UKC

ARTICLE: Smart Casual - Discussions on Performance from Everyday to Elite

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 UKC Articles 22 Jan 2018
The science of freedom? Modern testing methods in climbing fitness., 4 kbCan we all keep cranking hard, even when life seems determined to slow us down? Inigo Atkin talks to Tom Randall and others as he looks at varying approaches to consistency in climbing and training in professional climbers, weekend warriors and everyday heroes...

Read more
1
 james mann 22 Jan 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

Chris Preston not Charlie made the fa of suicide wall after top rope practice. 

 

James

 Wft 23 Jan 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

I enjoyed this article, thanks. 

 LeeWood 23 Jan 2018
In reply to UKC Articles:

Has anyone trained on a lattice board - why is it advantageous ? I would have expected that being so regular - it would not help with real rock ...

On the same theme I question the usefulness of comparison with rowing - which requires machine like precision; not that we don't need precision - but every move is different on real rock.

Post edited at 19:26
 Stig 23 Jan 2018
In reply to LeeWood:

It is precisely its regularity that makes it advantageous. Training for climbing has been in the dark ages - espeically compared to running or cycling, or similar endurance sports.

Training for running is much easier: it is well known what works, and is much easier to measure and record the main variables - that is, volume and pace.

In comparison it is almost impossible to do the same with climbing. Even training on a bouldering wall which is at least a fairly controlled medium, it is hard if not impossible to measure and record the activity. Made even worse by the fact that walls insist on resetting the problems every few weeks. 

So the advantage of something like the lattice is you can use it to measure progress in training the main energy systems, aerobic and anaerobic (I'm simplifying here). Ultimately if you can hang on and endure for ever you can climb almost any long endurance route.

Of course, you are right that climbing is very complex activity in terms of moves and timing (not to mention mental aspects etc), so you have to train all those other angles by doing real climbing. Sort of like in running where ideally you run offroad and do XC for strength - though of course running is a much simpler activity.

ps. rowing doesn't just need precision. You have to work well as a team if you're in a crew, and there's all the mental aspects of racing.

In reply to LeeWood:

> On the same theme I question the usefulness of comparison with rowing - which requires machine like precision; not that we don't need precision - but every move is different on real rock.

 Not when you redpoint it isn’t.  

 Water, like rock has endless types of surface to play on. Rowing is one example of a water sport, sport climbing is one example of rock climbing.

In reply to Stig:

>It is precisely its regularity that makes it advantageous.

 You make a valid comparison between rowing and climbing, but you then put down another sport with your own over simplification.

 > though of course running is a much simpler activity.

 There are endless types of surface to run on and many different types of running. The energy systems and movement economy involved are the same in running, climbing or rowing.

 Simplification helps us understand complexity, but exploiting the minute differences enables high achievement.

 Lord_ash2000 24 Jan 2018
In reply to LeeWood:

It's about building up the fitness and to some degree strength. There will of course still be the more subtle skill elements of climbing on rock to deal with but that just comes with the experience of operating on rock. If you're strong and can hold on for a very long time then recover on larger holds it's going to be a huge advantage to you on route. 

 Niall Grimes 25 Jan 2018

Nice read, thanks!

 

 

 Niblet 28 Jan 2018

How come no one has whined about Tom Randall climbing what appears to be a bolted crack yet?


New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...