UKC

With all due respect to the recent ethical dialogues on Lake District Conditions and the solo ascent of Kinder Downfall, here is a video of Czech dry tooling queen Lucy Hrozova on a route in Colorado.

youtube.com/watch?v=oJN4oRzHMcU&
https://wspinanie.pl/film/lucie-hrozova-na-saphira-m15-2/

Ethics enthusiasts will notice she manages to avoid all possible icefalls until the last moment when she moves from unfeasible rock moves to an abalakov on the icefall.

In reply to Pay Attention:

Ethics aside, that kind of climbing is entirely theoretical for the likes of me.

In reply to Pay Attention:

Thanks, good footage. A lot of the moves don't look that bad but there are some heinous ones like the drop down at 1:15 (that kind of move is very hard to hold because it really shock loads the weight bearing arm), a lot of the placements aren't great (doesn't look like they're all nicely drilled slots) and it's damn long!

In reply to Pay Attention:

That video mostly made me think "isn't metals technology amazing"

In reply to Pay Attention:

Where I come from - if it's warm enough for a t-shirt then it's not in. Obviously I'm not from the North-east like...

In reply to Removed User:
Aye, if it's not cold enough for me to wear my Buffalo, it's not in!

In reply to Pay Attention:

It's interesting how Vail is looking quite like a climbing wall with all those insitu QDs in the routes. This route seems to be a lip traverse that does it best to avoid ice climbing! Do you know if it starts up one of the lower pillars? I was blown away when I first saw the pictures of Jeff Lowe on Octopussy there, upside down moves, pegs for runners - but those crazy moves to get from one icicle to another, then back to screws to protect the upper bits. Different game really.

In reply to TobyA:

You've raised an interesting point there, about the climbing wall look.

vimeo.com/113217681

a video of Angelika Rainer on Kama Sutra (graded D13). To me the rock looks very like the sport bolted section at Malham. Maybe Malham in some years will be a dry tooling arena ....

In reply to Pay Attention:
It’s a bit steeper than Malham! Actually looks like a decent bit of rock, unlike the British tooling routes which are (rightly) consigned to grotty quarries. Of course tooling is kind of artificial, especially on drilled slots, but it’s good fun and great training, whether for Scottish winter climbing, ice climbing or international comps. Some people don’t see the point, fair enough. Each to their own...

In reply to Pay Attention:

That was very strange.

In reply to Pay Attention:

In days passed, that's what was known as a lady's 'excuse me...?'.

T.

In reply to Pursued by a bear:


I wouldn't know what you mean by that .... *honestly*!

In reply to Removed User:


If you have to wear more than a t-shirt, you're not working hard enough...