UKC

Hi all,

I'm going to Majorca in august and fancy having a climb while im out there. Any recommendations as to were to go first. Ive had a look in some guide books (will invest in one before i go) but having never climbed sport before i was just wondering best area to head to. Im also thinking of doing some deep water soloing while there so recommendations for best place for that to. I'll be staying in cala d'Or.

Thanking in advance

Sally x

I've been to Cala Magraner for Sport and Santanyi for DWS and would recommend them both for a novice. Santanyi has a ladder to exit from!

Tom 

As well as the DWS at Santanyi there is also a very good crag with very easy access and a good range of grades. Only problem is it faces south so it will be baking!

Santanyi (Tijuana)

Just a general note to make sure if you do DWS you do it with other people. Agree with other posters about best places for starting out.

yep. Don't DW solo alone. and have your exit & alternate exit strategy ready...

Cala Magraner If you're on that side. . . . but only mad dogs would climb in the direct sun in August (and yes I have).

Hi

If you staying In Cala D'Or, then Cala Magraner is definitely the closest and best for a relative novice. It will be super hot but Cala Magraner is a beautiful spot and it is at the sea so you can climb then swim within seconds of taking your harness off. Enjoy it! It's a lovely spot and indeed Mallorca is a lovely island. 

Cheers

Christy

Thank you everyone. X

We tried Cala Magraner but despite the fantastic location and the beach, didn't really gel with the climbing there.  Most of the good routes are mid to high end (6a and above) and the lower grade routes there were not amazing. 

We much preferred Sa Mola de Felantix, an inland crag up on the hillside behind the old bodega at the edge of Felantix.  Fantastic choice of good quality, well bolted routes between 4b and 6c.  The excellent Papallona, a three star 5c is one of the loveliest and most interesting sport routes I've climbed anywhere.  Also unlike Cala Magraner, the walk in is only 5 mins from the car and there are trees at the base of the crag so you will be out of the midday sun whilst belaying.  Once you've finished climbing you can explore the old abandoned bodega and it's huge hall of wine vats.