UKC

Neumann addresses the complexity of dynamic movement - 'crossing gaps' - that has changed with the advent of three dimensional volumes, which require greater consideration of directional forces and momentum.

Interesting vid.

Has anyone seen Udo's video on Climbing Technique? I was wondering if it is worth watching?

That's not an analysis of anything. It's just a load of slow video clips and is quite possibly the most stupid and pretentious thing I've ever seen.

Agree. It sounds like it is going to be an in-depth analysis, but ends up saying nothing that isn't completely obvious. Plus the music sent me almost to sleep.

I don’t understand, this would have taken effort to make but does nothing?

Expectation: I was expecting something insightful, possibly a critique of methods and approaches leading to success.

Reality: Split screen footage with dry ambient techno-pop and no critical analysis.

I thought it was quite beautiful.

The moves you need to deal with these modern comp problems are amazing.

I agree, and if kinaesthetic beauty was my expectation I would have appreciated it more. But it wasn't promoted as beautiful; it was promoted as analysis, and since I couldn't find any analysis whatsoever I was left disappointed.

Udo's been making these side-by-side mashups with techno tunes for years. Why would you expect anything different here?

One of the best analyses I've seen of modern bouldering is this interview with him and others:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/2017_ifsc_competition_season_r...

Perhaps you are expected to do your own analysis by comparing the different dynamics climbers use, and if they’re successful or not, by seeing them side by side. That’s the part I enjoyed.

Perhaps there could have been a voiceover saying ‘she fell off here because her centre of gravity wasn’t corrected soon enough etc etc’ I’d rather watch and learn.

one shortcoming was not being able to appreciate the angles properly from a static camera angle.

Possibly, and to some extent I agree you can deduce quite a bit from looking at the side by side images critically. But if I clicked on a link promising an analysis of market trends, and was presented only with raw data, I'd probably feel similarly short-changed.

Then the problem is with the word analysis, which is not in the video anyway. 

Agreed.

Is Johnny Dawes missing out as a career as a routesetter?

The UKC headline is a little clickbait using too big words. But I enjoyed the video nonetheless.

Just because it doesn't have words, doesn't mean it's not analysis. It looks at difficult moves and compares climbers on them. Much like video analysis for rugby or football - they pull together relevant clips in a way that's useful. Someone might then talk through them or a team of coches discuss them etc.

That's the video.

That's the analysis.

I got bored after about a mintute

I don't see that's the distinction. You can present analysis in different ways.... at work I might just provide some slides with graphs and tables on them. It's analysis whether I talk through/comment in writing or not.

I wasn't being entirely serious, but the sporting analysis you mention refers to the people doing the talking.

Graphs and tables could show analysis, but I think we're trying to discuss the video presented here and getting sidetracked. And that video doesn't contain any graphs or tables. Aside from slowing down and pausing the action, the burden of analysis falls mostly on the viewer.

I really like the video BTW.

You should check out the live stream recording

I think selecting bits of video and comparing bits of video cpounts as an analysis. I appear to be in a minority of one though, so I shall stfu now  

Think I saw some of it. Not sure I'm a huge fan of modern comp bouldering. I have watched a few more recently though, thinking about it. Maybe I'll become a convert.

I like the video here, I thought if I watched it a few times I'd learn something useful. The movement's more interesting than the competition aspect.

whilst I normally like these side by side comparisons, I thought the EpicTV compilation far more exciting:

https://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/studio-bloc-masters-finals-2018-%7C-cl...

Although if you're talking excitement, it's a bit like saying the red paint was more exciting to watch dry than the blue paint.