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Not trying to start a conversation or get advice, just looking to gauge what you guys are using for your glove systems for the sake of simplicity i will narrow it down into a few categories though if you have some weird system let me know.
1. Un-insulated glove (work glove, golf glove, etc)
2. lightly insulated glove (light fleece)
3. mildly insulated glove (light fleece on palm, heavier insulation on the back of hand)
4. heavily insulated glove (Heavier insulation all round)
5. Pile mitt
6. Insulated mitt (down or synthetic)
Quick after thought, where do you tend to blow out your gloves? finger tips, back of hand, knuckles or palm?
Post edited at 15:11
3
In reply to keepguessing:
I use thin silk liner gloves (worn all the time). Over that i use lightly insulated leather faced gloves for actual climbing. At belays these come off and i swap for some reasonably well insulated mitts on (stored against chest to keep warm).
Fingertips always go first.
I use thin silk liner gloves (worn all the time). Over that i use lightly insulated leather faced gloves for actual climbing. At belays these come off and i swap for some reasonably well insulated mitts on (stored against chest to keep warm).
Fingertips always go first.
3
In reply to keepguessing:
That's a lot of gloves!
I use Meraklon magic gloves for inners
https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=1470 for when it's not too cold/ walking in
Something like this https://www.outdoorresearch.com/us/en/mens/mens-gloves/mens-arete-gloves/p/... for climbing (Like this, but with gel protection for knuckles).
That's a lot of gloves!
I use Meraklon magic gloves for inners
https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=1470 for when it's not too cold/ walking in
Something like this https://www.outdoorresearch.com/us/en/mens/mens-gloves/mens-arete-gloves/p/... for climbing (Like this, but with gel protection for knuckles).
In reply to keepguessing:
1, 2, 3, 5 and 6 plus a few other categories you haven't mentioned. Obviously not all at once but quite often a selection with me, i.e. no one goes climbing with one pair of liner gloves but they may well have them for the walk in.
Most people I know have tons of different gloves they wear depending on conditions and what kind of route they're doing, I'm not sure how accurate your results will be asking for what gloves people use if you expect a single choice. you might find you get more meaningful answers if you state what you're looking to find out.
Fingers
1, 2, 3, 5 and 6 plus a few other categories you haven't mentioned. Obviously not all at once but quite often a selection with me, i.e. no one goes climbing with one pair of liner gloves but they may well have them for the walk in.
Most people I know have tons of different gloves they wear depending on conditions and what kind of route they're doing, I'm not sure how accurate your results will be asking for what gloves people use if you expect a single choice. you might find you get more meaningful answers if you state what you're looking to find out.
Fingers
In reply to keepguessing:
depending on conditions but;
water proofed work gloves, liner gloves or cheap stretchy gloves for the walk in/out and lunch breaks.
Sealskinz Ultra grip gloves for scrambling
or Sealskinz Dragon eye gloves , for Ice/snow gully, sometimes with an additional shell mitten.
fingers get blown but mainly it is the glove troll, who steals my right hand gloves...
depending on conditions but;
water proofed work gloves, liner gloves or cheap stretchy gloves for the walk in/out and lunch breaks.
Sealskinz Ultra grip gloves for scrambling
or Sealskinz Dragon eye gloves , for Ice/snow gully, sometimes with an additional shell mitten.
fingers get blown but mainly it is the glove troll, who steals my right hand gloves...
2
3
In reply to keepguessing:
Climbing: a warm, goretex gauntlet glove. I like a bit of knuckle protection personally. Some people on these forums seem to obsess about using the thinnest gloves possible, but personally I've never found handling screws and crabs a problem in whatever gauntlet glove provided they fit well and are not too baggy in the fingers (trad gear needs a bit more dexterity). They often just need a liner glove if a little baggy. Warmth has always been my priority. I've found a wrist strap to be important on gloves for steep ice as it's quite disconcerting to feel any glove slip. Less important for easier ice. Most (all) dedicated ice climbing gloves have a strap anyway.
My gloves always wear out along the side of the index finger first. It comes from belaying people up and abseiling. Worth trying to use a cheap second pair of gloves for these tasks if you can be disciplined enough to keep swapping (sometimes I can't be bothered on long routes where efficiency is important - I know I should make the effort). I use this cheap set of ski gloves (ca £15) for the approach as well in order to keep my actual climbing gloves dry. Sometimes I'm wading through deep snow or needing to use my hands to scramble over boulders. All depends on your budget obviously. I'm past caring about appearance or brand and just want stuff that functions for as cheap as possible.
Glove choice depends partly on how much leading you expect to do. I seem to lead a lot more than I second and so keep my hands warmer a lot easier as a consequence. Bringing people up on second doesn't allow me to cool down much. Standing around belaying partners on every crux for ages is a fast way to getting hot aches regularly, so if this is you then get a pair of warm gloves to belay. Obviously a belay jacket will help the arms stay warm as well.
Also depends on the location obviously. Somewhere like Rjukan the approaches are going to be ploughed by a gazillion climbers before you and approaches are short, so obviously the priorities are very different to say ice routes on Ben Nevis.
Climbing: a warm, goretex gauntlet glove. I like a bit of knuckle protection personally. Some people on these forums seem to obsess about using the thinnest gloves possible, but personally I've never found handling screws and crabs a problem in whatever gauntlet glove provided they fit well and are not too baggy in the fingers (trad gear needs a bit more dexterity). They often just need a liner glove if a little baggy. Warmth has always been my priority. I've found a wrist strap to be important on gloves for steep ice as it's quite disconcerting to feel any glove slip. Less important for easier ice. Most (all) dedicated ice climbing gloves have a strap anyway.
My gloves always wear out along the side of the index finger first. It comes from belaying people up and abseiling. Worth trying to use a cheap second pair of gloves for these tasks if you can be disciplined enough to keep swapping (sometimes I can't be bothered on long routes where efficiency is important - I know I should make the effort). I use this cheap set of ski gloves (ca £15) for the approach as well in order to keep my actual climbing gloves dry. Sometimes I'm wading through deep snow or needing to use my hands to scramble over boulders. All depends on your budget obviously. I'm past caring about appearance or brand and just want stuff that functions for as cheap as possible.
Glove choice depends partly on how much leading you expect to do. I seem to lead a lot more than I second and so keep my hands warmer a lot easier as a consequence. Bringing people up on second doesn't allow me to cool down much. Standing around belaying partners on every crux for ages is a fast way to getting hot aches regularly, so if this is you then get a pair of warm gloves to belay. Obviously a belay jacket will help the arms stay warm as well.
Also depends on the location obviously. Somewhere like Rjukan the approaches are going to be ploughed by a gazillion climbers before you and approaches are short, so obviously the priorities are very different to say ice routes on Ben Nevis.
1
In reply to keepguessing:
Climbing: a warm, goretex gauntlet glove. I like a bit of knuckle protection personally. Some people on these forums seem to obsess about using the thinnest gloves possible, but personally I've never found handling screws and crabs a problem in whatever gauntlet glove provided they fit well and are not too baggy in the fingers (trad gear needs a bit more dexterity). They often just need a liner glove if a little baggy. Warmth has always been my priority. I've found a wrist strap to be important on gloves for steep ice as it's quite disconcerting to feel any glove slip. Less important for easier ice. Most (all) dedicated ice climbing gloves have a strap anyway.
My gloves always wear out along the side of the index finger first. It comes from belaying people up and abseiling. Worth trying to use a cheap second pair of gloves for these tasks if you can be disciplined enough to keep swapping (sometimes I can't be bothered on long routes where efficiency is important - I know I should make the effort). I use this cheap set of ski gloves (ca £15) for the approach as well in order to keep my actual climbing gloves dry. Sometimes I'm wading through deep snow or needing to use my hands to scramble over boulders. All depends on your budget obviously. I'm past caring about appearance or brand and just want stuff that functions for as cheap as possible.
Glove choice depends partly on how much leading you expect to do. I seem to lead a lot more than I second and so keep my hands warmer a lot easier as a consequence. Bringing people up on second doesn't allow me to cool down much. Standing around belaying partners on every crux for ages is a fast way to getting hot aches regularly, so if this is you then get a pair of warm gloves to belay. Obviously a belay jacket will help the arms stay warm as well.
Also depends on the location obviously. Somewhere like Rjukan the approaches are going to be ploughed by a gazillion climbers before you and approaches are short, so obviously the priorities are very different to say ice routes on Ben Nevis.
Climbing: a warm, goretex gauntlet glove. I like a bit of knuckle protection personally. Some people on these forums seem to obsess about using the thinnest gloves possible, but personally I've never found handling screws and crabs a problem in whatever gauntlet glove provided they fit well and are not too baggy in the fingers (trad gear needs a bit more dexterity). They often just need a liner glove if a little baggy. Warmth has always been my priority. I've found a wrist strap to be important on gloves for steep ice as it's quite disconcerting to feel any glove slip. Less important for easier ice. Most (all) dedicated ice climbing gloves have a strap anyway.
My gloves always wear out along the side of the index finger first. It comes from belaying people up and abseiling. Worth trying to use a cheap second pair of gloves for these tasks if you can be disciplined enough to keep swapping (sometimes I can't be bothered on long routes where efficiency is important - I know I should make the effort). I use this cheap set of ski gloves (ca £15) for the approach as well in order to keep my actual climbing gloves dry. Sometimes I'm wading through deep snow or needing to use my hands to scramble over boulders. All depends on your budget obviously. I'm past caring about appearance or brand and just want stuff that functions for as cheap as possible.
Glove choice depends partly on how much leading you expect to do. I seem to lead a lot more than I second and so keep my hands warmer a lot easier as a consequence. Bringing people up on second doesn't allow me to cool down much. Standing around belaying partners on every crux for ages is a fast way to getting hot aches regularly, so if this is you then get a pair of warm gloves to belay. Obviously a belay jacket will help the arms stay warm as well.
Also depends on the location obviously. Somewhere like Rjukan the approaches are going to be ploughed by a gazillion climbers before you and approaches are short, so obviously the priorities are very different to say ice routes on Ben Nevis.
1
In reply to keepguessing:
My hands run quite cold. But whatever combo you choose mits for belaying is clearly king, you don’t need to shell out much either 30 quid should do it as they are so much warmer and since you are stopped still cheap water proof membrane is fine.
Personally for climbing the best I’ve owned are bd punishers. I tried all sorts of cheaper climbing gloves and my hands either got wet or cold or both. I don’t get soft shell gloves (non water proof) at all for climbing but hey each to our own.
My hands run quite cold. But whatever combo you choose mits for belaying is clearly king, you don’t need to shell out much either 30 quid should do it as they are so much warmer and since you are stopped still cheap water proof membrane is fine.
Personally for climbing the best I’ve owned are bd punishers. I tried all sorts of cheaper climbing gloves and my hands either got wet or cold or both. I don’t get soft shell gloves (non water proof) at all for climbing but hey each to our own.
1
In reply to keepguessing:
I use a 3 glove system
Thinnys > Fleece gloves > Goretex mitts
Not to keen on thick gloves, though I've never tried them, always carry 2 or 3 pairs of thinnys and swap them over when a pair get wet
I use a 3 glove system
Thinnys > Fleece gloves > Goretex mitts
Not to keen on thick gloves, though I've never tried them, always carry 2 or 3 pairs of thinnys and swap them over when a pair get wet
In reply to CurlyStevo:
I wouldn't choose to take them to Scotland, but I bought a pair of ME Super Alpine gloves in May and for summer alpinism I think they're the ideal glove. Right tool for the right job and all that...
> I don’t get soft shell gloves (non water proof) at all for climbing but hey each to our own.
I wouldn't choose to take them to Scotland, but I bought a pair of ME Super Alpine gloves in May and for summer alpinism I think they're the ideal glove. Right tool for the right job and all that...
In reply to keepguessing:
I have thin windproof gloves (extremeties Velo) for the walk in and racking up etc.
BD Punisher gloves for climbing. Warm but dextrous enough to sort gear.
A spare pair of leather palmed waterproof gloves in case.
In a dry bag emergency kit I have some warm waterproof softshell type gloves (very non technical but warm light and waterproof). Mostly for the walk out/emergency.
Normally I put the punishers on and they stay on all day no need to change. if weather is very bad I would take some mitts for belays as I have very cold hands.
I have thin windproof gloves (extremeties Velo) for the walk in and racking up etc.
BD Punisher gloves for climbing. Warm but dextrous enough to sort gear.
A spare pair of leather palmed waterproof gloves in case.
In a dry bag emergency kit I have some warm waterproof softshell type gloves (very non technical but warm light and waterproof). Mostly for the walk out/emergency.
Normally I put the punishers on and they stay on all day no need to change. if weather is very bad I would take some mitts for belays as I have very cold hands.
In reply to keepguessing:
During moderate weather conditions, I prefer using Gore Windstopper fleece liner in my Guide gloves .
During moderate weather conditions, I prefer using Gore Windstopper fleece liner in my Guide gloves .
In reply to keepguessing:
Walk in: Shell gauntlet with fleece liner.
Climbing dry ice/ mixed: Lightly insulated soft shell glove (with an extra pair inside jacket for when they inevitably get wet).
Climbing wet ice/ routes with lots of snow: As above but with shell liner on top.
Walk in: Shell gauntlet with fleece liner.
Climbing dry ice/ mixed: Lightly insulated soft shell glove (with an extra pair inside jacket for when they inevitably get wet).
Climbing wet ice/ routes with lots of snow: As above but with shell liner on top.
In reply to keepguessing:
As others have said, a mix with spares to change out. Thinnest for climbing and quite thin but large mitt types for belaying. Big enough to take a set of “ hot hands” with room to push then to one side while holding the ropes.
Guide plate std.
As others have said, a mix with spares to change out. Thinnest for climbing and quite thin but large mitt types for belaying. Big enough to take a set of “ hot hands” with room to push then to one side while holding the ropes.
Guide plate std.
In reply to keepguessing:
All, bar option 5... and them some.
It depends on how cold it is, how long it is... and what it is.
The harder (and shorter) the climb is, I favour dexterity so sometimes even in rather cold conditions I might use completely uninsulated gloves (BD Torque, thin mechanics gloves, golf gloves). Then I do carry a few pairs, thick belay mitten (either shelled or cheapo pile&leather work mitts), plus perhaps a lightly insulated ones (approach, racking and generic fiddling around).
On easier terran, warmer is better.
All, bar option 5... and them some.
It depends on how cold it is, how long it is... and what it is.
The harder (and shorter) the climb is, I favour dexterity so sometimes even in rather cold conditions I might use completely uninsulated gloves (BD Torque, thin mechanics gloves, golf gloves). Then I do carry a few pairs, thick belay mitten (either shelled or cheapo pile&leather work mitts), plus perhaps a lightly insulated ones (approach, racking and generic fiddling around).
On easier terran, warmer is better.
In reply to keepguessing:
Whatever ones fit the best means.
I use ME thin gloves for climbing and change as the day goes.
Whatever ones fit the best means.
I use ME thin gloves for climbing and change as the day goes.
In reply to keepguessing:
I use mildly insulated to climb in (BD Punisher type) and heavily insulated mitt (BD Mercury mitt) to belay in. I normally carry three pairs of gloves and wear one pair on the walk in. I used to go with a cheap mitt but picking up a cheap pair of Mercury Mitts was a revelation. I might get a cheapo pair of mitt to second in as I always get the cold aches after belaying and damp gloves seem to make it worse. I also used these but found there was not enough breath-ability; http://www.safetygloves.co.uk/skytec-argon-thermal-gloves.html
I use mildly insulated to climb in (BD Punisher type) and heavily insulated mitt (BD Mercury mitt) to belay in. I normally carry three pairs of gloves and wear one pair on the walk in. I used to go with a cheap mitt but picking up a cheap pair of Mercury Mitts was a revelation. I might get a cheapo pair of mitt to second in as I always get the cold aches after belaying and damp gloves seem to make it worse. I also used these but found there was not enough breath-ability; http://www.safetygloves.co.uk/skytec-argon-thermal-gloves.html
In reply to ColdWill:
I tried the Skytechs at a few places including Scotland and coign and didn’t like them - water could get in the back climbing ice and they ran too cold for me other times. Gave a pair to a friend and he also found them too cold. (Even with mitts belaying)
I tried the Skytechs at a few places including Scotland and coign and didn’t like them - water could get in the back climbing ice and they ran too cold for me other times. Gave a pair to a friend and he also found them too cold. (Even with mitts belaying)
In reply to CurlyStevo:
How insulated would you say they are, like a light fleece or a bit warmer? Clearly not waterproof but strictly speaking of warmth.
How insulated would you say they are, like a light fleece or a bit warmer? Clearly not waterproof but strictly speaking of warmth.
In reply to tehmarks:
It's what I use primarily in Scotland.
> I wouldn't choose to take them to Scotland, but I bought a pair of ME Super Alpine gloves in May and for summer alpinism I think they're the ideal glove. Right tool for the right job and all that...
It's what I use primarily in Scotland.
2
In reply to planetmarshall:
I wouldn't like to use them where there's a good chance of them getting wet - but then again, I've never used them where there's a good chance of getting them wet to know either way! That and they're not warm enough for me for being out in the hills in winter.
I wouldn't like to use them where there's a good chance of them getting wet - but then again, I've never used them where there's a good chance of getting them wet to know either way! That and they're not warm enough for me for being out in the hills in winter.
Post edited at 21:02
In reply to CurlyStevo:
They insulate well when dry but quickly get wet from rain/snow/sweat. However, they are hands down (boom boom) the most dextrous gloves I've ever used. I sometimes carry a pair just to use on one hard pitch, they wet out in one pitch and I use something else for subsequent pitches. They're great for handling gear, gripping axes and really seem to stick to rock. Quite specialized but perform superbly in that niche.
> Skytechs
They insulate well when dry but quickly get wet from rain/snow/sweat. However, they are hands down (boom boom) the most dextrous gloves I've ever used. I sometimes carry a pair just to use on one hard pitch, they wet out in one pitch and I use something else for subsequent pitches. They're great for handling gear, gripping axes and really seem to stick to rock. Quite specialized but perform superbly in that niche.
Post edited at 21:10
In reply to keepguessing:
Something with hardly any insuation but great dexterity (I have BD Dry tooling gloves and some leather based Marmot ones which seem virtually irreplaceable) worn inside shell gloves (I have battered Marmot and Mountain Hardwear ones which now seem seem irreplaceable). The shell gloves are removed when my hands have warmed up enough on a pitch. This system works brilliantly for me but has the obvious disadvantage that the gloves are all but unobtainable (if anyone has any suggestions........ ). And of course warm belay mitts (I use the Montane pile/pertex ones with nothing else under them (which seem almost miraculaously effective) while my climbing gloves warm up under several of my clothing layers.
Something with hardly any insuation but great dexterity (I have BD Dry tooling gloves and some leather based Marmot ones which seem virtually irreplaceable) worn inside shell gloves (I have battered Marmot and Mountain Hardwear ones which now seem seem irreplaceable). The shell gloves are removed when my hands have warmed up enough on a pitch. This system works brilliantly for me but has the obvious disadvantage that the gloves are all but unobtainable (if anyone has any suggestions........ ). And of course warm belay mitts (I use the Montane pile/pertex ones with nothing else under them (which seem almost miraculaously effective) while my climbing gloves warm up under several of my clothing layers.
In reply to Robert Durran:
How would you feel about a work style glove that maintains the dexterity, is significantly warmer but still lets water in? Think buffalo for your hands.
How would you feel about a work style glove that maintains the dexterity, is significantly warmer but still lets water in? Think buffalo for your hands.
Post edited at 22:39
In reply to Robert Durran:
I think I have suggested these previously.
http://www.terra-nova.co.uk/clothing-accessories/all-gloves-mitts/tuff-bags...
and these might also fit the bill
https://www.ultralightoutdoorgear.co.uk/equipment-c3/socks-gloves-mitts-hat...
> ...This system works brilliantly for me but has the obvious disadvantage that the gloves are all but unobtainable (if anyone has any suggestions........ ).
I think I have suggested these previously.
http://www.terra-nova.co.uk/clothing-accessories/all-gloves-mitts/tuff-bags...
and these might also fit the bill
https://www.ultralightoutdoorgear.co.uk/equipment-c3/socks-gloves-mitts-hat...
In reply to planetmarshall:
In reply to teh_mark:
>> I wouldn't choose to take them to Scotland, but I bought a pair of ME Super Alpine gloves in May and for summer alpinism I think they're the ideal glove. Right tool for the right job and all that...
>It's what I use primarily in Scotland.
Me too. Brilliant gloves with excellent fit (for me) and dexterity along with just enough insulation (for me) most of the time.
(Edit to add in the quote - my post didn't make much sense with out it)
In reply to teh_mark:
>> I wouldn't choose to take them to Scotland, but I bought a pair of ME Super Alpine gloves in May and for summer alpinism I think they're the ideal glove. Right tool for the right job and all that...
>It's what I use primarily in Scotland.
Me too. Brilliant gloves with excellent fit (for me) and dexterity along with just enough insulation (for me) most of the time.
(Edit to add in the quote - my post didn't make much sense with out it)
Post edited at 06:26
In reply to HeMa:
Thanks, but it's shell gloves, not mitts that I'm after (and not without a thin lining that just makes them hard to put on when wet and which results in the gloves falling apart if you cut them out!)
> I think I have suggested these previously...........
Thanks, but it's shell gloves, not mitts that I'm after (and not without a thin lining that just makes them hard to put on when wet and which results in the gloves falling apart if you cut them out!)
In reply to Robert Durran:
which sort of rings a bell... meaning why you didn't like them the last time...
> Thanks, but it's shell gloves, not mitts that I'm after...
which sort of rings a bell... meaning why you didn't like them the last time...
In reply to keepguessing:
For sunny alpinism with almost constant movement Polartec liners if anything.
Yellow Chamonix "binmen" gloves on their own for pretty much everything else (cold winter walking, ice climbing, cold alpine routes with early starts.).
If going high, camping in winter, very cold then a pair of heavy german army mitts over the top of everything.
For sunny alpinism with almost constant movement Polartec liners if anything.
Yellow Chamonix "binmen" gloves on their own for pretty much everything else (cold winter walking, ice climbing, cold alpine routes with early starts.).
If going high, camping in winter, very cold then a pair of heavy german army mitts over the top of everything.
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