UKC

Hi all,

Is there another hill in Pakistan other than the 8000ers+Spantik that usually has teams fixing ropes on it?

Just a rookie climber who went on a introductory mountaineering trip with a group of Shimshali guides (Shams Alpine) and had a great time.  They wont touch Nanga Parbat though for reasons to do with the terrorist massacre 5 years ago.

Just want a place where I can do some extensive 'climbing'/jumaring on fixed ropes.  Even with the permit costs nanga parbat is a good deal for a guided climb compared to other mountains.  Obviously I have no aspirations whatsoever of summiting, ever. 

Don't think there's another hill with teams fixing ropes thats also reasonably quick to approach aside from Spantik, but Spantik doesnt appeal to me as its mostly very high altitude walking. 

Every other destination (eg, Trango Towers) looks extremely technical and are patronised by professional alpinists who dont need to 'prepare routes'...

 

In reply to iron_monkey:

No. No other hills (or mountains). 

You mean you are looking for somebody else to fix ropes for you so that you can just jug up them afterwards? That's called a guided trip. Otherwise if you want to climb fixed ropes then you need to fix the ropes yourself (and remove them afterwards). You can't just use somebody else's fixed ropes if that's what you're thinking. It's not a via ferrata. Try the 7000m peaks in Central Asia if you want ready prepared fixed ropes on routes at a cheap price. 

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Hi Big Lee, thanks for the reply.  Assuming you are the same guy on summitpost, your pictures were a major inspiration for me to visit the Karakoram...

My understanding is that people typically chip in the collective cost for fixing the route, so that's what im looking for. Anyway you have pretty much answered my question; theres no other mountains anyway.

Yes, central asia is another obvious option.  Khan Tengri is colder and the weather is bad though, and then there's that dangerous heli ride.  The situation in Korzhenevskaya and Communism is abit complicated with a rundown base camp, people getting sick.

 

 

 

In reply to iron_monkey:

Thanks! Yeah that's me.

Apart from commercial trips and 8000ers, seige-style expeditions are less and less. In Pakistan people are tending to either climb 8000ers in full seige style or 6000m stuff in alpine style. Not a lot in between, except hard new routes. Think you'll be limited to the usual popular commercial peaks in Nepal, or the Stans if climbing fixed ropes is what you're set on. I've seen a few Shimshalis organising some interesting trips, which might be a possible lead. Eg Passu Sar last year (although they didn't get far). You should find the name if you Google Passu Sar. A lot of the 7000m stuff out of Shimshal is b**stard to get to though due to problematic glaciers. Plus many of the northern aspects of the high peaks immediately south are frankly terrifying.

In reply to Mr. Lee:

I'm set on fixed ropes as I think thats the only way a 'tourist' like me can have a taste of technical climbing, unless you think I am thinking this the wrong way?

"A lot of the 7000m stuff out of Shimshal is b**stard to get to though due to problematic glaciers."

Oh I know that very well and seen them with my eyes...those icefalls look utterly impossible.  Those 7000 peaks are climbed from the south (hispar side). They make potentially great commercial climbing destinations if only theres enough interest. These guys had a fun time 28 years ago: http://www.von-kaenel.com/bs/bs.html

 

In reply to iron_monkey: I'm guessing you know how much it is for a commercial trip for Nanga Parbat? I just had a look and could not find a fixed expedition or price? Just curious...

In reply to iron_monkey:

Jugging fixed lines is, by definition, not technical climbing.

In reply to Rob Parsons:

You know what i mean.  K2, ama dablam, etc aren't considered 'non-technical' trips just because you're on a fixed line either...

In reply to betathief:

Airport-Base camp only services is around 3.2-3.5k for a full 40 day trip. On top theres the cost of a high altitude porter/guide (eg, I was quoted $3.7k by one), high altitude food, contribute to route fixing, etc. YMMV

Maybe for now I should just be content with scrambling and simul-climbing on some moderate slopes, such as left and right of this photo: https://assets.alpineexposures.com/Blog/Charakusa_2012/_1900x1400_fit_cente...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In reply to iron_monkey: Maybe for now I should just be content with scrambling and simul-climbing on some moderate slopes, such as left and right of this photo: https://assets.alpineexposures.com/Blog/Charakusa_2012/_1900x1400_fit_cente...

I will look forward to reading that trip report.

 

In reply to L.A.:

When I did Spantik, there was maybe 25m of fixed ropes that came off the slope when pulled on....

https://www.summitpost.org/snow-falling-on-sirdars/811056

In reply to Dr Avinash Aujayeb: A really excellent trip report and some great pics there.

 

In reply to Rob Parsons:

Agreed. You've got some mixed up ideas here. You could always do a course in 'technical climbing' to see the difference.

 

JC

 

In reply to iron_monkey:

When I climbed Khan Tengri the fixed ropes removed all the need for technical ability. Using a jumar just needs a strong bicep when the ground gets steeper. I can honestly say that Scottish grade II felt more technical following my return.

In reply to L.A.:

Thanks L.A

In reply to Mr. Lee:

You must have strong calves if biceps were your only concern.  Planned your next trip to the greater ranges?