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FRI NIGHT VID: Adam Ondra in the Rockies

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 UKC News 20 Jul 2018
Adam Ondra in the Rockies, 3 kbOur Friday Night Video this week documents Adam Ondra's recent trip to the Canadian Rockies. The film gives a superb insight into what it takes to climb at the highest level, from the most mundane aspects such as skin management to the tactics Adam employs whilst onsighting. 8b warm ups and hard onsights are par for the course for Adam, although he admits that occasionally 'you can easily fall on 8c...'

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 andyman666999 20 Jul 2018
In reply to UKC News:

Really enjoyed that. Best video I have seen of him, best footage, good soundtrack and better dialogue about his process of onsighting. Really good. 

 manwithacam 20 Jul 2018
In reply to UKC News:

Nice video, 2 good FNVids in a row! Cheers

 Keendan 20 Jul 2018
In reply to UKC News:

Agree with others. What a great vid.

Amazing to see the mistakes and re-adjustments from the onsight climb, done with so much speed and conviction.

 Otis 21 Jul 2018
In reply to UKC News:

A superb film-about the journey, the location, the people as well as the climbing. Makes a nice change. Looking forward to the others now. 

 Knut R. 23 Jul 2018
In reply to UKC News:

I, for one, cannot wait for the footage of the eventual send.

I was lucky enough to have watched him on "Disbelief" and it was some of the most alien movement I've seen on a rock climb. The intricacy of the footwork was impressive, the body tension unreal, and the screaming was very screamy.

 stp 24 Jul 2018
In reply to Knut R.:

Strangely Disbelief did not make the news for some reason. Too bad he didn't do Fight Club but sounds like he had very limited time:

One of the biggest goals I had for this trip Alexander Megos testpiece Fight Club 5.15b (9b). I had been training hard for this trip and this route. Then I came here and I found the route wet. I was waiting for the route to be perfectly dry, because I wanted to test myself in getting it done in as few days as possible. In the meantime, I was climbing on different routes, but most of them were bouldery and not really a style of Fight club at all. It was completely dry one week before the departure back to Europe. I tried it for 2 days, but could not do it. In the meantime, I still had another project I wanted to finish off. It was a huge dilemma, but in the end, I gave a priority to Acephale crag, and Disbelief 9b was born. Going back to Fight Club at Raven's Crag today as day 3 on the line, I was full of hope. But I went away empty-handed. But it is line that is amazing and worth returning for, one day. On the top of that, a possible extension could make it a sure 9b+!

 Knut R. 25 Jul 2018
In reply to stp:

Yeah, no Fight Club....So his consolation prize was a fast ascent of a new 9a+. He's a creature.

 stp 26 Jul 2018
In reply to Knut R.:

Yeah so to recap:

  1. A new hard 9b - Disbelief
  2. A new 9a+ - Sacrifice
  3. Near onsight second ascent of a 9a - Honour and Glory
  4. Onsight of an 8c+ and an 8c - First Flight and Existence Mundane
  5. Onsight of an 8b+ slab that Alex Megos said would be like onsighting a 9a. - Ojas

 

Each of these is pretty amazing in it's own right but to do all of these in the space of just a few weeks is phenomenal.

 Knut R. 27 Jul 2018
In reply to stp:

Agreed!

There were also a pile of 8a+ onsights tossed around like candy.

I watched, and then spoke to him about, the 8b+ slab onsight. He disagreed with the assessment of how difficult it would be to onsight. He felt it was "pretty straight forward for a slab".

I've tried that rig. Can't even imagine the moves.

He really is the 'next level'. 

 nacnud 19 Aug 2018
In reply to UKC News:

Where'd the vid go? Any other links?


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