UKC

UKC Fit Club week 574

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 AJM 18 Mar 2018

Late entry to the music thread, but I have been enjoying some Hieroglyohic Being of late -  youtube.com/watch?v=G4BaDzedl0A& and I’m sure the rest of the album is probably also around somewhere (certainly Spotify etc)

 
Video I’ve been enjoying this week -  youtube.com/watch?v=LGIwBYztRdA& and other videos of classics at Smith Rock.
 
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbi...

Last week’s thread can be found here: 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/walls+training/fitclub_573-680929

AJM - looking forwards to hopefully seeing some folk out on Saturday

Si dH - boom! Nice one. How was Munich? Did you try any of the walls whilst you were there?

Hms - sounds like a strong performance out of the comfort zone leading to a well deserved rest week. What did you get up to this week, and what’s the focus?

Guy127917 - how was Rjukan? Assume you rested a little bit from that manic schedule before going!? Pulling some pretty hefty deadlifts and pull-ups there too, nice one.

AlanLittle - hope you got over the bug swiftly. I’ve always thought the right circle of partners is a massively underrated training asset

Mrchewy - good to hear the shoulders are holding up. More big mileage this week?

Tom Green - shame about the route conditions, but that sounds like some pretty good ski mountaineering fun! If we keep doing the skiing trips then getting into that sort of thing is definitely on my list!

Tyler - when’s Kalymnos? Did you manage to squeeze anything much in this week? Thursday sounds like a positive for your week?

Dandan82 - I reckon you did the right think with the shorter sessions and lower load this week. There’s nothing worse than going hard the first day you feel better and wiping yourself out for another 5 days! Maybe see you at the wall next week?

Cyan - Venga! How did it all go?

Bones [:B - how was Blokfest? Hope you’d got over the grit from the latter part of the week. Very impressed that you can manage to recover sensibly from both the aerobic stuff and the climbing, I’d break within about a week!

Ally Smith - are you able to give us any clues on where the newbie is? Don’t you need to finish some of the existing ones? glad to hear the finger held up to the training

the sheep - I’m just as bad as that prehab stuff - I only ever do it once it’s too late. Sounds like a strong performance Sunday

Andy Nelson - that’s a pretty good “cross training” schedule - I like it. I don’t think there’s a better/alternative thread view for tracking across multiple conversations I’m afraid.

Brodes - muscle ups are one of those I want to work on too. Sounds like a pretty good week -more progress on the 5A workout this week?

Just Tintin - are you out in the Peak this weekend? Detailed self analysis can only help in working out the best way forward. Training heavy is fine - training is cumulative and weight isn’t (an important one from RCTM which I was glad of when I gave up on diet control with the little one)

Climbthatpitch - bullet dodged with the knee then do you reckon?

Biscuit - ftp tests are grim! I’ve some friends who cycled home to the lakes from Slovenia one summer a few years back, then did the Fred when they got back and said it was their favourite of all. Love to do it one day and great to have a big objective to work towards. Are you planning to do much recce of segments of the actual route?

Richard Popp - do you have anything in mind for the 7b/+? I’d always recommend House Burning Down for that sort of thing, plus Still Waters. How’s the training planning going?

LauraMorrissey - complex terrain and lower visibility makes nav so much harder - nothing like a clear day and obvious open terrain! Have you met many local climbers in Brisbane? We met some folk from that neck of the woods when we were fanning round Europe...

Powderpuff - sometimes you’ve just got to play the hand you’re dealt when it comes to time! This week any better?

planetmarshall - if it’s 1RM stuff, does that work the same as climbing recruitment (ie there are neurological gains you pick back up pretty quick once you start working on them again?)

Ardo - your sessions look relatively short, which I guess makes for tricky tactics in terms of having time to fit in enough of a warmup whilst still having time for the main event each time?

Leon - enjoy skiing!

Mattrm - building back into things, sounds good. I don’t know if it’s just me but I’ve found on my phone the new website format and autocorrect seem to play really badly with each other, which I’m finding a source of frustration.....

TheFasting - multiple topropes of WI5/6 sounds like really solid progress, nice one - building the physical base for some harder leading soon as well? I wish I had the opportunity to train cracks more - definitely not my strength but so few walls have anything that resembles a proper continuous crack any more...

 AlanLittle 18 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

STG: Addressing the head game: fall or jump off every time I have a rope on. 

Top out on the Big Intimidating Roof sector at Thalkirchen.

MTG (2018): Onsight 7a; redpoint 7b multiple times on routes that aren't pure boulder problems

LTG (2021): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60 

> hope you got over the bug swiftly

Thanks Andy, but sadly not. I would have brought a sick note from my mum for this week, but she is no longer with us so you'll just have to take my word for it.

M: Still laid low with virus.

T: Convalescing from virus, but at least my son is over the knee strain he suffered skiing in February. So took him to Boulderwelt, but didn't do anything myself.

W: More convalescing.

T: Recovered (frustrated) enough to venture a bit of fingerboarding. Tried Steve Maisch's benchmark as discussed in the recent Power Company Podcast - absolute maximum single 7 second hang on any edge, then as many as possible 7/3 repeaters at 80% of that weight on the same edge. Managed nine reps, which supposedly is normal and means I have a reasonably healthy balance of strength and power endurance. Or something.

F: Awoke to a strange and unfamiliar sensation of health & energy. And warm sunshine outside. Seized the opportunity - before the lurgy and Little Ice Age inevitably kick back in - and leapt on bike to work

S: ... which turned out to be premature. Back to bed.

S: In a depressingly exact repeat of last week, thought better of declaring myself prematurely fit to go to the wall & watched Studio Blocmasters on telly instead.

 

Post edited at 17:03
 mrchewy 18 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy, thanks for stepping in - yeah big miles but for the feet this week.

Summer Goal - Salbit West Ridge

Mon - Boulder. Autobelay 35min up and down. Jacked it in, too tired (4th day on) and kids all over the place, crossing into your line. In hindsight really wasn't in the mood but last chance to train for a few days. 

Tue - worked late, stripping woodchip all day

Wed - worked late

Thu - worked late

Fri - Good stretching and physio session. Autobelay 1hr 15min up and down. Easy boulder after.  Work after.

Sat - Walked 43.1km in 7hr 22min. Pretty flat. Horrendous weather. No food, no drinks, no stopping.

Sun - Rest day.

Good things are the left shoulder is coming along nicely, I can finally hold on directly above my head. Holds out diagonally and up, like the one on Trunk of Punk that finished it off, are fine and no discomfort. This is a massive improvement on 8 weeks ago when I set off for Spain and it's now hard to imagine how weak I was back in November in Font. I thought the ACL I tweaked in Oct might have complained after yesterday but whilst a little achy, a couple of annoying blisters from the edge of the insoles - the legs feel good today.

 

Had a good think about the Swiss granite whilst on the autobelay, trying to think of reasons why the West Ridge might be hard for me and came to the conclusion that it's time on feet that's needed. The last pitch of Motörhead was painful on the feet for sure. I went through all 32 pitches of the West Ridge, the grades for each, where you have to pull on bolts etc and I'm sure I'll be fine with the climbing. The offwidth pitch looks a bit entertaining tho! René wouldn't have asked me otherwise but I need to do big days with little rest in the run up to summer.

Hence the big walk yesterday and I've decided to sack off a couple of climbing days in Siurana and go for big walks up Monsant instead. Messing about trying hard on limestone won't help on Salbit but having miles and height gain in my legs will. So more of this in training and when I get back from Swizzy mid April, I'll turn my attention to doing a slow Welsh 3000s, something like 15hrs and 5000m height gain with scrambling through in. That sort of training enabled me to run Hadrian's Wall and I'm sure it'll get me up Salbit too.

I think I'll throw a bit of foot on campusing in this week and then on Saturday it's to Cornudella.

 

 

Post edited at 17:45
 Si dH 18 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

Thanks mate.  Munich was good from a work perspective and from a enjoying-the-beer/pretzel-perspective, but it wasn't very healthy!  There was no time for a trip to a local wall but I managed 30 minutes in the hotel gym on Monday and Tuesday mornings, just doing some bicep curls, some flies and some chinups on  bar.

STGs January-March 2018:
- weight down to 71.5kg (started at 77.0kg evening of 31/12.) [Fail - have put some weight back on recently.]
- do some 7s and put up one of my own on the new woodie at The Climbing Unit [Tick - done several now]
-Tetris [Tick!]

M/LTGs from April: 7B in Font, Eastwood Traverse, Mentalist, Caviar

M: away with work, did a short gym session, ate well but had a couple of beers

T: away with work, did a short gym session, ate and drank too much in the evening

W: away with work then travel home.  Comfort eating before bed as I was knackered...

T: intended to do a fingerboard session but felt tired and just ended up eating comfort food intead...

F: Fingerboard session - did a series of 2-handed  max-ish hangs on 14mm edge, 3 degree sloper, 2 finger pockets.  Fairly low intensity as it was the first fingerbaord session in a few weeks

S: Shoulder workout - did 4 x sets of low rows, reverse flies and IYWs.

S: Climbing Unit, did a bunch of the new oragns (V3-5).  Quite a few steep and slopey ones, which should be good training for Font!  Can feel my elbow a bit, so have done some rehab work this evening.

Have eaten better over the weekend after a really poor show in the week.  Still not done any kettlebell work...bad Simon.

Weight this evening is a bit over 75 kg.

Cheers,

Si 

 Tyler 18 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

> when’s Kalymnos? Did you manage to squeeze anything much in this week? Thursday sounds like a positive for your week?

I get to Klaymnos two weeks on Thursday, given my current weight and fitness I don't expect to achieve much, I'm in a worse place than this time last year when I went. 

As predicted this week as been a write off with work and a weekend watching rugby in Cardiff. Wednesday I went to BUK and got sucked into trying new problems before finishing off with some FOC. Tried for minute off minute on x4 twice. Completed first set but (after 5 mins rest) only managed 60 secs, 45, 45, 38 on second set.

Went to house of pain on Thursday but did very little because I felt broken. 

Weight: I did get a couple of days consistently below 10:11 but it shot up suddenly even before this weekends drinking and gluttony.

 hms 18 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

Hello there AJM! Thanks for the comments. As far as focus it's a bit tricky as D2 has exams coming up so general household stress levels are likely to rocket and opportunity to get out to plummet. Therefore rather on a holding formation for the next month or so. After that, Portland for Nightmare Scenario & Brean for Storm Warning.

M - cycle commute. Yoga. Wrist seriously unhappy about side planks - dumped me on the floor.
T - cycle commute. FB in evening: 5/10/5/3 x5 with increasing weight so up to +18kg. Rest then 7/3/6/1 x10 with 7kg assist and forcing myself to crimp rather than drag.
W - cycle commute. Redpoint autobelays for an hour in the afternoon - 20 routes in blocks of 4, from very easy to ~6c. Doesn't help when one line has dark grey, dark purple and black on it, all liberally covered in rubber and chalk!
T - cycle commute. UCR in evening. 14 routes including getting a 7a which has taken a few goes: so silly hard moves but no easy ones either, so it should be great to train on. Faded seriously at the end when I failed to get up the route I'd whizzed up as my first warm-up.
F,S,S - family weekend being tourists in London. Which did involve a significant amount of walking.

 Powderpuff 18 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

Much more training this week tah.

Monday: Warmed up with 2 of the v3-5 circuit then climbed 4 of the v4-6 circuit.core session to fnish 

Wednesday:same warm up as monday then worked 5 of the v5 -7 circuit made small progress on all the problems.core session to finish.

Saturday:finger board session at home, max hangs on slopers.

 

Elbows have been a little tight of late..need to make sure they dont get worse.

must remember to:

-stetch out forearms

-climb with more momentum

-be aware of having food posture

-climb less on crimps and more on open holds

 

OP AJM 18 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

Mixed bag this week.

Tuesday was the wall. A fairly decent session. Some of last weeks zip on the campus board was lacking but I guess I would have been constantly getting 1-4-5.5 had such a thing existed so I suppose it’s not all bad. I think I did some ok problems as well.

Thursday was very good fingerboard session. Lattice edge again. New pb, by about half a kilo, and because I was light this also translated to a pb in percentage terms of over 92%. Pleased with that.

I did some weighted pull-ups on Friday morning, at about 93kg managing 3 and starting a fourth. At some point, I forget exactly when, I definitely did some half decent flies too.

The weekend has all been a bit crazy. MiniAJM seems to have decided he’s scared of his cot in the night - if he wakes up in the night he just screams until you come and get him out - which has meant being up for 2hours in the night the last two nights. Combined with a friend visiting that means I haven’t done anything, and I’m going to go to bed early tonight rather than train in the hope that if he does it again I’ll at least have slept enough before it happens.

Diet fell off the wagon a bit Monday and Tuesday, although I pulled it back by the end of the week -71.1kg on Friday morning and my fingerboard session on Thursday night, after dinner, was a clothed weigh in of not much over 72. I’m sure it will have slipped again over the weekend a bit, and midweek is my wedding anniversary so less room for net gains over the coming week, but I reckon I should still be in a pretty good place by Font, which is only 12 days away now!

Keeping fingers crossed for decent enough weather for a day out on Saturday in the Peak somewhere.

 Ardo 18 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

STGs, (Jan-Mar)

- weight target 10st 7lb/bf 15% (started at 11st 1lb/18% 1/1/18)

- e1 trad leads

- lead 7a indoor

 

MTGs, (Apr-Jun)

- weight target 10st/bf 12.5% (started at 11st 1lb/18% 1/1/18)

- e2 trad leads

- lead 7b indoor, 7a outdoor

 

W/C 12/3/18, (Anaerobic Endurance)

Mo: General walking, 5.9 miles. Bouldering, (10 problems, ~10 mins boulder circuits, campus 10 sets).

Tu: General walking, 6.6 miles. Rest day.

We: General walking 6.2 miles. Rest day.

Th: General walking, 6.1 miles. Lead climbing, (8 routes including 7a clean: stg achieved 8-).

Fr:  General walking, 6.1 miles. Bouldering, (10 problems, 20 mins hangboard).

Sa: General walking, 6.9 miles. Bouldering, (10 problems, 20 mins hangboard).

Su: General walking, 8.5 miles. Quick gym session, (1k row, 5k ride, 3k run).

- weight 10st 5lb/bf 15.6%

Skin started to give out on Monday, so change of approach for power endurance: took two rest days; lead climbing on Thursday with repeated attempts on 7a’s and 7a goal achieved; boulder session, followed by 20 mins hangboard repeated Friday and Saturday. 

AJM - your sessions look relatively short, which I guess makes for tricky tactics in terms of having time to fit in enough of a warmup whilst still having time for the main event each time?

The time is for exercise time, not session length, so typical session something like:

~15 mins warm up; 30-45 mins bouldering, (10-15 problems @ 3mins/problem); 20-40 mins specific training type; plus 10-20 mins rests.

 Cyan 18 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

Siurana great, no big ticks but super-close on La Muerte del Sponsor quickly (last move...) and really loving climbing and redpointing in a way I've not done for a while. Moved on to the boat today.

Next week: back to proper training and a more orderly life!

 MauraLorrissey 19 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

Thanks AJM. The Australian bush is full on... much less visibility and a lot of low scrub... and everything wants to kill you. I've met a number of local climbers through the company I train with, but feel I need to keep expanding my outdoor climbing circle. Brisbane people seem to be everywhere... you can't get away from us  

 MauraLorrissey 19 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

Great week! 
 
I finally progressed with my outdoor leading/head game at Brooyar on the weekend. I had top-roped a grade 20 and flashed it, so attempted it on lead the next day. I got about the 3rd bolt took a massive whipper. I managed to get back on and finish the route. Big wins for my grade/head game. 
 
STG/Weekly:
*do 5 pull ups (by the time Jen arrives) - no progress 
*lead a 18 (5c) at Kangaroo Point (currently at 14) - no KP session, but lead a 20 at Brooyar!!! yey! 
*3 climbing session per week (either boulder, top rope or lead) - 4 sessions, two top rope, 2 outdoor days - tick
*1 longer ride per week (>10km) - nope
MTG:
*100km cycle - either Brisbane to Bay (17th June) - have now entered 
*Lead "Zeitgeist" - 3 pitches, 17(5b), 13(4b), 15(4c) - aiming for Easter
*Climb "Troposphere" - 5 pitches, 15, 17, 18, 15, 16
LTG:
*buy a van by the end of 2018 
*sport climbing trip Blue Mountains with Bones (October) - lead a 20
*climb a big wall before I'm 40
Monday:
AM: x100 back squats (bar only) / half burpees, cross jump squats, step ups, dead hangs / core exercises
Tuesday: 
AM: Mt Coot-tha hike - 5km, 200m elevation, 59mins
Wednesday:
AM: skiers, dips, mountain climbers / x6 push press & hold walk (7.5kg) / chest press progression to (37.5kg x 4) / scotty bobs (7.5kg), run two blocks
PM: Top-rope session, finger was fine. Felt like I was finally making conscious power moves instead of hoping to do them. 
Thursday:
AM: swim 1.8km
Friday:
AM: lots of stairs... included strength work with 8kg dumbbell. 
PM: Top-rope session, cleaned two routes I was working on. Both overhung routes. 
Saturday:
Brooyar 
Lead: 15,15,17, 16
Top rope: 20, 20
Sunday:
Brooyar
Lead: 16, 16, 20
Top rope: 20, 19
 Dandan 19 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

> Dandan82 - I reckon you did the right think with the shorter sessions and lower load this week. There’s nothing worse than going hard the first day you feel better and wiping yourself out for another 5 days! Maybe see you at the wall next week?

Thanks Andy, yeah I went back and did a problem this week that I couldn't touch last week, so despite feeling recovered, I still had a way to go, i'm back to full strength now though!
Wall Tuesday perhaps?

M: "Dive team core" - This is a really tough session, 600 core movements plus 10 minutes of plank! I managed to complete 70% before I turned to cooked spaghetti, big DOMS for 2 days afterwards.

T: Aero Fingerboard; 7/3 for 10 minutes at 30% of max. This is definitely easing up, I need to ask Lattice if I should try to up the weight towards the original 40% or stay where I am.

W: Conditioning; dumbell press, hanging shoulder depressions, low rows, reverse flys, prone IYT, rotator cuff curls.
Lower body flexibility

T: Indoor Boulder; Board problems - 8 problems of ascending difficulty, max 3 goes on each. This session was great, I mixed in a couple of normal wall problems as well to add more than just crimps, but I ticked 7 of 8 problems, the last being a new board project which is way beyond me. Ticks included my old board project with some new foot beta for the last move, really happy to tick this again.

F: Aero Fingerboard; as above

S: Indoor Boulder; Comp at the Project. Another decent set of 25 problems, I got 224/250 after a couple of silly dropped attempts, but there were 2 problems that I couldn't touch, a slab and an overhanging route on slopers. I managed to flash one particularly hard problem which I thought might give me the edge but then my friend Sam managed to flash it too and he didn't drop silly points elsewhere like I did so I think I might have come second, results aren't out yet.

S: Playing in the snow!

Elbow got a bit worked after the comp, although I mostly put it down to a lot of chiselling on Friday. It felt great Sunday so I did some more chiselling, finished the motices for a door, but the elbow is suffering a little today, it's going to have to man up!

STG: (last week)
* Repeat woody project as part of a session - TICK!
* Do all sessions on plan to show i'm over the lurgy - Sort of tick, I missed a stretching session
* 30 second handstand - FAIL but got some good pointers from Emily at the Project.

STG: (next week)
* 1 arm fingerboard this week, try to set benchmark 10 sec hang at bodyweight or more
* 30 second handstand 

MTG: (next few months)
* Pull on Nina mala/flash over in Margalef in May
* 7c in a day on Portland
* 8a in a day in Margalef in May
* Pick a lattice max moves target for May based on result from last test

LTG: (This Year)
* 150 ticks in logbook - 31/150
* tick 3 x 8a
* tick 10 x 7c/7c+ - 1/10
* Go to Kilnsey
* Get to December without any new injuries
* +bodyweight pull ups (2 reps) 
* Enter BLCC and don't come dead last 

BHAG:
* 9a by March 2022 (40th Birthday)
* Stage 1a of BHAG is 8b by the end of the year

 

 Ally Smith 19 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy - totally agree that I'm accumulating incomplete FA projects! This latest one is on a convenient spot for getting a belay though; 10s from Parisella's cave. I've done a bit more cleaning this weekend and got the remaining 2 bolts in; hopefully it's a low f8...?

Week 11

M – Felt like I’d been run over by a train after bolting session. Really rough, almost viral shivers – is this what it’s like to be old? Early night.

T – Bounced back like a 20 year old! Max hangs. 15mm lower edge on BM2K. 4x8s +23.5kg. Then repeaters @BW+5kg – couple of failures, inc back-2 – dropped off the pace a little since pre-Margalef peak. Extra STGs to complete this session in full (4x10s @23.5kg, full double round @5kg). 3 rounds TRX; shoulders & core like jelly – ate some cake and smashed 12x 1on/1off FoC aero-cap (which felt pi$$)

W – No #DOMS – body must be adapting – that or I need to work it harder! Pilates – some hip/glute soreness.

T – Boardroom; did Pete’s recommended an-cap session. “Boulder” triples on the lattice dishes circuit; 8 moves. Felt too easy, and ended up doing 10 sets, and even then wasn't that powered out. 10 moves next time? Quick rest, then 12x 1on/1off aero-cap on the board “7a” circuit. 10min TRX to finish.

F – Sore back overnight – need to watch that it doesn’t get worse.

S – Bloody cold with a easterly blowing into the cave. Tried Broken Heart/Upper Cut and CBLS Upper Cut, but first had damp foothold (=bruised shin) and 2nd had me numbed/powered out. An-cap; 4x Flake start/Pillar Finish & 4x cave Life (3 successes). Skipped last set as feet numbed out and elbows were having a little grumble. Bolting/cleaning to finish.

S – Nowt – wedding planning.

 Tom Green 19 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

Hi All. Thanks AJM -great job as supply teacher!

Yep, can thoroughly recommend these ski-mo shenanigans... I didn't start skiing until three years ago, and only took it up as a way to access mountain routes in winter, but I'm getting in to the idea of touring/ski-mo being fun by itself rather than just a means to an end. Certainly, it makes climbing easier summits more attractive (Gran Paradiso would have been a bit of a dull slog up and down, but on skis was miles more interesting). Get amongst it!

This week I'm starting to wrap up Quarter One and look towards Q2, with my MTGs now becoming STGs. I'll still be getting at least one weekend of Scottish winter in, but the focus will shift to rock now. Q2 also marks the start of my TFTNA Base Phase -hitting the Max Strength stuff. Never really done 'proper' strength training before, so I'm a little nervous about how my back, shoulders and elbows hold up, so I guess I need to take it steady and not forget the prehab. Still another week of Transition to go though...

Last Week:

Hit all targets except dropped one strength session.

M: Rest and ate lots (was still ravenously hungry following trip!)

T: Short trail run (30min Z1, hilly) and bouldering session at Grinshill (up to V2, fingers felt weak!)

W: Core and climbing specific strength session (first session for a month -felt hard)

T: Short road run (25min Z1, flat) and indoor bouldering (60min of continuous up and down V0-V2)

F: Shoulder rehab

S: Road run (Z3, 8.8km at 5:12/km, flat)

S: Hill walk (Z1, 7km at 12min/km, steep with deep snow)

Next Week:

Slightly easier week before starting max strength

2 x Z1 sessions

1 x Z3 session

1 x climbing

1 x general strength

Repeat Alpine Combine Test

STG Q2:

General theme is to continue training 'mountain fitness' for Kyrgyzstan whilst getting plenty of time rock climbing.

E1 on 3+ rock types

Boulder 6B in Lofoten

Sandstone trail in <10h

MTG Q3:

'El Cap Nose Day' (880m climbing in 24h)

Kyrgyzstan new routes

LTG Q4:

Schmid Route on Matterhorn

BHAG...

The Colton-Brooks (ED2 5)

Le Coeur (f7A)

West Ridge (ED1 6b)

Renaissance (E5 6a)

Centurion (Winter) (VIII 8)

 

 Brodes 19 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

> Brodes - muscle ups are one of those I want to work on too. Sounds like a pretty good week -more progress on the 5A workout this week?

Mega progress on MeastMaker.  This week I used chalk for the first time, and completed the 5A workout.  Chalk makes a huge difference. 

Monday. 4 miles bike. Morning BeastMaker 5A workout. Same as usual performance: bodyweight hangs until fail towards end of 4th rep 3rd hang. Mix of bodyweight and assisted hangs thereafter. Evening 30s handstand against wall. Fly to business trip. 1/2 pint beer.

 

Tues. In hotel (no gym). 3*30s handstand against wall. 3*10 sit ups felt good for back mobility. Not especially taxing. Stretching, which led to some back discomfort. 1/2 bottle wine at networking event.

 

Weds. In hotel (no gym). Rest.  Probably walked 3-4 miles. 4 pints beer.

 

Thurs. Fly back. 4 miles bike. BeastMaker 5A workout. Used chalk during 2nd half of workout. Big difference. Much better hangs, tougher on skin though. 1/2 pint beer.

 

Friday. 19 miles bike. 1 and1/2 pints.

 

Saturday. 3 * 30s handstands against wall. 12 consecutive chin ups. 2 glasses wine. 1 double whisky. 

 

Sunday. Morning: 300m freestyle swim. 

Evening Quick warm up: 30 air squats, shoulder circles, 3*10 push ups, wrist stretches, around 5 gentle hangs and around 10 chin-ups. Chalked up!

Finished BeastMaker 5A workout without any fails. All bodyweight hangs. 12 total hangs of 7* 7s on, 3s off. Fell off an instant after the end of the final hang. Was giving it 100%. Lost some skin on 3rd pad left index finger, and blister on right index finger same place.

 Bones [:B 19 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

> Bones [:B - how was Blokfest? Hope you’d got over the grit from the latter part of the week. Very impressed that you can manage to recover sensibly from both the aerobic stuff and the climbing, I’d break within about a week!

 

Hi AJM, I was going to right something a little rude until I realised it wasn’t Guy! Loving that video - that and all the videos Morrissey keeps sending me are getting me psyched to get outside again.

Training seems fine when in action but it is really hard to fit it all in. Blokfest was so good. I didn’t do my training this week but still exhausted myself by doing loads and loads of stuff leading up to Blokfest (not training) and staying up late every night but I felt so good and it was super fun. Couldn’t have worked much harder so was really happy with the outcome and pretty excited to get back on plastic and real rock soon.

Transitional phase - week 8 plan:
Aerobic activity - 367 mins
Zone 1/2 (walk/running/stepper) time - 277 mins
Climbing sessions - 2
Fingerboard sessions - 0
Strength (and core) sessions - 2

Benchmarks:
Boulder grade max: V4
Lead climb max: 6c+
Top-rope max (it does count): 7a
Weighted pull-top max: 8.75kg x 1 rep
Max bench press: tbc
Max dead lift: tbc

Monday: lead climbing session - I am not lead climbing happily at the moment so I decided to try top roping, not gripping the holds too much, feeling free to fall, getting used to the feeling and just enjoying the movement again - all with a few easier lead climbs mixed in. I don’t think it’ll take much but I just feel a bit like it’s a mental chore rather than a pleasure and I want to enjoy my climbing sessions more.

Tuesday: rest

Wednesday: boulder session - I felt really strong, was climbing well flashing some of the pink circuit which is v4-6 and pretty confident on small footholds.

Thursday: rest

Friday: rest

Saturday: blokfest - 25 problems, I tried all but one (dyno which then seemed to have a hard finish) - flashed 18, worked and completed 2 more and tried really hard to get one in the cave. I was very happy with my result as I worked as hard as I could. Came 18th in the end. If I was old enough to be in the veteran category I would have come joint first and been on the podium so just gotta keep this up for another 5 or 10 years ;p

Sunday: rest

LTG:
To climb a big wall - El Cap
Lead 7a+ 2018
Run a trail marathon
Lead E1

MTG:
The Matterhorn 
Lead 30 x VS trad routes
Lead 5 HVS trad routes
Lead The Great Slab at Millstone Edge (HS 4b)
To lead one 7a lead indoors from each reset
Run a trail half marathon
To complete the TFTNA training plan starting with the 8 week transition phase
Goals for Australia in September tbd

STG:
To enjoy lead climbing, maybe top-rope a little more on harder grades to take some pressure off and have fun - yes
Fall practice each rope session - yes, did some on top-rope, slowly slowly catchy monkey
To plan my week every Sunday - yes
To keep a record of benchmarks in climbing and gym work
To keep an eye on my plan for the week so that I make sure I get in all my zone 1

 Bones [:B 19 Mar 2018
In reply to Cyan:

Sounds awesome. Glad you had a good time. How is the boat??

 Bones [:B 19 Mar 2018
In reply to LauraMorrissey:

So proud. Awesome work Morrissey.

OP AJM 19 Mar 2018
In reply to Cyan:

Sounds like some positive mental vibes nice one.

What you need is a cracking autumn holiday to work towards

1
 guy127917 19 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

Thanks for picking up the mantle Andy. In the end my flight was delayed 7 hours- and have ended up at work today without going home first so just as well someone did!

> Guy127917 - how was Rjukan? Assume you rested a little bit from that manic schedule before going!? Pulling some pretty hefty deadlifts and pull-ups there too, nice one.

I had two rest days!

Monday: 45 minutes run, short evening climbing session - 8 pitches up to 6c+ I think

Tuesday: Felt wasted, decided to have a rest day

Wednesday: Planned rest day + travel to Oslo

Thursday: Drove to Rjukan, did Tjønnstadbergfossen (WI-4) during the day and Gråbeinsisen (WI-4) at night- expecting the spotlights to come on to light it up, but they didnt!!

Friday: Walked 1 hour up in to Mael Amphitheatre, but all the routes looked incredibly snowy- decided against it (committing ab in). Went to Ozzimossis for some cragging, did 5 pitches, highlight was actually a very easy solo of Anakje (WI-3)

Saturday: Intended to do the Gausta Marathon, but after 1:20 approach up through thigh deep snow, we saw the route was totally under snow. Bailed to Krokan for more cragging. Lead 7 pitches upto WI5, pretty exhausted by the end of the day.

Sunday: Boshed up Sykehusfossen (WI-4) and drove back to Oslo airport. Plane delayed 7 hours. Sadness.

 

In summary- great trip, got plenty of good technical practice and some longish days out of it. 

This week I will take a day or two to recover, get some strength and boulder sessions in and then plan to do a couple of longer trail runs at the weekend. Our van is currently out of action so that may not be possible, we shall see. 

 the sheep 19 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

> the sheep - I’m just as bad as that prehab stuff - I only ever do it once it’s too late. Sounds like a strong performance Sunday

Cheers AJM, Sunday was good. Now i know I can do the event the next goal is not coming last 

Had a light week as I was at a three day first aid course off main campus so couldn't get to the pool. Week went as follows;

Monday, 1km lunchtime swim

Tuesday, 1 km lunchtime swim and 22km ride home

Wednesday, 16km ride home

Thursday, 13km run

Friday, naff all

Saturday, 7.5km run, bloody cold!

Sunday, rest (aka hiding from the crap weather)

 

 

 

 TheFasting 19 Mar 2018
In reply to guy127917:

I wanted to wait to post until you did, because on sunday I also did Tjønnstadbergfossen (WI-4) as my first ever multipitch ice route, and when I went to log it on UKC guess who was the last person to climb it before me! I found that pretty funny. Thanks for stepping out the trail!

Tjønnstadbergfossen was a huge milestone for me. I ropegunned the whole thing with a less experienced friend of mine. The last pitch was threatened by huge melting icicles that had been in the sun all day long (pretty warm at that point), so to minimize the risk I just took a running start and sprinted past them without placing any screws until I was above them. Made for a very strenous pitch.

Video illustration of pitch 4: https://loopvideos.com/-ooz0oRoE20?from=42&to=50

I can't believe how well this season turned out. My second season on ice and I've been out ice climbing every week except one, since the first week of December. Still maybe 1 or 2 weeks left where I'll still try to climb a bit, but if I can't go out I'm content with what I've done so far.

I was originally going to  Store Skagastølstind but the weather report showed -34C with windchill and 13 m/s winds, so... nah.

Other than that last week was plagued by an exam, so I didn't do any training besides a bodyweight strength session on wednesday I think?

I also did a bouldering session on monday but nothing in particular to report there. Flashed some 6As and 6A+ as usual, and failed my squat session by only getting 100 kg x 1 (instead of 3+).

Did some 3-6-9-12 hangboarding. One session left until I add weight again. It's taken me 11/12 weeks to do 1 cycle of 5/3/1 and hangboarding, both of those are 3-4 week programs... Need to get consistent.

 

Post edited at 17:04
 Si dH 19 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

Hi FitClub,

I made a bit of a video about trying Tetris. Feedback welcome as I've never done one like this before and think I come across a bit of a dork!

vimeo.com/260831570

P.S. bonus cute baby included.

Edit: PPS. Bonus point if you spot the two minor beta changes from last winter to this.

Si

Post edited at 21:28
 Tom Green 19 Mar 2018
In reply to Si dH:

Nice mate!

It’s a great problem... such a cool sequence. 

OP AJM 20 Mar 2018
In reply to Si dH:

Good stuff Si. Deeper into the process on one problem than the "fast food" style of some of your previous roundup videos. Enjoyed it .It's strange how the prow looks quite wide when you're climbing it, bit from the scenic shot of the boulder itself actually looks far narrower. 

 guy127917 20 Mar 2018
In reply to Si dH:

Great video, thanks for sharing. I like the format and editing, works well, and looks like a great problem!

 guy127917 20 Mar 2018
In reply to TheFasting:

Ha well done, there was a faint trail for us- breaking trail further across to sykehusfossen was much more annoying (and the ice was extremely questionable)!!

Which way did you climb? We stuck to the right the whole time I think. I thought the final column was pretty stiff really.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Q0vzX23AVltJUm5Y2 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/BytOhl64WiSEKLRY2

 TheFasting 20 Mar 2018
In reply to guy127917:

I didn't do the final column but climbed up the gully instead. We kept to the right the whole time, we were concerned about the ice hanging at the top considering how warm it was. The opportunities for protected belays seemed better on the right.

 Tyler 20 Mar 2018
In reply to Cyan:

Good stuff. I don't know how tall you are but I did think afterwards that anyone shorter than me might be disadvantaged on the last move. 

Any other route recommendations from your trip as on my last trip I wasted quite a lot of time on, what I thought were, sandbags. 

Post edited at 14:52
 Ally Smith 20 Mar 2018
In reply to Tyler:

Think you're similar heights - no idea about ape index though?

 Solsbury 20 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM: Thanks Andy, get the plan, first eight weeks in detail, copied form last year, perfectly fits with the link you reminded me of. Had a couple of local(ish routes in mind Retrobution (7b) and or Playboys (7b+). the 7b+ is an aspiration for this time next year. Need to sort out some intermediate goals and a destination for late October. 

OK week in the face of work

Indoor pyramid 4/8 6a, 3/4 6a+, 3/2 6b, 1/1 6b+

M-Routes at UCR-been frustrating four with one rope.

T-Yoga/rehab weights

W-Yoga/rehab

Th-TCA, good session, ticked more V2-4.

Fr-Yoga/rehab

Sa-TCA boulder, OK session.

Su-benchmarking the hangs 5 sec hangs 10 sec rest, four finger crimpX 3, 3 finger open X 2, 1 kg, could really feel this later but it is a start.

Rich

 

 

 planetmarshall 20 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

> planetmarshall - if it’s 1RM stuff, does that work the same as climbing recruitment (ie there are neurological gains you pick back up pretty quick once you start working on them again?)

Yes I believe so, although these 1 RM sessions are just for benchmarking. The real neurological gains will come (hopefully) when I start a max strength phase in about 7-8 weeks time.

A half decent week of training - so I'm counting this as the first week of an 8 week transition phase. Hopefully I can keep it up

Tue - Strength and Conditioning.
2x Core (Suspended Crunch, Windshield Wipers, Hindu pushup, Side Plank, Toes to bar)
3x Supersets (Pullups/DB Shoulder press, Front Squat/Ring Dip, Deadlift/Bench Press)

Thu - Afternoon - Yoga
Evening - Strength and Conditioning
1x Core
3x Supersets (Pullups/DB Shoulder Press), Front Squat
1RM on inclined DB Bench Press (25kg each arm)
 - Finding the DB Bench Press much easier on the shoulders than the barbell.

Sat - Poacher's Fall (V 5) with Zoe. Wouldn't normally go so far on a weekend (second time I've said that this season, though) - but Zoe hadn't climbed in the NW before despite several previous attempts, and it's a bit of classic. Started late so only one party on the route and they were a pitch ahead.

STG

  • Increase Z1 aerobic work
  • Continue strength and conditioning and increase volume.
  • Get out at the weekend - possibly Scotland again.
  • 2 days rest maximum
  • Create some MTG and LTG!

BHAG

  • Eiger
  • The American Direct
  • The Nose

 

 biscuit 20 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy.

Yes the plan is to recce all the passes before the big day. Today was supposed to be one of those days but I've got the lurgy which seems to have got worse rather tan better. So no biking since the last big ride due to a combo of weather and being ill.

I have gone climbing a few times though instead, which has been nice. I think twice or 3 times last week, can't quite remember. Session at Kendal was the standout when I got a 7b+ on the main wall. I don't think it's ever seen 7b+ in its life but good to know I can still go OK indoors. Not sure where that's come from. Even if it's 7b i'd be very happy, especially as I went to do a volume session due to feeling ill. 

I need to get myself well between now and the weekend. There's the chance of another passes ride on Sunday. I then start my next placement but it's a very bikeable 13 miles each way over the moors with a decent amount of climbing involved. If I can do that 3 times a week for the next five weeks with decent rides at the weekend i'll be happy with that. 

 mattrm 20 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

STG - Re-establish exercise 'normality' and loose some weight

MTG - 6c at Navigation, then WFD

LTG - Probably bouldering, bearing in mind Trad will be hard for the next few years...

Weight - 14st 7lbs

M - 15 routes at the Rec

T - Rest

W - 15 routes at the Rec

T - S - Rest

Well twice down the wall is getting close to the STG in a way.  Both good and bad tho.  Bad cause, god, I'm fat and crap now.  Good cause at least I'm able to get out twice a week.  Hope to get down the wall at least once next week, but have to fit in the boiler service.  Might see if I can get out for a run as well.

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy. What are your plans for Saturday? Technically I'm working in the evening in Oxford, but  we might do some crazy driving if conditions are okay. 

In reply to mattrm + SiDH + AJM:

Love this article and thought about you guys. Ben and I are happy to pay it forward if we can ever help.

http://bethrodden.com/2018/03/climbing-with-kids-in-praise-of-the-third-whe...

 

 Tyler 21 Mar 2018
In reply to Ally Smith:

> Think you're similar heights - no idea about ape index though?

As you might expect, I'm an anatomically perfect zero ape index!

 Ally Smith 21 Mar 2018
In reply to Tyler:

> As you might expect, I'm an anatomical defect - zero ape index!

 

Fixed that for you...

 

For a long time i thought i had a zero ape-index, however this was blown out the water in Sella with Cyan, AJM, hms et al; I came out as +3"...

 

Post edited at 16:41
 Tyler 21 Mar 2018
In reply to Ally Smith:

What with my dodgy hips, stoop and various other ailments I might actually have a positive index these days. On the other hand I can't fully straighten my arms or fingers!

OP AJM 21 Mar 2018
In reply to Just Tintin:

We were very glad of mrchewy third wheeling for us in Pembroke last year, in particular meaning we could actually get a route in together

That's very kind. Happy to provide a base for any antics down here that you have your eye on in return, or perhaps a FC trip to Pembroke or Gower or something once it gets a bit warmer?

Post edited at 17:11
OP AJM 21 Mar 2018
In reply to Just Tintin:

Uncertain at the minute. I know there's a preference for Western grit but the forecast is currently wavering: on balance looks a little better east, less chance of showers. I'll try to firm up tomorrow I think. 

 mattrm 22 Mar 2018
In reply to Just Tintin:

I like the idea of that as well.  My wife doesn't climb (and wouldn't want to spend a day at a crag either) so she'll pretty much always be looking after our son.  However I'm totally happy to look after other people's kids.  Pembroke in the summer would be ace.

In reply to AJM and mattrm:

Family-friendly FC summer trip sounds ace. Let's do it! 

OP AJM 23 Mar 2018
In reply to Just Tintin:

Ace

Is anyone else interested? If so, send me an email and I will maybe send round via email rather than clogging the thread. 

 Si dH 23 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM et al:

I'm not sure what Ruth would think, but keep me in the loop

 Tyler 23 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

I've been promising myself a trip to S west or Wales sport climbing for a while now so would be keen for something like that, depending on dates etc.

 mattrm 23 Mar 2018
In reply to Si dH:

> I'm not sure what Ruth would think, but keep me in the loop


What Si says, but obviously swap 'Ruth' for 'Matt's Wife'.

OP AJM 23 Mar 2018
In reply to Tyler:

If you drop me an email I'll keep you in the loop

Andy Nelson 24 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

@Guy - Rjukan - Mael Amphitheatre is on our list, we were there in Feb, did the same walk in, checked in the snow and declined the ab, and went to Ozzimossis too. Sounds like the rest of your trip was pretty good though.

@TomGreen - same same sir. About to start the max strength sessions for TFTNA and concerned about the stress factors involved for back and shoulders. Planning on just taking it careful, being thoroughly warmed up and concentrating hard on form. Will keep you posted. What movements have you chosen as your exercises? I am not sure yet, got a bit more reading to do....

So, last week, (I know its late in the week to be updating, but I spent first half mountain biking in Finale Ligura so then have been catching up on work etc.)

Monday:
AM - Step machine 90 minutes @ 130BPM
 
Tuesday:
AM - gen strength - full body. Now comfortable pushing wgt,  : cycle commute 30 minute
PM -  cycle commute 30 mins : WestWay bouldering, good session - usual warmups - worked V4/5 problems. Failed on 'orange overhang - 'next sessions mission'
 
Wednesday:
AM - core workout 45 mins. Pretty tired after last night's climbing : commute 30mins
PM - commute 30 mins
 
Thursday:
Travel to Finale Ligura
 
Friday:
Uplifts on the DH Men EWS course. Felt great to be back on the bike, handled well and nailed to good runs
 
Saturday:
Conditions were shitty, no uplift available. So.... rode 800m to ridge, dropped a short run and limbed back to ridge. Pedalled all of it, hammering HR at points. Stupid HRM was playing up, but 3 hours mainly Z3-4
 
Sunday:
Conditions now severe (given dress). 1000m sea to summit ride, in constant rain, then hail, then snow, then driving snow in high wind. Abandoned descent for hypothermic risk issues should anyone have an incident. (!) 
Took a solid 20 minute in heat of cafe to stop shaking. Pretty good rinse out though. 4 hours at Z3-5.
 
 

 

 

 Climbthatpitch 24 Mar 2018
In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy

 

Defiantly a dodged bullet. Just hope i have not used up one of my nine lives . I have spent lots of time stretching and walking after my runs and weights this week and have had no issues

This Weeks goals

9 hours zone 1 running - 8.5 hours so gonna give myself a tick

35 min z3 running - Fail

2 Max strength session - Tick

1 Climbing session - Tick

Loads of stretching - Tick

I'm not gonna post any goals for this week as it is almost over and I know what I have done and only 1 session planned for tomorrow. I have achieved everything I set out to achieve though as this was an easier week according to the plan. It was nice to have a bit of a break.

 

M - Rest

T - Max strength session

       8km run, 07:28 min per km, 70 meters accent

W - 25.51km run, 09:24 min per km, 833 meters accent

T - Indoor climbing routes up to 6b

F - Rest was planning on a short run but my youngest was ill so didn't do it.

S - Max Strength

      8km run, 07:34 min per km, 112 meters accent

S - 15km run, 09:56 min per km, 512 meters accent. Lots of this was through quite deep drifting snow which slowed me down a lot but it felt easy all the way

 

       

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy. Nominally sneaking in...

M - campus

T - core

W - routes

T/F - rest

S/S - Oxford - grossglockner - Oxford in 48 hours trip

 


New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...