UKC

Hi

I am looking to do my first expedition climb next year and am checking out the different options right now. So I am fairly experienced in "normal" mountaineering and am looking for a 6000er or so that is a bit more technical than the classical tourist climbs (like Kilimanjaro, Mera Peak, Island Peak etc.). Anybody know any good options? Would prefer if it were in Asia rather than south America by the way...

Thanks for your help!

In reply to asdf123:

How are you planning to go? Independently or with an organised trip? If the latter, you could do a lot worse than contacting Martin Moran, moran- Mountain.co.uk. COI, I have done several Scottish courses with him and two himalaya trips, one a well established 6300 peak, one an exploratory trip, climbing a previously unclimbed 5900 peak. Booth were challenging and successful, my only previous experience out side UK being Kilimanjaro.

In reply to asdf123:

I was planning to go with an organization. I checke out the site your linked, but it seems the dates of the two expeditions he is offering are a bit unconvenient... However I do like the Idea of climbing an unclimbed peak Any other suggestions?

In reply to asdf123:

I suggest that you look at Kyajo Ri. Jagged Globe and others do trips there. It has a technical summit day.

Good luck!

In reply to asdf123:
Take a look at Ama Dablam.

In reply to asdf123:

Would highly recommend Alpamayo in Peru (yes I know you said you'd prefer Asia). Loads of other technical peaks around there to go for as well, e.g. Quiteraju, Tocllaraju etc. so you could easily get 3-4 x 6,000m approx mountains done on a 3 week trip.

In reply to CliffPowys:

I went with adventure peaks and it was well worth doing

In reply to Jandwilson:

Kyago Ri does sound nice! Would love to hear about your experience. I had a look on the trip and the climb itself looks quite perfect, however I wonder if it isn't maybe a bit short, considering its only 5 days of actual climbing?

In reply to asdf123:

Cholatse will meet all your technical needs.
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://...

Kyajo Ri is 20 odd days of trekking up and down to acclimatise and 2 days of climbing.

In reply to Gone for good:

Yes I'm sure it would, however I am only a poor student and the cheapest offer I found was 7500$... I also checked out Ama Dablam, but same problem here. Life is tough.

In reply to asdf123:


Have a look at Kang Yatze in Ladakh, main summit is 6400m and I think the route is about AD in an average season. Most expensive part will be flights. If you're a student when money is scarce but time is plentiful you could easily arrange logistics in Leh if you have a few days to haggle with some of the local outfitters for a good price.

Haven't climbed it but trekked past it and have been doing a little research into a trip in the near future

Iain

In reply to asdf123:

Unfortunately the true technical peaks like AD tend to be more expensive on organised trips. Such is life.

You could try organising a trip with friends but a trip to AD or Cholatse takes a lot of effort. AD is difficult for an independent group as the camp sites are small and the commercial expeditions tend to dominate. Cholatse is seriously difficult and may not be a good choice for a first trip.

I have done KR and AD and they are both excellent trips with good climbing. Bear in mind that a lot of Himalayan climbing is not "climbing" but acclimatisation, getting over colds, waiting for good weather, etc. There is often a lot of sitting around! Fixed ropes are also used by virtually all commercial trips.

Given your needs, I think that Peru would be a much better bet. You can easily find partners in Huarez during the season and there are plenty of good peaks suitable to your requirements with little or no paperwork.

In reply to asdf123:
South America definitely sounds like the best bet. Would definitely recommend you head over to Huaraz (Peru) and there are looaads of great 6000m options from there (Tocllaraju, Ranrapalca, Chopicalqui, Artesonraju, Alpamayo etc). It is a very easy place to run an expedition and far cheaper and without the bureaucratic/logistical faff that you usually find in Asia.

In reply to asdf123:

In terms of technical climbing it was just the summit day...there was a fair bit of scrambling and one day moving over the glacier. It was a fairly reasonable price too all things considered

In reply to asdf123:
Well I've been having a look at south America for a bit, and it looks like there would be some great climbing there. However I think the "expedition" aspect of the trip would be missing a bit, seeing as most peaks there are climbed alpine style...

Maybe an easy 7000er like Braunste might be worth considering? Although not overly technical it seems to be a bit more challenging than the classical trekking peaks. Or is it too ambitious to go for a 7000er as a first expedition?

In reply to asdf123:

Baruntse is quite a nice, technically straightforward peak though I wouldn't call it easy, at least not physically. Base camp is around 5400m so you spend a long time over 5000m with doing several rotations for acclimatization and ferrying kit up the mountain (unless you do something like Mera Peak first and don't need extra time on Baruntse to acclimatize). Also if you don't want to spend too much money then it might be worth sticking to peaks under 7000m in Nepal since permit fees tend to increase for the higher peaks. But it would definitely give more of an expedition feel if that's what you're looking for. And the views are spectacular!

In reply to asdf123:

Well I found a (relatively) affordable offer for a trip there which i found quite interesting:

https://www.summitclimb.com/climb/baruntse/#itinerary
(See Baruntse-only trip)

What do you think? I think Baruntse would really be quite a spectacular trip from what I've heard about it. A lot of organizations seem to recommend previous 6000er experience for 7000ers though...

In reply to asdf123:
Ive got somewhat similar interests, although planning to doing it on our own. If you have some climbing exp. have a look at Kyajo Ri, Nirekha peak and Cholatse. If you are a cash strapped student maybe find some friends to do it with or at least use a local organisator instead of a western?

For our trip we might end up with Nirekha peak and Machermo peak (hopefully Snottys gully).