UKC

Hi everyone,

I saw these Simond quickdraws and I thought they were great value. 

https://www.simond.com/rocky-quickdraw-11-cm-id_8058344

I'm planning on using them for sport climbing aswell as alpine climbing/mountaineering (f.e. Piz Palu and Biancograt). I know people prefer the wiregate quickdraws for the alpine but is it really necessary? The Simond wiregate quickdraws are more expensive and I was wondering if its worth the extra cash. (difference is like 4 euro's but when you buy 10 then that's quite already 40).

Thanks, 

Jelle

Generally speaking, sport climbers prefer plain gate or bent gate quickdraws, and wiregates are preferred for trad. Sport draws also tend to be shorter, with fat slings like those ones. In mountain cragging and alpine use, you will sometimes want to use a shoulder-length sling (60cm) and a couple of carabiners to make a longer extension called an 'alpine runner', but again, having a few shorter quickdraws around can be helpful too.

The weight adds up a bit here, especially if you're racking 10, but there's no real wrong answer, and as long as you're happy with the weight, you'll be able to make do with anything more or less. The ones you've linked to are mostly for sport climbing, but they will last ages and are robust enough to survive encounters with Scottish winters etc. It's possible to over-think these things, and if you've found a good deal for your first set, I'd go for it.

It's possible to over-think these things, and if you've found a good deal for your first set, I'd go for it.

A very good answer.

I'm a bit bemused by the need to have a full set of 20 trad (wiregate draws) and another full set for sport. I do understand the difference for some climbers but unless you're very rich, have lots of storage or spend a lot of time working routes and grabbing draws/falling off then it seems quite sensible to buy a mixture or buy the type you like best.

Generally speaking sport draws are slightly heavier, more robust and shorter. Trad draws are longer and lighter. 

With that being said there's no reason you can't use one for the other, providing the bolts haven't cut any sharp edges on your biners and you extend placements where neccesary. Just regularly check them for gouges and take a few extra slings. As with most gear related stuff, it often can work for a wider range of uses (ie two walking axes for higher grade climbs, ski jackets for keeping warm whilst bouldering) it's just people like making excuses to buy shiny new gear. 

I prefer wiregates for everything, but , but on sport climbing (particularly when it gets steep) a clean nose is a godsend when cleaning the route. however, don't think you'll get clean nose wiregates for anything like that price - bargain. 

Have fun on the Palu and Biancongrat. Great area to climb. Can't remember using any short ODs on either so you wouldn't need many in any event. Take slings instead.

Thanks for all the replies. 

I think I'll pick these up then as they're a really good deal and nothing is wrong with them. 

Thanks for the useful advice! 

Maybe I'll post here again when I've taken them on a rockclimbing trip  

Cheers,

Jelle