UKC

So I was wondering how you would belay someone on either lead or top rope when the belayer is lighter than the climber? You only have one carabiner and no belay plate. Would you do a figure of 8 on the bight on the sandbag/anchor and then use a munter hitch/italian hitch to belay? Thanks.

In reply to usmaniac:

Does the belayer have a harness? Is the carabiner a screwgate? (When did "karabiner" cease to be spelt with a k?)

Munter on the harness if it's a screwgate, or a waist belay.

In reply to usmaniac:

Waist belay would be fine, but you probably need to practise it a bit.

In reply to usmaniac:

Why would someone go climbing with 3kg of rope and not the 100g belay plate they need to use it safely?

In reply to tom_in_edinburgh:

Two rucksacks and some forgetfulness. Been there - done that!

In reply to Fraser:


Me too. But I found if you offer your partner the choice between a waist belay or lending you their belay plate you generally get a loan of one.

In reply to usmaniac:
The person climbing does not have to be lighter. I have belayed a friend who weighed 17-18Kg on a Munter hitch several times, including on multi-pitch routes. You could probably also do a direct belay with a Munter if the setup is right.

Edit: I cannot remember the other name for a Munter hitch.

In reply to tom_in_edinburgh:

Definitely, but I'd assumed neither partner had a belay plate in the OP's scenario.

In reply to veteye:

Sorry, I should have read the original comment as it says "Munter hitch/Italian hitch", the latter being the other name for a Munter hitch.

In reply to tom_in_edinburgh:

I found when I was packing for a trip a few weeks ago that my rope weighs an alarming 5½ kilos

In reply to veteye:


17-18 KILOGRAMS - that's some light friend. Now if your friend had weighed 17-18 STONE I would have been more impressed.

In reply to usmaniac:
So you have a rope, a krab and a sandbag but no harness?

To top rope you could body belay or take a turn around a tree or form a belay using the rope to 'sling' an anchor and the krab/Munter hitch to control the toprope or just keep walking back from the edge on flat ground as the second climbs. In the past I have once resorted to lying down in a hollow and rolling over and over to wind the rope around my body as the second climbed so the 100+ mph rotor I was exposed to at the edge of the mountain didn't whip the rope away and tangle/freeze it into the boulders behind.

To belay a leader improvise a harness with the rope, a sling from the leader's rack or a combination of both then control the lead rope with a Munter hitch on a locking krab. Without a locking krab a pair of back to back snapgates and a hex as a belay tube is another option.

There are loads of options in both cases.

Your mention of a sandbag suggests indoors in which case I'd hire or borrow the right kit before I got kicked out.
jk