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Any advice on approach/rock/ mountaineering boot

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 Mattia 26 Apr 2018

Hello there,

This is yet another footwear post. Apologies if it has been covered already.

Looking to acquire a good all-rounder shoe or boot for: scrambles, non-winter mountains, approaches, via Ferraratas, ridge scrambles etc.

I currently use:

- a leather hiking boot for all year hiking (can't climb as the sole is too soft and slippery)

- a B3 which I use for winter stuff and happily wear for wet weather scrambles. Nice stiff sole (too heavy and warm for good weather mountain days, not great for long walk-ins)

- a rock shoe for rock climbs 

So I guess I should get a light approach shoe for good weather and in addition a boot for colder/ wetter days. As I don't wanna buy two more sets of shoes, what do you guys recommend as the ideal addition to my lineup? Do you have any specific model in mind that qualifies for the above, is durable and doesn't break the bank? 

Many thanks for any recommendations. Mattia 

 

 jezb1 26 Apr 2018
In reply to Mattia:

Adidas Terrex Solos, they're awesome.

 jamscoz 26 Apr 2018
In reply to Mattia:

Been living in a pair of La Sportiva TX4's for about a year. They will be replaced - looking like that will be a while yet

In reply to Mattia:

I bought a pair of La Sportiva TX4 to do the TMB last year. Immediately comfortable, with a sole firm enough to prevent soreness due to rough paths, and grippy, with a 'climbing zone' toe section, which came in handy for a little bit of scrambling. Never a blister.

Recommended for exactly your uses.

Only down side is the grippy sole, which means soft rubber, so they are now wearing thin. But I've worn them non-stop since I bought them...

I bought another pair from Go at the weekend for £90, having bought the first pair for £88 with DofE discount, but the rrp is now £125. There are other discounts out there; look around.

Oh yes: wetter days? The all-leather upper takes Nikwax suede treatment very well.

Post edited at 22:46
 andrew morris 26 Apr 2018
In reply to Mattia:

I've had the Millet Friction GTXs for a few years. They've served me well as an all-round outdoors shoe which even gets occasional use on actual approaches. Pros: good grip, durable, waterproof, never been too hot in summer. Potential cons: not the lightest I don't think, sole could do with a bit more stiffness for climbing.

 atrendall 26 Apr 2018
In reply to andrew morris:

Just posted an article on FB Group All Things Cuillin about choice of footwear for Cuillin Ridge and approach shoes versus boots;

https://www.facebook.com/groups/165143940728168/search/?query=footwear

I'm a big fan of approach shoes and use them pretty much all the time apart from winter conditions or heavy rain. Scrap fit me and have had loads of Quests, Cruxes, Zodiacs etc and can't fault them.

 Martin Bennett 26 Apr 2018
In reply to Mattia:

Hiya Mattia. What size are you? Blatant sales pitch - I am selling a pair of La Sportiva Trango S Evo light boots in a size 42.5. I've used them very little but they've been ideal for Summer and Winter walks (and Winter climbs with B1 crampons) in The Lakes and a little Alpine snow as well as a few Dolomite via ferrate. They're in very good condition.

Let me know if of interest. Cheers. Martin

PS otherwise I can endorse others recommendations for Scarpa Crux - exceedingly comfy as well as functional; beware though, get 'em tight as they grow alarmingly - have to use an extra footbed in mine now.

OP Mattia 27 Apr 2018

Thanks for the replies. I'll have a good look at all the shoes suggested over the next couple of days. Interesting to see that some favours the  'approach shoe' while others endorse light boots.

 

OP Mattia 27 Apr 2018
In reply to jamscoz:

Hello. Just googled the shoe you suggested. I can see there's a tx4 and also a taller tx4 mid gtx. I presume you're referring to the lighter of the two.

They look nice and technical, yet for fair weather use. At what point would you switch to a warmer/more waterproof boot, especially here in the UK?

 jamscoz 27 Apr 2018
In reply to Mattia:

Yeah the lighter blue one.  If I am going out on boggy, guaranteed-to-be-soaked mountain (walking) day I will wear Trango S Evo's.      

The TX4's have a decent rand which cope quite well with damp and ground water, a bit of Nikwax treatment on the upper has helped too.

 

 GrahamD 27 Apr 2018
In reply to Mattia:

Sole material is an interesting one.  I've never encountered any 'standard' Vibram walking boot soles that have been too slippery for climbing.  What is your expectation of them for climbing, exactly ?  Once it gets technical I find the main difficulty is that a boot that is roomy enough for comfortable walking is inevitably too roomy for precise climbing.

OP Mattia 27 Apr 2018
In reply to GrahamD:

Expectation from the boot/shoe? I'd say I'd choose climbabilty probably over comfort. My leather hiking boots are soft all-round, so they wouldn't hold any edge.

Would be nice to be able to do grade III scrambles and long days out in the shoes. 

Essentially I'm looking for a non winter shoe that sits between a rock shoe and a hiking boot.

Some of the suggestions from previous posters look great. Still undecided whether i should go for a light trailrunnwr style shoe or more of a waterproof boot (trango territory). 

 


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