt Tibrogargan in March-ish time when it’s cooler. Route is 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c) - need to work on my lead head/route finding
*do 5 pull ups by 31/01/2018
*Uni loop on bike (approx. 25km/16miles)
LTG:
*Cycle to Nudgee beach (50km/32miles) by June 2018
*climb a big wall before I'm 40
Monday
AM Training
4 sets with 15kg sandbag
x4 dead lifts (each arm)
x4 squats
x20 lunges
3 sets
x 8 push-up and row (8kg dumbbells)
x10 shuttle runs
Wall sits (45sec, 75sec, 105sec)
PM Indoor Climbing
Was feeling tired so we climbing for 1.5hours, doing all the 'greens' in the gym - so climbs between 18-20 (5c/6a+), also jumped on the 25 I completed a few weeks ago. Can still do it.
Tuesday - rest day
Wednesday
AM Training
4 sets
x5 each leg lunges with bar (20kg, 25kg, 30kg, 35kg)
x10 good mornings (9kg dumbbell)
x8 j-curls
8 sets
20sec core flutters
10sec rest
20sec up/down plank
PM - physio session on knee. He has said no running and to stick to cycling instead.
Thursday - rest day, sore from physio
Friday
Flow & Deep Yoga
Saturday
Moving day
Sunday
More moving/unpacking/Niece's birthday party
Will be a bit out of routine for a bit, but very much looking forward to being a 3 min walk from the climbing gym.
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy
Hope you are enjoying Spain
Current weight 84kg - Target 78kg - Did not move this week. Very poor nutrition by me. I even woke up one night hungry and went and ate a choc bar at 2 in the morning woops. Family meals through the week and way to much drink did not help either
STG-Last Week
3 x climb (1 on indoor tools 20 pitches) - I'm gonna say I did this
1 x Mountain Walk - 6 hours - Fail
1 x run - Short <20 min fast pace - Tick
Make sure I do press ups, dips and core before all climbing sessions - Tick
1x leg strength session - Tick
STG-Next week
3 x climb (1 on indoor tools 20 pitches)
1 x Mountain Walk - 6 hours
1 x run - Short <20 min fast pace
Make sure I do press ups, dips and core before all climbing sessions
1x leg strength session
MTG - Next march
2 trips to Scotland - want to climb up to grade 3
Alpine combine from training for the new alpinism
Box steps - 35 min -12 kg pack
45 sit ups in 60
8 pull ups in 60 sec
45 box jumps in 60 sec
25 push ups in 60 sec
Climb 2 more e1 on limestone
HVS on 2 other rock types than limestone
Sport 6c
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
Anything on El Cap
Last weeks training
M - Bouldering at Boulders Cardiff - V3 -V4 Seen some progression but not a lot
T - 15 route on tools (150 meters of climbing done in blocks of 2 and 3)
W - Run - 2.7 miles. Pace 7:59 per mile HR zone 3. Elevation 350ft
T - 1 round TFTNA conditioning
F - Rest
S - Run - 2.6 miles. Pace 10:05 per mile. HR zone 1. Elevation 400ft
S - Had a chance to get on some slate so drove to north wales at 3 am. Climbed Fresh Air (6a), Peter Pan (6a+), Sans Chisel Variation (6b) ,Seamstress (VS 4c). Then seconded Seams the Same (E1 5b).
I then backed off Fool's Gold (E1 5c) at the crux as I just cold not work it out and my foot kept popping and I felt completely out of balance. My head then went a bit even though I had a bomer wire at head height.
Managed to get up it on second but I was still like bambi on ice for the crux. The rest of the route was then straight forward. Should of stuck to HVS and I could of got closer to one of my mid term goals.
Then made the long drive home.
Lee
Thanks Guy
Hope you are enjoying Spain
Current weight 84kg - Target 78kg - Did not move this week. Very poor nutrition by me. I even woke up one night hungry and went and ate a choc bar at 2 in the morning woops. Family meals through the week and way to much drink did not help either
STG-Last Week
3 x climb (1 on indoor tools 20 pitches) - I'm gonna say I did this
1 x Mountain Walk - 6 hours - Fail
1 x run - Short <20 min fast pace - Tick
Make sure I do press ups, dips and core before all climbing sessions - Tick
1x leg strength session - Tick
STG-Next week
3 x climb (1 on indoor tools 20 pitches)
1 x Mountain Walk - 6 hours
1 x run - Short <20 min fast pace
Make sure I do press ups, dips and core before all climbing sessions
1x leg strength session
MTG - Next march
2 trips to Scotland - want to climb up to grade 3
Alpine combine from training for the new alpinism
Box steps - 35 min -12 kg pack
45 sit ups in 60
8 pull ups in 60 sec
45 box jumps in 60 sec
25 push ups in 60 sec
Climb 2 more e1 on limestone
HVS on 2 other rock types than limestone
Sport 6c
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
Anything on El Cap
Last weeks training
M - Bouldering at Boulders Cardiff - V3 -V4 Seen some progression but not a lot
T - 15 route on tools (150 meters of climbing done in blocks of 2 and 3)
W - Run - 2.7 miles. Pace 7:59 per mile HR zone 3. Elevation 350ft
T - 1 round TFTNA conditioning
F - Rest
S - Run - 2.6 miles. Pace 10:05 per mile. HR zone 1. Elevation 400ft
S - Had a chance to get on some slate so drove to north wales at 3 am. Climbed Fresh Air (6a), Peter Pan (6a+), Sans Chisel Variation (6b) ,Seamstress (VS 4c). Then seconded Seams the Same (E1 5b).
I then backed off Fool's Gold (E1 5c) at the crux as I just cold not work it out and my foot kept popping and I felt completely out of balance. My head then went a bit even though I had a bomer wire at head height.
Managed to get up it on second but I was still like bambi on ice for the crux. The rest of the route was then straight forward. Should of stuck to HVS and I could of got closer to one of my mid term goals.
Then made the long drive home.
Lee
In reply to guy127917:
Hi All.
Thanks for being statto, Guy. Especially as your statting from a trip!
A slightly frustrating week this week, as I struggle to get in to a routine with my new lifestyle! Currently finding it quite difficult to balance work and non-work (also had a bit too much partying), but I'm hoping to soon get in the groove. I have also decided I need to be a bit more structured in training for my goals and focus a bit more on 'the process' rather than just setting goals and vaguely trying to make them happen. Perhaps some of my goals should be 'process' rather than 'end game'? What's the opinion of the Fit Club Brain Trust? Also, I have realised that my core has become pathetically week and load-carrying is going to break me unless I do something about it.
With this in mind I've tweaked my goals a little, dividing them in to goals for ongoing work and goals that this work allows me to achieve...
SHORT TERM GOALS (BY 31 DEC 17)
PROCESS:
Run a minimum of 500m vertical per week
Average two core sessions per week
Average two shoulder prehab sessions per week
END GAME:
Walk (or skin) 1200m height gain, with 18kg, in <4hrs
E1 on any rock type
M8 Redpoint
'El Cap Nose Day' (880m climbing in one day)
Improve Alpine Combine Test by 10% in each category.
MEDIUM TERM GOALS (BY 30 APR 18)
Scottish VII
5 routes of ED1 or above
5 Black Runs
Haute Route
Improve Alpine Combine Test by a further 10% in each category
LAST WEEK
M: Trail Run (10.2km, 214m vert, 5:50 pace)
T: Excessive Alcohol Consumption
W: Core Strength
T: Shoulder Rehab (Bands)
F: Raving
S: Party
S: Core Strength
Hi All.
Thanks for being statto, Guy. Especially as your statting from a trip!
A slightly frustrating week this week, as I struggle to get in to a routine with my new lifestyle! Currently finding it quite difficult to balance work and non-work (also had a bit too much partying), but I'm hoping to soon get in the groove. I have also decided I need to be a bit more structured in training for my goals and focus a bit more on 'the process' rather than just setting goals and vaguely trying to make them happen. Perhaps some of my goals should be 'process' rather than 'end game'? What's the opinion of the Fit Club Brain Trust? Also, I have realised that my core has become pathetically week and load-carrying is going to break me unless I do something about it.
With this in mind I've tweaked my goals a little, dividing them in to goals for ongoing work and goals that this work allows me to achieve...
SHORT TERM GOALS (BY 31 DEC 17)
PROCESS:
Run a minimum of 500m vertical per week
Average two core sessions per week
Average two shoulder prehab sessions per week
END GAME:
Walk (or skin) 1200m height gain, with 18kg, in <4hrs
E1 on any rock type
M8 Redpoint
'El Cap Nose Day' (880m climbing in one day)
Improve Alpine Combine Test by 10% in each category.
MEDIUM TERM GOALS (BY 30 APR 18)
Scottish VII
5 routes of ED1 or above
5 Black Runs
Haute Route
Improve Alpine Combine Test by a further 10% in each category
LAST WEEK
M: Trail Run (10.2km, 214m vert, 5:50 pace)
T: Excessive Alcohol Consumption
W: Core Strength
T: Shoulder Rehab (Bands)
F: Raving
S: Party
S: Core Strength
In reply to Tom Green:
I like the 10% increase idea on the combine. Much better than my numbers pulled out of a hat and just thinking they are higher aim for them
I like the 10% increase idea on the combine. Much better than my numbers pulled out of a hat and just thinking they are higher aim for them
1
In reply to Climbthatpitch:
Thanks Lee.
To be honest, the 10% was pulled out of a hat too, with the numbers working out similarly to your targets.
I guess the problem with using a percentage is that with further improvements in performance each new goal becomes harder as the 10% of the improved level is bigger. When you combine this with the fact that the more improvement you make the harder it will be to improve further (law of diminishing returns kind of thing) then maybe in the long term percentage isn’t a good choice!!
By the way, thanks for drawing the Alpine Combine to my attention and inspiring me to use the test. I did it yesterday, so my (very mediocre) results will go in next weeks diary!
> I like the 10% increase idea on the combine. Much better than my numbers pulled out of a hat and just thinking they are higher aim for them
Thanks Lee.
To be honest, the 10% was pulled out of a hat too, with the numbers working out similarly to your targets.
I guess the problem with using a percentage is that with further improvements in performance each new goal becomes harder as the 10% of the improved level is bigger. When you combine this with the fact that the more improvement you make the harder it will be to improve further (law of diminishing returns kind of thing) then maybe in the long term percentage isn’t a good choice!!
By the way, thanks for drawing the Alpine Combine to my attention and inspiring me to use the test. I did it yesterday, so my (very mediocre) results will go in next weeks diary!
1
In reply to Tom Green:
Raving is a good start, perhaps the best.
My opinion on big mountain stuff is that all the training in the world is 50% and the rest is gritty determination to complete when it's all going wrong.
Hill sprints - over and over till you vomit and then more. On a full stomach, then on a day of starvation. I can honestly say this was the main staple training for my only ultra, I wasn't a runner before. When I get to the UK, I have to start them again in prep for Salbit West Ridge.
I guess what I'm trying to say is, it's fine having goals, specific ones but the goal of being mentally resilient in the face of pain, discomfort, tiredness or even apathy is often ignored. We often blame our heads when climbing goes badly - so shouldn't we make goals to make our head stronger for success?
Raving is a good start, perhaps the best.
My opinion on big mountain stuff is that all the training in the world is 50% and the rest is gritty determination to complete when it's all going wrong.
Hill sprints - over and over till you vomit and then more. On a full stomach, then on a day of starvation. I can honestly say this was the main staple training for my only ultra, I wasn't a runner before. When I get to the UK, I have to start them again in prep for Salbit West Ridge.
I guess what I'm trying to say is, it's fine having goals, specific ones but the goal of being mentally resilient in the face of pain, discomfort, tiredness or even apathy is often ignored. We often blame our heads when climbing goes badly - so shouldn't we make goals to make our head stronger for success?
3
In reply to mrchewy:
Great point... Thanks for bringing it up mrchewy! The mental side is probably present to some extent in all our training but we rarely discuss it (apart from the head game of fall practice etc).
I personally find it difficult to train ‘toughness’ in an ‘artificial’ setting. I seem to have the mindset which means I only try maximally when I know I need to. A small example of this is the difference between my 5km running times when running solo compared to my (much quicker) 5km running time on a park run, where the competitive element kicks in.
In the same way, I can keep going 20hr in to an alpine winter day in a way that I would struggle to do if I was trying to do the same mileage on Stanage where I can just walk back to the car.
So can you train toughness or do you just draw on it at the time? Do you get better at drawing on that reserve with more experience of those upper-limit situations?
Question to Fit Club:
Do you address mental toughness in your training and, if so, what methods work for you?
Great point... Thanks for bringing it up mrchewy! The mental side is probably present to some extent in all our training but we rarely discuss it (apart from the head game of fall practice etc).
I personally find it difficult to train ‘toughness’ in an ‘artificial’ setting. I seem to have the mindset which means I only try maximally when I know I need to. A small example of this is the difference between my 5km running times when running solo compared to my (much quicker) 5km running time on a park run, where the competitive element kicks in.
In the same way, I can keep going 20hr in to an alpine winter day in a way that I would struggle to do if I was trying to do the same mileage on Stanage where I can just walk back to the car.
So can you train toughness or do you just draw on it at the time? Do you get better at drawing on that reserve with more experience of those upper-limit situations?
Question to Fit Club:
Do you address mental toughness in your training and, if so, what methods work for you?
In reply to mrchewy:
Also, thanks for supporting the raving! On the negative, it eats in to the sleep. But on the positive it is great cardio, good leg work out and must burn a tonne of calories! Rave on!
Also, thanks for supporting the raving! On the negative, it eats in to the sleep. But on the positive it is great cardio, good leg work out and must burn a tonne of calories! Rave on!
1
In reply to guy127917:
This is the week (6th week since joining I think) I commit to some goals proper, promise! Just working em out. Tomorrow they committed to eternity via the fit club ledger. Then I'll promptly get injured but hey ho .
This is the week (6th week since joining I think) I commit to some goals proper, promise! Just working em out. Tomorrow they committed to eternity via the fit club ledger. Then I'll promptly get injured but hey ho .
In reply to Tom Green:
I don't, but it's something i'm about to investigate.
After buying Jerry's new Mastermind book, the subject of mental training seems to be popping up wherever I look. Yesterday I was listening to a Jam Crack podcast which made mention specifically of seeking out coaching for mental training, then Faceache showed me an advertisement for Hazel Findlay's mental training sessions. Perhaps it is the magic of Google's algorithms or just that i'm slightly more tuned in to notice these things at the moment, but it's a good reason to take a look at it.
I'll use Jerry's book as a base, try to see past the horrific layout and language to take some salient points away and work on them.
I'm only a sport climber and I see myself as pretty positive and confident in that field already so i'm not expecting overnight miracles, but my attitude around injuries could improve, keeping motivation when things aren't quite going my way can be tough. I also think visualisation is something I could work on, it seems to have a lot of very successful proponents.
Additional Question: Can anyone recommend any mental training for sport books that *aren't* climbing based? I'm always keen to steal from disciplines that have been doing it for longer!
> Question to Fit Club:
> Do you address mental toughness in your training and, if so, what methods work for you?
I don't, but it's something i'm about to investigate.
After buying Jerry's new Mastermind book, the subject of mental training seems to be popping up wherever I look. Yesterday I was listening to a Jam Crack podcast which made mention specifically of seeking out coaching for mental training, then Faceache showed me an advertisement for Hazel Findlay's mental training sessions. Perhaps it is the magic of Google's algorithms or just that i'm slightly more tuned in to notice these things at the moment, but it's a good reason to take a look at it.
I'll use Jerry's book as a base, try to see past the horrific layout and language to take some salient points away and work on them.
I'm only a sport climber and I see myself as pretty positive and confident in that field already so i'm not expecting overnight miracles, but my attitude around injuries could improve, keeping motivation when things aren't quite going my way can be tough. I also think visualisation is something I could work on, it seems to have a lot of very successful proponents.
Additional Question: Can anyone recommend any mental training for sport books that *aren't* climbing based? I'm always keen to steal from disciplines that have been doing it for longer!
1
In reply to Tom Green:
I don’t train toughness specifically, but I think it comes naturally from setting and following a plan with discipline. When you set an appropriate plan and stick to it (of course listening to your body along the way) you should have built a lot confidence in your abilities along the way. The plan needs to be set with your objective in mind so your brain has accepted the reality of tackling it.
Running plans include long runs and lots of miles, not just for the CV training effect but also to get the brain to accept the state of running as normal. For alpine training you will need to be planning large volumes in to get this same effect- this is one of the main messages of TFTNA, but it should be built up over something like 12-24 weeks.
The other thing to keep in mind is that training should be just that- specific exercises to stimulate progressive adaptation. Going out and hammering yourself for 20 hours on day 1 is probably not the best way (though it may work). You’re more likely to end up with an injury or overtraining syndrome.
I don’t train toughness specifically, but I think it comes naturally from setting and following a plan with discipline. When you set an appropriate plan and stick to it (of course listening to your body along the way) you should have built a lot confidence in your abilities along the way. The plan needs to be set with your objective in mind so your brain has accepted the reality of tackling it.
Running plans include long runs and lots of miles, not just for the CV training effect but also to get the brain to accept the state of running as normal. For alpine training you will need to be planning large volumes in to get this same effect- this is one of the main messages of TFTNA, but it should be built up over something like 12-24 weeks.
The other thing to keep in mind is that training should be just that- specific exercises to stimulate progressive adaptation. Going out and hammering yourself for 20 hours on day 1 is probably not the best way (though it may work). You’re more likely to end up with an injury or overtraining syndrome.
1
1
In reply to Tom Green:
Be interesting to see. A bit of healthy competition might have to arise against score
If u do get your hands on TFTNA it does say in there during the strength phase I think about hill sprints as mrchewy said apparently amazing for building leg strength. It says to find an extremely steep hill and run up for 10 seconds.
On the subject of mental training I am hoping to have enough fitness to just keep pushing and not find it to hard and then if I get into an epic hopefully I will be able to keep pushing
Be interesting to see. A bit of healthy competition might have to arise against score
If u do get your hands on TFTNA it does say in there during the strength phase I think about hill sprints as mrchewy said apparently amazing for building leg strength. It says to find an extremely steep hill and run up for 10 seconds.
On the subject of mental training I am hoping to have enough fitness to just keep pushing and not find it to hard and then if I get into an epic hopefully I will be able to keep pushing
Post edited at 09:31
1
In reply to Dandan:
Not sport but I remember hazel findlay doing a good article on black dimond about mental training.
I believe this was the one. This is part 2. On my phone and it is not playing ball to let me find part 1.
https://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_GB/experience-story?cid=hazel-findl...
Not sport but I remember hazel findlay doing a good article on black dimond about mental training.
I believe this was the one. This is part 2. On my phone and it is not playing ball to let me find part 1.
https://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_GB/experience-story?cid=hazel-findl...
In reply to Dandan:
“With Winning in Mind” by Lanny Bassham is another - looks like free pdf are available online, but i can't get at them from behind my work firewall.
“With Winning in Mind” by Lanny Bassham is another - looks like free pdf are available online, but i can't get at them from behind my work firewall.
1
In reply to Dandan:
As mentioned in my post, I had a training session with a coach who specialises in the mind game side of climbing. It was specifically to tackle pre redpoint anxiety and from limited testing of the techniques in Murcia I would give a tentative thumbs up (7b wasn't really pushing my limits after all, although the style was out of comfort zone).
However I am seriously struggling with the whole positive mental attitude thing, cos at well and truly middle age I'm not quite sure how to try to change something that has been so deeply part of my pyche for 50 years. I am very firmly glass half empty. In my job that serves me very well: I work in IT and who would you rather have designing a system or implementing a project, someone who blithely assumes all will be well or someone who knows darn well it won't be and has thought about and planned for the things which could go wrong!
However in climbing it is an issue. I try hard to take something positive from each session, really I do. I never ever say anything negative about how my partner has climbed when they lower off - so no comments of 'I didn't think you'd get that, you were really sketching at the 3rd clip' (NB not reciprocated). I try to push, but then get utterly down-hearted if I don't see gains, but know I can't improve if only within my lack of confidence comfort zone.
Other than a head transplant - what to do?!
Well I know one thing, and that's to try to get some local climbing partners who are nice positive people. Indoors would be tricky without causing discord but outdoors my only excuse is my extremely introvert nature. I think an excellent New Year's resolution would be to try out the local forums and try to get out with new people.
As mentioned in my post, I had a training session with a coach who specialises in the mind game side of climbing. It was specifically to tackle pre redpoint anxiety and from limited testing of the techniques in Murcia I would give a tentative thumbs up (7b wasn't really pushing my limits after all, although the style was out of comfort zone).
However I am seriously struggling with the whole positive mental attitude thing, cos at well and truly middle age I'm not quite sure how to try to change something that has been so deeply part of my pyche for 50 years. I am very firmly glass half empty. In my job that serves me very well: I work in IT and who would you rather have designing a system or implementing a project, someone who blithely assumes all will be well or someone who knows darn well it won't be and has thought about and planned for the things which could go wrong!
However in climbing it is an issue. I try hard to take something positive from each session, really I do. I never ever say anything negative about how my partner has climbed when they lower off - so no comments of 'I didn't think you'd get that, you were really sketching at the 3rd clip' (NB not reciprocated). I try to push, but then get utterly down-hearted if I don't see gains, but know I can't improve if only within my lack of confidence comfort zone.
Other than a head transplant - what to do?!
Well I know one thing, and that's to try to get some local climbing partners who are nice positive people. Indoors would be tricky without causing discord but outdoors my only excuse is my extremely introvert nature. I think an excellent New Year's resolution would be to try out the local forums and try to get out with new people.
2
In reply to hms:
> Other than a head transplant - what to do?!
Smoke weed, seems to work for a lot of the Spanish climbers. never quite got that - how do they motivate themselves to do anything at all, other than stare at the clouds and giggle?
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
that's the one I was thinking of the other day. I read it when D2 was still doing national climbing comps and some of the messages certainly stuck (that's where the never say anything negative to your partner when they lower off came from). Just reloaded it onto my kindle and will reread.
that's the one I was thinking of the other day. I read it when D2 was still doing national climbing comps and some of the messages certainly stuck (that's where the never say anything negative to your partner when they lower off came from). Just reloaded it onto my kindle and will reread.
In reply to guy127917:
Yep. That’s always been my strategy up to now... get as physically fit as possible and therefore push back ‘the wall’ at which I need the mental toughness.
I also think the more epics you have, the more mentally tough you get... similar to your thought about running training being partly fitness and partly getting used to what the pain feels like, except you have to have those epics in the real world -I can’t think how you simulate the necessary amount of pressure artificially.
Yep. That’s always been my strategy up to now... get as physically fit as possible and therefore push back ‘the wall’ at which I need the mental toughness.
I also think the more epics you have, the more mentally tough you get... similar to your thought about running training being partly fitness and partly getting used to what the pain feels like, except you have to have those epics in the real world -I can’t think how you simulate the necessary amount of pressure artificially.
Post edited at 12:02
In reply to Climbthatpitch:
Always up for a bit of friendly competition! Our scores are quite similar (spoiler for next Sunday’s fit club!) so we’re starting from much the same point. Game on for Alpine Combine Club!
With the hill sprints I’ve got an epic hill that I use (275m horizontal, 105m vertical) but I’ve always done the whole thing at a fairly low intensity -a sort of jog/plod, especially if doing it weighted. I haven’t got hold of TFTNA yet... does it suggest shorter bursts of higher intensity? And weighted or non-weighted?
Always up for a bit of friendly competition! Our scores are quite similar (spoiler for next Sunday’s fit club!) so we’re starting from much the same point. Game on for Alpine Combine Club!
With the hill sprints I’ve got an epic hill that I use (275m horizontal, 105m vertical) but I’ve always done the whole thing at a fairly low intensity -a sort of jog/plod, especially if doing it weighted. I haven’t got hold of TFTNA yet... does it suggest shorter bursts of higher intensity? And weighted or non-weighted?
1
In reply to hms:
"Negativity" can be constructive - often the best thing about an RP attempt (sucessful or unsuccessful) is that you climbed really badly - as it suggests that on a different day, when you are moving well and conditions are better, you might achieve far more. Where there are obvious faults to iron-out, there is hope.
Personally I think a "positive mental attitude" is not essential: in its absence, grim determination can work. My usual RP mentality is a stoical resignation to just keeping turning up, aware that failure is almost certain, but also knowing that I have little better to do before dinner time.
It's all to do with keeping a sense of perspective. Success means little, you just end up trying an incrementally harder route, probably only metres away, the next session; so, failure means even less and is hardly worth getting upset about.
> However in climbing it is an issue. I try hard to take something positive from each session, really I do. I never ever say anything negative about how my partner has climbed when they lower off - so no comments of 'I didn't think you'd get that, you were really sketching at the 3rd clip' (NB not reciprocated). I try to push, but then get utterly down-hearted if I don't see gains, but know I can't improve if only within my lack of confidence comfort zone.
> Other than a head transplant - what to do?!
> Other than a head transplant - what to do?!
"Negativity" can be constructive - often the best thing about an RP attempt (sucessful or unsuccessful) is that you climbed really badly - as it suggests that on a different day, when you are moving well and conditions are better, you might achieve far more. Where there are obvious faults to iron-out, there is hope.
Personally I think a "positive mental attitude" is not essential: in its absence, grim determination can work. My usual RP mentality is a stoical resignation to just keeping turning up, aware that failure is almost certain, but also knowing that I have little better to do before dinner time.
It's all to do with keeping a sense of perspective. Success means little, you just end up trying an incrementally harder route, probably only metres away, the next session; so, failure means even less and is hardly worth getting upset about.
5
In reply to hms:
Have you read Dave Mcleods blog post "positive thinking is not necessary"?
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com.es/2015/06/positive-thinking-is-not...
Have you read Dave Mcleods blog post "positive thinking is not necessary"?
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com.es/2015/06/positive-thinking-is-not...
In reply to guy127917:
yes, I read that when it first came out and thought it a breath of fresh air. Will reread when at home - work system blocks blogs.
yes, I read that when it first came out and thought it a breath of fresh air. Will reread when at home - work system blocks blogs.
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
I might frame this.
> My usual RP mentality is a stoical resignation to just keeping turning up, aware that failure is almost certain, but also knowing that I have little better to do before dinner time
I might frame this.
1
In reply to AJM:
Sport climbing is a means to while away the empty hours until beer'o'clock. It's great when it goes well, but when it doesn't, no matter.
To repeat myself, my laws of RPing are:
(1) Just. Keep.Turning Up.
(2) Try hard as hard as you can, whenever you can.
(3) It never gets easier, the grades just get bigger.
Sport climbing is a means to while away the empty hours until beer'o'clock. It's great when it goes well, but when it doesn't, no matter.
To repeat myself, my laws of RPing are:
(1) Just. Keep.Turning Up.
(2) Try hard as hard as you can, whenever you can.
(3) It never gets easier, the grades just get bigger.
7
In reply to guy127917:
STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Weight - 14st
M - S - Rest
I had been intending to get down the wall, but the wall was closed on Wednesday. Also my son had Bronchiolitis which wasn't much fun for any of us. Then over the weekend I came down with a cold as well. So the week was a bit of a wash out to be honest. There we go.
STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...
Weight - 14st
M - S - Rest
I had been intending to get down the wall, but the wall was closed on Wednesday. Also my son had Bronchiolitis which wasn't much fun for any of us. Then over the weekend I came down with a cold as well. So the week was a bit of a wash out to be honest. There we go.
In reply to Tom Green:
Short short short - it's meant to be hard.
Steepest hill you can find - I use one in my local park and only go up about 15m, walk back down, turn and go again repeat etc. Walking down is the rest.
And if you have any respect for your knees, no weight.
Full on sprinting.
Short short short - it's meant to be hard.
Steepest hill you can find - I use one in my local park and only go up about 15m, walk back down, turn and go again repeat etc. Walking down is the rest.
And if you have any respect for your knees, no weight.
Full on sprinting.
1
In reply to mrchewy:
Cool. On it!
I guess previous tactics have been trying to replicate the real thing... this is why having the Fit Club brain to pick is good!
Cheers
Cool. On it!
I guess previous tactics have been trying to replicate the real thing... this is why having the Fit Club brain to pick is good!
Cheers
In reply to Tom Green:
Just been pondering all this - from FOC to hillsprints. I have no idea of everyone's other sporting backgrounds but I didn't start climbing until my mid 40s. Before that was competitive hard house raving and before that football and rugby. The rugby club I trained with was very professional in their approach, with six men's teams and I found myself training alongside a young Ben Cohen most weeks.
The reasons I can't climb well are varied, from self doubt to a broken body but it's certainly not down to effort. I think one of the reasons is past coaching and training. In other sports, team sports especially, you are judged every session by the coach and if you don't perform or don't try hard in training then you don't get to play at the weekend. Simple.
Whereas in sport climbing or bouldering, if you muck around at training no one is judging you and you still get to play at weekend. Obviously, if you're a comp climber this doesn't apply and it's different for alpinism in the sense that if you shortcut the training you can die.
I think the reason it looks like I over performed at FOCing is possibly down to people's expectation of hard training being so low. I just tried hard, as hard as I could - I'm used to being watched and judged on my training and responding to that.
You've got me excited about hill sprints now!
Just been pondering all this - from FOC to hillsprints. I have no idea of everyone's other sporting backgrounds but I didn't start climbing until my mid 40s. Before that was competitive hard house raving and before that football and rugby. The rugby club I trained with was very professional in their approach, with six men's teams and I found myself training alongside a young Ben Cohen most weeks.
The reasons I can't climb well are varied, from self doubt to a broken body but it's certainly not down to effort. I think one of the reasons is past coaching and training. In other sports, team sports especially, you are judged every session by the coach and if you don't perform or don't try hard in training then you don't get to play at the weekend. Simple.
Whereas in sport climbing or bouldering, if you muck around at training no one is judging you and you still get to play at weekend. Obviously, if you're a comp climber this doesn't apply and it's different for alpinism in the sense that if you shortcut the training you can die.
I think the reason it looks like I over performed at FOCing is possibly down to people's expectation of hard training being so low. I just tried hard, as hard as I could - I'm used to being watched and judged on my training and responding to that.
You've got me excited about hill sprints now!
2
In reply to mrchewy:
Hmm, interesting stuff.
Perhaps it reinforces the point that for a lot of us, we don’t have the mindset/discipline/motivation to push ourselves hard when training in isolation.
I guess there’s been a lot written over the years about ‘if you want to climb harder, climb with people who are climbing harder’ and although this may have a small amount to do with learning better technique etc, it’s probably more to do with seeing what’s possible and having the peer-pressure/competitive element.
Like I said before, on a park run I smashed the 5k time that I’d struggled to hit by myself a couple of weeks earlier, and it also felt easier. And now I know that I can do it, I’ll be able to hit that same time running by myself. So I can see that the training ethic built up by your rugby could have a lasting effect for solo training.
Maybe the take-home message is to train with other people more... Any one for hill sprints?!
Hmm, interesting stuff.
Perhaps it reinforces the point that for a lot of us, we don’t have the mindset/discipline/motivation to push ourselves hard when training in isolation.
I guess there’s been a lot written over the years about ‘if you want to climb harder, climb with people who are climbing harder’ and although this may have a small amount to do with learning better technique etc, it’s probably more to do with seeing what’s possible and having the peer-pressure/competitive element.
Like I said before, on a park run I smashed the 5k time that I’d struggled to hit by myself a couple of weeks earlier, and it also felt easier. And now I know that I can do it, I’ll be able to hit that same time running by myself. So I can see that the training ethic built up by your rugby could have a lasting effect for solo training.
Maybe the take-home message is to train with other people more... Any one for hill sprints?!
2
In reply to guy127917:
I've completely forgotten everything I did last week. You'd think it wouldn't be that tricky but so much stuff is happening I live day-to-day now it seems.
In no particular order, the PRs I can remember:
PRed my lever chin-ups with 3 on each arm.
PRed my one-arm push-ups by doing them straighter and with less side bend.
PRed my wall handstand push-ups by doing 2.
PRed weighted pistol squats with 11 reps when holding 1.5 kg (3 kg next then).
Progressed to one leg bent and one leg straight L-sits for 15 sec.
Got more than halfway up an F6c+ on the autobelay and halfway up a 6b on the first try (sort of bailed because I was scared on that one, could have gotten the onsight if I kept going)
Also have now climbed all the f6A+ boulders in the third floor of my gym, and the whole slab wall except 2 problems. I haven't done all the 6A+ on the second floor (none on the first) because that's where my cave project is.
I keep trying to remember to do the hangboarding program but I just get distracted by something I want to climb, and I think that's a good thing anyways.
I started a new FB group for ice and alpine climbers in my area too, to get in touch with more people interested in the same stuff, and it grew to 100 members in 2 days, and I've gotten to planning trips with a few of them. Hopefully going to get a lot of ice climbing in this season so I have more options for stuff to do in Chamonix next year.
I've completely forgotten everything I did last week. You'd think it wouldn't be that tricky but so much stuff is happening I live day-to-day now it seems.
In no particular order, the PRs I can remember:
PRed my lever chin-ups with 3 on each arm.
PRed my one-arm push-ups by doing them straighter and with less side bend.
PRed my wall handstand push-ups by doing 2.
PRed weighted pistol squats with 11 reps when holding 1.5 kg (3 kg next then).
Progressed to one leg bent and one leg straight L-sits for 15 sec.
Got more than halfway up an F6c+ on the autobelay and halfway up a 6b on the first try (sort of bailed because I was scared on that one, could have gotten the onsight if I kept going)
Also have now climbed all the f6A+ boulders in the third floor of my gym, and the whole slab wall except 2 problems. I haven't done all the 6A+ on the second floor (none on the first) because that's where my cave project is.
I keep trying to remember to do the hangboarding program but I just get distracted by something I want to climb, and I think that's a good thing anyways.
I started a new FB group for ice and alpine climbers in my area too, to get in touch with more people interested in the same stuff, and it grew to 100 members in 2 days, and I've gotten to planning trips with a few of them. Hopefully going to get a lot of ice climbing in this season so I have more options for stuff to do in Chamonix next year.
Post edited at 15:17
2
In reply to guy127917:
Probably more than I'd like, but the constant crimpy wall climbing took its toll on my fingers.
Last week - Quiet week for me, started a mixed climbing training plan courtesy of Steve House and Scott Johnson's people at Uphill Athlete. Only one session this week though -
Wed. Mixed climbing training - first session. Core warm up, some bodyweight exercises and ice axe hangs. Find the two armed hanges fairly easy but single armed hangs on the left side (my bad shoulder) virtually impossible. Might need to take some weight off.
On the plus side, finding the hanging windshield wipers fairly easy now. A frontlever in my future, maybe?
STG
2x strength sessions
1x indoor climbing
2x mixed routes in Scotland. Got my eye on
The Guillotine (V 6)
Savage Slit (Winter) (V 6)
The latter could be busy so will need some alternatives.
Will post other goals next week.
> planetmarshall: Thanks for the trip report. Sounds like a great trip- not many rest days!!!
Probably more than I'd like, but the constant crimpy wall climbing took its toll on my fingers.
Last week - Quiet week for me, started a mixed climbing training plan courtesy of Steve House and Scott Johnson's people at Uphill Athlete. Only one session this week though -
Wed. Mixed climbing training - first session. Core warm up, some bodyweight exercises and ice axe hangs. Find the two armed hanges fairly easy but single armed hangs on the left side (my bad shoulder) virtually impossible. Might need to take some weight off.
On the plus side, finding the hanging windshield wipers fairly easy now. A frontlever in my future, maybe?
STG
2x strength sessions
1x indoor climbing
2x mixed routes in Scotland. Got my eye on
The Guillotine (V 6)
Savage Slit (Winter) (V 6)
The latter could be busy so will need some alternatives.
Will post other goals next week.
In reply to hms:
Fancy masterminding a FC positive psych sharing day on a crag near you? We'd love to come
Fancy masterminding a FC positive psych sharing day on a crag near you? We'd love to come
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