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Seeking a book about knots

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 l'amour 18 Apr 2018

Hello. Has anyone got any tips for a solid how-to-tie-knots book?

After four years of bouldering I'm keen to get into climbing some routes.

Thanks in advance!

 discosucks 18 Apr 2018
In reply to l'amour:

https://www.amazon.com/Why-Knot-Ingenious-Beautiful-Lifesaving/dp/141970676... 

 

This is a great read with tons of interesting stories and really well illustrated . It has many knots that would transfer into climbing how ever if its only for climbing maybe something like liby peters book 

https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Essential-Skills-Techniques/dp/0954151... 

I picked up brand new old edition for 1.65 pounds the other day! It has knots shown in climbing situations . 

Also if you have a smart phone there is loads of good apps that have animated knots .  

 David Staples 18 Apr 2018
In reply to l'amour:

Not a book but a very useful website

http://www.animatedknots.com/indexclimbing.php

Thanks

David

 kestrelspl 18 Apr 2018
In reply to l'amour:

This is good for a climber. The Libby Peter book is good for introducing rock climbing technique

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Complete-Guide-Rope-Techniques-Revised/dp/07112272...

 Billymo 18 Apr 2018
In reply to David Staples:

Here i fixed this for you 

> KNot a book but a very useful website

> Thanks

> David

 

 Andy Hardy 18 Apr 2018
In reply to l'amour:

Single pitch trad basically only requires you to be able to tie a fig-8, and clove hitch.

For abseil approaches you need to be able to make and use prussic loops, and the overhand knot (3 more knots required, assuming you don't know how to tie an overhand knot!)

Self rescue / dropped belay plate, you should know how to do an Italian hitch and a 'slippery hitch' (don't know the proper name)

7 knots and you're ready for just about anything, so probably just look them up on the interweb and practise with a bit of old rope, rather than buy a book.

 Howard J 18 Apr 2018
In reply to l'amour:

The classic work is The Ashley Book of Knots.  Far more than you'll ever need to know.

For climbing, Nigel Shepherd's "The Complete Guide to Rope Techniques" is pretty comprehensive.

For climbing you don't really need to know how to tie many knots, it's more about how and when to use them.

 

 DanSharkey 18 Apr 2018
In reply to Andy Hardy:

This advice is particularly useful. You don't want/need a huge number of knots in climbing. More than about 10 is probably getting dangerous as you'll only mess them up. I think in my regular climbing I know and use only 9 as far as I can remember (if that). Libby Peter's book has more knots than you'll probably ever need and has a whole load more useful information about how and when to use them in addition!

The ones I use are below:

1) Figure of 8 (on a bight and re-threaded) - Used every time I tie in

2) Clove hitch - Use it repeatedly/extensively to build my belay anchors

3) Munter/Italian - Had to use it recently when I forgot my belay plate at the bottom of a pitch (to the immense chagrin of my 2nd!)

4) Overhand - Would use it in EDK style if I ever had to connect two ropes for abseiling. Can't remember the last time I used it if I'm honest, but I'd say it's a must-have (if only as a stopper knot on the end of a rope)

5) Double Fisherman's - creating loops out of cord

6) Water knot - creating loops out of tape

7) Lark's foot/girth hitch - slinging spikes/threads/anything where I don't trust it not to ride up (also the first step of a prusik knot)

8) Prusik (would use a pair when ascending a rope)

9) French prusik (for abseil backup/rescue, as it can be released under tension and is super easy to tie)

Because I only use a limited number, I know them intimately, I can tie them blindfolded if necessary, I know how they work and how they'll respond, I trust them wholeheartedly, other people know them and can inspect them, etc. KISS is a hugely important rule of climbing.

 

 alanblyth 18 Apr 2018
In reply to DanSharkey:

Possibly knot a not, but I would include the skill of tying off one's weighted belay plate (releasable obviously), something no-one ever showed me for quite awhile, until I attended the BMC Sea Cliff Improvised Rescue course (which was excellent).

(For a bonus, you could also include how to tie off an Italian hitch to create a releasable fixed line)

 

 
Post edited at 18:06
 gravy 18 Apr 2018

 

ABOK

In reply to l'amour:

"Knots & Ropes for Climbers" by Duane Raleigh, Stackpole Books, 1998 (illustrated by Mike Clelland) is about as good as any.

OP l'amour 20 Apr 2018
In reply to l'amour:

Many thanks, all. That animated knots sure is good.


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