UKC

Finally got through the 4 big bags of WC loose chalk that I bought about 5 years ago and need to get some more.

I was just wondering does the brand of chalk actually make any difference? There seems to be all these fancy brands about these days (e.g. friction labs) but I find it hard to belive they are anything more than a marketing gimmick.

Is there any noticeable difference between the mainstream brands (e.g. DMM, WC, metolious etc) or should I just go for whatever I can find cheapest?

Cheers

Lee

I've tried Mammut, Metolius and now a big bag of Camp chalk and I'll be going back to Mammut for sure, didn't like the others, not as absorbing. Might be placebo though, who knows.

There is definitely a big difference depending on what brand chalk you use.

A few years ago I experimented with my own formula / mix. I had intended to approach some of the 'climbing chalk companies' to see if they were interested in taking on my idea but never got round to it, so my secret formula will have to remain a secret....

There's an actual difference between liquid chalk and the others.  

There's a potential for a good placebo boost if you can make yourself believe in one of the expensive 'magic' chalks.  Use the 'special sending chalk' as part of the ritual to prepare for a competition or a project.

makes no difference, its all in your mind, try using no chalk.

It doesn't exactly answer your question but there was an interesting article about chalk in a recent edition of Climbing magazine.  https://www.climbing.com/gear/the-hidden-environmental-cost-of-climbing-cha...

Using no chalk ???? would you still take a chalk bag and dip but with no chalk in it ????

He obviously means use pof instead. It's much better than chalk!

Friction labs chalk has slightly better performance and is worth paying the extra if expense is no object or you value marginal gains.  

I don't know about specific brands of chalk. I think the more expensive ones have generally spent more on marketing but I couldn't say for sure. There's no real objective test I'm aware of.

For those who doubt the enchanced friction from applying chalk, try pulling some hairs out or play a stringed instrument, then apply chalk. The difference in grip is immense (though that's not always a good thing). That's not to say that you should plaster holds an inch deep because you're eventually losing contact with the rock and you make the whole exercise of applying chalk pointless.

Chalk use has a powerful placebo effect, you'd have to conduct a double blind trial to find out if the expensive stuff is "really" better. 

(I put "really" in inverted commas because the placebo effect is a real effect - people also find expensive, heavily marketed over the counter painkillers more effective than their generic equivalents.  Just because it isn't "real" doesn't mean it isn't real.)

Some of the brands have added chemicals to inhibit moisture and these tend to have an adverse affect on my skin so I would say the brand definitely makes a difference in that regard but not so sure about the friction properties.

Al

To me chalk is chalk but I did find that Metolius' super chalk always seemed to end up quite clumpy in the chalk bag and lost all of its 'airy' powder feel, which then felt like it didn't coat fingers or dry as well as it should. 

Rob did a review of friction labs:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/climbing/accessories/friction_labs_chalk-76...

I have a few times. Noticeable difference.

No chalk bag, just an old tea towel to clean my boots and dry my hands.

that'll be the placebo effect.

If your skin can take it I think the best approach is to use liquid chalk at the start of the session then top up with normal chalk as necessary.  I think a lot of chalking up is done when your palm or finger webs feel sweaty even though the bit of fingers you use to hold the rock are dry. Liquid chalk stops this sweaty feeling.

It's called the sweaty hands effect. Or the slightly damp lichen gritstone effect.

Anyway, even if I accept it is placebo for argument, isn't placebo proven to have an effect?

I have a colleague that swears by pof for fat slappers.... he doesn't climb, and I am confused.

I've tried a few brands but cannot point to any noticeable differences assuming you are using climbing chalk to begin with.