In reply to bouldery bits:
I thought it was fairly sure Shauna would win before the comp even started. She's ranked no. 1 and the others were 5, 6, 7, 9 and Melissa is unranked as she didn't compete in the IFSC events this year. The ranking doesn't mean everything of course. But in terms of worked grade too she is also well above everyone apart from Melissa. Both have climbed 8B+ though Shauna has climbed more 8B's. None of the others have even climbed 8B. She was actually less dominant than I expected and I was surprised anyone got up anything that she did not. Great effort by Fanny on the first problem and Petra on the last one.
The best worked grade climbers are Alex Puccio, Ashima, Anna Stöhr and Isabella Faus so I thought it was a bit of shame none of these made it into the comp.
But overall I thought it was a really good comp. I sounded like an excellent atmosphere at the venue with some interesting music by the DJs. The commentary sound was a bit ropey at the start and it seemed strange that Liam couldn't announce the winner, which was clear from the point that Stasa failed to top the last boulder.