UKC

Interested in becoming a British Mountain Guide

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JesseF 29 Dec 2017
Hi all, this is my first post and not sure its in the right section but anyway.

As said in the title I am interested in becoming a British mountain guide and looking at the best way to progress into it.
I'm currently 17 and still at school, but not really wanting to pursue an academic career (uni etc.) so looked into mountaineering etc. as its something I've always had a passion for. So I guess my question is that how would you suggest progressing into the scheme.
At the moment, I'm thinking of doing my CWA now (when I turn 18 in summer 2018) and then progressing through the schemes while working at a climbing gym or the like until I hopefully can get my MIA / MIC before the age of 21 when I can then join the BMG training scheme. Do you think this is a good path, or is MIC by age 21 too ambitious?
Sorry for the long post, and thanks in advance for any replies
rackandruin 29 Dec 2017
In reply to JesseF:
You might find Toms article interesting......
http://tomripleyclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2016/10/completing-british-mountain...

Good Luck with it (or whatever you end up doing
Post edited at 12:03
 jezb1 29 Dec 2017
In reply to JesseF:
Here’s a blog on my path to MIA, bit old now, might be of interest. http://www.jbmountainskills.co.uk/about/how-i-became-self-employed/

Main advice, climb a lot and gain a wealth of experience, that’s key. There’s far more to being a decent guide / instructor / coach but if you’re not super psyched yourself, forget it.

Start ticking off CWA / CWI, SPA / RCI, ML and the coaching awards, and use them lots for work.

MIA or MIC will be a tall order by 21, doable though.
Post edited at 13:59
 planetmarshall 29 Dec 2017
In reply to JesseF:

> Do you think this is a good path, or is MIC by age 21 too ambitious?

Nothing wrong with a bit of ambition, but pretty sure that would make you the youngest ever MIC (I believe Guy Steven holds that record?)
 JIMBO 29 Dec 2017
In reply to JesseF:

> At the moment, I'm thinking of doing my CWA now (when I turn 18 in summer 2018) and then progressing through the schemes while working at a climbing gym...

Move to the mountains and go mountaineering rather than play indoors...
 Climber_Bill 29 Dec 2017
In reply to JesseF:

Agree with Jimbo.

Also get some basic qualifications whilst working at your local wall and then apply to get on one of the apprenticeship / trainee schemes at Plas y Brenin or Glenmore Lodge when you are 18.

You will need to demonstrate that you are dedicated, so get out into the hills now, don't wait until you have moved to the mountains.

Good luck.

TJB.
1
 Misha 29 Dec 2017
In reply to JesseF:
Speaking purely from personal experience as someone who is looking to apply next May -

I assume you’ve seen the list of pre-requisites on the BMG website. For me the main challenge has been the breadth of the experience required (rather than the technical standard as such) - British multipitch trad, Scottish winter, Alpine including some big mixed routes and ski touring. It might not seem like much in paper but, when you consider the need for the right partners, weather and conditions, it’s quite a lot to get through. It’s hard but not impossible to get everything done within a handful of years, not least because you need to spend a fair bit of time in the Alps in spring and summer.

You also need money to finance the scheme - both to pay for the courses and assessments and to pay for your living and travelling costs while you’re preparing for the assessments (when you won’t really have time to work). So it’s a good idea to have some savings behind you before starting.

From the people I know who are on the scheme or looking to apply, some go via the MIA/MIC route, some do rope access work, some do transit driving in Cham, some do kitchen fitting or similar trades and some have an ‘office’ job. I’ve had an office job as a tax adviser for the past 15 years. Partly that’s because I didn’t even consider guiding until I’d been climbing for a few years and partly it’s because I was happy to take my time getting the required experience (going beyond the minimum requirements in some areas to make sure my experience was solid) while earning a decent wage which allowed me to save some money. It also means I have another profession to fall back on in case I don’t get through the scheme for some reason or get injured. Of course the main disadvantage of this route is it doesn’t give you as much free time for climbing and it will take longer to work through the requirements but at least you’ll be super keen to get out climbing at weekends and on holidays!

It’s a great aim to have, just don’t be too fixated on the timescale at this early stage. Above all, you’ve got to love climbing and skiing in their various forms.

 Andy Say 30 Dec 2017
In reply to JesseF:

> is MIC by age 21 too ambitious?

Just a tad - unless of course you already have so much experience that you don't need to gain any more to meet the entry requirements?



 Andy Say 30 Dec 2017
In reply to jezb1:
> MIA or MIC will be a tall order by 21, doable though.

Hi Jez, I did ML assessment in October after exemption from training. WML training in Feb next year; WML assessment in April same year. MIA training that August and MIA assessment October the next year. So zero to MIA is 'possible' in 2 years but you've got to have WML before MIC training and I don't know anyone who's done MIC Training and Assessment in the same year (!). So I'd guess three years would be the quickest likely time frame. BUT I had been climbing / mountaineering for 30 years before I started. As we both know - its the experience that is the vital thing not how fast you can cram t he courses in.
Post edited at 09:24
 summo 30 Dec 2017
In reply to JesseF:

All good advice above. Get outdoors, join a club, gain reliable competent climbing partners Plus get skiing, an oft neglected skill by UK aspirants.
 Misha 30 Dec 2017
In reply to summo:
Yes, the importance of having a few solid partners is not to be underestimated, especially when it comes to big Alpine routes. It can take years to get to know the right people, depending on your climbing circle. There aren’t that many British climbers who are into (relatively) serious Alpine climbing and you need to get to know people before committing to anything serious - you can’t just arrange to do the Walker Spur over a couple of emails. Easier to find people for trad, winter and touring but even then you need a few solid partners for multipitch E grades and bigger Scottish routes.

Skiing - the people I know who live in Cham or have spent a winter season or more out there are pretty damn good (hardly surprising). The issue with living in Cham is it’s then hard to get the British trad and especially Scottish winter routes done. Whereas if you live in the UK, it’s hard to get the Alpine stuff done withint a few years without taking months off work... In some ways, this is the crux at the heart of the prerequisites, for me anyway.

I believe in not rushing these things too much. Once the goal (completed logbook) is in sight, you will get more focused on specific things where more experience is needed (a couple more ski tours, a few more Alpine mixed routes, a few more Scottish winter routes in less well travelled areas or whatever it might be - everyone’s experience will be different). Until then, by all means keep an eye on the prerequisites as guidelines but at the end of the day just go climbing and skiing, as often as you can and in as many different areas as possible.

It’s a good idea to download the application form at an early stage and start filling it in as you go along. That way you will clearly see where the gaps are and it will save you a lot of time filling it in retrospectively afterwards. Imagine filling in all the details for literally hundreds of routes and dozens of ski touring days in a few years’ time! I already had a list of most stuff in excel for my own records, plus my UKC logbook, but it wasn’t in the right format and didn’t have all the required details, so even from that useful base it took hours to get it into the required shape when I sat down to do it about a year ago. Regularly adding new stuff to the form since then has been pretty easy.

Above all, whatever you choose to climb or ski, make sure you are doing it because you want to do it for yourself, not just to get a particular tick in the logbook (of course some of it will be type 2 fun which you might not enjoy at the time but you’ve got to want to experience that as well). At least this has been my ‘guiding’ principle on this journey.
 summo 30 Dec 2017
In reply to Misha:

I think you've got a key point. Most or all of the prerequisites should be met as a natural consequence of doing what you enjoy.

The only thing I'd add is whilst you can meet the overseas goals in the alps, having a trip or two outside Europe will broaden experience, but this isn't essential and can be costly, on what is already an expensive journey through the schemes.
 jezb1 30 Dec 2017
In reply to JesseF:

I’ll just add one more bit.

Why do you want to be a Guide or MI? Great climbers don’t always make great guides. What appeals to you about it?

I’ve seen guides doing anything from big routes in the Alps to running taster sessions on outcrops in Wales. The potential work is massively varied from pure guiding to coaching, running ML or SPA courses, even some seismic work, or mostly sitting in an office.

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