UKC

I've seen that back in 2005 there was a terrible accident and then again in 2010 there looks to have been another rock fall. Can't find anything after that, but does anybody know if it still has loose rocks?

Thanks 

From the FRCC website

"There is a Falcon’s nest with unfledged  young near the belay at the top of pitch 4. Please avoid the route/belay until 15th July to allow the young to leave the nest."

Looking at the logbooks on here it still gets done quite a bit, but take care with the rock and ants.

I do not like dissing crags, but TBH there are a lot better places to go.

Cant find this route in the logbooks?

www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=4473

Just checked, for some reason it cant find under the route name, I was lucky in that I typed in the crag name. This works fine.

I climbed it 3 years ago, lovely climb rock completely solid. We did the proper version without the Kaleidoscope finish if I remember correctly. 

After all  this heat the ants will be unbearable. They were dreadful when I did this yonks ago!

As the writer of the current Gowder section of the Borrowdale guide I would advise you that the rock on the original finish (the ledges you cross and parts of the final chimney) is suspect and blocky - that is why the decision was made to describe the route finishing up Kaleidoscope. As with all climbing make your own judgement and be it on your own head, in this case it may well be! The description of the original finish can be found in earlier Borrowdale guides or on the FRCC Website in the Borrowdale Archive.

As for the ants, they add to the character of the route but be careful where you sit.

Brilliant thanks all, great advice.

Julian

Yeah that ledge you cross to the final original chimney is pretty blocky - it's a shame as the final chimney is very characterful.

I thought the bad rock was in the upper half of the groove pitch under where the finishes split. Car sized blocks balanced on fist sized lumps of rock. I didn't put any gear in, didn't dare!

But it's still a great route so.....

By the sound of the loose rock you mention you have gone slightly right at about half height on the groove, done it myself that way many times. Last time I remember trying to make myself weightless as a passed the precarious mega blocks. Following the main groove all the way (it kinks slightly left at half height), keeps you out of the horror terrain.

Yeah that all sounds very familiar! It was fun, now!