UKC

Advice wanted for mountaineering /multipitch climbingrucksack

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 chmckay 29 Jun 2018

Hi folks, I'm in the market for a new rucksack. The main purpose of the rucksack is for approaching and climbing multipitch climbs. I currently use a deuter guide 35+ but find that it's a bit heavy and cumbersome. Something roughly the same size would be ideal. What do people currently use or what would you recommend?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Craig 

 whenry 29 Jun 2018
In reply to chmckay:

I've got a Montane Medusa 32 that I find comfortable and quite light - I've had it about six years and I'd definitely recommend it. Works well when wearing a helmet too, which I've found a problem with some other bags.

 nniff 29 Jun 2018
In reply to chmckay:

A bit smaller, but for rock climbing, and if you're going to be carrying it up a route, this is a no-brainer https://www.decathlon.co.uk/cliff-20-ii-backpack-blue-id_8302352.html

Rope, helmet and shoes on the outside, rack shared - everything else for a day out inside.  For £15 how wrong can it be?

Weighs next to nothing

 

As an everyday cragging rucksack, it's not really the thing though.  There are more substantial Decathlon/Simond rucksacks at a fraction of mainstream brands. Alternatively, if you want lightweight and minimalist look at Blue Ice Warthogs or an Aiguille Alpine Cirrus.  If the latter, you can choose your colour and any other bits and pieces you want on it - and it's British made.  Best to phone AA rather than email them

 maxsmith 29 Jun 2018
In reply to chmckay:

Osprey Talon 33 with all the useless bells and whistles cut off.

 spenser 29 Jun 2018
In reply to maxsmith:

Absolutely not, the Talon isn't designed for carrying much weight and felt horrible when I climbed with it a few weeks ago. Also pretty poor quality in my view, mine lasted 2 years before various bits of it started to fall apart.

Deuter guide is heavy, however climbs ok with the hip pad removed. I've recently aquired one of the zip top Macpac Pursuit rucksacks which I have modified to make it work with a hydration bladder which seems to be working pretty well so far.

1
 Luke90 29 Jun 2018
In reply to chmckay:

I recently bought an Osprey Mutant 28 for exactly that purpose. I think it's perfect for scrambling and multipitch days. You can fit a lot in it, especially if you pack carefully and utilise the rope strap and/or helmet holder on top and it copes well with heavy loads. When you don't need to carry as much, it easily compresses down really tight whilst retaining a good shape and the hip belt clips away quickly around the back for climbing.

I've comfortably carried double 50m ropes, a decent trad rack, harness, shoes, helmet, drink, food and some small layers. But when we got to the climbing it compressed down well and stayed out of the way. Basically, it's really versatile.

1
 maxsmith 29 Jun 2018
In reply to spenser:

Works fine for me thanks, with hip belt/mobile phone holder etc cut off it weighs under 600g. Deuter guide too heavy for OP (see his original post).

mantelself 29 Jun 2018
In reply to Luke90:

I have the 35 and I use it with the lid off when I need something about that big for climbing. I am on my second one now as I find it so comfy I use it for short backpacking trips even though it isn't the lightest that is available.

 Tricadam 29 Jun 2018
In reply to chmckay:

I've got the old Patagonia Ascensionist 25 and 35 litre sacks. I tend to use the former in summer and the latter in winter. Both give a very comfortable carry (for me anyway) compared to other "fast and light" packs. They've changed the design since then though and now do a 30 litre model. That might actually be ideal for you for summer multipitch. Or you could see if you can pick up one of the older ones second-hand. An advantage of the old 35 is that it has a nicely padded hip-belt (with the padded bits being removable if you want). The 35 also has a lightweight frame which is good if you've got a heavy load, and is removable if you don't. I've actually found that I don't need this, provided I pack my winter bag reasonably carefully. The pack can then be folded in half and shoved inside your partner's sack for the second to carry, if you're on something a bit harder.

 Pawthos 29 Jun 2018
In reply to chmckay:

I love my Mountain Equipment Scrambler 30, which continues to contain all my crap quite admirably on this it’s third trip to the Alps. I wore it comfortably for around 6 hours yesterday with all of the usual kit above and 2 litres of water. It tends to get poor reviews for its very minimalist waist strap, and sewn on lid (difficult to use the pocket when carrying a rope). Some reviews say it isn’t waterproof- I disagree, mine has been perfect.

OP chmckay 30 Jun 2018
In reply to chmckay:

Thanks for all the replies, still torn but will go and have a try of some of the ones mentioned. Thanks again

 Mark Haward 01 Jul 2018
In reply to chmckay:

I've also found the ascensionist a great multi pitch pack. Usually use the 25 for alpine rock. At first I thought it wouldn't be robust enough but it has stood the test so far...

 jezb1 01 Jul 2018
In reply to chmckay:

Another vote for the Ascentionist!

Surprised no ones mentioned the Arc’teryx Cierzo though, people usually rave about them but I’ve not used them.

 Jamie Langler 01 Jul 2018

Black Diamond Speed 30, shoulder straps are designed with climbing in mind as they move independently when arms are above the head.  acceptable size for mountaineering, and striped lid and waist belt for multi-pitch climbing.  If I was just doing multi-pitch I might opt for the 22L variant instead.

 

1
 TobyA 01 Jul 2018
In reply to chmckay:

I'm reviewing the new Lowe Aeon 27 for UKC currently https://lowealpine.com/uk/infinite-possibilities Lowe flog it as good for everything and it sort of is. I took it up the Gambit Climb on Clogwyn y Dysgyl a few weeks back and it work well there. I have made a few scuffs on it though where I put a bit of gorrila tape on them on the inside to make sure it don't get worse - but I think that is a potential issue with all lightish nylon packs.

For a number of years I've used the 12 quid when I bought one Simond/Decathlon cliff, and before that an REI flash https://www.rei.com/product/892074/rei-co-op-flash-18-pack both very cheap and very light. You have to pack them sensibly and obviously you end up with ropes and helmets strapped to the outside, but once you are climbing they are the best sort of packs even better than a light small more 'normal' day pack like the Aeon. But the Aeon is more comfy when stuffed full of gear and ropes.

 Doghouse 01 Jul 2018
In reply to TobyA:

Not sure if the "27" in the Aeon 27 refers to its capacity ie 27 litres but if so it's no way near that size. 

 pff 01 Jul 2018
In reply to TobyA:

I'm just after having serious problems with all the straps on my Lowe Alpine attack sack, all the webbing became so brittle I could tear the shoulder and waist webbing with my fingers. I put a video on VIMEO showing it. Customer service with them was fairly inept tba. Wouldn't go to Lowe Alpine again.

Post edited at 21:50
 TobyA 01 Jul 2018
In reply to Doghouse:

> Not sure if the "27" in the Aeon 27 refers to its capacity ie 27 litres but if so it's no way near that size. 

It definitely says it's 27 litres https://lowealpine.com/uk/aeon-27/ Have you got one? Do you think its more or less than that? I don't think pack volume is a super precise science, but I would have guessed at between 25 and 30 litres.

 TobyA 01 Jul 2018
In reply to pff:

Found the video. That's really awful, although I've never seen that before on any pack I've used, including various Lowe ones, going back to about 1990. One thought - where and when did you buy the pack?

 pff 02 Jul 2018
In reply to TobyA: I bought it here in Ireland 6 years ago in an outdoors store (so from new) when I was starting my mountain skills training.   )) Lowe Alpine said I should have been rinsing the straps, they couldn't find any chemical or other reason for the brittleness. Even the compression straps were after becoming brittle )

Post edited at 01:03
 Doghouse 02 Jul 2018
In reply to TobyA:

Definitely much smaller .

 Jellington 04 Jul 2018
In reply to chmckay:

I've got a Millet Trilogy 35. It's a bit on the expensive side but if you're willing to spend some more it's really worth the money. It's waterproof, durable and weighs less than a kilo when empty. Used it in the Alps last summer and multipitch climbing in the Hautes Alps in France last month. Also, have a look at the mountain hardwear scrambler 30, I've seen it and used it and it's also a nice, comfortable, simple pack that's also a lot cheaper. 

 

 Jim Walton 04 Jul 2018
In reply to chmckay:

I love my Patagonia Ascentionist.  Great pack

In reply to TobyA:

If you're after a small pack, the Simond 22l is okay, for £18:

https://www.simond.com/mountaineering-backpack-22-id_8360596


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