UKC

Just a musing - how safe is it to still climb here. I assume the range is still available to mass expeditions as per the Himalaya but given its location and the area travelled to get there is this still an attractive option for people?

Not planning on anything myself but just wondering (been reading Doug Scott's OGRE adventures!!)

Last year I travelled from Islamabad up through the Swat Valley, along the Afghanistan border and over the Lowari Pass (not through the new tunnel), through Chitral and into the Kalash valleys, over the Shandoor Pass to Gilgit and Karimabad and then down to Skardu and on to Shigar, Khaplu and the Hushe Valley. Four weeks in all, felt safe the whole time. Thanks to surprisingly good weather, I even avoided the return down the KKH for a change - I've done it 3 times before and I think I've done my time.

There are a few places it's unwise to wander around as a foreigner, for example Chilas has a bit of a reputation, but most places are really friendly. I think tourism is gradually picking up again - well worth a visit! 

We recently drove through Pakistan from the Khunjarab Pass (border with China) through to Lahore and India. We spent 3 weeks trekking / climbing under the Hunza Valley and felt perfectly safe the whole time.

I'm actually organising a trip back there later this year (http://remote-corner.com/trek-mingli-sar-pakistan/ - apologies for the shameless self-promotion) and for that we're flying into Gilgit to avoid the Karakoram Highway between there and Islamabad which, despite seeming fine to us as we drove through, is considered high risk by the Foreign Office.

Was there in the summer climbing above Shimshal.  The tight security was some evidence that there had been at least some past security problems on the kkh and airport.  In towns we often encountered ISI agents (who even introduced themselves on occasion) so we presumed we were frequently followed for our own protection.  With this in mind you should probably mind what you say at all times (look up the blasphemy laws).  Almost everyone we encountered was very friendly and we never felt unsafe, I look forward to going again.

Having had some super trips trekking in the Karakoram in the years before Pakistan kind of went into meltdown, this thread is really great to read. It's an amazing part of the world and it would be such a shame - both for us and the people who live there - if mountain tourism was shut down forever.

Totally agree. Travelled through there in '94 and the people were unbelievably hospitable in most places. If the area is recovering from the worst of the instability it has experienced in recent times that is great news. 

Do you have any pics of your trip that you'd be willing to share? I went to Shimshal in '98, just getting there was a wild walk as there was no road, it was the second year they had electricity and I was proudly shown the village's only TV. What's it like now?

Edit: if this were Supertopo, there'd be a "Show us your Karakoram pics!" thread.

In reply to seankenny:

yes our expedition report and presentation can be read here, if there is something specific you want to see we have lots more photos so just ask:

https://www.imperial.ac.uk/people/james.lawson08/document/2582/Boesam%20Pas...

https://www.imperial.ac.uk/people/james.lawson08/document/2586/Boesam%20Pas...

When we went to Shimshal there were a lot of changes going on.  The old hydro plant and shoddy wiring was getting replaced with a new 200 kVA redundant generator hydro system with proper pylons.  The hydro plant runs off the main river about 2hrs walk down the road from Shimshal so should run all the time.  People seemed quite excited to get things like washing machines that would be facilitated by the increased electrical capacity.  There were a few TVs around and a lot of mobile phones.

 There is a modern school in Shimshal with its own 18 kW solar array and at the same site a mobile phone mast that works using the army radio network I think.  To use a mobile phone in Shimshal you need an SCOM sim that is only available to locals.  There is internet access from the school by satellite and on the mobile phone network.   There are also a few mosques and a health centre that have been built to a very high standard.  In terms of agriculture they are planting multiple crops together I think as an alternative to crop rotation and systematically bringing barren land into cultivation using walls then seabuck thorn plants.  The village is quite big and expanding towards the main road, there are a few shops where you can buy biscuits and mountain dew.

Overall although there are problems like access to healthcare they seem to be doing very well and attracting a lot of investment.  Certainly once the new hydro plant is supplying reliable electricity the quality of life there will be better than many places in Hunza.

Thanks for the update and pics, looks like you had a fun trip.

When I went the road was still a dream/work in progress, so we did a short day to a hut then a very long day to the village itself. The paths were scratty little things winding their way over huge cliffs, any slip or misstep would have resulted in a two thousand foot tumble down scree and over crags all the way to the river below. So was obviously quite impressed to meet a Shimshali carrying a filing cabinet.

A few years later I went up to Snow Lake on the Biafo-Hispar travers. I know Steve Razetti and co have taken one of the other glaciers from Snow Lake that eventually takes you down to Shimshal - the Khurdopin I think? Would be another amazing trip to do up there.

There may be some issues getting down the Khurdopin.  We tried to cross it near the nose but it has slid forward a lot and is all jumbled up and crevased at least as far as we could see.  It may be better further up.  The road takes about 4hrs from the highway, the paths are still there and look traumatising!