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Lake District Venue Advice

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 kermit_uk 23 May 2018

Just looking for a little advice.

 

Probably going to head to the lakes for 3 days over the bank holiday. Never climbed there before, looking for places with easyish multi pitch stuff for nice adventurous days out. Probably HS to HVS roughly. Will be camping so ideally a couple of crags from one campsite. 

 

Will have a proper read through the guide but can't beat experience.

 

Cheers all

 spenser 23 May 2018
In reply to kermit_uk:

Langdale, Upper White Ghyll, Gimmer and Pavey Ark are all excellent.

Borrowdale/ Buttermere, Eagle Crag, High Crag, Pillar Rock (long walk in, bikes apparently make it easier), sergeant's crag slabs (not multipitch but just the dodog danglies!) are all good at that grade range.

 John Kelly 23 May 2018
In reply to kermit_uk:

Langdale

gimmer, bowfell butress, pavey, white ghyll- adventurous

Raven, scout, raven (walthwaite) - roadside

All great crags within walking distance of both langdale campsites and loads of 3 star classics HS to HVS

(there is a bus up and down valley every hour)

black crag/long crag also options

 

 Si dH 23 May 2018
In reply to kermit_uk:

I'm up there with family, should meet up for a drink if you are nearby.

Scafell is really amazing if you can do a big walk-in.  Pillar also: not quite as refined (more likely to be dirty and have some loose holds than Scafell) but feels really adventurous. These are really memorable places. You could camp most of the way from the car to the crag ithink, if you choose your spot carefully. Having said that, I once bivvied at Mickledore only for it tonrain at 6am

If you need short walkins then there is lots of good stuff in Borrowdale, i would recommend Black Crag, the routes I've done there (hs/vs/hvs/e1) were all really good. Also Goat Crag for something a bit different, although iveIonlI' done Praying Mantis so I'm not sure how much easier stuff there is.

Edit: not done so much in Landgale but didnt rate White Ghyll as highly; maybe we had a bad day. Gimmer is good and Pavey looks great but Ive not done any routes there.

Post edited at 06:33
 Mark Eddy 23 May 2018
In reply to kermit_uk:

Langdale, Borrowdale, Buttermere all great suggestions. Add Great Gable to the mix too, some excellent routes around the Napes & Tophet at the grades you're after.

We climbed Tophet Wall recently, it's a brilliant route: http://www.mountain-journeys.co.uk/blog/tophet-wall-great-gable

 danm 23 May 2018
In reply to kermit_uk:

Some good ideas here already. Langdale can get horribly busy, but for good reason, for a first visit it's hard to beat. Borrowdale is better for valley cragging but if it's accessible mountain cragging Langdale wins hands down.

Some other options - Dow Crag by Coniston. Easily accessible for a foray from Langdale as well, 30 mins drive. Esk Buttress - also doable by driving past Blea Tarn and over Wrynose to park at Cockley Beck. The walk over Mossdale is boggy but worth it as the crag is amazing. A wild camp at Sampson Stones followed by routes on Esk would be my pick for a proper Lakes experience for a newbie to the area.

 C Witter 23 May 2018
In reply to kermit_uk:

Pick a valley: Wasdale, Borrowdale, Langdale, Eskdale, or perhaps Buttermere.

Langdale and Borrowdale are busiest - and both have a mix of roadside and mountain crags.

Wasdale requires longer walk-ins, but grand historically important crags.

Eskdale is lovely and quieter - and you can also get easily over to the Duddon.

Buttermere is a bit quieter than Borrowdale - but you can easily move from one to the other and climb in both valleys.

From Borrowdale you can easily get to Langstrath (beautiful, quiet valley with good climbing) or over to Honister (Grey Crag commands fantastic views and the rock is great), and even stop in St. John's in the Vale on your way back to the M6.

 

 


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