UKC

We recently reported that access restrictions were to be put in place on Mont Blanc until 1st August in an attempt to resolve overcrowding both at the Goûter refuge itself and on the mountain; reducing tensions between hut managers and climbers and minimising the risk of accidents en route. We sent some questions to Jean-Marc Peillex, mayor of Saint-Gervais-les-Bains - the administrating commune in which Mont Blanc is largely situated, shared with Courmayeur - to find out more about the state of affairs on Western Europe's highest - and highly popular - mountain.

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In reply to UKC/UKH News:

Thanks, I've just discovered that the mayors of Chamonix & St Gervais are from different political parties, I wonder if that plays a role in the disputes ?

In reply to UKC/UKH News:

"Do you think a permit system for climbing Mont Blanc would work (and if so, do you think it goes against the ethics of European mountaineering)?"

"In all the important sites of the world there are systems of quotas and controls (North American national parks, Nepal, Kilimanjaro, Everest ... gorges of the Ardèche, creeks of Cassis). There are also planes, museums...why should an overcrowded route escape this, and who is having trouble controlling it?"

I think this kind of thing is inevitable. While it does 'go against the ethics of European mountaineering', you could say much the same about the cable cars that make the area so accessible. We live in an overcrowded world, and increasing numbers of people will want to spend their well earned leisure time on experiences like climbing Mont Blanc - whatever the rest of us might think of that experience. We can't just stick our heads in the sand and pretend that it's the 19th century. The golden age of mountaineering is over.

In reply to UKC/UKH News:

Good article. well poised questions and very well answered. The mayor seems to have a very realistic view of the pro's and con's of Mont Blanc, without imposing bans on those who can climb and descend in a day.

In reply to UKC/UKH News:

Can't help but have sympathy for him, sounds like he's trying hard to do all the right things and is understandably frustrated by all of the obstacles in his way.

In reply to UKC/UKH News:

Thanks. The answers seem to be a bit confused between climbers (of whatever description) climbing Mont Blanc and tourists (of whatever description, including day trippers). Overcrowding on the Gouter Route may be an issue but the number of people climbing Mont Blanc by any route is tiny compared to the number of tourists. A permit system would hardly impact on pollution in the valley caused by car/van traffic, lorries using the tunnel and wood burning stoves in winter. 

It seems the complain against Cham is it draws in the crowds and that causes issues such as pollution lower down the valley. Yet I wonder to what extent the economy of St Gervais itself is also dependent on the Mont Blanc factor. 

In reply to Misha:

As far as pollution goes, the main source is HGVs passing through the Mont Blanc tunnel. This has been the case ever since it opened.

In reply to Misha:

i think Stg is largely a stopping off point for climbers rather than somewhere they stay. There’s always a few in the bar by the Church and the main kit shop hires out equipment, but you never see climbers walking around as you do in Chamonix. Some contribution but not a massive one. 

 

In reply to Tim Davies:

St Gervais is too posh for climbers...

In reply to Misha:think it’s more a case of St Ger-where? Or “what.. ? No telepherique?”

hope it stays that way????

 

In reply to Tim Davies:

I remember first arriving in Chamonix @1991 - having been introduced to the UK hills in the 80's when you could still only get Gortex in red, blue or green and from Blacks or Trollsters by phoning up Field and Trek after perusing their catalogue - and feeling like a kid in a sweet shop in awe of the whole Chamonix vibe and fashion! These days in my late 40s I much prefer the general peace and tranquility of St Gervais Les Bains

In reply to John2:

Actually I believe that this is not the case in winter, when somewhere between 70 and 80% of pollution is caused by wood burning stoves. The Chamonix Mayor's office is offering grants for the replacement of older, inefficient wood burning stoves with more modern ones which have much lower particulate outputs.