UKC

Costa Blanca suggestions

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 dr_botnik 23 Nov 2017
Looking for easy 7's in the Costa Blanca area that aren't very "footy". I've got quite bad pain in my left big toe so long routes on little feet are out, short bouldery routes or cruxy off a ledge are in

Any suggestions?
 Mark Eddy 23 Nov 2017
In reply to dr_botnik:

Murla - short routes, feel quite bouldery, steep, easy walk-in, stunning views
 bonebag 23 Nov 2017
In reply to Mark Eddy:

Yes, was there on Tuesday this week. The views are stunning but I can't speak for the 7's as I only climb 5's and 6's. The weather here at the moment is in the 20's and hardly a cloud in the sky : )

Have a great trip.
OP dr_botnik 25 Nov 2017
In reply to Mark Eddy:

According to my partner's we're not climbing here as it's "the Burbage north of Costa Blanca" personally I don't see how that's an insult but they refuse to go. So any other tips are appreciated.

Also, we went to Sella and warmed up on those sharp pocket climbs. Very painful, probably the worst idea in my predicament. Gandia was a bit better as it's too steep to fully weight your legs most the time!
 SDM 26 Nov 2017
In reply to dr_botnik:

Did you climb at Sector Fundicio when you were at Gandia? Lots of short, steep, bouldery routes there. Try Publicasion sin tradition 7b+ (more like 7a+) and the other routes nearby. Make sure your belayer is paying attention, the cruxes tend to be around the second bolt.

Sector Superheroes at Forada is great for low 7s upwards. The routes are longer but it is steep and all on jugs and big pockets so it should be OK for your toe.

The routes at Pinos are quite short and steep, although they feel longer than they are as they are all quite sustained and I can't remember much about the feet.

OP dr_botnik 26 Nov 2017
In reply to dr_botnik:

To be honest we've been reliably hitting the 7's most nights. Seven pints that is. As for the climbing, for some reason we're struggling.

But yeah, thanks for the suggestions, gandia is probably spot on in terms of steep climbing with big holds so less pressure on the toes. Might just cut our losses tomorrow and head to alcalali and hope to actually climb a grade 6 clean :'D

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