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NEWS: Speed intégrale, 9a, by Babsi Zangerl

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 UKC News 21 May 2018
Babsi Zangerl on Speed Intégrale, 9a, Voralpsee, Switzerland, 5 kbBarbara Zangerl has repeated Cédric Lachat's Speed Integrale, 9a, at Voralpsee, Switzerland. This was Babsi's first of the grade.

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 Toerag 21 May 2018
In reply to UKC News:

Surely if Speed was given 8c+ in '95 and would be called 9a if it were elsewhere, then all the 9as need downgrading?

2
 Phil79 21 May 2018
In reply to Toerag:

Or the 9as at that crag have climbed more recently, and been graded accordingly?

 kuweso 24 May 2018
In reply to UKC News:

I'm not so surprised, that Beat's route has got a late upgrade. In those times people like Beat or Manolo (Zanolla) where kind of silent heroes, not so mediate, not so keen on assigning new milestones, just improving daily their own impressive skills. No reason for degrading other routes. I think with an increasing number of high end climbs there is need of more degrees to avoid incoherent crowds in certain ranges. The old discussion about Hubble and Action Directe was quite simple: Two routes, apparently of different characteristics, probably of different difficulties - two at the same degree or one degree for each. But what to do with 150 routes of 9a+ or more? Are they really well specified in a range from 9a+ to 9b+ (and 9c without confirmation)? And further on, when all these amazing 13 to 15 old rookies will reach their twenties, doing futurist FAs in factory style. Will we continue the antiinflacionist style of admitting only to the very best of all to move on carefully the scale for another 6th part of the French grading? Just a question?

 kuweso 24 May 2018
In reply to UKC News:

Sorry Babsi, I first had to deliver another obsessive idea. Congrats! You are fantastic!

 Michael Gordon 24 May 2018
In reply to Toerag:

> Surely if Speed was given 8c+ in '95 and would be called 9a if it were elsewhere, then all the 9as need downgrading?

As a statement that doesn't make any sense. If something "would be 9a anywhere else" then that sounds as though it should be that grade. Of course, that's just one guy's opinion of the original route, but it seems likely that doing the extension at least would get one the grade tick.

 zv 24 May 2018
In reply to UKC News:

Mega impreasive!

Also, surely, first 9a ascent after a night shift?

 


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