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Pembroke crags for groups - Advice needed

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 dmurray 29 Apr 2018

A large group of friends will be heading to Pembroke next weekend (5-7th May), and while most will be walking & surfing, there are many competent indoor climbers who want to try real-rock, sea cliff climbing (can't blame them!)

I'm hoping to find a quiet crag for ~half a dozen people where I can set up single pitch top ropes (top or bottom ropes), with a decent ledge at the bottom which isn't tooooo affected by tides. 

Not too worried about abbing or lowering people down to the crag and we're staying near Stackpole but have cars.  

Any advice, suggestion or handy tips are most welcome! Thank you  

NB: please be nice, I know this isn't an ideal situation and I'm hoping the community's advice helps me avoid throwing a toprope down The Arrow at Govan Head or similar... 

 

 Luke90 29 Apr 2018
In reply to dmurray:

Saddle Head has a huge, non-tidal ledge which is a very pleasant place to be. Plenty of good placements at the top for anchors and lots of quality easy routes.

I think the guidebook does warn about loose rock so be wary of that. I've never found it too bad.

There's a scramble down to the ledge which people might be able to manage, depending on how confident they are.

Post edited at 10:55
1
 neuromancer 29 Apr 2018
In reply to dmurray:

The obvious ones are probably the best.

Huntsman's Leap. Mother Carey's Kitchen...

I'm joking.

Go to

Porthclais Area, Carreg-y-Barcud Area or Saddle Head

 GrahamD 29 Apr 2018
In reply to neuromancer:

None of which will be quiet on a bank holiday, obviously. Newton Head upper tier is good for a few hours entertainment but nowhere near the scale as those other venues.

In reply to dmurray:

As graham said, Newtown head upper is likely to be quiet and is very accessible although a bit small and limited. Saddle head is nicer and likely to be busy, but there are plenty of climbs to the south of the popular ones that are still nice and see little traffic, even on a bank holiday. Mainly s or hs. What grades are you interested in?

 Howard J 30 Apr 2018
In reply to dmurray:

Saddle Head is likely to be very busy on a bank holiday weekend and you may not make yourself very popular by setting up top ropes.

In reply to dmurray:

Hard to see beyond Saddle Head but you might not want to do three days there

 SuperLee1985 02 May 2018
In reply to dmurray:

No match for crag id:68 might be a good option, there is a relatively straightforward scramble down from the other side of the bay (easier than the saddle head one). The right hand ledges are non-tidal and you'll get more and more space as the tides go out. Was there for the August bank holiday a last year and it wasn't too busy. It's also only about 5 mins walk from Porth Clais which was already mentioned.

Probably better suited to top roping rather than bottom roping as there aren't that many options for anchors so some may well be off to the side on some routes.

 SuperLee1985 02 May 2018
In reply to dmurray:

Another option if you are coming from the east might be to stop off in the Gower on the way there/back. Generally much quieter with easy access to the top and bottom of most of the crags. No match for crag id:1031 or Three Cliffs Bay are good options. There's something quite magical about belaying on the beach at three cliffs.

OP dmurray 03 May 2018

Thank you everyone for your suggestions! I really appreciate all the advice.

Given the proximity to where we'll be staying and the larger size of the crag I think we will go to  Saddle Head

We will only be there for one day this weekend - will try and post here which day when its decided. 
I'll try to move topropes between routes frequently but if you want us to free up a route please just ask

Cheers everyone, and have a great weekend if you're getting out!
 

 


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