UKC

Hi guys, I've been climbing for about 3 years now and I have recently bought a pair of Five Ten Hiangles (Leather). They have worn out after a few months of climbing in them which sucks so I'm sending them back but I was wondering whether anybody has had similar quality issues with the synthetic versions? I love the performance of the shoe because I'm quite a heavy climber (around 95kg) but I just wouldn't trust the quality on the leather shoes again. 

 

Also, if anyone has any suggestions for a performance bouldering/sport climbing shoe that has good edging and sticky rubber I'm all ears! I've been looking at the tenaya tarifa's and the evolv nexxo's but I'm unsure of what to try. Mainly climb on grit and sandstone. 

 

Apologise for the massive message. 

Cheers, 

 

Luke. 

In reply to Sp00ked27:

Hi Spooked.

I am the same weight as you, Scarpa and La Sportiva brands seem to last the longest. 5.10 quality control seems variable..

Check out the Scarpa Instict VS, La Sportiva Miura VS or Solution they give a good balance between toe picking, hooking and robust construction. The Genius are great on grit but the thin rubber means they don’t stand up to hard indoor use.

In reply to Sp00ked27:

scarpa !! really well made shoes, and also very good at edging, instincts, vapour, boostic 

In reply to Sp00ked27:

How and where have they worn? Depending on the amount of use and how you climb, a few months could be reasonable.

In reply to Sp00ked27:

I've just about worn out my LaSportiva Solutions after about a year of use, bouldeing 3 times a week, almost every week. They normally last about 9 months for me at that rate but these just kept going. Can't complain about them really. 

How long have other boots you've had lasted? It's normal for them to last 6 - 9 months of regular use if your footwork is reasonable.

In reply to Sp00ked27:

Surprised by that, I’ve got a couple of pairs of HiAngles and think they’re brilliant and have lasted pretty too.

They do a synthetic version too that stretches less apparently.

In reply to Sp00ked27:

I have been using Scarpa Vapor V's for a couple of years now, the rubber lasts 3-6 months when climbing 2-4 times weekly indoors, but resoling has never been an issue, I never walk around in them, and I never climb in them when if the rubber is worn through to the structure beneath.

I guess if I had better footwork they would last longer, and I have thought about warming up in cheaper shoes, but I think the vast majority of their wear is when I am struggling or falling down a slab, I don't imagine they are taking enough wear on a warm up to be worth avoiding.

In reply to Lord_ash2000:

My miuras are still going after about 2 and a half years and my first pair are now being used by my mate after 3 years of me completely abusing them. The leather inbertween the toe rubber on top of the shoe has just disintergrated after 4 months and has left a big dirty hole there. And the toe rubber got a hole in after 2 months. Both on the right foot so I'm going to assume it's a defect as the left foot was perfect! Really considering getting solutions but my miuras wrecked my toes so I swore myself off everything Sportiva :') 

In reply to Sp00ked27:

Sportiva Otaki are a decent blend of sensitivity and stiffness. 

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