UKC

Hi, can anyone advise if there are any fixed anchor points at The Roaches please? Thank you

In reply to Shaun adams:

You need to take your own kit and set up your own anchors. Bolts, glue ins and stakes are not used at the Roaches

In reply to Shaun adams:

I fear you are genuine. No there are not. See the history of British climbing.

In reply to Shaun adams:
There’s some excellently positioned, fixed anchor boulders at the top of some routes. All you need is the rope and a karabiner and you’re good to go. Oh, and the right know how!

In reply to mrphilipoldham:

Thank you

In reply to Jon Read:

Why are there bolts at Malham, history doesn't always provide the answers?

In reply to greylag:

The bolts at Malham started in pre-history when we secretive neandethertals used to aid climb in winter because no one had yet invented indoor walls for us to spend our lives on!

In reply to greylag:


Erm, I think you'll find it does!

In reply to greylag:


Yes it does.

W

In reply to greylag:


Yeah it kinda does...

In reply to greylag:


Here you go:

"Some of the easier traditional climbs such as Clubfoot and Swingover were first ascended by Allan Austin in the 1950s. At this time the huge central area was still the realm of the aid climber and many hand-drilled bolts were placed to gain progress up its sheer and seemingly blank walls. As things progressed, more difficult traditional routes were added to the Upper Terrace and Right Wing with the likes of Tony and Robin Barley, Pete Livesey and Ron Fawcett all having their say. It wasn't until the early 1980s that sport climbing really took off though with big names such as Fawcett, Leach and Dunne all making their mark. The bolts that were once used for aid were now accepted as being suitable for protecting the sheer walls for free climbing, thus opening up a whole new world of possibilities. Interestingly though, this ethic never really migrated (in any particular degree) to the Wings or Upper Terrace and the two disciplines were able to sit comfortably, side by side. More recently Steve McClure brought the crag firmly into the 21st century with his ascents of Rainshadow F9a and Overshadow F9a+, both of which rank on a world scale in terms of difficulty and quality and both of which have only seen repeats from Czech climber Adam Ondra."

W

In reply to Shaun adams:
Hi Shaun , if you are new to climbing or inexperienced outdoors you could pop a post on here in the "LIFTS AND PARTNERS" section asking to meet up with local climbers who could literaly show you the ropes. There are also a few climbing clubs over in staffordshire and manchester, also ask at the wall in stoke if they are running any wall to rock courses.

In reply to muppetfilter:

Thank you

In reply to Jon Read:

Fair enough I'll go with the majority, bolt discussions have been done to death and I'll bow to more knowledgeable minds - bow not agree.

I suspect the OP is relatively new to climbing and your response wasn't helpful, the dislikes reflect that.

Next time, can I suggest you spend a little time sharing your knowledge of climbing history explaining why 'anchor bolts' aren't at the Roaches, just a sentence or two will do.

Thanks

In reply to greylag:

I think it's fair to say that the lessons of history are being frequently overlooked in more recent times. The recent increase in the amount of chipping in Staffordshire is testament to this.

Only last weekend a friend of mine overheard a large group of young climbers discussing bolting at Cratcliffe, their voice of reason was that there were no bolts simply because they don't stay in very well on Grit...

I personally blame the change in how people are getting into climbing for this paradigm shift.

To the OP:
No, there are no anchor points at the Roaches, nor should there ever be. If you are interested in a wall to rock course, get in touch.

In reply to andi turner:

i will have a guess greylag has disliked your post. why I don't know. maybe because he doesn't like being shown to be wrong.

In reply to mark s:
not me!

edit: i like to be told I'm wrong sometimes otherwise I'd never learn!