UKC

I'm thinking of setting up a group for a trip this time next year.

is there anyone with detail experience on how the rjukan icefalls have been this past week : brittle, soggy, etc as a reasonable indicator of likely conditions ?

thanks in advance.

I don't think you can reliably predict next year's conditions based on this year. It varies from year to year. This year it's been almost unrelentingly cold since November. Last year was arguably the worst winter on record with a number of sustained thaws. The season before that was pretty good, but the one before that was pretty bad.

All you need to know is on the Climb Rjukan FB page

https://www.facebook.com/groups/118510158161538/ 

thanks Kimberley.  That's a helpful guide for pragmatically planning a trip one year ahead.  

Interesting tale there from John Armstrong about hydro flushing on Vemorkbrufoss Vest.  Not a hazard I had considered significant in my previous 3 Rjukan trips!!

3?! Doesn't it get boring? 

Go for it, gather interest and would be partners etc....see where it’s at closer to the time. But yes count me in, good post

Nope.  Not at all.  The same ice climb can be quite different on successive days due to local weather.  I found that just this week in Sottoguda - on my 3rd visit this year.

However, if a lack of variety in climbing motivates you then try sport, bouldering or indoor .....

I think he just meant have you tried anywhere else for ice climbing in Norway? My impression is Rjukan has become a bit like Stanage - loved for the density of great climbs in one place, but travelling climbers might be blinded to the possibilities elsewhere. 

Thats a good point.  Outside Rjukan I've only visited Kong Vinter.  I've looked at other possibilities but the logistics, time & cost don't seem easily managed for a week, and a longer trip doesn't fit for most people.

I went for my first ice climbing trip last week. Went to Norway and not to Rjukan. Spent a week with 10 min drive and 10 min walk in to all the ice falls. All of them range from 20 meters in height up to 200 meters. Ok it was 2 flights but we managed to climb 6 days out of 7.

Only time we ever seen any other climbers all week was on the first weekend as there was an ice climbing festival on. The rest of the week we had it all to ourselves. Don't really want to tell people where it was as I want to go back next year and i liked the peace. I'm sure people with good googling skills could work it out tho 

Unless there was more than one ice climbing festival in Norway last weekend, and old mate was there! The routes looked great.

Now, you've got my attention!

{googlegooglegooglegoogle}

There's loads of places that I manage in a weekend for the same cost as Rjukan. A week is enough time to climb anywhere in the Southern half of Norway. The arctic part possible with an internal flight. Needs a bit more planning but there's enough information out there. If I'm honest though I'm quite happy that Rjukan is such a honeypot because it means other places remain quiet.

Was that my festival?

Was it near a place beggining with O.

If it was then it is an amazing place to climb

The routes were amazing. I might be be being a bit biased as it was my first time but I thought every route was quality 

It really is! Especially as we're in our best season since 2011. The other valleys are in absolutely incredible condition. We haven't had as much snow as other areas (just enough to keep it magic) but prevailing cold has meant that fickle routes are now relatively stable plus a bunch of stuff that hasn't formed since the last ice age...

I'll make the sweeping assumption that you were there with the guys from Gwent? Shame we didn't get a chance to catch up, but its great to hear you had a good time!

That is a very good assumption It was my first year over with them and by the sounds of it this was a very good year. We had good weather everyday.

Will you be running the festival again next year.