UKC

I'm looking at buying a new triple-rated rope to replace a tired Beal Joker. Its main purpose will be multi-pitch/alpine sport and trad, with probably roughly equal amounts of use as a half and as a single.

I really liked the handling and versatility of the Joker but have not been particularly impressed with its durability - it became soft and fluffy, and sheds a lot of fibres from the sheath, sooner than I would have hoped. I did subject it to fairly rigorous abuse climbing in very sandy places though, so it could be I'm expecting too much.

I've had some use of a couple of DMM Crux and not been impressed at all - the sheath seems far too  easily prone to scuffing.

I'm tempted to go super light with a Mammut Serenity or even Beal Opera, though I'm not sure if 8.5-8.7mm is actually a bit too skinny, in terms of durability, belayer holding short falls when in use as a single, potential compatibility with a Grigri...and just reassurance in scary places!

So I'm looking for any opinions really, on the relative merits of what's on offer out there.

Thanks.

I've got the Mammut Serenity, 8.7, 70m, which I use for sport and winter climbing. It's a great handling rope, but expensive....not sure it is much better than the Decathlon equivalent,  which is slightly thicker but less than half the price. The Serenity is  1 kg lighter on 70m, my GF is very small and struggles with a heavy sack, so it was worth it for her.

To be honest, I prefer twin ropes for Trad, but it's great for sport and winter. Obviously specs at Decathlon may have changed now...

http://www.edelweiss-ropes.com/performance-9-2mm-supereverdry.html?___store...

I have the Edelweiss rope linked to above, and have nothing bad to say about it. Soft, handles well, etc. It's survived a few years of abuse on grit and in the Alps with no noticeable wear or deterioration. The dry treatment has worn away, but I wouldn't expect any different.

I'd very happily replace it with another.

We have a sterling nano which has been great. 

I have a mammut serenity 8.7 which has been good so far.  Its first alpine trip is due in august so i can't give a real verdict yet.

It was expensive enough that I am almost afraid to use it.  The temptation to make do with a half rope is strong.

I've just got my hands on an 80m Edelrid Canary Pro Dry 8.6 - thus far it seems excellent and handles much better than I expected in various belay devices. The sheath is 45% and has a very sturdy feel to it, unlike the 9mm Beal I have which felt soft right from the start and rubs easily. Weight wise it's stunning and drag is minimal. Pricey though! 

Thirding the Edelweiss for durability and feeling reassuring.

I've had the Decathlon 8.9mm diam. one for almost 2 years now and it's the best rope I've had in 20+ years climbing.

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/edge-89-mm-x-100-m-id_8360082.html

I got the 100m version as it was so cheap (£119 when I got mine) I could afford to chop it several times. So far however, despite lots of use domestically and on trips, plenty of falls and working / dogging sessions, I've not yet needed to chop it once. I know some reviews suggest their ropes have worn badly, so I might just have been very lucky, but for me, it's performed superbly.

I also really like the way it handles, for both belaying and clipping. I also have a Beal Joker which has worn very badly and which I find too soft to clip the way I like. The Simond is perfect.