UKC

So me and a friend are off to the Peak District next weekend. We're looking to do some sport and bouldering but hoping to spend the weekend around the same area, preferably with both these activities in close proximity so that we can easily switch between the two throughout the day. Where springs to mind where both these activities can occur and with a range in grades? I have Peak Bouldering and the book i buy regarding sport will depend entirely on your answers, either being Eastern Grit, Western Grit or Peak Limestone.

Many thanks

No sports routes on grit, so really there is no choice. Peak Limestone is partly trad too but of sport climbing also.

There is zero sport climbing in Eastern or Western Grit. Peak Limestone covers trad and sport through the whole of the Peak - on Limestone of course.

Chris

Well that definitely narrows down the options!! Peak Limestone it is then. Anywhere in mind that sport and bouldering problems are in close proximity of one another?

Many thanks

Rubicon and Raven Tor spring to mind - if you think you are hard enough!

Chris

I take it you're pretty new to climbing? Or UK climbing at least?

There is a lot of good bouldering on gritstone, and places like Froggatt, Curbar, Gardoms, Baslow are all only about 10 minutes drive from Stoney Middleton (sport and trad) and Horseshoe Quarry (sport). If you have a car none of the places in Peak are that far apart.

The sport climbing in the Peak is a bit pants, but the grit bouldering is sublime so it’s definitely both ends of the spectrum. If you are determined to combine the two, then Stoney would prob suit. Some reasonable sport climbing on garage buttress, then soak in the history and the polish bouldering on Minus Ten wall. 

More sensibly, tick off some routes at Horseshoe, then take a fifteen minute drive to Stanage Plantation, or Burbage. You’ll regret not spending the whole day bouldering though.

if you want the ultimate experience, sack off the Peak and go bouldering at The Roaches

New to climbing in the North, from down Dorset way so Portland has all bases covered.

Suppose i'll just get Peak Limestone and see what's what when we get up there

Just surprised that anyone in the UK didn't know that gritstone isn't bolted!

The Peak isn't really the North, it's really just the midlands with pretensions.

That’s not technically true.. New Mills is home to bouldering and bolted grit..

More like subslime if it stays hot! I would have to disagree about the sport climbing in the peak, I think it's great, the tor, rubicon, moat, cornice, central buttress, cheedale, stoney, masson, the list goes on and on, add to that bouldering at the tor, Rubicon, beginners wall, stoney ( sort of!) , I can't imagine why anyone goes to kalymnos any more!

And then there is long tor, high tor, etc then walk up the road and go bouldering at crag s, the p, the c, 

I’d disagree with you on the peak sport venues. Chee Dale for a start Harper Hill, the quarries around Matlock, to name a few.

Your view on sport climbing in the peak may be diminished because you spend a lot of your time at indoor walls (as per your profile).

I heard that stoney west is better than kalymnos, is that true?

Yes, but the Greeks speak better English!!

Yes, living in the Peak does restrict the amount of time I can spend climbing outside

Aren't the bolts only on the bridge? I climbed there once 18 or 19 years ago! 

Yes, but it's still grit! A minor technicality is all.

I've climbed at both places and I think Stoney West is somewhat underrated. The big plus point is that for most Brits it's far cheaper and quicker to get to. But it's true Kalymnos does have more routes. They are longer, the rock quality and the climbing is better, the scenery is beautiful and the weather is better. So both places have their pros and cons.