UKC

Softshell? Psiphon, Squall, Nano Air, Squamish?

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monsoon 01 May 2018

Hello

I am looking for a soft-shell jacket for cragging and climbing in the UK mountains during summer, late spring and early autumn-ish.

I'm considering:

Arcteryx Psiphon FL hoody. Don't know much about it but I usually get on with their gear.
ME Squall. 

Also considering Patagonia's Nano Air but I wonder if this is too warm for those sort of conditions. What about the light version? Seems to be 2 - a hybrid and a non-hybrid

Has anyone used Arcteryx's Squamish hoody too?

Any advice?

Thanks

 JayPee630 01 May 2018
In reply to monsoon:

Patagonia Nano Air too warm for that I think, I use mine for winter use only, albeit with a thick hooded baselayer underneath. The hybrid and light would be better choices IMO.

Arcteryx Squamish is just a windshirt type thing.

What about a Rab Vapour rise?

I also got a Montane Halogen Alpha that's a spring though to autumn thing like the Nano Air but lighter and is brilliant. They seem to have stopped making it though.

Post edited at 20:46
 tehmarks 01 May 2018
In reply to monsoon:

I have a Squall and I'm very happy with it - it gets used everywhere from Stanage to Chamonix with no complaints. I also have a Nano Air and wouldn't really consider it a softshell so much as an insulation layer. That also gets worn here there and everywhere, but only when the weather warrants it.

 nathan79 01 May 2018
In reply to monsoon:

Nanoair is too warm and to fragile for your wants. I'd go with the ME Squall.

I'd also look at the Montane Dyno Stretch.

Post edited at 22:26
 tehmarks 01 May 2018
In reply to nathan79:

> Nanoair is too warm and to fragile for your wants.

Warm sure, but fragile? Mine's been pretty indestructible so far.

 GarethSL 02 May 2018
In reply to monsoon:

Been using the Psiphon hoody for a couple of years for weekend cragging, mountain routes and alpine climbing. Also used it on a few milder days for ice as well as spring ski touring.

It's very nice, I love the pullover design and the fit for me is spot on. A couple of downsides are that you can't pull the sleeves up very far which can be a little tedious. Also the hood is made of very lightweight material so it flaps about in the slightest breeze, there is a securing system but its never been convenient. Pretty resistant material, stretchy and breathable.

The squamish is a superlight windshell, I use mine for trail running/ running in the rain or as an 'emergency' windshell for summer climbing. The fit is good for climbing and you can push the sleeves up. It packs nicely into its pocket so it takes up no space in the bag and can hang on a harness without getting too much in the way. Surprisingly durable too.

 LucaC 02 May 2018
In reply to monsoon:

I would discount a nano air; I would find it too warm for summer use.

I have both a zip up Psiphon and a Squarmish. The latter is too thin for everything apart from keeping a breeze off at the end of a hot summer day, but it does pack down really small and makes a great layer to clip to your harness/take just in case. The Psiphon is a much more versatile (for me) layer. It's actually quite weather proof and makes for a good climbing jacket when you actually need some real wind protection e.g most of the time.

 Adam Long 02 May 2018
In reply to monsoon:

I got a Psiphon cheap from Sport Pursuit and really rate it. It's very different to the Rab softshells I had back in the noughties - very thin stretchy fabric but decently wind and showerproof but not sweaty. The waist is a very slim fit to go under a harness and has foam in the hem to stop it riding up. Agree the hood foldaway needs a redesign though.

 nathan79 02 May 2018
In reply to tehmarks:

Mine is fairly bobbled from bag abrasion and there are a few pulls from velcro. That's just from 90% casual use over 18 months (and I've been treating it more delicately as times gone on out of necessity)

Still worth the £65 I paid for it, but I wouldn't buy another.

 galpinos 02 May 2018
In reply to tehmarks:

Have you worn it yet? If my even tickles rock, it ends up with a tear. I'm not exactly getting after it all the time and mine has plenty of holes in it. The outer fabric is very fragile imo.

Having said all that, I love the jacket and it is something I wear a lot (assuming it's cold enough)

 BnB 02 May 2018
In reply to nathan79:

> Mine is fairly bobbled from bag abrasion and there are a few pulls from velcro. That's just from 90% casual use over 18 months (and I've been treating it more delicately as times gone on out of necessity)

> Still worth the £65 I paid for it, but I wouldn't buy another.

We're obviously all different because I've thrutched and jammed mine up every sub HVS crack on grit and it's held up brilliantly. Sure it's bobbled. But I'm warm on top of Stanage after a lead. Not for hot days but great when there's a chill in the air on a windy edge. I alternate with the incredibly durable Squamish for warm days.

Psiphon is horrible. I sold mine and bought another nano air for hiking/pub. Good value at twice what you paid!

 galpinos 02 May 2018
In reply to monsoon:

I have a Squall (original so no stow pocket) and a Squamish.

The Squall gets used a lot, for everything. Cragging, multipitch, winter, alpine, skiing. Great fit, light, breathable, fab hood and very rugged.  I take this if I intend wearing a shell. I'm a large in ME

The Squamish is a light windshirt. I wear it for running or have it clipped on my harness when I want an emergency layer but probably won't wear it. I've got it in a medium which is a little trim but the large was massive.

monsoon 03 May 2018
In reply to monsoon:

Thanks for all the help


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