UKC

Anyone know what conditions on this are like?

Look like some heavy snow due in the coming days.

Heading to Cham next week and wanting to get this route done

bump

There is a ladder across a large crevasse on the Tacul face and fixed rope up to the Col du Mont Maudit - there is already a thread about that.

But, if there is heavy snow to come you will need an update when you get to Cham. Plus ca change!

Was in excellent condition last week - but things change quickly obviously. Your best bet is to speak to people when you get to Cham and ask at the OHM to try and build a picture. The people camping under the Midi are many of them going for this route so worth asking around.

For what it's worth, as noted there is a ladder over the first bergschrund on the Tacul - the seracs generally seemed stable last week and there was an excellent track the whole way, although we did hear what we think was a small collapse on Maudit way off route as we went by about 3.30am. This underlines the need to get up to date info on this one. The crux was good condition neve, with a number of fixed ropes in place in OK condition. Due to traffic and not trusting the ropes fully, we just pitched it as a an ice/snow climb and blasted up with a 60m rope and two screws. Hope that is helpful.

Thanks for the information.

Will obviously keep and eye on it and check at the guides hut in cham.

Nice to know that its been in good nic though.