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guy127917 - on 03 Dec 2017
Afternoon all, ’tis the season to be merry. How about a very casual December challenge for the more waist-line-challenged amongst us? It goes like this- you award yourself a point for every time you DON’T do something ‘just because its Christmas’. Fair game includes cheeky mince pies in the office, skipping workouts because you are hungover, going back for seconds, the additional cheese course etc etc (you decide). As per the majority of fit club challenges, this is entirely uncompetitive, please enjoy the holiday season!


A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html

Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=674903

Jen: Congrats on the first 7a lead tick!
guy127917: You didn’t set a weeks goal last week!
AJM: From the dissent you got last week, sounds like the jams are really working your weakness!
Curious Yellow: Welcome back!
mrchewy: This trip sounds like a pretty intense experience! Mainly because of the sausage though..
Si dH: Good work, will be interesting to see how the plan works out over quite a short period.
Powderpuff: Welcome along! Do you have any short, medium or long term bouldering goals you are working toward?
Alan Little: Your lattice numbers check out closely with mine from last year, which checks out roughly with outdoor grades I think, which is slightly reassuring to me. I didn’t really feel like the 24 moves got to the point of using my aerobic system (ie the moves aer too hard to be aerobic at any point) so was slightly concerned it was unrepresentative of that energy system.
Tyler: I feel the need to intervene after last week’s cry for help post! Smash it in Siurana.
Laura Morrissey: It’s great your trainers communicate! What is a 3 inch worm???? I can imagine either a full body floor squirm or a finger wiggle?
Ally Smith: Is the cave likely out for the season now or just temporary?
hms: On the mindset stuff I found this podcast interesting this week: http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2017/11/6/episode-64-fixed-vs-growth-mindset-with-trevor-ra... though ironically more for work team stuff than climbing.
the sheep: Good to hear you have some milestones for 2018, but also that you are adjusting your plans to get some extra runs to meet your 2017 goal.
Dandan82: Great update. Ring dips definitely forces your body position to be more vertical than bar. For OG planning- once you have a plan post it on the reddit group with questions and Stephen will probably comment on it (he is super active).
Tom Green: Good work getting alpine combine results, therre’s nothing like hard data.
mattrm: This might be up your street http://eveningsends.com/five-minute-fingers/
TheFasting: When will the axes and crampons coming out this season?
Climbthatpitch: I’m sure looking after kids on your own is in HR zone 1 right?!
biscuit: What’ your next trip/objective?
planetmarshall: Psyched you’ve ticked some winter routes already! Some hard and awesome stuff on your tick list, inspiring stuff!
Just Tintin: 7 days on… beast.

AWOL: hokkyokusei
AJM - on 03 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> Alan Little: Your lattice numbers check out closely with mine from last year, which checks out roughly with outdoor grades I think, which is slightly reassuring to me. I didn’t really feel like the 24 moves got to the point of using my aerobic system (ie the moves aer too hard to be aerobic at any point) so was slightly concerned it was unrepresentative of that energy system.

The world has clearly moved on. When I first went and saw Tom (the old lattice, in his garden) I clocked in at 28 moves and got told the correlation was with (euro-stamina) ~7a+ onsight (well, originally 7b, but later corrected). They used to compare to onsight grade back in the day.

I was a few months our from the end of the van trip, and the last things I'd been doing were ~6c+/7a onsights (fair enough comparison I guess, Frankenjura hardly counts as Eurostamina) and working 7c+ (close, got wet, no cigar).

Hopefully Ally will correct me with exact numbers but I'm sure his first one was ~40 and was at an equivalent time to onsighting 7c or something equally crazy when compared against that thread.
leon on 03 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Hello all

A long long time since I posted on Fit Club and in that time I got older (43!), lazier, balder & didn't climb ANYTHING!!! (over two years!!!) but at least I didnt get any fatter!

...Anyway before I settle in for a life of sitting down & eating I decided that I need to visit some of those crags I never visited and climb some of those climbs I never climbed .

So I start next week from nothing & hopefully Fit Club will keep me honest & motivated. I don't have any grand designs. I just wanna climb some good stuff.

Next weeks goal: Two sessions (three if my body can cope) in my climbing cellar. Doing anything until it hurts.
MTG: Lead some new mountain/sea cliff HVS (spring time!)
LTG: Lead a new mountain/sea cliff E2 (end of 2018???)
guy127917 - on 03 Dec 2017
In reply to AJM:

What angle was the board at that point?
AJM - on 03 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> AJM: From the dissent you got last week, sounds like the jams are really working your weakness!

Pah!

So, back end of last week I was feeling a bit rubbish whilst the family were on the mend from illness; I was nursing a hope that is escaped with merely several days of feeling rough.

Monday proved that wrong. I got home from work, sat against a radiator for an hour or so, and was in bed wearing 2 layers by 730.

Tuesday a little better but still recovering, and on Wednesday I rested for Thursday.

Thursday I took the morning off and went to Portland. There's a knack to the second move on Force Majeure (f7B). When it works, it just feels hard. When the knacks not there you fly past the hold at a hundred miles an hour and it feels miles off. The knack just didn't seem to be there on Thursday.

This got frustrating after a while. So I switched focus. Devil Face (f7A) has a short punchy start - I got a sequence together that I think works. And Hungover (f7B) is an alternative start to FM, although it climbs quite differently despite using some of the same holds. There's a hard move to get the first hand round the lip, which I didn't do (very blind, spotters to shout "left a bit" etc might help), and then another to match the lip, which I did, then a hard move or two to get to the slots, which I didn't do. But incremental progress and it feels more independent than I had expected it to (I'd thought it would be a move or so different, a "barely a seperate problem" sort of thing). So progress on other things if not on the main goal.

Sam goes right (Devil Force (f7B+)?) but the first moves of Devil Face are about 1.53 here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w891OOKN5X4

Saturday - wall. Not too bad. Managed, once, to hold the jump on the problem I was trying last time. It's very hard.

Feeling sore of back today (both sessions are quite back intensive, plus child wrangling) so rest today. No wall this week as Xmas party instead but going to try to do 2x fingerboard instead.
AJM - on 03 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

The "classic" setting - 27.5 degrees - as far as I know, since all other Lattices are derivatives so it's been kept consistent to maximise data collection...
guy127917 - on 03 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Monday: Z2/3 run 0:40
Tuesday: Rest
Wednesday: Easy fingerboard (2 sets BM1000 5a)
Thursday: Z1 run 1:20
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Gym
20 minutes stair master level 7/87 floors (Z1)
3x10 pull ups
3 x 6 feet to bar
3 x 10 60 kg bench
3 x 10 65 kg deadlifts
3x8 dips
3x10 Swiss Ball push-ups
4x 1 minute plank 1 minute rest
Sunday: 1 hour ARC split into 15 minute-ish segments

Nutrition went well- no binge eating, kept to the plans I made, avoided drinking at work xmas party #1 on Friday. (1 christmas fitclub point!). I’m feeling happier about my weight this week, definitely feels like bulk rather fat, so shouldn’t be too hard to shift.

This week was intended as a recovery week/getting ready for winter training. I think it went well- kept the general volume relatively light but got some stuff done and feel ready to start the next phase of training. I. I’m a bit sore from gym and climbing this evening- shaking off the cobwebs.

This week I pretty much decided to surrender to TFTNA and go all-in on a 29 week training programme. I’ve worked it out as 13 weeks of transition phase, including 2 weeks in Scotland and a week of recovery after each. After that, the volume builds pretty high, peaking at 18.2 hours in week 28- plus 2 strength workouts. Will have to do some serious life planning to make that happen. I haven’t planned a specific phase leading up to alpine trips- I’ll see how I go and assess that nearer the time. Was also happy to find out that the nutritionist I’m working with has just joined forces with Steve House and Scott Backes and is the ‘official’ nutritionist for the programme, so to speak.

Now I’ve settled on the training, I have squeezed another week off work for another Scottish winter trip in January, and have switched the Provence sport climbing trip for another week in the alps. We have also booked our guide, accommodation, flights etc for Feb Scotland trip which is good.

Jan: Scottish Winter trip 1
Feb: Scottish Winter trip 2
June: Cham Alpine trip
July: Swiss Alpine trip
August/Sept: Kyrgyzstan alpine climbing expedition
November: Kalymnos?

In terms of goals:

STG:
* Stick with transition plan for next 4 weeks, through xmas
* Keep accurate log of volume, heart rate data, and training intensity rating for all sessions
* Sort out partners and logistics for Scotland trip #1 (Jan 1st-7th)
* Do enough Theraband work to keep left elbow issues at bay
* Lose 1kg by end of December (below 84kg)
* Improve navigation and condition reading skills in Scotland

MTG:
* Manage to mix in some outdoor trad/sport climbing with the base phase training volume.

LTG:
* New routes/peaks in Krygzstan
Jen-a-Thor - on 03 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Hey Guy and Happy December everyone.
Good challenge, will see how many points I reward myself in the next few weeks ;p

Mon - Sun: rest - been unwell this week and still in the midst of sickness so will probably take it easy next week too. My new training and nutrition plan are going well though. Endurance so far is based on training for the new alpinism. Climbing is a bit unknown at the moment but I know I need to train power and power endurance, will keep up the fingerboard training too. Looking forward to getting stuck in on a new training phase and planning the next years trips.
AlanLittle - on 03 Dec 2017
In reply to AJM:

My figure isn't in any way official - they turned me down for an assessment last year for being too far off the bottom of the scale (I'll show 'em!). I was just curious to see what the thing is like, and to have a benchmark to compare me now against me in the spring.
hms - on 03 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. Busy week, dusted off last year's plan whilst sorting out this year's, plus a bit of pocket benchmarking.

M - cycle commute. Yoga in evening - hips & balance.
T - cycle commute. Home via UCR: warm-up, then 6x6c nails circuit with 3 min rests (so roughly 1 on, 2 off). Cake break then was going to do 1on:1off on 6a but had to slot in with other people on the board. Did the 6b x10 instead with somewhat uneven length rests.
W - cycle commute. UCR routes to 7a+. 14 routes in pairs. Lots of OS - the 7a+ wasn't, several moves need sorting, use the heels more!
T - cycle commute. Pre/hab: TRX I/Y/T 30 of each. Bicep curl into shoulder press modest weight x lots. Theraband elbow, theraband shoulder, weight on a stick.
F - 2 mile urban walking. TCA for long session in afternoon. The comp problems had already gone, but the V2-V4 probs had been reset. Several were hard but v good, so worked on them. Cup of tea then lattice min on min off x10. Tired.
S - rest, collecting D2 from uni.
S - FB benchmarking on pockets especially. Highlight was getting to +28kg for 5 sec 2 handed hang on deep 2 finger pockets - could have gone higher but ran out of easily accessible weights and had lots of other benchmarking to do!
AlanLittle - on 03 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

STG (a): Shoulder & elbow rehab exercises at least 3x per week. Yes.
STG (b): regain the ability to do a left leg pistol. Only a couple of desultory sessions, but that's more than none.
MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint multiple 7b's that aren't pure boulder problems
LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M:
T: Wall, Boulderwelt with my son. A weak & desultory session: having focused almost entirely on route endurance since June, I seem to have forgotten how to even attempt anything powerful. The only productive part was half an hour shoulders & elbows afterwards in the weights room.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. 9 routes to 6c. An odd session - despite warming up carefully, hit what felt like a terminal flash pump wall on the first couple of harder attempts. But then to my surprise recovered, and did ok for the last hour. Rounded off with 15 minutes up-down-up ARCing on boulders.
T:
F: Another benchmark for the start of winter training: fingerboard max hang 58% of bodyweight one-handed for five seconds on a small campus rung (18mm)
S:
S: Boulderwelt with my son. Another weak bouldering session, perhaps fractionally less weak than Tuesday. Still seem to have some endurance though, managed a few decent rounds on circuits afterwards. Gear tip of the week: newly resoled Miura XX's are not a good footwear choice for bouldering on little slippery plastic chips unless you actually like that clog dancing feeling.
Half an hour forearm massage & antagonists while reading reviews of the armaid & deciding to order one.
Ally Smith on 03 Dec 2017
In reply to AJM:

I'm fairly certain that Tom's original lattice board was harder than the commercialised version.

My understanding of the move/grade correlation on that board were:

40=7c on-sight (I scored 39 moves 2 months after a successful trip to Rodellar where i on-sighted 7c/+)
70=8a on-sight (I scored 69 moves 3 weeks after going to Kalymnos and doing my first "8a" on-sight and a few 7c+ on-sights)

Last Feb/Mar I managed a fairly ridiculous 196 moves on the commercial board. i felt similarly fit to the Kalymnos trip and did a 8b+ RP (on-sights didn't happen because most of Chulilla was soaking wet; only did a solitary 7c on sight)
AJM - on 03 Dec 2017
In reply to Ally Smith:

> I'm fairly certain that Tom's original lattice board was harder than the commercialised version.

I mean, that's obviously what both our test results suggest - if 40 moves is 7c onsight and I was sub 30 moves whilst making appreciable dents into 7c+ redpoint that's clearly on a different scale to 30=7b r/p.

It makes my equalling of old best lattice score during my terminally unfit phase this June less impressive/more believable (delete as appropriate). But then I'm sure I asked them if old and new were meant to be comparable and I thought that the theory was that they were.
Si dH - on 03 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy, yep, keen to see how it goes too, just hoping that life allows me to stick to it properly. This week I did the benchmarking required before starting it, and the first of 15 sessions.

STGs:

- Don't reinjure my finger
- Keep up 1 or 2 sessions per week of shoulder/core training
- Follow 5 week trainingbeta advanced finger training program (started 02/12, so should theoretically finish 15 sessions by 07/01/18.)
- Get finger strength up around 8a+ level on lattice edge ideally. Min target to get back to hanging 67.5kg with either arm on the bm2000 20mm, which was my previous best.)

MTGs:

January-March 2018:
- weight down to 71.5kg
- Tetris

April 2018:
- do 7B in Font
- Eastwood Traverse

LTG: either The Mentalist or Caviar depending on whether family commitments allow for any routes next summer.

M: nothing, away with work
T: nothing
W, T: benchmarking for the new training programme. I was so wiped after doing the first 6 or 7 hold types on Wednesday evening that I had to do the rest on Thursday morning to avoid them being pointless! This was, obviously, a pretty good training session in itself. The protocol is to add weight on a hold up about 30-35lbs, but then to switch to a smaller edge. I'm way over that with two hands on 18mm or 20mm, so this means I'm training on the bm2000 micros, 14mm. I've never benchmarked on these before so interested in others' comparisons if you have. Results below*
F: rest
S: first session of training programme. Took about 2.5 hrs, harder work than I've pushed myself fingerboarding in recent past (which hopefully is good!) This first session involved 10 x 10 seconds hangs on the 14 mm edge with half crimp, 10 x 10 second hangs pinching my ceiling beams, 10 x 10 second hangs with 3 fingers open hand on an 18mm edge (aa battery.) All hangs with about 85% of my max added weight, with about 3 mins rest between every one. For me doing a max hang session, 30 hangs was super high volume. Although I used to usually hang 100% of my 10 s max for 5-6 seconds, rather than a bit less for 10 s, so this is subtly different.
S: did a short shoulder session (4 each of 5xlow rows, 5x reverse flies, 5x IYWs.)

Overall pleased with the start of the new plan, now need to keep it up.

My lattice edge should arrive tomorrow so I'll benchmark on that too this week.

Si

* Benchmarks 30/11/17. The idea is to recheck these every 2-3 weeks I think.
Bodyweight at 77.5kg clothed. All maxes for 10 seconds.
14mm open hand/chisel 4 fingers +11.3kg
14mm half crimp +7.9kg
Pinches (ceiling rafters) +7.9kg
18mm open hand 3 fingers +19.6kg
2 finger pocket (bm2000 middle one, 25mm?) middle two +9.0kg
2 finger pocket (bm2000 middle one, 25mm?) front two +2.3kg
35 degree sloper +27.6kg (I can't properly hang the 45s so there is no way of making this harder without adding more weight.)
20mm edge (bm2000 bottom middle) half crimp one arm: -11kg RH, -13kg LH
(that last done at just engaged, at half lock and at full lock: no significant difference in results.)
Post edited at 19:36
mrchewy - on 03 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Happily today involved a cheap and cheerful carvery back in the UK - no complaints! Thanks for this Guy, inspiring as usual.

Mon - Physio. Drove everywhere for an hour and it seemed like the hunters had closed down all of Trois Pignon and half od everywhere else. Ended up at Bois Rond, warmed up on an off circuit sit start. Impossible when you can't lock off but got me all sweaty and then went and ticked a blue project, only 4B but significantly harder than any 6A I've done in the Peak... until, after maybe 50 attempts I unlocked some cheeky beta no one else seems to use and there it was - a 4B after all. Font 4B that is, and still harder than any 5+ I've done in the Peak. Then worked blue 31, 5B which I have to do a really strong way but couldn't quite get the sloper to latch.

BROKEN - struggled to get back to the van, the pain in the knee was so bad after 3.5 weeks that I decided to ignore the physio and necked some ibruprofen for the last few days. 800mg in one hit plus a lot of beer. The shoulder tendon could wait.

Tue - Physio. Knee was normal for me! It felt so good. Gorge aux Chats was damp. Corne Biche, the 7C wall on it's own was dry so actually tried to pull on but it was super warm in the sun, too warm. Marius sacked it off after a few goes. It's only three moves (4 for me) but on razor crimps that require a dyno to the top. Harsh on the skin when warm. I struggled just to pull on. Then Canche aux Mercier, which was damp also, so didn't bother but the place seemed a lot like Bas Cuvier and Isatis, totally uninspiring for me. More Ibruprofen!
Wed - Physio. Last day. Decided to go back and try La Dalle Fleaux, a textbook 6B slab again but it was a little warm. Got super close but the right knee was just too unstable and had me off if I pushed too hard through it on the last moves. Decided to take a break from it, ticked a 6A really quickly and then it rained. So the hardest tick was the last boulder I did - at the start of the trip, with the shoulder tendon and the ACL issues, I'd have happily come home with nice 5.
Thu - Slept as drove home through the night.
Fri - Good physio session and painful massage of the tendon. Then to The Weedon Project, a new boulder gym. Small but good holds and good setting. Only open a week, so no finger boards yet and the campus rails still need a foot rail but a good addition to the area. Flashed some V2 and then jumped on the V5 slab... okay, after Bleau this felt easy and wouldn't be more than a V1 there but nice all the same. Rich Winters set most of it, so hopefully that standard will be kept up. Had a go on the campus rails (never have before) which was daft after the tendon massage. Never going to happen!
Sat - Physio session and mobility work. Certainly improving but having to use light weights to get the stretching to happen. It's going to be a long road.
Sun - Daughter visiting, so carvery and a movie.

Bleau - I nearly cancelled the trip after the shockwave therapy but glad now I went. Not being able to lockoff with either arm meant top outs were never less than full blown sketchy but that also meant I really had to commit at times to hard moves knowing that if I latched the top rail, then it might just get a lot worse. So a good trip for the head, in the sense that at times I just climbed with no thought of the top or the fall. Sticking to easier stuff (!!! the circuits have their own system !!!) and forgetting about grade progress was great, I feel like I served my apprenticeship on bleau sandstone and the rock definitely became easier to read, if not to climb. My footwork still needs me to have more faith. I stood on the smallest things I ever have but I really needed to relax onto the feet even more and then everything would have become easier, so on some slabs I stopped on the worst feet and waited until I was relaxed before moving on - and generally falling off! Ha. Bleau is a harsh mistress in the circuits but I'll head back for sure.

December - unsure what to do now I'm home. I'm having another shockwave treatment on Tuesday, so the shoulder will be super weak again and I generally have zero enthusiasm for indoors at the best of times. Can't really do a stack of cardio until the ACL is fully recovered, so what do I do? I'm considering joining a 'normal' gym for the month and doing some all round stuff. Anyone got any better ideas?

TheFasting on 03 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

It's looking like the tools are coming out already next weekend. Reports are that the ice is nice in Rjukan, so me and a team of guys from my new FB group for ice and alpine climbers are heading out on a top-rope mission next weekend. Hopefully after that I'll have 8 more marathon days of top-roping until I'm Will Gadd Certified^tm for leading some easy ice this season. 135 pitches to go...

This week was pretty alright, I give it a 7/10.

Monday:

- Bouldering session. This time I flashed a few 6A+ but otherwise didn't have success on anything. I still felt the after-effects of what I thought had been a lazy trad day the previous weekend. Did some fun dihedral problems on the system wall too.

- Afterwards spent way too long enjoying myself in the gym (handed in my thesis the weekend before and a long time until next exam so had nothing but time). In total I was there for 3.5 hours.

Squats: 90 kg for 3 sets of 8.

Bench: 80 kg for 1 set of 5 and 2 sets of 8 (last rep reeeeally grindy). Might not be able to do 3 sets of 10 next time.

Deadlift: 100 kg for 3 sets of 8.

Hangboard: 5 sets of 3-6-9 for open hand (30mm), crimp (20mm) and half crimp (20mm). This is technically the 3rd week of the program, but I do it so slowly I've spent 5 weeks getting there.

Tuesday:
- 1h15m stair climbing. Got 690m vertical.

Wednesday:

- Route climbing session. Got on the autobelay and did nearly every route below 6a on the second floor of the gym (about 8 routes in an hour). Then I flashed a 6a+. Was very surprising considering everyone seemed to struggle on it. Does give me confidence I can get a 6a on lead soon. Pls.

- I was supposed to squat bench and deadlift again, but my legs felt shot. So I did weighted pull-ups instead.

Tried a 50 kg pull-up. Form far from perfect but it's good enough for me: https://www.instagram.com/p/BcHX87VjyGf/?taken-by=thefasting

Looks like the one arm chin-up training has been paying off.

After I did 3 sets of 4 reps with 30 kg.

Thursday:

- Did nothing. Can't remember why.

Friday:

- First went outside bouldering for a quick hour. It was -3C and snowy, but the rock was dry. Did the top half and first move of Lienmat (f7A), might become my first 7A. Just have to hold that starting move and do the next one and I have it.

Then worked more on what is my actual realistic project 8a.nu (f6C+), where I figured out more of the foot beta that I fell because of last time. Got one move further, botched the beta afterwards. Very close to figuring out the whole thing now. Might be able to send it this winter if the top out isn't slippery.

- In the evening, 1h15m of stair climbing. Did 724m vertical. Might be closing in on my PR vertical hour soon.

Saturday:

- 2.5 hour stair climb. Did 1384m vertical, for 2800m combined this week. Prettyyyyy prettyyyyyyyyyy pretty good.

Sunday:

- Was supposed to go skiing but felt like I had been hit by a bus when I woke up, so I didn't.
Tyler - on 03 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:
> Afternoon all, ’tis the season to be merry. How about a very casual December challenge for the more waist-line-challenged amongst us? It goes like this- you award yourself a point for every time you DON’T do something ‘just because its Christmas’. Fair game includes cheeky mince pies in the office, skipping workouts because you are hungover, going back for seconds, the additional cheese course etc etc (you decide).
I like this one but I might have to give my self minus points as it still leaves me too much scope to gorge, after all no one should be rewarded for eating just one chocolate log instead of two!

> Tyler: I feel the need to intervene after last week’s cry for help post! .
It's what I needed but too late now, I was 10'12" this morning which is about 5" over a good weight for me, I'm pretty annoyed with myself to be honest I've not been this heavy a all year. Still, no point worrying now and I've already had my first Goma II burger of the week so I'm unlikely to get any lighter before I come home!

> Smash it in Siurana
Well it's meant to be freezing this week so I might be allowed to climb in the sun for a change, it also wants I won't have to try my target route which I am too fat/unfit for.

This week I've just had three BUK session, thought he last one on Friday was pretty gentle (I fell off my warm ups twice!). I did manage 1min, 1off FoC on Wednesday which is a first, next to complete the four rep set.
Post edited at 22:43
Tyler - on 03 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> Wednesday: Easy fingerboard (2 sets BM1000 5a
Cripes, is that easy? I bought the app and had a go at this one on Tuesday and it did not seem easy to me (I never completed it!)
LauraMorrissey - on 04 Dec 2017
LauraMorrissey - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

This week I was visiting friends in Canberra for 4 days so not much climbing. We did a few short walks in the bush and saw some MASSIVE kangaroos. Way too many insects in Australia and also its snake season… so that’s fun. None sighted yet – but I have been reading up on snake bites just in case.

My knee appears to be getting worse and I’m wondering if cycling might be contributing to it. Have another session with my physio on Tuesday.

STG:
*2 pull ups
*lead a 18 (5c) at Kangaroo Point
MTG:
*Lead "Zeitgeist" at Mt Tibrogargan in March/April when it’s cooler. Route is 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c) - need to work on my lead head/route finding
*do 5 pull ups by 31/01/2018
*Uni loop on bike (approx. 25km/16miles)
LTG:
*Cycle to Nudgee beach (50km/32miles) by June 2018
*climb a big wall before I'm 40

Monday
AM Training
5 sets
x10 barbell hip thrusts (40kg)
x10 good mornings (16kg kettlebell)

1 set (30sec on/5 sec rest)
- rope whips
- shuttle runs
- set ups
- V sit ups
- jump squats
- 15kg sandbag get ups

3 sets
3 way shoulder exercises with dumbbell (3kg, 5kg, 3kg)

PM Climbing
- 4x4s - highest grade 17(5b)
- resistance band knee exercise
- x3 sets assisted chin ups to max (i.e. do not count half chin up) - managed 4, 3, 3

Tuesday
- rest day.... REEL ROCK! Margo

Wednesday
AM Training
warm up x 2 sets (10 of each) - full body twists, butterfly glute bridges, shoulder clocks, bench pistols

4 sets
x8 bench dumbbell overhead back extension (15kg)
x10 incline bench barbell row (30kg)
x5 push ups

x10 sumo squats (20kg kettlebell)
x2 sets v-sit ups x 6 each legs (8kg kettlebell)

Thursday
Fly to Canberra

Friday
Short walks around Canberra

Saturday
Another short hike

Sunday
Another short hike - fly home
LauraMorrissey - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

oh also do I get #1 as I missed my work Christmas party all together

and I'll make that #2 for resisting an advent calendar.... that was hard.
guy127917 - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to Tyler:
You must be joking or have a different version to me? At what point do you find it hard? (The previous version of the app from a couple of years ago was much harder)
Post edited at 05:56
Climbthatpitch - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy

Defiantly a zone 1 and a few strength workouts chucked in when having to re tidy there bedrooms after they have already done it and pushed everything to one side

STG-Last Week

2 x condition sessions - Tick
2 x run - Tick

STG-Next week

3 x climb (1 on indoor tools 20 pitches, 220 meters)
1 x Mountain Walk - 6 hours
1 x run - Short <20 min fast pace
Make sure I do press ups, dips and core before all climbing sessions
1x TFTNA Conditioning
Stretch more

MTG - Next march

2 trips to Scotland - want to climb up to grade 3

Alpine combine from training for the new alpinism - Increase all by 10%

Climb 2 more e1 on limestone
HVS on 2 other rock types than limestone
Sport 6c

BHAG

The 1938 Route (ED2)
Anything on El Cap

Last weeks training

M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Run 5.3km, 6:30 pace, 207 meters elevation
T - 1 round TFTNA conditioning
F - Rest
S - 2 rounds TFTNA conditioning
S - Run 11.8km, 6:39 pace, 299 meters elevation

Lee
Dandan82 - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to Si dH:

>I'm training on the bm2000 micros, 14mm. I've never benchmarked on these before so interested in others' comparisons if you have. Results below*

> 14mm open hand/chisel 4 fingers +11.3kg

> 14mm half crimp +7.9kg

I just checked my training diary and I was doing +20kg on the 14mm BM2k slot for 10 seconds, 5 sets, so max would have been something like +22.5 to 25kg? or 87.5 to 90kg incl. bodyweight.
That would have been slightly bent arms and half crimp (I half crimp everything).
This would have been when all was well and I was eyeing up 8b on my next holiday, and finger strength would definitely not have been my limiting factor.
I don't have stats for any of your other holds, sorry!
Ally Smith on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Morning Guy, i'm in need of a little Christmas discipline after indulging at a winter wedding this weekend!

The Cave is normally the most reliable outdoor climbing in the NW over the winter, but seepage can be a problem. The second sidepull on Lou Ferrino has got wetter in the last coupe of years because of a little breakage - maybe some stabilisation work is needed?

Week 49
M - Nowt. Ab #DOMS. More house prep then super fatty thai meal – everything was deep fried!
T - Also nowt – stop being lazy!
W - Cave session #2. Lantern. Cold. Repeated LW and Cave Life during warm-up. Worked The Wire and managed to link crux section for first time. Also did all the meat of Broken Heart with the new foot beta I’ll be using from The Wire. Also reminded myself of LWR crux and In Life start.
T - 77.3kg ? - too many doughnuts and cookies. Prehab session #4 – short on time - concentrated on shoulders. 4 rounds; 10x TRX reverse fly, 20x TRX ab roll out, 10x wide pull-up, 15x TRX flys.
F - WFH – installed new lattice edge at lunchtime, but didn’t have time to do any proper testing. Rushed an ancap-esque FB on the Beastmaker; might have been a PB for continuous BW hang (85s). Static oblique planks (6x 40s) and dynamic (3x100 crunchies) and 10/10/10/10 diamond/normal/wide/archer press-ups x3 (all inclined – need to work on this) – then long drive north.
S - Wedding. Only 2 hours dancing.
S - Seaside recovery walk.
Tyler - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> You must be joking or have a different version to me? At what point do you find it hard? (The previous version of the app from a couple of years ago was much harder)

I should have written that more clearly. I didn't think it was easy but I didn't complete as I ran out of time, mentioning that I hadn't completed it was in the interests of full disclosure! I think I should be able to complete but I'd really have to try, when I get back I intend to do one of the routines regularly.
Tom Green on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thanks Guy. Hi All.

Good to see festive food guilt is already happening! My version of this goal will be to try to continue applying my normal food goal: “No snacks. Stop eating when full”. Obviously these only apply at home. For mountain days I go all out for the opposite, with food goals “Eat at every belay. Carb load every evening”!

This week has been predictably frustrating, with prioritising getting over the lurgy seeing minimal training, a cancelled day on the rock and a cancelled weekend in Scotland. It has been hard telling myself that this is a sensible plan for the greater good. But over the worst now, so looking ahead...

SHORT TERM GOALS (BY 31 DEC 17)
PROCESS:
Run a minimum of 500m vertical per week
Average two core sessions per week
Average two shoulder prehab sessions per week
END GAME:
Walk (or skin) 1200m height gain, with 18kg, in <4hrs
E1 on any rock type
M8 Redpoint
'El Cap Nose Day' (880m climbing in one day)
Improve Alpine Combine Test by 10% in each category.

MEDIUM TERM GOALS (BY 30 APR 18)
Scottish VII
5 routes of ED1 or above
5 Black Runs
Improve Alpine Combine Test by a further 10% in each category

LAST WEEK
M: The depths of lurgy. Snot gone from yellow to green. Short of breath. Rest.
T: Lurgy seems to have plateaued. Snot yellow again. Shoulder Rehab (Bands)
W: Lurgy subsiding a little. Snot mixed yellow nd clear. Rest
T: Lurgy is now on the run. Snot clear but still feel weaker than the average kitten. Shoulder Rehab (bands).
F: Enforced road cycle to get back from dropping van at garage. 25km in 55min. Slightly short of breath/coughing.
S: Still a bit snotty and coughs, but over the worst. Rest.
S: Feel like further mention of disease is probably bordering on hyperchondria. Plan on ignoring any further clinical signs. Core Session situps, planks, A-frames (6kg) -felt harder than usual, failed on 3rd set.
Tom Green on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> Tom Green: Good work getting alpine combine results, therre’s nothing like hard data.

Thanks Guy, was pretty psyched to get some numbers down. Soul destroying that they are all in the ‘crap category’ from TFTNA, but I guess that’s in relation to full time pros, right?! Like F5 climbers measuring themselves on the lattice against Ondra? -that’s what I’m telling myself anyway!

Like you said last week, just having numbers gives me a target to aim for, so I’m hoping my year end test will be miles better!

Are you going to do the test before embarking on your TFTNA programme?

the sheep - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:
> the sheep: Good to hear you have some milestones for 2018, but also that you are adjusting your plans to get some extra runs to meet your 2017 goal.

Cheers Guy, bit of a mixed week which may well put the swimming goal out of reach Managed to knock a frying pan off the stove last Sunday evening and cover the back of my hand with hot oil, it blistered up OK early in the week so was sill able to swim. However knocked it on Wednesday evening and everything went pop and the skin came away. Currently getting the dressings changed several times and week and swimming well and truly off limits for the moment as im missing about a third of the skin.

Anyway still able to run so not a complete disaster, week went as follows;

Monday, hand in pain so nothing

Tuesday, things had calmed down so hit the pool. Good 3km stroke improvement session

Wednesday, day off for Christmas shopping, manged to sneak a 10km run in too

Thursday, nothing bar a trip to the docs to get the burn looked at

Friday and Saturday, zip

Sunday, 7.5km trail run
AJM - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to hms:

> Pre/hab: TRX I/Y/T 30 of each. Bicep curl into shoulder press modest weight x lots.

What's the rationale for high reps (i.e. why not make it harder and focus on building strength)?
AJM - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to TheFasting:

> a top-rope mission next weekend. Hopefully after that I'll have 8 more marathon days of top-roping until I'm Will Gadd Certified^tm for leading some easy ice this season. 135 pitches to go...

I'm not sure I've ever done 135 pitches of ice climbing! Why so much toproping? I mean, you can trivialise the difference between toproping and leading, but you can also over emphasise it...
Si dH - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

> >I'm training on the bm2000 micros, 14mm. I've never benchmarked on these before so interested in others' comparisons if you have. Results below*

> I just checked my training diary and I was doing +20kg on the 14mm BM2k slot for 10 seconds, 5 sets, so max would have been something like +22.5 to 25kg? or 87.5 to 90kg incl. bodyweight.

> That would have been slightly bent arms and half crimp (I half crimp everything).

> This would have been when all was well and I was eyeing up 8b on my next holiday, and finger strength would definitely not have been my limiting factor.

> I don't have stats for any of your other holds, sorry!

Thanks Dan. What were you doing on 20mm or 18mm edges at the time?
guy127917 - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to Tom Green:

Haha I have to now you've asked that don't I!

I don't have numbers to hand but I've done the situps/pressups/plank/pullups tests a couple of times before. I've never managed the motivation to do the box steps. You should be able to get to the good category for those pretty easily. The box steps... just remember there is no such thing as a free lunch.
Dandan82 - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> Dandan82: Great update. Ring dips definitely forces your body position to be more vertical than bar. For OG planning- once you have a plan post it on the reddit group with questions and Stephen will probably comment on it (he is super active).

Thanks as always Guy, I'm not sure i'm young and hip enough to use Reddit, but i'll investigate because my OG plan is low on pulling exercises as I feel the climbing covers that base, be good to know if he would agree.

The Crimbo eating challenge reminded me of a food based anecdote I heard, it was on a recent training beta podcast with Paige Claasen, she said that while in Flatanger where she ticked Odins Eye (8c+), she ate a very high protein diet which she felt really helped keep her energy up and her recovery times short. I know excess protein is not a good thing in the long term but does anyone have any opinion/experience of using it like this for a short period (on holiday for example) to maximise recovery? Her reasoning to do it was more due to the local availability of foods, i.e mostly meat, but she was convinced it had an effect.

I had a good week, another net gain in terms of elbow health, it's almost got to the point where it is not hurting at all while climbing and is only a post climbing annoyance, which is fantastic. I still need to keep a lid on things though, as I think excessive hard volume was the cause of the whole problem so I need to ease back into pulling hard slowly.

M: I think I did some more adjustments to the OG session plan, then did most of the session not including the ring dips as the DOMS had barely subsided from last time.
Decent handstands with a couple of long holds and a lot better shoulder endurance, ring press ups improved significantly after only 1 session, comfortable sets of 8, nice and deep.
I did a back lever progression move called 'skin the cat', basically hang from a bar and kick your legs up between your arms like you would in the playground on a monkey bar, then you keep rolling over backwards and lower your feet down as close to the floor as you can, into a position called a German hang. It's a very alien position for me, I think climber's shoulders are just not stressed in this way as I found it pretty agonising and couldn't bring my feet down very low (I'd guess my torso was barely past horizontal and the diagrams indicate I should be able to get it nearly vertical!).
Front lever progressions concentrating on *perfect* form so I have to bend both legs to hold a good position.
The muscle up progression was eccentric muscle ups, so starting at the top of the motion, dipping down then rotating into the chin-up position then lowering. The transition for me feels completely free-falling, there is just no strength there at all, I studied a bunch of videos to check the technique and did find some pointers but there is still a lot of work to be done here.

T: Insane DOMS from the 'skin the cat', my biceps felt like they'd been through a wringer!
Indoor boulder; I emailed Tom about doing endurance work without too much volume and he suggested carefully trying 1 on 1 off as the best bet. I did it on the traverse wall at the Project and actually my endurance didn't feel as bad as I feared, I did it on the blue holds which i'm pretty sure I was using 3 or 4 months ago. Elbow survived well.

W: OG session; I want to do this 3 times a week, Mon, Wed, Fri, but to ease in I skipped this session as my biceps were still ruined! I did do the warm up and handstands though and got another new record, 23 seconds!

T: Indoor Boulder; Did endurance again, and as per usual, I tried to push things a bit, so did it on the harder pink circuit, planning to drop to the blue if it felt too hard. I got through the whole thing on pink, the elbow complained a little but it was all good, it was really nice to be able to actually try hard for a change, also it seems my endurance isn't completely dead because I struggled to do 10 reps of this circuit before the elbow problems began!

F: OG session; I'm sure I began this with the intention of doing the whole thing but never got to the rings stuff.
Handstands were abysmal, no holds over about 6 seconds, proper let down.
Skin the cat felt possibly harder than last time, it really feels like it's on the ragged edge of something tearing loose! I'll be careful with this.
Front levers were ok.
I think perhaps the elbow was feeling it after the harder endurance session the day before so I did what comes so hard to me and sacked things off early.

S: Very little that I can recall. Stretching, but I just can't seem to repeat the feeling of release on the calf nerve that I managed a couple of weeks ago. Hamstring stretching is still really hard and painful with very little progress and almost no progress carried between sessions, it's pretty frustrating.

S: Indoor routes; went to Calshot where they had run a lead comp the day before so there were actually some new, semi-hard routes up! I didn't try the men's route (supposedly 7b+/c) as I heard nobody topped it so I knew I'd likely wreck my elbow trying to onsight it. It'll keep for a few weeks.
I did however onsight the ladies and boys problems which were both supposed to be about 7a+. One seemed about 7a+, the other more like 7a, but the important thing was I really comfortably cruised up them. It seems my endurance is doing alright, at least for 2 minute burns. Perhaps the poor performance on 6c last week was a blip, I'm very happy to find some endurance still hanging about. If the Project would open up their flipping Lattice board for public use already I could test it to be sure.

More of the same this week, I'm getting quite excited that I might be able to do some hard stuff in Margalef in January now, I just have to keep going steady for another month!
I've done some more work on the Margalef logbook page, nearly 250 extra routes added now along with 5 or 6 new sectors, and I've still got a chunk left to do! It's quite useful going through the crags in such detail, it really gives you a chance to see what might be worth a visit even when it's not immediately obvious.
Dandan82 - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to Si dH:

> Thanks Dan. What were you doing on 20mm or 18mm edges at the time?

I had to go back to June when I was doing 7/3 repeaters at 75% of total 10 second hang weight. With a bit of reverse number crunching, my AA slot (18mm) 10s max hang was +38kg or 103kg total

I thought I might have some 1 hand hang on AA slot numbers but can't find anything...
guy127917 - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

On my recent trip I took boiled eggs, and low fat high protein cheese ("queso fresca" I think) in addition to rice cakes, bananas and avocados to the crag, and felt a notable improvement in energy levels and muscle recovery over my trip. However that's compared to munching massive baguettes, spanish cake/doughnuts and whole sticks of chorizo so...

Also possibly related, Rebecca recommended I drink a protein shake through training sessions rather than after. Can't comment on efficacy of that yet.
AlanLittle - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to Dandan82:

For another point of anecdata - and two points fit the line perfectly, right? - in the summer when I last measured I was at +12kgs for 6 seconds on the BM small edge, and +8kgs for 10 seconds.

That's a redpoint level in the low 7's, and better on short sharp fingery things than on pumpy endurance challenges.
Jen-a-Thor - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to LauraMorrissey:

Australians are weird. And wonderful. But mainly weird.
AJM - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to Si dH:

> 2 finger pocket (bm2000 middle one, 25mm?) middle two +9.0kg
> 2 finger pocket (bm2000 middle one, 25mm?) front two +2.3kg

When you say middle, are we talking middle of the middle row next to the uneven depth back2 pockets, or the shallower ones in the middle of the bottom row next to the slopey pockets...?
Si dH - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to AJM:

> When you say middle, are we talking middle of the middle row next to the uneven depth back2 pockets, or the shallower ones in the middle of the bottom row next to the slopey pockets...?

The former. I can't currently hang bodyweight for more than a couple of seconds with front 2 on the smallest ones. I think I used to be able to add a few kg for 10 seconds with middle 2 when at my strongest, but not much.
Tom Green on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> Haha I have to now you've asked that don't I!

Sorry... No pressure! I don't want to be the FitClub bully!

>The box steps... just remember there is no such thing as a free lunch.

And the harder you try, the quicker you can stop!
AJM - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to Si dH:

Fair enough. I was just warming the fingers back into pockets a bit this evening so thought I'd ask. So far I can do bodyweight on the bottom row ones on middle 2 but only a few seconds on front 2. Like you, I'm sure I've done more in the past.
Powderpuff on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Thank you for the warm welcome!

Tuesday=quantity 8, v2-3 problems at the wall , easy session

Friday= quantity 3, v3-5 problems at the wall
Also worked a v6 linking all the moves bar the last one, close but no cigar!

Sunday=beastmaker at home.
20 pull ups
20 push ups
3 sets of 10 rep leg raises
3 sets of 10 eccentric wrist curls


I'll think about goals for 2018 and post them next.

Thanks for the kick up the arse I need it ?


Si dH - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to AJM:

Am also mid-session. I just got my lattice edge up this evening.

Think I find it easier than my bm2000 20mm edge, which is nice. It feels smaller when unweighted, but fits my fingers better and I can hang more.

I'm already somewhere between 8a and 8a+ benchmarks for my right hand but only at 7c to 7c+ level with my left hand, for 5 second hangs. Pretty chuffed considering current bodyweight. Hopefully the LH will catch up with RH after a few weeks of training.

Well impressed at Alan's 14mm edge figures when climbing low 7s!
AJM - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to Si dH:

I thought you might find the whole 8a+ fingers thing nearer than you figured.

I've never really gotten on with the middle BM hold - my setup doesn't allow me to use it one armed anyway but it always seemed to force a finger position that somehow didn't quite fit. My old edge was probably easier than the lattice edge, but you're unlikely to have that as a comparison!

I think my lattice hang is just shy of 67kg, incidentally.
AlanLittle - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to Si dH:

> Well impressed at Alan's 14mm edge figures when climbing low 7s!

Meaning: Alan must have really crap head / endurance / technique / tactical skills?

Guilty as charged.
LauraMorrissey - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to Jen-a-Thor:

are you saying I'm weird? Or all Australians, except me?
mattrm - on 04 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight
MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD
LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 3lbs

M - T - Rest
F - Indoor routes
S - S - Rest

Going down the wall on Friday isn't a great idea. I was utterly knackered. It was ok, but I didn't get much out of it really. Nice for the social aspect I guess. But that was it. No run either. But I did skate to the wall, which was nice.

The five minute thing does look good. If I could combine it with the other indoors stuff I was doing it could work. Assuming I can find the time for it. Which is the main issue. I come home, cook tea, then it's bathtime, then I take my son for the rest of the evening. Any suggestions along the lines of 'why don't you wake up early' will be met with the sound of me snoring.

I think the main aim as a decent christmas present to myself would be to get to 13st 13lbs. Which seems doable.
Si dH - on 05 Dec 2017
In reply to mattrm:

Have you got somewhere you can work out and take the baby? Or a semi reliable way of getting them to sleep? (I use a baby carrier for that sometimes.)
Just thinking about ways you can workout while also looking after the baby. I've done fingerboard sessions with Sol a good few times now although he doesn't like the cellar very much and there's a limit to what I want to do while carrying him. Eg hangs ok, IYWs not so much.

Alternatively swap some time one evening for a morning/nighttime slot with your wife? We give/take from each others' normal schedules all the time so that each of us can do evening things.

Just trying to think outside the box
Climbthatpitch - on 05 Dec 2017
In reply to mattrm:

Another suggestion I know it is not running but can you get your hands on a baby carrier. Put the little one in there and some extra weight and walk up a hill. A way to get some aerobic training in

Lee
AJM - on 05 Dec 2017
In reply to mattrm:

> I come home, cook tea, then it's bathtime, then I take my son for the rest of the evening.

Doesn't leave a lot of time for much else does it!

I'd echo the recommendations of the others. Certainly I used to enjoy walks with the baby rucksack once he was big enough (and the weather nice enough) for that.

And fingerboarding has got to be a key consideration. Only away from the baby for what, 10-20s at a time (and he's still fairly immobile, right, that fun is still mostly to come), massive rests for playtime, and it's addressing a long term limitation in a way that laps at the wall isn't so much. Ditto weights, if you have any at home, similar nice long rests although probably less relevant overall...
Jen-a-Thor - on 05 Dec 2017
In reply to LauraMorrissey:

All of you...including you ;p
Jen-a-Thor - on 05 Dec 2017
In reply to mattrm:

I like how this thread has turned into how to use your child as a training tool! I'm very impressed how much you guys do as parents!
Living in London I often see plenty of people running along pushing buggies. Surely the additional load must be good for training?!

I haven't read all of your previous threads so apologies if I go over any old ground.
What is your exercise normality? Perhaps this should be more future focussed, much more specific and be your medium term goal? - E.g. lose 4lbs, complete beastmaker 5a workout, be able to run 1hr per week (no reflection on your actual skill level - I just picked some random goals) - whatever it is that you want and then a date that you want to achieve it, perhaps 6 or 12 weeks from now. This might take a little longer with a little one so be realistic but be specific and put a date on it.

Then your short term goal could be something that you know you can do in a week that builds towards this goal. Something small and achievable to increase the chance of success. - For example, a healthier snack choice, 1 fingerboard session a week, a 10 minute jog with or without child depending on your personal situation.

Start really small and achievable and gradually build on it week on week...softly softly catchee monkey. This way you will be more likely to stick to your goals and form habits which will grow into success. Before you know it you will be well on your way.
Keeping notes of your training in a journal/spreadsheet etc. is also a great way of seeing your success and keeping you motivated.
planetmarshall on 05 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

> planetmarshall: Psyched you’ve ticked some winter routes already! Some hard and awesome stuff on your tick list, inspiring stuff!

Cheers! Really pleased to get out so early in the season - I've already climbed more than I did in 2016/17 I've removed Sundance (VIII 8) as I think it's an unrealistic target for this year. Would love to do it eventually, though.

Last week -

Got hit by the Winter Flu last week and was completely wiped out. Just a short session on Sunday at The Foundry up to 6b.

STG

Back to training. At least two strength sessions during the week. Probably staying local at the weekend but at least try and get out and maintain hill fitness.

MTG

Some of these are pretty ambitious for this year, but...

Scottish Winter 2017/18

Fallout Corner (VI 7)
The Hoarmaster (VI 6)
Savage Slit (V 6)
The Guillotine (V 6)
Tholl Gate (VI 6)
Orion Face Direct (V 5)
Kami-kaze (VI 7)
Central Buttress (VI 7)
Shang-High (VII 7)
Central Grooves (VII 7)


Bouldering

Banana Finger (f6A)
Technical Master (f6B)
Crescent Arête (f5+)


British Trad Routes (Early 2018)

The File (VS 4c)
Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
The Sloth (HVS 5a)
The HVSs on Hen Cloud
The Unconquerables
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
The Embankment routes at Millstone


LTG

The Rasp (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Left Wall (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Vector (E2 5c)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (VD) Solo


BHAG

The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
The American Direct (ED1)
Dalriada (E7 6b)

Something on El Capitan.


biscuit - on 05 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:

Cheers Guy.

My goal is simple - get strong! As i feared the desire to start trying again has reared its head. As my time is sporadic, with periods of lots of free time then none for a month or so, I'm not putting any time scales etc on it. It just stresses me when i can't get stuff done. But I have started tightening up my nutrition and having structure to sessions rather than just climbing.

The downside of maintaining my relaxed approach is i'm not keeping a diary and I find it hard to remember what I've done.

It turns out that I did better at the BUK comp than I thought and I flashed a V7 (genuine shock) and got another and flashed a V6 or 2. All good.

It was an essay writing week so nothing of note done until it was handed in on Friday. I celebrated by going to BUK. Nothing new done but picked a V7 to come back to. Messed about with FOC and campussing with Tyler prior to his trip.

Got back on my bike properly on Saturday. Some faff with punctures and tyres so a bit shorter than planned and in a totally different place. Turned out well though and got 32 miles in with some half decent hills.

This week is busy so going to fit in what I can. Depot WIBL and a return to BUK for the V7 and any comp problems I could manage are priority. Starting to do stuff at home (fingerboard, stretching and bodyweight stuff) as well.
Just Tintin - on 06 Dec 2017
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. I shall ask for New Alpinism for Christmas as I have decided to ski-tour Denali. Bit of a non-week. Need a holiday.

M - coaching. In the Year 10 Olympic climbing, the medals table was USA, Norway, Great Britain.
T- routes potter to 7a
W -rest
T - routes potter to 7a as warm up, campus
F - Climbing Unit - have sent my indoor edging shoes to be resoled so spent most of the session wondering where the edges were on my edgeless technology heelhook shoes...
S - irritating day looking for dry rock. Wanted to get on Mark's but had to settle for repeats of First Roof Middle (f6C) etc on the only dry bit of rock. Then over to trackside which was full of ICMC so then to Bad Landing where started to work Bad Lip (f7A) which isn't my kind of thing but could be convinced.
S - Gardoms still wet. Back to Bad Lip but a bit wetter and colder so didn't get very far. Have identified that I need to stretch my hamstrings if I want to continue with heelhook beta, then probably lose some weight and do some longer campus gaps in the gym if I want to get this problem.
Post edited at 13:26
TheFasting on 06 Dec 2017
In reply to AJM:
Yeah it's just an arbitrary number Will Gadd put on it once. In reality I'm just planning on being so secure on the ice I never worry about falling, and then experiment with leading. I've been 5 days on the ice so far, the last 3 without getting a huge pump and worrying about falling, I think I need at least 5-10 more.
Post edited at 16:36

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