UKC

When climbing Princesa Original (6c) (Top 50, 150m) some weeks ago we didn't find the anchor that the guidebook suggested. Anyone who did this climb? How did you get down?

Other thoughts:

• The guidebook suggests to do the big traverse and the last bit in one pitch – which is far from ideal because the traverse finishes on a ledge with some bigger bushes/ small trees, while there is a (new?) anchor at the end of the traverse and the ropedrag would be enormous.
• The 2nd pitch starts with a huge runout to the first bolt, while the climbing is not obvious.

The guidebook mentions the old first bolt which I felt didn't matter at all because climbing is super easy but it didn't mention the dangerous runout.

Hi Tobi

The abseil anchor is there since I did Sol Solet (6b+) a few years ago and the abseil is a good one. It may take some finding from Princessa but I seem to remember it being on pretty easy ground at the top.

By "do the big traverse and the last bit in one pitch" I assume you mean pitch 5 as we have described. It sounds like your solution could be a sensible option. Is this new belay at the right-hand end of the traverse? The one at the left-hand end is the one on Sol Solet (6b+).

The reason we mention the old first bolt is to help identify the line you are on, not as a warning. I don't remember much about a run-out on the second pitch but I will add it to our notes here.

Thanks for your feedback
Alan

We also did this a few weeks back. Didn't have rope drag problems on the final section.

We simply abseiled back down from the shared bolt belay at the top, then down to the ledge on sol solet (just right of the tree belay on princesa) then down to the anchor at the top of pitch 2 and straight to the ground from there. When we did sol solet (a much better route by the way) we came straight down the line in 3 long abseils.

There is a bit of a runout at the start of pitch 2, but the climbing is pretty easy, and you could always link the first two pitches if you were worried about a harsh fall.

What bugged me about it was that it forced an unnatural line on p2 rather than the line of good holds about 2m left of the bolts. Either way, do sol solet, it's way way better. 

Wow, you guys are fast. Now I'm not completely sure if we even did the correct line the whole way. Having another look in the guidebook later.

What I remember:

• P1
• P2, runout to the first bolt, optional stance after about 15m, 6c+/ 7a.  
• P3, easier climbing and a slightly chossy corner with spaced bolts (no fall zone) to a big tree ledge, 5c.
• P4, short overhang, additional stance but no ledge as described, then easier while traversing a bit to the right on small holds to an anchor (only anchor without chain) where the wall turns orange, 6a.
• P5, traverse to the right around the pillar/ bulge/ arête (loosing eye contact) to a smaller ledge with some vegetation. Stance here to avoid ropedrag and a ledge fall, 5c/ 6a.
• 5c - 6a to the top. Top anchor where the wall turns into a slab.

And yes, there is a two bolt and chain anchor at the right-hand end of the traverse. I led the traverse while my partner belayed from the optional stance in P4. That's why I had some ropedrag. (Now it makes sense.)

That sounds about right. I think we belayed on the small stance in the orange groove where sol solet passes through, which would reduce the drag a lot.

Although that is the one marked open the topo at the top of pitch 4.

I think Tobias is referring to a new belay at the right-hand end of this traverse. Although he does describe using the optional belay on pitch 4 and leading through, hence that would account for the extra rope drag on pitch 5. I very much doubt you could get to the top from the optional belay on pitch 4 leading through in a single pitch.

Alan

indeed. Distancewise, you probably could, but the drag would be crippling.