UKC

In this session, Ollie Torr explains how a bouldering session can be used to train different things, such as strength and strength endurance.

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In reply to UKC Articles:

I am confused by the terminology here (20 boulders in 20 minutes as strength endurance and 15 harder boulder problems in 40 minutes as strength). Aren't they both about power rather than strength? And aren't they both power endurance, just with the former more focused on endurance and the latter more focused on power?

In reply to UKC Articles:

Weird. Every time I post an edit it disappears. What I meant to write was:

I am confused by the terminology here (20 boulders in 20 minutes as strength endurance and 15 harder boulder problems in 40 minutes strength). Aren't they both about power rather than strength? And aren't they both power endurance, just with the former more focused on endurance and the latter more focused on power?

In reply to ericinbristol:

You're asking two very different questions? People sometimes use the term strength endurance instead of power endurance. Either way, both relate to sustaining a slightly sub-maximal output and 20 in 20 will hit that perfectly as you'll be operating a distinct level down from your max flash level for 20 mins with no rests. In other words, you'll be gassed!

Meanwhile, 15 in 40 is more strength and power based as you'll probably be climbing at around your flash level or just below it.

I'm not sure of exactly how it is defined for climbing, but for me, if I talk about strength, I'm thinking about statically holding holds or a position, whereas power is about movement, particularly explosive movement to reach the next hold. If I can't generate enough momentum to reach the next hold I'm lacking power, if I can reach it but can't hold it then strength is my weakness.

In reply to danm:

That's basically how I understand it - strength as static, power as dynamic.  'If I can't generate enough momentum to reach the next hold I'm lacking power, if I can reach it but can't hold it then strength is my weakness' is a good way of putting it. So these look like power not strength drills (whether or not they are power endurance)