UKC

Fairly new to climbing and the guide book has so many locations having trouble deciding where to go!

Looking for suggestions for a big day out in north wales. Ideally a long alpine style multi pitch/ link ups up to around VS. Long walk in and somewhere to bivi would be ideal with a scramble thrown in.

In reply to Aaron91:

I'd suggest a link up of some variation but if you are fairly new to climbing it really depends on how quickly you can go. I'd definitely aim a little lower, maybe VD to see how you go? I consider myself relatively experienced but if I want to cover lots of ground I will lower grades dramatically! Just depends how much you want to get done in one day. 

I would have a go at something on Tryfan E face and see how long it takes you. You have loads of options from the summit there. Or Idwal slabs for that matter. 

Some of my favourites, although all quite long- Lliwedd N face followed by the Snowdon horseshoe. Or the Carneddau round from Ogwen dropping down to do Amphitheatre buttress on the way. Big link ups round Glyders, E face Tryfan- both Cneifon ridges, then down to something else on Glyder Fach followed by Bristly Ridge and a traverse of Tryfan to finish. Or one of the classic Idwal slab link ups finishing on Glyder Fawr. 

In reply to Aaron91:

By far the best crag (for me) at that grade is Cloggy, but for something with less loose rock, generally better gear and more often dry Dinas Mot, Glyder Fach and the Idwal Slab areas have loads of brilliant mid grade climbs, not the longest but mostly high quality.

In reply to Aaron91:

Good advice above by Cheese Monkey. The Idwal Slabs and continuations finishing on Glyder Fawr is the obvious suggestion with a choice of routes at V Diff or Severe. Do watch out for poorly protected sandbags on Glyder Fawr at the end  of a long day. UKC logbook comments may be worth looking at if you want to avoid an epic.

In reply to Aaron91:

Some good suggestions above; loads of lower grade options on Tryfan/Idwal.

Another idea is Main Wall on Cyrn Las followed by Gambit Climb on Clogwyn y Ddysgl, then along the ridge to Crib Goch and down the north ridge.

In reply to Aaron91:

For a big multi-pitch day out you can't do better than Lliwedd N Face.

For starters, you have the long walk-in approach.  Avoid the car park and save yourself a tenner.  Instead try the full alpine walk-in from the Pen Y Gwyrd (?).  If you are carrying climbing gear + what you need for an overnight bivi you will fully enjoy this ....

Some will recommend Avalanche Route / Red Wall as the classic of the crag.  There's 10 pitches and it is complex route finding in places with a couple of VS moves.  

Better is Slanting Buttress Ridge route.  It's a lower grade but it has it all: a wall, a boot crack, an 'a cheval' ridge, a final loose chimney where you get dive bombed by swooping ravens as you approach the summit of the peak.  Once you've done that try Avalanche - or the Gribin scramble from Glas Lyn up to the Bwlch y Saethau where according to legend King Arthur received the mortal blow.

That should tick your boxes!  Have a good day!

 

 

 

In reply to Rog Wilko:

Yep, I'd agree with this - an Idwal linkup would be particularly good for a relative beginner because you've got several points where you can take harder options if you're going well or cut it short if you're taking longer than expected. Note that you've got the further option of carrying on up Seniors Ridge and / or traversing into Cwm Cneifion for the Cneifion Arete if you want something a bit quicker and easier than the Glyder Fawr routes that will still get you to the top via some scrambling.

In reply to Ratfeeder:

You could add  Reades Route on Crib Goch

In reply to Hat Dude:

Indeed you could. Well worth doing too, with a scary stride off a pinnacle if I remember rightly.

In reply to Rog Wilko:

Was thinking something like this and finishing up greys arete. Had a similar worry about getting to the end of the day and struggling up the continuation wall.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions. Gave me lots to go away with and make a plan

In reply to Aaron91:

Have a read of https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/snowdonia_in_chains-435

It's got a few good suggestions, although I'm biased...

In reply to Aaron91:

Another thumbs up for Cwn Las accessed via Lanberis pass. Some bivi up at the tarn below the walls of Crib Goch.

In reply to Aaron91:

Left field reply; Atlantic slabs, start on red slab and then move to the main event.

Avalanche/Red Wall/Longlands is brilliant, Soloed it years ago, with the whole crag to myself. So happy to get up it, singing out loud on the last (and best) pitch, then ran round the Horseshoe high as a kite.

In reply to Aaron91:

Re your OP, 'fairly new to climbing' (and no harm in that!), please read the two threads on Grey Arete (one was a few months ago) before you go on it.

Mick

In reply to Pay Attention:

Plus 1. I've never fully understood why this is such a neglected crag, although probably it's rather dark north facing aspect doesn't do it any favours. As you say it's got some great long climbs on it, and route finding gives it a real mountain feel. 

However because route finding can be a challenge maybe it's not so ideal for a beginner, I was very inexperienced myself when my mate and I climbed Avalanche route in the early 1960s and had quite a route finding adventure.

Another great multi pitch is Amphitheatre Buttress on Craig yr Ysfa, Carnedd Llewelyn, again with a long walk in.  If you climb fast, and are not held up by slower parties, you would have time on a long summer day to do Great Gully, the other easy Classic here.