UKC

Beginner trad near Exeter

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 hbeevers 07 Aug 2018

Hi,

I'm heading down to Exeter end of this week and am looking to take my partner and father in law out. Both climb indoors but haven't been outside before. 

I'm thinking I will head over to  Haytor with the idea of setting up a top-rope for them to tackle Bulging Wall (VD) and Zig Zag (VD).

How's that sound? Also, any other good beginner stuff around there that might be more suitable?

Cheers,

Henry

 

 TMM 07 Aug 2018
In reply to hbeevers:

I'm not sure I would use this location for this purpose at this time of year.

Haytor will be crawling with tourists so you will have an audience. Additionally you have chosen the most accessible and popular routes on the tor, as a result you may find others wanting to lead, solo or top rope them as well. Additionally there are various outdoor groups who lash the West Face with ropes and monopolise it for large chunks of the day.

At the very least I would suggest considering a plan B or C.

If I had the same objectives as yourself I would consider driving for another 5 minutes to the Hound Tor car park. I would put my top ropes on some of the friendly little climbs on Greator. You will have the rocks to yourself and can climb in the sun on the South and enjoy the view accross the Becka Brook valley or some nice shady slabs on the North side. You also have the Plan C option of some climbing and bouldering at Hound Tor.

I think your party would get more out of this location and you will have less bother with third parties.

Enjoy your day out.

 Mark Haward 07 Aug 2018
In reply to hbeevers:

Hound Tor is a great spot. Also some nice routes at Dewerstone

 TMM 07 Aug 2018
In reply to Mark Haward:

Dewerstone is great but is better suited to parties leading and seconding rather than attempting to set up a top rope. Given the experience of the group I'm not sure that moving as a three in a multi-pitch environment would be too clever.

OP hbeevers 07 Aug 2018
In reply to TMM:

Thanks, that's all good to know 

UKC warns off greator due to ticks which is alarming, but hound tor looks great.

OP hbeevers 07 Aug 2018
In reply to TMM:

Dewerstone does look brilliant for beginner multi pitch but we're not quite there yet!

 TMM 07 Aug 2018
In reply to hbeevers:

There are ticks all over the moor sadly. Greator is very possible to access without wading in the deep bracken. 

If you head over to Hound Tor then take a look at Greator yourselves and make your own judgement. There is a nice little scrambly traverse to keep you party busy, lots of micro routes and bouldering options.

Beware the Hound of the basketmeals...

OP hbeevers 07 Aug 2018
In reply to TMM:

Brilliant, thanks all.

 David Coley 07 Aug 2018
In reply to hbeevers:

As you are at the Exeter not Plymouth side of things, just pop along to Chudleigh. Loads of top roping and you could lead them up WOGS. Yes, they will complain about the polish, but just tell them "a weighted foot never slips"

 Chris Ebbutt 07 Aug 2018
In reply to hbeevers:

Chudleigh Rocks - North Face

personally in the current heat I would head for the north side, ( phone for permission), easy to set up top ropes, even some easy sport routes to play on, all in the shade and probably all to yourself.

Have fun 

Chris

 Cusco 07 Aug 2018
In reply to David Coley:

Or "A slipping foot never weights/waits"!


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