UKC

Molly Thompson-Smith (20) is celebrating her most successful year yet, culminating in a bronze medal in the final round of the IFSC Lead World Cup in Kranj, Slovenia last month and a World Ranking of 7th place in the series overall. Having excelled at junior level - with a European Youth Cup win in 2014 and multiple British titles - Molly has seemingly made the daunting transition to international senior level lead events with an ease that eludes many a seasoned youth competitor.

I spoke to Molly about her gap year, moving to Sheffield and swapping uni for the circuit board (for now at least) with the support of an exciting sports scholarship...

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In reply to UKC Articles:
Factoid for the specialists out there: aside from all the achievements outlined within Natalie's interview Molly has also deadhanged the 6mm Beastmaker edges for 59 seconds.

It's worth feeling one of these edges just to get an idea of how utterly awful it would be hanging off one for a single second, let alone a minute!! I suspect that even if I could, I wouldn't want or be able to simply because of the pain.

Still, I think that's what makes it all the more impressive!!

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

My big fat fingers can't even detect an edge that small...

In reply to UKC Articles:

Great article and al the best to Molly for the future

The ascent of Mecca resonates with me. I remember one of the the visiting French stars (JBT?) declaring it the hardest route in the country. Then I happened to be on the crag when Ed Morgan did an early redpoint. I'd never really been around anyone doing a hard redpoint before and the noise has stayed with me. To me it sort of defines hard climbing. So well done for doing that. There can't be many sports where the Male Peak performance becomes the Female Peak performance in under 25 years

In reply to John Clinch (Ampthill):


A sport route of 9b has now been climbed by a woman only about 10 years after that grade was first established by a man.

In reply to UKC Articles:

Great article: good questions and interesting and well written answers.

In regard of her outdoor aspirations it must be so difficult for climbers at that level. There simply aren't very many Meccas in the UK. But as she said there are at least a growing number of excellent indoor facilities available.

In reply to john arran:


Thanks seen that comparison made quite so clearly. But as I say it helps when things are nearer to home. I've never seen a "9". not that I've looked very hard........