In reply to phja:
The EBC route is utterly spectacular once you get past Namche.
It's just that the route itself is very heavily trafficked... many people probably don't mind this, but I felt that it detracted from the experience somewhat to be constantly passing large groups of people all with the same guided tour group.
The tail end of the route, EBC itself, is a bit of a letdown. You don't get anywhere near the base camp itself, of course- you see what looks to be a giant field of rubble with some specs of colour (tents) in the distance. And you can barely even see the tip of Everest from where you get to. I also found the teahouses at the EBC end to be much rougher and more expensive than elsewhere along the route- the teahouses are owned by a limited number of families, and they know they have a monopoly there.
The standard way of turning EBC into something besides a mild disappointment is that you get woken up in at 4 the morning to climb Kalar Patthar along with everyone else who's been taken up in the the area. They sell it as 'you get to see the sun rise over the Everest', but imo that's a load of bollocks. When I went, we just popped up without the guide on the same afternoon I arrived, so I could sleep in the next morning and avoid the crowds. And at the top, we thought "this is nice I guess, but why would you wake up at 4am to do this?"
I did a couple of side routes that were much less heavily trafficked, on the way to the beginner-friendly Lobuche East and Island Peaks. The side routes were very nice- off memory, it was the last valley before Island Peak past Chukkung that I personally found the most impressive because the valley was huge. What I wanted to do, but didn't have the time to arrange because I did the trip massively last minute, was a circuit by going up Gyoko (a parallel valley system to the west) then going across the Cho La pass into the Everest region. If you Google "three passes Nepal" you should find a route map. This is much more remote route, and the passes are quite high altitude. Takes more time, but a much different experience- I have a good friend to went up that way the following year.
Oh, the usual EBC trek throws in an acclimatisation day at Namche, which has you kind of sitting around for a while checking out the shops or walking up to Khumjong (boring). If you've got the energy for it, I would recommend walking up to a tiny village called Mong, which is halfway to Tengboche, but you take a high path left off the main track and climb a fair bit. The village has great views, and was a much more relaxing place to hang out than Namche.
Post edited at 09:14