UKC

Advice appreciated from any of the UKC collective who are familiar with Morocco rock climbing.

I'm wondering what it would be like as a January destination, would it be likely to be warm enough and where might be best at that time.

Thanks for any help

In reply to Lakesben:

Probably depends on where you go, when we were there early Feb a few years back, Todra Gorge area climbable in sun but too cold in the gorge itself. By contrast Tafroute a week or so later was very pleasant, warm and sunny.

In reply to bandit12:

Thanks bandit12.

In reply to Lakesben:
I was in the Anti Atlas in January/ February this year. The temperature was perfect for climbing, but dropped away sharply as the sun set. The simpler Berber style accommodation was very cold in the sunless bedrooms, I was sleeping in thermals and with my down jacket on top of the bed. We moved to Tafraoute to benefit from the reverse cycle heating in a hotel. The nights are long dark and cold, take a good book as well as hat and gloves.

In reply to Lakesben:
Hi, I agree with Scott. I’ve been twice. Spent a week in Taftoute one January. Really nice temps in the day but cold at night. Good cake shop to pass the evenings.
This was before the new guide came out, so struggled to find some of the crags.
Been to the North side in February. Done some of the shaded routes on Lower Eagle. Need a belly jacket. But they are well worth it.
Never had any rain out there or cold wind. The peace is so refreshing.

In reply to Lakesben:

Broadly agree. We have seen it so hot we ran out of water and yet it snowed later the same week. Go prepared for the chill and enjoy the t shirt weather

In reply to Lakesben:

Not been to Todra, so can only advise about Tafroute area
Yeah, that time of year, be prepared to take off/put on your fleece as you pass in and out of the sun!
The south facing crags will be at ideal temperatures, but be warned that is where the toxic spiky plants and scorpions also reside.

In reply to Lakesben:

Hi stay somewhere with heating,It worth paying a little more !

In reply to Lakesben:

Yep, January and February are great times to climb in the Anti-Atlas. Sometimes it's T-shirt weather on the crags, sometimes you'll want a light fleece. As others have said, it'll be cold in the evenings and in the shade, so best to bring some warm clothes.

One of the bigger hotels in Tafraout is probably a good choice as they have heating... Check out the Hotel les Amandiers and also Hotel Tifawine.

There's some more info online at www.climb-tafraout.com

In reply to Lakesben:

Hello, I've not got any advice to offer but I'm heading to Morocco this Jan. I'd also like to climb....let me know if you need a partner.

Steve - thanks for the website link (www.climb-tafraout.com) that's handy.

Is it hard to find climbing partners out there?

Any recommendations on where to stay? I'd camping unpleasant in Jan.

Should you buy maps and guide back home or are they easy to come by out there?

Also is it all trad?

Any advice welcome

In reply to jld579:
We were in Tafroute for a few weeks in February in 2014, and it seemed very few other climbers about, most times we would see no one else at the crag, although there was a group of 3 climbers on the same campsite, I would definitely try and make prior arrangement to meet up before heading out there. There's sport in the Todra Gorge area, possibly some other areas but don't think there's anything worthwhile in Tafroute area.
You'll need to take everything with you except if you go to Todra where there is a local topo available.