UKC

I'm planning a trip to Sardinia in September, with a group of people who mostly climb around VS/HVS trad and 6a/6b sport. We are mostly looking to do multi-pitch sport routes, probably around the Ogliastra area.

I went there a few years ago, so I have dug out my copy of Pietra di Luna and already have a few objectives in mind - (various routes at Surtana, including The Sound of Silence; perhaps one of the easy routes at Jurassic Park; the big slabs at Sa Forada 'e sa Ida).

Surtana

Cala Goloritzé

Does anyone have any other suggestions?

I would also like to have a go at the Aguglia Goloritze, as it looks spectacular and we didn't do it last time I was there - but I seem to remember reading somewhere that the easiest route, Easy Gymnopaedia, has been upgraded to 6c due to some holds breaking off - is anyone able to confirm this? I don't know if attempting to onsight 6c would be the best idea given the grades we are currently climbing.

Thanks!

Leo

There is some lovely multi pitch in that grade range in that area.

I recommend Marinaio di Foresta (6a+), great route on a really cool sea pinnacle and a very short walk in.

Lughe 'e Vida Mia (6a) In the Golo Su Gorrupu gorge is a great adventure, and worth it for the approach through the gorge. I think you can approach from either side. 

Compagni di Viaggio (6a+) was also very good (In the same area as Surtana) But the route was only partially bolted so I recommend taking a trad rack too.

If you end up in the South East of Sardinia there are also some fantastic multi pitch at  Masua

You mean south west......

To the OP - the Goloritze needle has recently had a tidy up/rebolt and may now be easier. Do a search on here as here is where I probably found the info.

Have a good look for new multipitch routes online as there's very little at 6a in the guides.  I found topos for routes at masua and above the big cave at domusnovas? Check my logbook for the inland ones. The most recent P di L guide has no mutipitch in it I believe.

Yes sorry I meant South West.

The trad and multi pitch in Sardinia are in a separate guidebook.