UKC

Goblin Combe - Topo for newer climbs?

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 Bobling 30 May 2018

Does anyone have any more up to date info on routes at  Goblin Combe which are not in the old Avon Guide?  Particularly as to the location of Magic Rock, The Carrock and Cleeve Combe?  Cheers.

 Rob Morgan 30 May 2018
In reply to Bobling:

There is a new guide book in the making. Apparently it should be released in June.

OP Bobling 30 May 2018
In reply to Bobling:

Thanks Rob.  I am aware that there is a new guidebook coming out but in the meantime...any more detailed info anyone?  These routes have been climbed for a few years now - there must be some way to identify them?

 Paz 30 May 2018
In reply to Bobling:

Read a map Bobling!   I'm guessing this is Cleeve Combe https://www.bing.com/maps?osid=df05c8e1-dc46-496a-a63b-fab1c8863ace&cp=...

OP Bobling 31 May 2018
In reply to Paz:

Thanks!  That's one, now for Magic Rock and the Carrock ;  ).  Guess I should just wait for the new guide!

 Rob Morgan 31 May 2018
In reply to Bobling:

Magic Rock is apparently 20m right of Pearl (VD) on the Obelisk (which is detailed in the Avon 2004 guide).

Description for the Saving Brian's Privates (S 4a) reads:

20m right of Pearl is a recently cleaned, slabby rib. In the front of the rib are two cracks, some 2m apart. Start under the left-hand, narrower crack and make tricky layback/bridging moves to reach a tree. Continue more easily to a smaller tree and a platform. Pull up rightwards onto the rib, and finish up Your Very Good Elf.

 Paz 31 May 2018
In reply to Bobling:

You're welcome. 

It sounds like the unknown intrepid N Hollingworth discovered it in 2004, and then Martin did the plumb line the following year.  Then Mark et al cleaned up and developed he whole cliff in 2014. 

It sounds like the crag was last cleaned 4 years ago and hasn't really improved since then, so especially from what Felix said, and the fact the ticks will be out there until the back end of this year, and will get you if you go bashing into the undergrowth looking for esoterica, it's all yours mate!  Shake, Rattle and Roll (VS 4c)

Hopefully the new guide will improve things.

https://cdn.ukc2.com/i/258552.jpg

I think you can find The Carrock from this mistaken new route claim:

https://www.climbers-club.co.uk/information-summary-list/new-routes-archive...

Submitted by : Nigel Barry < < Comment by Mark Davies
Area : Avon & Cheddar
Crag : Goblin Combe, Airport Approach Buttress
Date of ascent : 08/06/2013
Route name : We have got tickets to ride
Length/grade/stars : 18m, VS 4b, one star
Climbers : Tracey Rodford, Su Paton, Nigel Barry
Start location:
On the buttress marked as "cliff dangerous" on the AWT reserve circular path. The shortest approach is via the Fountain Sawmill. It is possible to scramble down either side of the buttress.

Pitch descriptions:
There are 3 PR’s on the bulging central section of the buttress. Martin Crocker routes? Start below the groove on the RHS of the butress. Make a hard mantleshelf onto a small ledge, before climbing a finger flake to a ledge. Pull over the bulge and finish rightwards up the nice slab to the yew tree. Fixed rope recommended to pull over the top since there are loose blocks jammed in the exposed tree routes. An inferior LH finish has alos been climbed, but exits onto a scree ledge.

Additional info:
Led on-sight after a light brushing.

<
This is not a new route, The buttress is known as The Carrock and the route in question is called ‘Carl‘ originally graded Severe (but more like HS 4b) climbed in the 70’s by Keith Williams. details in the 1981 Cheddar supplement.


 

 d_b 31 May 2018
In reply to Paz:

I can confirm that the ticks were certainly active 2 weeks ago.

OP Bobling 31 May 2018
In reply to Bobling:

Thanks all looks like we have ticked all the lost buttresses between us. 


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